kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 6:17 am

Damn, hit up craigslist for a compressor. I got my 60 gallon Sanborn off cragslist for $300.

The companion flange is torqued to something like 120 ft-lbs or more, so it is rather tough to do with a breaker bar and the rear wheels off the ground.

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 2:37 pm

dropdfocus wrote:Oh dear God!!! I would have NEVER gotten my project to the running condition it is as of this week without my beloved air tools!!!!!!!!! I am very sorry for your loss Kimo.

Yeah it wasn't much of a loss though as I had only used it a couple times. Other than that it's always been hand tools for me.

I may hit up craigslist sooner or later but I don't want a cheap compressor that's not going to last and I don't want a small one which is just going to keep turning on all the time when I'm using it. I want a big ass one.

At the time I was going to buy one of these.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... 284_158284

That's the same brand compressor as the one we had and they told me they would give us $200 off a new one from them or $100 cash for our recalled compressor. I told my parents I'd buy the $200 off them for $100 and get that compressor with their coupon and some cash.

But while I was asleep or gone or something they came and my parents let them take it for $100! I was pissed. I told them I was going to give them $100 anyways and then save myself $100 off that tank but they don't listen.

So I'm compressorless. Didn't feel like forking out the extra $100 at the time. Or didn't have it.

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 2:42 pm

93forestpearl wrote:The companion flange is torqued to something like 120 ft-lbs or more, so it is rather tough to do with a breaker bar and the rear wheels off the ground.

The threads on the end of that nut which subaru calls a self-locking nut, are smaller than the rest of the threads on the nut. It's like they pinched the top threads down in 2 places on opposite sides of the nut so when you got the nut on past the end of the nut it would grab the threads really tight and not come off. I believe that combined with 15*F temp and 76K miles it preventing that nut from coming off.

What is also making it more difficult is the play in the diff/axles/hubs. When I push on the breaker bar the whole system kind of flexes and gives a little. This results in a sort of cushioning effect preventing me from getting a good solid torque on it. I'm still pushing extremely hard on it but I'm not getting a good jerk in the beginning. It's as if I'm pushing against a really hard spring.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 3:24 pm

Try the hold technique, then. Whatever you're flexing will want to flex back and, over time, work against the bolt. Maybe. I tried a bunch of things to get a couple of the rear bumper beam bolts out of my car and came up to needing heat, which is a bad idea in the inside back of a wagon, so I put a pipe on my breaker again and this time I loaded the bolt and leaned on it, occasionally giving it a little extra push. After a few minutes each, they all came out.

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:11 pm

That's the technique I had to use to get my axle nuts off. 3' pipe on breaker bar handle. I thought the breaker bar was going to break before the nut came loose. And it didn't come loose easily even with the pipe. I had to use all my weight and practically ram the thing.

When it broke loose there was such a loud crack I thought I had snapped the breaker bar in two.

I think maybe I need to try heating it. How do you do that anyways? Just get a torch and heat it up for a while and then quickly put the socket on and crank on it? Is there a more intricate method of heating? I've never used heat before to break something loose.

Do you think the cold weather is affecting it at all? It was 15*F when I was doing this and has been that way for several days. I work on it at night at like 1am til 4-6am. During the day it's not a whole lot warmer at 20-30. But that can't last forever in washington. It'll be 50 again soon I bet.

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 9:56 am

Yeah, cold weather will definitely play a part in fasteners not coming loose. Warmth/heat is your friend!

mike-tracy · Post by **mike-tracy** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 10:56 am

The way I was tought is to hold a torch over it till it starts to get really hot, then remove the heat and spray it with WD-40 or the like.

The penetrate is sucked into the crevices while the metal is hot.

You might have to repeat this several times and maybe let it sit for a while to soak in more.

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 1:55 pm

But do you try to remove the bolt while it's hot or let it cool? I'm guessing while it's hot but just to be sure.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 4:22 pm

The penetrant will cool it. You don't really have to wait any longer than that. The heat will also make it less likely to break. Also watch the fumes—I'm sure they're not a great thing to breathe in.

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:20 pm

Wait, can I use a propane torch? Or do I need something hotter?

