Replacing bolts on Turbo to Down Pipe

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New92
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Replacing bolts on Turbo to Down Pipe

Post by New92 »

Ok guys, Im tryin to get my new Tsudo uncatted 3" divorced DP installed and Im experiencing some frustration due to extremely corroded fasteners. Ive done a good bit of reading here and on the net and it would seem that the recommended combination is stainless flange nuts with non-stainless bolts. What have you guys used?

So far Ive managed to bork the two studs at the top of the turbo flange (the ones with a nut on both sides) and Ive completely destroyed a bolt to one side closest to the top stud near the waste gate by torquing it till it snapped. I think Im screwed so let me down gently. After such luck Ive left the rest alone for now.

Aside from general emotional support and commiseration Im hoping for the following information:

What can I use to replace the studs and where could I go to get it on the cheap? I was thinking of just cutting a piece of allthread but Im not sure how well that will hold up to the heat?

If I torch that snapped piece can I get it out with some sweat equity or will I need to invest in a good extractor to remove it?

I only started this myself because the exhaust shops wont touch it since it involved replacement of the stock DP with an uncatted piece. I only have basic tools and not much funding (still trying to raise the cash for the muffler and the rest of the piping) so Im looking for working DIY solutions.

As always, any and all advice, suggestions and practiced solutions are very much appreciated.

Ben
1992 SS 5MT
She's growing faster in her old age!
wtdash
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Re: Replacing bolts on Turbo to Down Pipe

Post by wtdash »

Hi,
I've had issues w/the studs, too, so here are my suggestions.
1. Get the extractor NOW as you'll likely need it for other bolts.The stock studs, after 20 years of heat cycles, won't play nice. A friend and I spent a couple hours removing 2 studs trying to drill them out - due to dull bits and/or super-hard stud material. I don't have a torch so can't vouch for that method.
2. I bought my studs @ a parts store - not sure if they were heat-spec'd or not...sorry don't recall the thread.
3. I'd make sure the remaining bolts have been sprayed/soaked in PB Blaster or equivalent. If you have to drive the car everyday, then that's not going to work well, but if you can let it sit for a few days and spray it a couple times a day that should help removal.
4. Once you get the DP removed it might be necessary to remove the turbo just to fix the studs....the 3 bolts that hold the turbo to the up pipe won't play much nicer. I've seen a lot of Subie turbos w/the up pipe still attached, so that may be the easier way out. There are 2 bolts where it attaches to the header and 2-3 bolts for the bracket where it attaches to the head/block, I believe.

GL,
Td
Turbo Subies:
'87 GL-10 Turbo - SOLD
'90 BJ EJ22T/DOHC & 5speed swap - SOLD
'04 FXT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD
'93 Legacy SS - 5-speed, SOLD :-(
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Legacy777
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Re: Replacing bolts on Turbo to Down Pipe

Post by Legacy777 »

Those studs on the turbo are a huge pain in the ass to remove. I've got a turbo with bad studs, but can't get them out. Try the torch and PB Blaster.

You can get replacement studs at the autoparts store. They come in one of those misc. bolt packages. I can try and get you the the part # info from the box if you want.
Josh

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JDMSLIK
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Re: Replacing bolts on Turbo to Down Pipe

Post by JDMSLIK »

dude....I feel your pain, I've mangled tooo many of those

1.) in canada we use wd-40, and lots of it. I ussually buy a pump spray bottle a 2 litre can of the goods. It's cheaper and better for the environment

2.) get an extranctor, they work but alot of the times they just shear off the stud or bolt in the turbo

3.) if it does shear, hopefully there's a chunk still there you can get a set of straight jawed vice grips onto. i ussually take the turbo out, put it in the vice. Heat the turbo flange around the busted bolt up till it's red hot and work it back and forth with wd and lots of it. Don't breathe in the fumes and don't apply if it's on fire.

4.) drill it out.... this sucks

5.) keep cool......a calm method of brute force and ignorance is the mindset to keep when working with seized or old rusty shit. Try busting off frame nuts in the rails, keep cool and you'll turn into a jedi
JDMSLIK
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Re: Replacing bolts on Turbo to Down Pipe

Post by JDMSLIK »

oh ya if you can use vice grips, try to put it on a solid piece and you got really clamp it down. Remember brute force and ignorance and don't grind your teeth....they will hurt
New92
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Re: Replacing bolts on Turbo to Down Pipe

Post by New92 »

JDMSLIK wrote:oh ya if you can use vice grips, try to put it on a solid piece and you got really clamp it down. Remember brute force and ignorance and don't grind your teeth....they will hurt
Thanks man. Ive been meaning to reply to your sage jedi wisdom but have been lax.


I appreciate all the help guys. :wink:
1992 SS 5MT
She's growing faster in her old age!
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