Alarm/Remote Starter wiring info UPDATE #2

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Wed Nov 10, 2004 11:58 pm

That's a very generous offer! Thank you. I'll take you up on it. You know better than anyone else I know what kind of solenoid would probably be appropriate for my application. Let me know how much to send you and how to send it to you.

Ah, yes, push button... I shoulda figured. I thought maybe it was "power brake" or something like that and I didn't see how clever the setup was...

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Thu Nov 11, 2004 3:18 pm

Well I looked in the boxes that I could get to and didn't find them. I know I have at leaste 2 of these things maybe even three but I needed to move my dads car out of the way to get to the far wall of the garage. It was too late and cold last night by the time I got home. I'll try again today when I get home. Once I have it you could pm me with some mailing info and I'll get it out to you. We'll figure out money transfer later, dont sweat it..

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:52 pm

Thanks, Mike, I really appreciate that! I'll PM you my address.

minoru · Post by **minoru** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 8:02 am

Got the Prostart remote starter+keyless entry. Got the actuator for drivers door. Got a bunch of relays....do i need any diodes???

The acutator has 2 wires obviously. The keyless entry has negative unlock and lock outputs. Just to make sure...I need to put to relays connected somhow like in first pic on this link http://ccs.exl.info/locks.html ???

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 3:24 pm

You shouldn't need any diodes.

You will want to wire the actuator like the bottom diagram on that page (labeled "Adding aftermarket door lock actuators").

minoru · Post by **minoru** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 3:56 pm

Actually yes...I wasn't paying much attention to the pic...but you're right...+12 at 87 and ground at 87A. Thx for pointing it out.

And diodes...I meant for the rest of the assambley...ignition,tach,starter and other wires like that.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 6:37 pm

I wouldn't expect you to need any external diodes unless you're doing something unconventional with the installation. Mike can confirm or refute that.

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 7:18 pm

no diodes for a typical subaru install..... sorry for any delay, I've been in detroit all week for work and not really keeping up on here

minoru · Post by **minoru** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 4:05 am

Well...everything is pretty straight forward...

Except the parking lights wires...+ and -

Mike? Vrg3??? HELP.

I know in the chart that you put there is first red than u say is green. Unfortunately I don't have a service manual or the wiring diagram of the car. And the Heynes manual sucks...or I suck:))

Pls help.

Thanks guys.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 5:51 am

Like I said on the second page of this thread:

vrg3 wrote:The wire I chose to use for the parking lights was on the lighting switch itself. It's an 11-pin connector going up to the switch in the steering column. The wire I used was red on the receptacle (switch side) and black/red on the plug (harness side).

It's a positive trigger wire.

minoru · Post by **minoru** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 2:15 pm

The positive....and the negative? My remote starter whants that too.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 4:15 pm

Umm, I don't know. That seems odd that it would want both. Are you sure it's not just giving you the option of choosing which one you want to use?

Maybe just don't connect the "Parking lights (-)" wire of the remote starter to anything, and see if that works?

minoru · Post by **minoru** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 6:04 pm

Yeah...it worked without the (-) I thought it myght be optional. So i tried without it. Works fine.

Thanks a lot Vrg3.

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 6:18 pm

yeah, some systems give you both as some cars like to use negative triggers at the switch and others like to use posotive. It doesn't really matter which you use and quite honestly it probably wouldn't matter if you used both. although it wouldn't make any sense to do so. If I had the option I would probably use the negative one because that one would be a low current "trigger" to turn on the exsisting vehicles parking light circuit (before the relay). Whereas, the possotive one is introducing 12 volts from the starter unit into the vehicle's parking light circuit (after the realy). Like I said it doesn't matter but if possible its better to use current vehicle wirering rather than to complicate it with your own.,,,if that makes sense

syphon · Post by **syphon** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 9:58 am

A quick question for clarification....

the ECU is on the drivers side to the left of the steering column?

Reason I ask, there's a flat metal box with a single nut sticking out of it that seems PERFECT for a ground, but I read about someone running a ground off a computer and I want to make sure this isnt it.