My step dad has an acetalene torch. We used the tanks over the summer to make acetalene balloons. Those babies are loud when they blow! I had my doubts about the balloons making any sort of explosion but let me tell you, you can really feel it hit your chest when they go off.

A few days after making them my step dad told me he was telling one of the neighbors (who heard them go off) about them and the guy said one time he was making them and brought one in the house for some stupid reason and it was set off by static and blew every one of his windows out! HAHAHAHA! I laughed pretty hard when I heard that. What a dumbass. His wife was in the house with him at the time. I'd love to see her reaction to that one.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:37 pm

Yeah, morons who build their own fireworks often take themselves out of the gene pool (though likely later than preferable since idiots tend to start reproducing early) through improper grounding.

Propane torches aren't very hot, but if it's handy, it wouldn't hurt to try.

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 6:22 pm

I've used a propane bottle torch in my garage to heat stuff up plenty of times. They work well for their size.

smh0101 · Post by **smh0101** » Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:25 pm

So how long do you think it'll be till she runs?

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:30 am

Who knows. I haven't touched it in 3 weeks or so. At this point once something prevents me from progressing (the stupid diff nut at the moment) I get pretty unmotivated and forget about it for a while. Not good for progress.

There's so many little things that it needs too. Like the MAF that's extremely rare that I need to find. At least the suspension is almost done, I'm thinking I'll buy the 22mm front swaybar from whiteline. Found it for $174 shipped from neverenoughauto.com.

I'm hoping it'll be running by summer. I may be moving in the summertime or close to fall. I'm not sure, depends on if I can find a new job. I don't really want to because I have a good paying job and job security here but my girlfriend is going to school north of seattle. We'll see. Either way I'm going to have to move because I live at her parents house right now.

Mattheww044 · Post by **Mattheww044** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 4:39 am

can't wait to see this thing up and runnin

asc_up · Post by **asc_up** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 7:52 am

Which MAF do you need Kimo? I have a metal Hitachi MAF and a plastic JECS MAF lying around here.

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:30 am

I need a JECS MAF but it's gotta be the right bolt pattern and the only car that I know of which has the right bolt pattern is the 93-98 legacy twin turbos from Japan. That's the airbox I have but the guy didn't have the MAF for it or he was using it so all I got was the box.

I believe this is a picture of the airbox side by side with the stock 91SS airbox and MAF to give you an idea of how much taller the bolt pattern is.

If your MAF bolts right up to the USDM legacy airbox, it won't fit my airbox.

Mattheww044 · Post by **Mattheww044** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:47 am

Looks like your far enough in your build that you should have a JDM parts guy

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:57 am

No shit huh! But I don't

JDM parts sure are spendy if you have to import them yourself. Far cheaper if you can find them here as leftovers from someone's project.

Mattheww044 · Post by **Mattheww044** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:33 am

yea, definately and I hardly doubt anyone had any need for the JDM MAF, but who knows. BTW i messaged several guys about that trim piece and I will get your pics tomorrow so you can get yours figured out too!

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:04 pm

Sweet. I'm going to swap the Group A shortshifter out for a kartboy WRX shortshifter when I pay off some debt.

Christmas is a rough time of year. Been living paycheck to paycheck for quite a while now. Haven't even given anybody christmas presents yet. Shit happens though. Today I will give some away hopefully.

smh0101 · Post by **smh0101** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 7:19 pm

Could you use the MAF that was on the ARC Box way back when?

SubaruNation · Post by **SubaruNation** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:25 pm

so correct me if im wrong but..

wwwwhy not get the right maf and create your own boltpattern attachment to make it work?

its just an electrical component it a metal tube really, you could build/fab something that would work rather easily.

you just need the right diameter metal piping that holds the pressure.

smh0101 · Post by **smh0101** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:33 pm

Or you could make a plastic adaptor fairly easily.

Or why not just get a different Airbox with a compatible MAF.

Or take an airbox from a 98ish LGT and cut off the part the MAF mates to then mold it into your airbox and use a JECS maf that will work.

SubaruNation · Post by **SubaruNation** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:38 pm

^^^^ indeed

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kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap