kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

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SLODRIVE
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Post by SLODRIVE »

1/4" aluminum plate + 2.5" holesaw + drill bit for bolt holes + Sawzall + old gasket (to trace pattern) = TB spacer! It's not nearly as hard as you think.

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http://www.slodriveracing.com
-92 SS 5MT- EJ20H swap, Haltech standalone ECU, TD04, FXT TMIC, 3" exhaust, STi/AGX struts, JDM 5-speed, 4.111 LSD rear, Blitz EBC, etc.
-'93 L Wagon - Pink Roll Cage - "Dirty Leg"
-And more!
kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

But you'd need a drill press right? I don't have the hole saw bit, where do you get one that will cut through aluminum? I have a wood hole saw kit but there's no way it'll withstand aluminum.

Do you use gaskets with that?
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91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
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SLODRIVE
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Post by SLODRIVE »

kimokalihi wrote:But you'd need a drill press right? I don't have the hole saw bit, where do you get one that will cut through aluminum? I have a wood hole saw kit but there's no way it'll withstand aluminum.

Do you use gaskets with that?
I used a drill press (since I have one), but it's not absolutely necessary. You'll be able to make a straight enough center hole if you're careful with a hand drill, and you should be cleaning up the hole with a grinder/Dremel anyway. The mounting holes I drilled on the large size so I wouldn't have any issues. I just used a decent Home Depot hole saw (it says Lenox on the saw blade) and it cut through the aluminum pretty easily.

And yes, you need a gasket on each side of the spacer.
http://www.slodriveracing.com
-92 SS 5MT- EJ20H swap, Haltech standalone ECU, TD04, FXT TMIC, 3" exhaust, STi/AGX struts, JDM 5-speed, 4.111 LSD rear, Blitz EBC, etc.
-'93 L Wagon - Pink Roll Cage - "Dirty Leg"
-And more!
kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

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"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
93forestpearl
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Post by 93forestpearl »

They still make that swaybar? I NEED one.
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

$221 shipped I believe from never enough auto accessories.

Here's the link, shipped in less than a week I think. They drop ship from australia direct from whiteline so you don't have to pay extra to have it shipped to them first and then out to you. Shipping is free, or at least it was a couple months ago when I ordered mine.

http://www.neverenoughauto.com/index.ph ... t_id=10936
Last edited by kimokalihi on Sat Jul 25, 2009 1:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

I compared the thottle bodies today. It does fit upside down. The TPS are not interchangeable I believe and in order to get it to fit you need to get longer vacuum hoses for the IAC and purge solenoid and it interferes with the pipe that runs across the top of the manifold, I think from the IAC to the intake tube.

I'll get pictures up when I get home from work in the morning.
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91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

Here's a comparison of the EJ22T manifold and the EJ20G manifold. The EJ20G has the IAC on the left of the throttle body in these pictures and the throttle cable thingy is on the wrong side.

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The EJ20G TB is the one with the tape on it.

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EJ20G

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EJ22T

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Here you can see there's a large difference in length of the throttle body inlets.

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I bolted the EJ22T up to the EJ20G manifold here upside down to see if it would fit and it does for the most part. But this is where I found out why you need the spacer. The TPS mount does not clear the manifold.

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This is why I don't think you can swap TPS's. One is straight and one is offset...a lot. So I would imagine that would make it impossible to swap them.

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Here's the two hoses that need to be longer to go to the top of the throttle body if I were to mount the EJ22T upside down.

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Here's the pipe that doesn't clear those two hose fittings.

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Last edited by kimokalihi on Sat Jul 25, 2009 9:26 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

I'll finish editing this later. I can't keep my damn eyes open. I keep falling asleep sitting here trying to type.
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

Got my heat wrap today. Really quick shipment, I think that was only 2 days. 3 at the max.

How do these stainless ties work? Do you just pull them tight and smash them with a hammer or something?

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dropdfocus
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Post by dropdfocus »

Simply pull them tight. You can fold back the remaining amount so it creates a kink & it can't pull back through easily.

I may end up pulling off my down pipe and up pipe & wrapping them. Should reduce under hood temps fairly well. I've heard wrapping the hot side of the turbo is a good idea as well.
Jason
'92 LSS "Trixie" - TD04, '06 WRX TMIC, Invidia D/P & TXS U/P, 3" APEX'i CBE, custom intake, TXS MBC & BPV
Perrin LCP, WRX & H6 brakes, S/S lines, Cusco H-brace & RSTB, AGX's, Progress springs, SimplySubie fender braces
kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

Looking at the turbo and this wrap I don't see how you wrap the actual turbo itself. I gotta see pictures of this.
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91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
SLODRIVE
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Post by SLODRIVE »

I'll try to post a pic of how I wrapped my turbo this weekend.
http://www.slodriveracing.com
-92 SS 5MT- EJ20H swap, Haltech standalone ECU, TD04, FXT TMIC, 3" exhaust, STi/AGX struts, JDM 5-speed, 4.111 LSD rear, Blitz EBC, etc.
-'93 L Wagon - Pink Roll Cage - "Dirty Leg"
-And more!
kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

Are you talking about this kind of turbo wrap? Not the stuff I bought for the pipes?

