kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Information about specific car builds.

Moderator: Moderators

Post Reply
smh0101
Fifth Gear
Posts: 3055
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 7:56 am
Location: Orlando, FL

Post by smh0101 »

ONe thing... when you put the tranny and engine back together, be sure to put the throwout bearing on the clutchfork and put it back on the transmission along with the rod. When its all together you just have to push back on the clutch fork to snap the throwout bearing into place. ;)

Otherwise your trying to fish around and put the clutch fork in with it together and its a pita.

And make sure you clean the clutch fork rod and regrease it with a good synthetic grease. I didnt when I had the engine out last time so it took me two hours to get the goddamn rod out when I did the engine swap a few days ago.

Its sure looking good!! :)
~Spencer
94 Legacy Turbo (550 Robtune/ej20h v2 Sti RA drivetrain)
94 Legacy Ti Wagon (5mt ej22e)
91 rhd Legacy GT Wagon (factory 5mt, ej20g)
93 rhd Legacy GT type S2 Sedan (4eat, ej20g)
91 rhd Legacy Ti Type S 1.8
03 Lincoln LS V8 Sport
08 300 SRT8
jake15
Fourth Gear
Posts: 1386
Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2003 6:42 am
Location: spanaway, Washington

Post by jake15 »

good work kimo! i'm glad this car ended up with someone who'll finally put it back together :D

that new style metal oil separator plate uses the same bolts as the oil pans do, so if you have some of those lying around save yourself some money and use them.

Do not use a lightened flywheel and a lightened crank pulley, you'll run into issues as there is not enough rotational mass they tend to run weird, choose one or the other.
90' legacy built ej257 gt30r 6spd r180 and brembos Bitches 402whp @22psi :D -sexy red
94' Impreza wagon AWD 2.2ltr rally wagon FTW!
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

Damnit! lol Here I thought I would have a sport bike revving engine....

I was kind of thinking that it wouldn't be so good for cruising though.

Maybe a stupid question but, do I need to reseal that cover when I replace those bolts?

How do I decide which to use, the lightweight pulleys or the lightweight flywheel?

If I use the pulleys, which flywheel do I use? Buy an OEM one? For the 91 turbo or for a 97 forester?

New one for the 91 turbo is $230 from 1stsubaruparts.com

Or should I just go cheap and resurface the one off the motor?
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
PhyrraM
Fourth Gear
Posts: 1980
Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2005 4:34 pm
Location: Lake Elsinore, CA

Post by PhyrraM »

Go with the LW flywheel and keep the stock pulley. It has a bit of dampening in it that might still be benificial.
'93 Winestone SS Auto, '91 Pearl White SS.
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

You mean that rubber decoupler? I think I've noticed that before. Is it on all the stock pulleys? I thought I saw one that didn't have the rubber.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

smh0101 wrote:ONe thing... when you put the tranny and engine back together, be sure to put the throwout bearing on the clutchfork and put it back on the transmission along with the rod. When its all together you just have to push back on the clutch fork to snap the throwout bearing into place. ;)

Otherwise your trying to fish around and put the clutch fork in with it together and its a pita.

And make sure you clean the clutch fork rod and regrease it with a good synthetic grease. I didnt when I had the engine out last time so it took me two hours to get the goddamn rod out when I did the engine swap a few days ago.

Its sure looking good!! :)

Thanks for the tip. I have permatex white lithium spray. Will that work or should I use actual grease? I've got some general purpose chevron grease but I doubt it's synthetic.





Got some goodies today from harbor freight. Girlfriend's civic is leaking coolant so I got a radiator tester. That engine stand was only $40 750lb stand. The leveler was $35 for 2 ton. The radiator tester kit was $80 I think.

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image



Had a couple buddies to keep me company while I was working. The first one I almost stepped on before I saw it. The second one wouldn't quit following me around trying to climb on me so I put him on my stool. Next thing you know I wanted to sit on the stool but I found a bucket instead and let him sleep on it. At least he shut up while he was sleeping.

