CV boot; axle/ clutch problem & replacement questions

dealerxing · Post by **dealerxing** » Sun Sep 15, 2002 9:58 am

I have had very bad luck lately. First two flat tires; then a torn
CV boot and perhaps a ignition problem on my other car. Well, one of
my front CV boots got busted and sent grease all over the place. I
discovered this early and haven't driven the car too much. There is
no clicking yet on the CV joint. Should I replace the entire axle
or just reclamp the boot? Which method is safer and how much should
I expect to pay?

Also, my clutch with 150K mile is about to go. It is not slipping
too badly but there is vibration at start up and low speed shift;
when I'm at 1800rpm at 1st, 2nd gear and give it a little gas, car
would jerk(perhaps worn pressure plate/warp flywheel) making very
difficult to drive in traffic. If I have to pull one of the axles
out, does it make more sense to replace the clutch also? Besides the
clutch kits, should I replace the rear crank seal at the same time?
How much more work is required? Last, I have never replaced a clutch
before and how much should I expect to pay? I don't need fancy
clutch BTW, I just want a smooth ride with easy pedal effort.

devin kundla · Post by **devin kundla** » Sun Sep 15, 2002 10:28 am

i went to napa and the remanufactured axle was only about $10 more (after you turn in the old one). I'm not sure how long mine was ripped though, so i just bought the axle. might save some additional time and money down the road.

devin

dealerxing · Post by **dealerxing** » Sun Sep 15, 2002 11:28 pm

So how much was the final price?

devin kundla · Post by **devin kundla** » Mon Sep 16, 2002 8:08 am

$65.00

dealerxing · Post by **dealerxing** » Mon Sep 16, 2002 2:19 pm

Just checked, R&S Strauss has the axle for $55.99 with $5 coupon.
Lifetime warranty too.

ciper_ · Post by **ciper_** » Mon Sep 16, 2002 2:39 pm

You shouldnt purchase axels from the local parts shops. Many times they are not even rebuilt, the parts are inspected and if they look okay a fresh coat of paint with a new boot is all you are getting.

The only reliable shop that I trust and is available to everyone is http://www.cvaxles.com/ . 50 dollars for any FWD axel. They always replace the wear items. So far Ive ordered 2 from them, both times I got a subaru original part back with a substantially thicker CV boot than what was installed originally.

BTW, you should always replace the seal around the stub on when taking the axel out.

dealerxing · Post by **dealerxing** » Mon Sep 16, 2002 3:09 pm

Is the a CORE charge? How much do they charge for shipping?

Will changing the axle require an alignment afterwards?

ciper_ · Post by **ciper_** » Mon Sep 16, 2002 3:29 pm

They dont charge core up front!! All you have to do is return the old part
within thirty days. As for shipping Im not sure, depends on your location
but they dont overcharge if thats why you ask.

When replacing the axel you have to remove the bolts that attach the wheel
bearing housing to the strut (you do not have to remove the tie rods or ball
joint as some would tell you). You can try to mark the upper camber
adjustment bolt to return to the original aligment but Id get one done
anyways.

FormView · Post by **FormView** » Tue Sep 17, 2002 1:24 am

Make sure you tell them you have fwd or awd - the axles are
different. You can tell by the number of stripes on the axles.

I recently tried to order some from them (cvaxles.com) but they
didn't have any 90 fwd axles when I called. They recommended another
place (Axlehouse) so I purchased from them.

They were rebuilt Subaru axles (not aftermarket axles). The boot
looked thicker than the original. I didn't look in the boot to see
how the joint looked. The new axles cured my vibration and clicking
sound problem.

You may be in for a shock when you ship your old axles back for the
core charge. My UPS ground shipment (AZ to FL) was $31 total (for
both axles).

Robert Illan · Post by **Robert Illan** » Thu Sep 19, 2002 12:57 am

You wrote a few days ago and no one answered: If I have to pull one
of the axles out, does it make more sense to replace the clutch also?

I have do-it-yourself replaced one axle in my 93 Legacy 130kmi and
this is somewhat difficult, 1) to separate the lower arm to the ball
joint and 2) pressing the axle out of the knuckle. I am replacing a
torn CV joint boot soon. I would think that replacing the clutch is
more difficult, I guess the transmission has to be pushed back a few
inches, I guess this means that both axles must come off first for
this to happen. Unless the car is not drivable I'm not replacing the
clutch and maybe neither should you. However, it would be nice to
have a description of how difficult a clutch replacement is from our
readers.

Robert Illan

dealerxing · Post by **dealerxing** » Thu Sep 19, 2002 8:57 am

Replaced axle with Strauss. Cost $59 axle plus $72 labor. Technician
spent 50 mins, there was a lot of hammering and separating the lower
control arm to install/remove knuckle looked difficult. Got lifetime
warranty on axle and 3 months warranty on labor.

ciper_ · Post by **ciper_** » Thu Sep 19, 2002 2:27 pm

Was this a front axel? If so there is no need to remove anything but the
strut to wheel bearing housing bolts.....

dealerxing · Post by **dealerxing** » Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:07 pm

he removed the lower ball joint instead.

ciper_ · Post by **ciper_** » Thu Sep 19, 2002 7:57 pm

You dont need to remove the ball joint either. You only need to remove the
two strut to wheel bearing housing bolts. I used subaru original shaft and
ends with aftermarket rebuild parts and was able to install two so far this
way.

I did have to purchase a 5 foot length of pipe to slide over my breaker bar.
Even with this I JUMPED on the bar and one of the nuts didnt move!

j k · Post by **j k** » Fri Sep 20, 2002 2:17 am

Remember to mark the position of the two bolts in relation to the strut
(with a metal punch or grease stick) if you do your axle this way. If you
don't you have a good chance of comming out with a misaligned wheel (toe in
or toe out). I have done a lot of Legacy axles, that and brakes, and the
easiest way that I have to get the axle spindle out of the bearing housing
is to remove the lower ball joint, but this is where it gets good. To make
it easy on yourself, don't try to remove the ball joint castle nut and the
stugle with braking the lower control arm away from the ball joint, instead
you want to break loose the ball joint still connected to the lower control
arm. The way you do this is to loosen the 12mm bolt on the bottom part of
the bearing housing, this bolt acts as a tightener, providing a clamping
force on the upper part of the ball joint that is up in the housing. Now
you should be able to break the complete ball joint/lower cr away from the
bearing housing which should then be able to pivot up and slide the axle
out. Sometimes you have to wedge/pound a screwdrive or something else to
spread the gap open to provide a little cleareance for the ball joint to
slip out. Hope this is useful, john k

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