Image[/quote]
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91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
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dropdfocus
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Post by dropdfocus »

Yes, the foil/nomex blanket wrap.
Jason
'92 LSS "Trixie" - TD04, '06 WRX TMIC, Invidia D/P & TXS U/P, 3" APEX'i CBE, custom intake, TXS MBC & BPV
Perrin LCP, WRX & H6 brakes, S/S lines, Cusco H-brace & RSTB, AGX's, Progress springs, SimplySubie fender braces
SLODRIVE
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Post by SLODRIVE »

^^^ That's much nicer than what I did, LOL. I just used some of the same tape I ordered for the downpipe. It doesn't cover the whole thing, but it still helps keep the temps down somewhat:
Image
http://www.slodriveracing.com
-92 SS 5MT- EJ20H swap, Haltech standalone ECU, TD04, FXT TMIC, 3" exhaust, STi/AGX struts, JDM 5-speed, 4.111 LSD rear, Blitz EBC, etc.
-'93 L Wagon - Pink Roll Cage - "Dirty Leg"
-And more!
kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

Is there any way you can prevent the bolts and nuts on the exhaust and turbo from rusting like that?
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91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
SLODRIVE
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Post by SLODRIVE »

kimokalihi wrote:Is there any way you can prevent the bolts and nuts on the exhaust and turbo from rusting like that?
Getting *new* zinc-plated harware (or stainless if you want to blow $$$) will go a long ways. Most good hardware stores carry what you need.
http://www.slodriveracing.com
-92 SS 5MT- EJ20H swap, Haltech standalone ECU, TD04, FXT TMIC, 3" exhaust, STi/AGX struts, JDM 5-speed, 4.111 LSD rear, Blitz EBC, etc.
-'93 L Wagon - Pink Roll Cage - "Dirty Leg"
-And more!
PhyrraM
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Post by PhyrraM »

It's hard, but I use a Super-hi temp Nevr-Seez. Seems to work, but it seems my downpipe is off once a year. So, it gets refreshed often.
'93 Winestone SS Auto, '91 Pearl White SS.
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
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Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

The zinc coating will get baked off over time. It doesn't last. SS is probably the only way to keep it off for sure.
Josh

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93forestpearl
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Post by 93forestpearl »

Stainless is decent, but the threads like to gal up over time if you have it on and off a lot. A high carbon plain steel has worked the best as of late. Like 12.x metric allen bolts, the black ones. I tried stainless on my turbo inlet flange, but these other ones have kept their form together better, especially on the threads. They will rust though, and I live in Minnesota so the environment is a bit rough.
→Dan

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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

Got the aluminum today. Cost me a pretty penny to make this throttle spacer. But it looks like I'll be able to make quite a few of them. Either 9 of them or 12 of them depending on the exact size of the spacer. Gotta measure it.

$13.42 Aluminum 12"x12"x1/4"
$15.95 Hole Saw Arbor
$12.95 Hole Saw 2.5"
---------------------------------------
$45.92 After tax :shock:

Bummer

Hopefully I can make some of these and come up with a price for them to cover the cost and also save some people some money vs spending $46 to make a spacer. I guess they could have bought a smaller piece of aluminum but still the hole saw and arbor was the expensive part.

Maybe $12 shipped or something I dunno.



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98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

Today I took the aluminum and hole saw bit to my friends house where he has a drill press. And I found out that hole saw is a piece of shit. It wobbles and cuts a fucked up hole. Really pisses me off. I'm going to take it back.

I did cut the hole out though and drilled the holes for the bolts and was off by a little bit. Also I found out the intake side of the throttle body is smaller than the intercooler side so the hole saw was too big. The hole saw itself fits into the intercooler side barely but it actually bigger than the hole on the other side. Great.

Do you think this hole being this much bigger is going to create problems for me? I don't think I can find the perfect size hole saw and I'm not about to buy another one after seeing how shitty it cut the hole.

I tried calling the machine shops to see how much it would be to cut this out. Should only take a couple minutes to do but I bet they want like $100+ for it. Bastards. Unfortunately I realized it was saturday and about 5pm so they were all closed. Nothing like having setback after setback after setback and it never ends. Stupid project is coming along at a snails pace.





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98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
PhyrraM
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Post by PhyrraM »

The space should work just fine.

Take a file and knock off any loose aluminum, and run it.

You can shoose to improve it later, after the car is running.
'93 Winestone SS Auto, '91 Pearl White SS.
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack
SP-Boxer
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Post by SP-Boxer »

I knew those swaybars are still available, but those pre-93 endlinks I can't find...
"I feel Legacy"
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