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#Oil pump leak, mileage issue

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 Post subject: Oil pump leak, mileage issue
PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2002 11:49 am 
So I mentioned that I was going to have a bunch of work done to fix
an oil leak, which I did, and I've noticed a very significant change
in one respect. Whereas, before the repair I would get 300 miles to a
tank, I am now getting a tiny bit over 200 per tank. I remember that
there was a jump up at one point, but who was I to complain about
that? :) So, what do a oil pump leak, etc. have to do with increase
mileage? I wasn't running too lean or anything that would have
damaged internals, was I? It would have been for a few months to 6
months max.

Jim


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2002 12:29 pm 
Only thing I can think of was that the load the oil pump was taking away from the motor caused better mileage......but it would also change the power the car feels like it has. Is it any peppier, slower?

They may have unplugged the battery, and reset your ecu......may want to follow the procedure on my site and reset it....let it relearn the sensors and such. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru

Josh


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2002 12:49 pm 
Well, I thought about that, and there is a difference in the power
delivery = smoother now, but it does not feel peppier, just
different. It was like the turbo would wait a split second longer,
then spool up all at once when it was "broken", and now all the
pressures are "right" and it comes on a lot smoother. Dunno. The ECU,
maybe, I guess I'll give it a while. Got your email. I am off to a
test, and will email/call/whatever sometime soon.

Jim


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2002 2:13 pm 
I have 2 questions actually, does anyone know where the Knock sensor
is Located and is it hard to replace?
I was also wondering if there is any preventative maintnence I can do
on the rear differential to keep it from binding in the future.
Anyone know where I can get an oxygen sensor for under a 100$$?
Matt


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2002 3:23 pm 
Knock sensor is pretty much right below where the throttle body or cables hook up to the throttle body. It's a little black quarter sized round thing that is about 1/2" high, and has a bolt through the middle of it. It's easy to replace.

The rear diff is not what causes the normal torque bind.....assuming that is what you are referring to. It's the center differential. What type of tranny you have, auto or manual?


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2002 10:53 pm 
I have an automatic


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2002 11:33 pm 
There is an additive you can get from the subie dealer that is supposed to help alleviate torque bind in the auto trannies.......assuming it is not too bad.

May want to check that stuff out.

Josh


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2003 11:37 pm 
can anyone tell me if my radiator cooling fan is supposed to stay
on even if I shut off the engine and remove the key from the
ignition? since I got this car a few months ago the fan has only
stayed running for about 4 or 5 seconds after I pull the key out of
the ignition

seems like if it goes for 5 seconds it ought to be able to go
longer if needed, seeing the engine generally gets hotter
following shutdown. It never has.

Just woundering,
Dean
92 BF n/a 2.2, auto, a/c, w/a ridicules cupholder


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2003 11:47 pm 
sounds like the thermostat is hooked up backwords


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2003 8:07 am 
Dean,

This is normal operation. Mine has done the exact same thing since I got it back in 95.

I'm sure there's probably a way to hook up a temp switch to the radiator or something and put that inline with the fan relays to keep the fans on. But not sure how long that would be......or how much it would drain the battery.

I suppose another alternative would be to use a turbo timer type of device, except for the fans.

Josh


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2003 9:37 pm 
Cool, thanks. now that i know it's working okay, i may rig a switch for manual override. sometimes it's nice to be able to start the fan early before a big climb or sitting in a summer traffic jam.

Dean


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2003 10:27 pm 
You shouldn't really need to override it. The cooling systems in the legacy are extremely robust! I've never had any issues with any sort of overheating, even running really hard with a/c on and accessories blaring.


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2003 12:07 am 
Heya Josh,
ya know, i sorta wonder about the temp gauge in this car. it never ever moves from it's normal operating mid-position when the engine is running. hope it's as robust as you say.

on another note... i'm installing new rear brake pads tomorrow. anything i should know? are they as easy to do as the fronts were?

Dean


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2003 12:27 am 
There are two separate temp sensors. One for the ECU and one for the gauge. The gauge is definitely a pretty poopy sensor. It don't move worth squat. However it was designed to do that.

The ECU sensor is very precise. I've watched the temps that the ECU sees with the select monitor and fans kick on once it reaches certain point, temps fall, cylce repeats.

I'd have to watch a little more to see the exact temp the fans kick on.

Yeah....rear brakes are just as easy as front.

Josh


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 Post subject: Question
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2003 1:07 am 
Maybe i'll fit a real temp gauge. i'm installing a remote starter soon so when i'm under the dash i might as well fit some gauges i already have.


i'll attack the rear pads with confidence now. a big thanks!

Dean


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