Image
Image
Image
Image
Last edited by kimokalihi on Fri Jul 03, 2009 12:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

Image




I drained the oil because I was going to remove the oil and water pumps and replace them with the new ones that are on my EJ20H. I noticed this motor also has an oil cooler like the EJ22T. Which is cool because I won't have to plug the coolant outlet off the bottom of the EJ22T water pump.

I also noticed there was almost no oil in this motor. Do they drain them before shipping them? That worries me. When I pulled the plug I was expecting a healthy flow of oil and instead it came out in a thing stream for a few seconds and then just dripped. In this picture you can still see the ribs on the bottom of the pan. :shock:

Image
Image



Spark plugs look a bit sooty/oily. Probably not a big deal.

Image
Image



Timing belt looks to be in excellent shape along with everything else behind the timing covers. :D

Image
Image



New style timing belt tensioner. Cool?

Image
Image



Another thing that I noticed which worries me. Same the passenger side cam gears line up and the crank notch lines up but the driver side cam gears are pretty far off. Slip? When I took the covers off my EJ20H it was the same way. Is that normal?

Image
Image
Image
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
dropdfocus
Fourth Gear
Posts: 1937
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 5:57 am
Location: Williamsport, PA
Contact:

Post by dropdfocus »

It will happen with belt stretch. Even with a brand new belt the marks may not exactly line up 100%. Remember, they are just a reference point of where the cams need to be for TDC.

BTW, very nice progress so far!
Jason
'92 LSS "Trixie" - TD04, '06 WRX TMIC, Invidia D/P & TXS U/P, 3" APEX'i CBE, custom intake, TXS MBC & BPV
Perrin LCP, WRX & H6 brakes, S/S lines, Cusco H-brace & RSTB, AGX's, Progress springs, SimplySubie fender braces
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

Thanks! I was wondering if maybe it was just that way when it had been sitting for a while and maybe it would tighten up when the motor was running or something.

I kind of felt like the progress was going a bit slow myself. What you don't see is all the set backs I run into and all the stupid trips 20 mins away to the next town for tools and parts. Gonna need oil seals and stuff from the stealership. I bet they want like $8 a cam seal too, when they're like $2.50 each online.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
dropdfocus
Fourth Gear
Posts: 1937
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 5:57 am
Location: Williamsport, PA
Contact:

Post by dropdfocus »

Check with somewhere like Advance Auto Parts first. I know for a fact that we have a listing for cam seals & such through FelPro.
Jason
'92 LSS "Trixie" - TD04, '06 WRX TMIC, Invidia D/P & TXS U/P, 3" APEX'i CBE, custom intake, TXS MBC & BPV
Perrin LCP, WRX & H6 brakes, S/S lines, Cusco H-brace & RSTB, AGX's, Progress springs, SimplySubie fender braces
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

I don't know where any advanced auto parts places are. I only know autzone, napa, cut rate auto parts and schuck's. The last two I hate. I got to autozone but mainly only for fluids, wiper blades or the occasional cheap tool. For the subaru I buy almost all OEM parts.

I think I will for my metro from now on too. I bought a flywheel from autozone and it's too big by a hair and the starter can't disengage quick enough before the engine starts and it makes a nasty noise.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

I just remembered I could still count the teeth and see if it's slipped or not.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
PhyrraM
Fourth Gear
Posts: 1980
Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2005 4:34 pm
Location: Lake Elsinore, CA

Post by PhyrraM »

For the timing belt, look at the outside of the gears for another timing mark and a notch in the timing cover. They are at 12 o'clock on the intake cams, and 9 and 3 o'clock on the exhausts. Those usually line up better than the twin marks. It's been my experience that those "facing" marks are always a bit off on that side of the engine.
'93 Winestone SS Auto, '91 Pearl White SS.
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack
Airgne
Second Gear
Posts: 480
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 10:35 pm
Location: 横須賀  さいたま 日本

Post by Airgne »

good job so far. they had to drain the oil before shipping for hazmat reasons. for future ref go to napa in yelm. my cousin owns it and can find anything.
1997 Nissan Laurel ClubS25t
2001 Legacy Gt Ltd(167awhp&165.7awtq)Best 00-04 Legacy at WCSS11(West Coast Subaru Show)
1992 Legacy SS(Sold)
1991 Legacy L Wagon(Sold)(400,000+miles and running strong!!)
smh0101
Fifth Gear
Posts: 3055
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 7:56 am
Location: Orlando, FL

Post by smh0101 »

Be sure to use actual grease and use A LOT of it... I used Mobile 1 Synthetic Grease, but any Heavy Duty Application grease should work just fine.