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 3:22 pm

Yup...it's the far left. The TCU is right next to the steering column.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... cuhide.jpg

syphon · Post by **syphon** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 9:00 pm

Hmm, I guess I need to find a better place to ground everything then.

Here's a completely different question (concerning relays).

We hooked up the two relays according to the diagram included with the alarm (this is for the keyless entry). We're pretty sure we got the wires all right, but as soon as we connected the +12 wire to the battery (we ran a wire straight from the battery) It started crackling and sparking really bad.

Today I'm going to throw a fuse on that line so i have a safer way of testing to see if our relay wiring is ok, but does anyone know why this is happening?

Do I have to find seperate grounds for each relay? Right now the grounds are joined together. Also, the relay types are the same, but they're quite obviously different brands. That wouldn't make a difference would it?

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 9:04 pm

!!!

Never hook a wire straight up to your battery without a fuse in it! Even if it's "just to test" or "only for a second." You were lucky this time, but you can start fires and damage practically inaccessible wires this way.

Joining the grounds together is fine.

It sounds like you somehow connected a ground to the +12v feed, either directly or through the contacts of a relay. How exactly did you hook the two relays up? If you did follow the diagram correctly, maybe the diagram is screwed up.

syphon · Post by **syphon** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 9:39 pm

http://www.crimestopper.com/techweb/Ins ... IIRevB.pdf

Page 6 has the diagram I used. We used the "adding aftermarket locks" diagram.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 9:44 pm

Hmm. So the diagram in the manual is just like the "adding aftermarket locks"diagram except that instead of connecting the 85 terminals to +12v you connect them to the alarm.

Is there any chance you mixed up the 87 and 30 terminals?

Did you check the bottoms of the relays to make sure you correctly identified the terminals? On occasion you'll find a relay that doesn't conform to the standard Bosch-type relay socket.

Was the alarm connected when you did your test that fried the wire? How about the actuators? Is it possible there's a short in the alarm, actuators, or their wiring?

syphon · Post by **syphon** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 9:49 pm

I edited my post before you replied... it looks. That link goes straight to the exact diagram we used.

We double and triple checked to make sure all the wires were connected to the correct terminals.

At this point, the alarm was not plugged in at all. All we did was take those relays and put them in circuit with the car (connected the ground wires to a ground and made the +12 wire live). We troubleshooted down to find out that something in the relay alone was causing the problem.

I'm suspecting bad relays, but they're both brand new. The reason I ask if the grounds have to be seperate, is because on that diagram, the grounds arent joined together (while the +12 and Red wires are joined together).

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 10:01 pm

Hmm, did you have the actuators connected?

Assuming there isn't a short in the actuators or their wiring, and assuming your wiring is correct, then, yes, it would have to be one or both of the relays' fault. But I'm skeptical; I dont think I've never seen a faulty relay fail in such a way that you'd get a short circuit with this kind of arrangement.

It's fine to join the grounds together, the diagram notwithstanding. That isn't the problem.

syphon · Post by **syphon** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 11:06 pm

It happened both with and without the actuators connected.

I mean, the actuator is only 2 wires, they connect to the 30 terminal on each relay, so it'd be pretty hard to mess THAT up.

I'm about to go grab some new relays and try that out.

syphon · Post by **syphon** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 1:11 am

grr I'm so incredibly frustrated.

I have a (fused) 20ga wire running straight off the battery. It splits and connects to both the 87 Terminals on my 2 brand new relays.

I have a ground wire coming off a screw underneath the dash (the ground has been proven, I use it for my boost gauge light). That ground wire is split and run to the 87A terminals on these relays.

ALL that is connected is a +12 and ground, yet the fuse still blows immediately when I pop it in.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Thu Dec 30, 2004 1:44 am

You're absolutely 100% positive you're using the right terminals on the relays? On a lot of relays the terminal numbers are stamped right into the plastic base next to the conductor.

Do you have a continuity tester? Do you measure continuity between the 87 and 87a terminals of the relays?

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Alarm/Remote Starter wiring info UPDATE #2