TD04L on a '94 turbo legacy wagon?
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TD04L on a '94 turbo legacy wagon?
hey guys
i found a turbo for my wagon. it is from a usdm wrx. how hard would it be to make it fit on my 1994 touring wagon. what extra pieces would i need? i am very new at turbo cars, is it something i could handle? my car is very stock, nothing aftermarket. anything that i should do along with the turbo? i don't need anything wild, this is my family car.
edit: will i need any boost control, airfuel control or anything else to do the install and make it run? also changed the plug and it looks like the 2 on the drivers side are running lean and the passenger ones are fine. why? any ideas normal or not?
i found a turbo for my wagon. it is from a usdm wrx. how hard would it be to make it fit on my 1994 touring wagon. what extra pieces would i need? i am very new at turbo cars, is it something i could handle? my car is very stock, nothing aftermarket. anything that i should do along with the turbo? i don't need anything wild, this is my family car.
edit: will i need any boost control, airfuel control or anything else to do the install and make it run? also changed the plug and it looks like the 2 on the drivers side are running lean and the passenger ones are fine. why? any ideas normal or not?
Last edited by stevemasteller on Thu Sep 30, 2004 6:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
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There are threads on this, a search would bring back the info you need.
That said, the USDM TD04 doesn't have a 90 degree inlet elbow. This is bad, because our cars need it (we do not have the intake manifold clearance to run the intake piping under the manifold).
THAT said, if you aren't looking for very big gains, then just intercool your stock turbo (with a Saab 900 unit) and turn the boost up to like 10 or 11 psi (if you have the stock exhaust).
That said, the USDM TD04 doesn't have a 90 degree inlet elbow. This is bad, because our cars need it (we do not have the intake manifold clearance to run the intake piping under the manifold).
THAT said, if you aren't looking for very big gains, then just intercool your stock turbo (with a Saab 900 unit) and turn the boost up to like 10 or 11 psi (if you have the stock exhaust).
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what phill said with the exception of the 90 degree elbow doesnt matter much. get a samco style 90 and use a steel piece to fit the intake. the aussis have more experience there.
-jason
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fit
i work at a place with a full machine shop and welder shop.
should i mill the inlet at a 45 deg. angle and weld a length of alum. pipe onto it that is also cut at a 45 deg angle or use the rubber elbow and peice of pipe idea. is there anything else i need or need to do?
should i mill the inlet at a 45 deg. angle and weld a length of alum. pipe onto it that is also cut at a 45 deg angle or use the rubber elbow and peice of pipe idea. is there anything else i need or need to do?
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I think the 45-degree idea is the way to go. An alternative would be to shave the inlet down and weld an elbow right onto it.
If you want to use the stock pipe from the compressor outlet to the throttle body, you'll need to reclock the turbo. It's pretty straightforward; you just unbolt the wastegate actuator, loosen the clocking clamp, and turn it. Afterwards the wastegate actuator can be remounted using just one of the bolts -- look for a thread where I posted pictures mreese sent me for details.
If you want to use the stock pipe from the compressor outlet to the throttle body, you'll need to reclock the turbo. It's pretty straightforward; you just unbolt the wastegate actuator, loosen the clocking clamp, and turn it. Afterwards the wastegate actuator can be remounted using just one of the bolts -- look for a thread where I posted pictures mreese sent me for details.
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thanks
iwould use my stock turbo but it is shot and can't find a stock replacement and found a tdo4l for $125 with 20K on it and it is just a few miles from my house. i didn't get it yet, i would still like a stock one instead and is not on the other coast.
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I've got a stock one if you want it. It's got 100k on it, but it worked perfectly on my car.
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price
price and endplay?
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A TD04 is a waste of your time and money! It is barely bigger than your stock turbo and when it is all said and done can give you 10-15hp more than the stock turbo. And that assumes you have a full turbo-back, an intercooler, an AFC and a fuel cut defender. And even then you would be at the ragged edge of the stock injectors duty cycle.
You would be better served spending your money to get your stock turbo blueprinted, rebuilt and ceramic coated by Deadbolt, once you have done all of the above listed mods. The stock turbo can run 15-16 psi before it gets out of it's efficiency range. At that psi, you would be making +/-250hp at the crank...
edit: didn't read the part about the shot turbo first time through. In that case, send it to Deadbolt to be rebuilt now and do the other stuff later to back it up...
You would be better served spending your money to get your stock turbo blueprinted, rebuilt and ceramic coated by Deadbolt, once you have done all of the above listed mods. The stock turbo can run 15-16 psi before it gets out of it's efficiency range. At that psi, you would be making +/-250hp at the crank...
edit: didn't read the part about the shot turbo first time through. In that case, send it to Deadbolt to be rebuilt now and do the other stuff later to back it up...