And what the hell kinda bug is that???
~Spencer
94 Legacy Turbo (550 Robtune/ej20h v2 Sti RA drivetrain)
94 Legacy Ti Wagon (5mt ej22e)
91 rhd Legacy GT Wagon (factory 5mt, ej20g)
93 rhd Legacy GT type S2 Sedan (4eat, ej20g)
91 rhd Legacy Ti Type S 1.8
03 Lincoln LS V8 Sport
08 300 SRT8
douglas vincent
Knowledgeable
Knowledgeable
Posts: 3333
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2003 5:50 am
Location: OR, Portland
Contact:

Post by douglas vincent »

Timing SHOULD NOT BE like that. Fix it.
Reddevil, Awaiting new heart, will it ever happen?
1990 wagon, EJ25 12.3 @ 116.5 FAST Family wagon getting new motor soon
1992 wagon, wifes daily, high compression
1992 Touring wagon, should I keep it?
smh0101
Fifth Gear
Posts: 3055
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 7:56 am
Location: Orlando, FL

Post by smh0101 »

^^ Ditto

But it shouldnt be enough to eff up the valves
~Spencer
94 Legacy Turbo (550 Robtune/ej20h v2 Sti RA drivetrain)
94 Legacy Ti Wagon (5mt ej22e)
91 rhd Legacy GT Wagon (factory 5mt, ej20g)
93 rhd Legacy GT type S2 Sedan (4eat, ej20g)
91 rhd Legacy Ti Type S 1.8
03 Lincoln LS V8 Sport
08 300 SRT8
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

I'll definately fix it when I put the new oil pump, water pump, cam and crank seals and the new timing belt on. Should only be a few days and I'll have that all done. I'm gonna go to the dealership right now actually.

I don't know what kind of bug that is but I see them about once a year in the summer here. Crazy bug. I pet that bug and it's got a very hard shell covering it's wings. Those antennea are insane looking! It's like a bunch of leaves all fanned out. Or fins. I wonder why it's like that.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
dropdfocus
Fourth Gear
Posts: 1937
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 5:57 am
Location: Williamsport, PA
Contact:

Post by dropdfocus »

It's a JDM bug! :mrgreen:
Jason
'92 LSS "Trixie" - TD04, '06 WRX TMIC, Invidia D/P & TXS U/P, 3" APEX'i CBE, custom intake, TXS MBC & BPV
Perrin LCP, WRX & H6 brakes, S/S lines, Cusco H-brace & RSTB, AGX's, Progress springs, SimplySubie fender braces
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

I bet they want like $8 a cam seal too, when they're like $2.50 each online.
I was wrong. They wanted over $10 a seal and like $11 or so for the crank seal. Jesus Christ. For 4 cam seals, 1 crank seal and two drive belts they wanted $97 plus tax. $105 for 2 belts and 5 selts.

I told them I buy all my parts from the renton dealership online and it's a fraction of that price.

$5.77 for a cam seal from 1stsubaruparts.com
$6.17 for a crank seal
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
dropdfocus
Fourth Gear
Posts: 1937
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 5:57 am
Location: Williamsport, PA
Contact:

Post by dropdfocus »

Kimo, I have a couple questions for ya...
1. what is the exact part number for that shifter linkage joint (can't see it clearly enough to make it out)
2. where did you pick up the blue urethane replacement bushings from to swap out the factory rubber ones?
3. were you going to keep the new OEM rubber bushings you replaced with the blue ones?
4. how did you swap out the black rubber pieces for the blue urethane ones? The pins look mushroomed at the end which would make them non serviceable.
kimokalihi wrote:Image
Image
Jason
'92 LSS "Trixie" - TD04, '06 WRX TMIC, Invidia D/P & TXS U/P, 3" APEX'i CBE, custom intake, TXS MBC & BPV
Perrin LCP, WRX & H6 brakes, S/S lines, Cusco H-brace & RSTB, AGX's, Progress springs, SimplySubie fender braces
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

I'm assuming you're talking about the joint with the 4 blue bushings?