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1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
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1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
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The stock turbo loses umph up top. At about 4,000 RPM, the most you can really push is 10psi.
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[quote="scottzg"]...I'm not a fan of the vagina...[/quote][quote="evolutionmovement"]This will all go much easier if people stop doubting me.[/quote]
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I would have to agree that the TDO4 will push more air above than the VF-10/11. I still want to see a compressor map for a TDO4 before i jump on one of the bandwagons (ie. whether its a good upgrade or not). I for one am going to seriously look into it though. I have been thinking that the seals are going on my stock turbo, and paying ~$125 for a replacment that it almost brand new, and possibly utilizes newer technology compared to the original turbo on the car is a very good decision, no matter what the power gains are.
Ben
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92 Celica Turbo FWD (swap) @ 12 psi HOLY CRAP!!! I miss AWD
91 Celica All-Trac @ 0 psi (turbo being installed)
92 Celica Turbo FWD (swap) @ 12 psi HOLY CRAP!!! I miss AWD
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Ben - The TD04 is about as low tech as the stocker It's just a bit bigger.
You should just jump on the Phil and Matt bandwagon and get a 16G
You should just jump on the Phil and Matt bandwagon and get a 16G
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[quote="scottzg"]...I'm not a fan of the vagina...[/quote][quote="evolutionmovement"]This will all go much easier if people stop doubting me.[/quote]
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[quote="scottzg"]...I'm not a fan of the vagina...[/quote][quote="evolutionmovement"]This will all go much easier if people stop doubting me.[/quote]
Getting deadbolt to spruce up the WRX turbo would be the most cost effective route with no downtime for his car.
Get it port/polished/clipped/shined/buffed and whatever they can do to the turbos. This will be an appreciable upgrade for less than $300.
Get it port/polished/clipped/shined/buffed and whatever they can do to the turbos. This will be an appreciable upgrade for less than $300.
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The TD04 falls off pretty hard around 5500 on a WRX. But keep in mind that is on a 2.0l engine. Yes, it will make more power than a Vf-10/11 does, but on our 2.2's it is marginal and does not warrant the expense/trouble of doing the whole conversion. That is my real point...NemesisEJ22t wrote:I would have to agree that the TDO4 will push more air above than the VF-10/11. I still want to see a compressor map for a TDO4 before i jump on one of the bandwagons (ie. whether its a good upgrade or not). I for one am going to seriously look into it though. I have been thinking that the seals are going on my stock turbo, and paying ~$125 for a replacment that it almost brand new, and possibly utilizes newer technology compared to the original turbo on the car is a very good decision, no matter what the power gains are.
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1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
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Suby Hai!
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The only positive, is that it's not a DIFFICULT install.
10 minutes at a shop and 20 bucks, and you can have a 90 degree elbow installed. And if you've got a Saab IC, you are 1, 12 dollar radiator hose away from attaching it to your current setup.
10 minutes at a shop and 20 bucks, and you can have a 90 degree elbow installed. And if you've got a Saab IC, you are 1, 12 dollar radiator hose away from attaching it to your current setup.
2009 Outback 2.5XT. 5MT. Satin White Pearl.
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[quote="scottzg"]...I'm not a fan of the vagina...[/quote][quote="evolutionmovement"]This will all go much easier if people stop doubting me.[/quote]
2009 Impreza 2.5i Premium. Blue.
[quote="scottzg"]...I'm not a fan of the vagina...[/quote][quote="evolutionmovement"]This will all go much easier if people stop doubting me.[/quote]
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True,
I was largely getting at a TD04 costing roughly 2-3x a replacement VF-10/11. If you can get a Td04 for $100, do it...
I was largely getting at a TD04 costing roughly 2-3x a replacement VF-10/11. If you can get a Td04 for $100, do it...
1974 Porsche 914 Cam Am Limted Edition AKA the Bumble Bee
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
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I'm confused by that page.
How does a compressor map give you any information on spoolup?
And what exactly is the significance of the minimum and "rated" airflow at a particular pressure ratio? Are they just the surge point and the peak efficiency point? Neither of those seem to jive with the map, at least for the TD04, although maybe I'm misinterpreting the leftmost curve as the surge line when it isn't really.
Can anyone help me understand?
How does a compressor map give you any information on spoolup?
And what exactly is the significance of the minimum and "rated" airflow at a particular pressure ratio? Are they just the surge point and the peak efficiency point? Neither of those seem to jive with the map, at least for the TD04, although maybe I'm misinterpreting the leftmost curve as the surge line when it isn't really.
Can anyone help me understand?
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I don't think the map does give you info on the spool up. They are just providing analysis in addition to the maps...
the minimum and rated thing has got me. I've got to do some research now...
the minimum and rated thing has got me. I've got to do some research now...
1974 Porsche 914 Cam Am Limted Edition AKA the Bumble Bee
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!