I think that joint may only be for the WRX shift linkage. I really can't remember. I know it fit right on to my JDM 97 forester shift linkage. But I've never looked at the shift linkage for the 90-94 legacys.

The bushings come in the joint, you can't get that joint apart to replace them. It's either welded together or pressed together. You have to replace the whole joint to replace the bushings. Lame. But the bushings were non-existant on that tranny. They were nowhere to be found!

35047ac030 $42.04 from 1stsubaruparts.com

Image
Image
Image
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

Quick little update. I worked on my engine a tad bit. I took the brand new water pump, oil pump with new crank seal, new thermostat and idlers off the EJ20H motor and put them on the EJ20G. I had to reuse the timing belt tensioner idler because I didn't the newer style tensioner idler. But I checked it and it spins smoothly with no play so I'm not worried about it. Looks new too.

Image




Then I installed new cam seals just in case. No oil leakage but peace of mind I suppose.

Image




Then I installed the new OEM subaru timing belt.....

Everything looked great except the driver side cam double hash marks didn't line up again although all the marks on the belt did.

Image
Image
Image





Image
Image
Image
Image
Image




I gave the crank a couple spins and the double marks lined up better after that. Not perfect but better and I could tell by looking at the teeth that moving it one tooth in either direction would have made it far worse.

Image



I rejoiced and grabbed up my FSM and looked up the torque specs for everything.

Here's where I have to rant about this stupid book. I used to think this book was the greatest book I've ever owned. Actually I still do but this pisses me off.

On page 13 of the 2nd book it shows a diagram of the front of the engine and all the timing components. It lists the torque for the cam gear at 54-61ft lbs. Great. Not sure why it's a general measurement and not just one exact number but whatever.

On page 21 of the 2nd book it shows another diagram for installation and it lists the torque for the cam sprockets as 47-54ft lbs!

WTF!

Which is it? That's unacceptable for SUBARU to do. Or Fuji or whatever. I expect that from Haynes or Chilton but seriously, SUBARU? C'mon! So I guess the real torque spec for the cam sprockets is anywhere you please from about 47-61. That's quite the range there. Ridiculous.




Anyways, getting back on track. I don't have the special tool to hold the sprockets in place while you torque them so I put a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt and started to torque the cam bolts to 54ft lbs. Then I heard a crack. Didn't think much of it so I kept torquing it. 3 more cracks and I stopped to inspect it.

This is what I saw.

Image




The noise was the belt slipping. I didn't think it should do that. Is there another way to hold that sprocket still while torquing it? Should it slip like that from less than 50ft lbs of torque? How much torque does the engine put on the belt when you put your foot into and drop the clutch? Is the tensioner not working right? Or is this normal?

Now I'm worried.

That's where I left off. Had to come home and go to sleep. It's now 6:45am and I'm going to go make dinner and go to bed. Gotta get up and go wakeboarding before work! :D
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
kimokalihi
Fifth Gear
Posts: 8360
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Location: Tenino, WA

Post by kimokalihi »

Does anybody have the number of teeth there should be between the crank and cams on the DOHC motors?

I can't find them. I've been trying to download FSMs for later legacy's but they keep having just the SOHC part in them.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
PhyrraM
Fourth Gear
Posts: 1980
Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2005 4:34 pm
Location: Lake Elsinore, CA

Post by PhyrraM »

Not sure about those particular heads, but most OHC cams have flat spots cast into the cams (under the valve covers, take them off) that you can put an adjustable wrench on. You can then torque the sprocket bolts while holding the cam your working on with a wrench.

You can see it just in front of the first camshaft lobe in this pic. Note...this is a BC/BF Legacy EJ20G with the stub rockers.
Image


If all the outside marks line up like in your pics, don't worry about the slight mismatch on the "double" hash marks.
'93 Winestone SS Auto, '91 Pearl White SS.
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack
Post Reply