kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

[Mattheww044]

thats quite the intake set-up you have there haha. Nice to see things kickin along though, stoked to see it all done!

[kimokalihi]

Yeah I think slodrive has the same intake setup with a cone filter but I don't know how he did it because my hood won't even close. It'll get to the first click but won't lock down with the second click without bending the hood. That intake hose off the top hits the hood, the manifold hits the hood and the coolant tank hits the hood, all right on the support in the hood.

I don't think it's the phenolic spacers either. They're only 8mm tall. Less than a cm and I'm pretty sure it's closer to an inch too tall.

[Mattheww044]

hmmmmm... gotta love stuff hitting the hood. and I heard cutting the supports AT ALL takes away alot of its structure... what do you plan on doin?

[kimokalihi]

Well that's what I had planned on doing, I don't really see any other option. I could remove the phenolic spacers but I'd really rather not, especially considering how much trouble I went through just trying to get the manifold in place and the silicone hose on the turbo.

The hood already lost structural support when I cut that hole larger for the scoop. It made a big difference and feels flimsy now. The pain on the hood is shitty so who knows if I'll even keep it. Might look at an NA hood and see how it compares and if it would be stronger to use and cut a hole in than the turbo hood.

[Legacy777]

What exactly is the difference between 5 wire and 3 wire connectors? What's the extra 2 wires for?

The extra two wires are for the MAF identification on the first gen legacies. One is 5v reference back to the ECU, and the other is ground.

Here's a diagram.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting1.jpg

[kimokalihi]

Fixed my problem with the hood hitting the engine and not closing all the way. It was hitting the hose/pipe on top of the intake manifold that goes to the IAC and the coolant resevoir tank. I am going to mount the tank a bit differently so it's lower once I get some bolts for it. To solve the pipe problem I removed the heat insulation pad from the bottom side of the hood and took a small sledge hammer to the support that is hitting the pipe. Problem solved! Nice and flush now.









I replaced my tall straight USDM clutch resevoir with this nice offset shorty resevoir from New Zealand. Clears my 06 TMIC perfectly to where the intercooler is actually sitting right on top of it and is now level instead of being too high on that side with the stock resevoir.











Relocated the ignitor out of the way of the intercooler.








I came up with several questions that need answering.

Is this set up right? The clutch pedal is stuck to the floor. I can pull it up and it pops up and stays up but as soon as you push on it it pops back down and stays on the floor. It doesn't feel like it's doing anything and I'm pretty sure that plunger is not moving at all when you push the clutch pedal in. May need to be bled or turn the car on, I dunno.







Here are the cam, crank and knock sensors. I can't seem to find wehre they plug into. I thought they plug into the engine harness that's under the manifold but I don't see the plugs for them except this one plug that's coming off the loom that goes to the alternator. It fits the cam and crank sensor plug but I don't know which one it's for.










Do I connect this recirculation hole in the intercooler somehow up to this pipe that runs from the intake right before the turbo and plumb in a Bypass Valve?









I've got this nice thingy here but not sure if it's useful in this situation and I'm not sure if it'll clear the hood with a hose on it. I also have no idea what that black plug thing is for because it doesn't fit on that metal piece in any way.









I don't know which of these fuel line hoses goes to which fuel line on the manifold.

[kleinkid]

I'm first, so will take the easy one. Put that triangle flange with the nipple on the intercooler, don't use the paper gasket, that red rubber is the o-ring, so to speak. What BPV are you using? That determinse what you do there next.

[Binford]

In no particular order here goes:

1) You need to bleed your clutch. Pain in the ass to do.

2) the sensor plugs you need are coming from the firewall harnesses. All three of them. The plu by the alternator is for the AC pump.

3) I believe the hose coming from the fuel filter goes on the top line on the manifold. The other two hoses should be of slightly different sizes so it should be easy to figure out which goes where. At least on EJ22/EJ22t manifolds.



That's all I got for now.

[Mattheww044]

yea I would like to see what you are doing for your BPV as well. getting ready for my TMIC install but not sure which route to take on the BPV. Thinking about customizing the stock wrx one to work, if it works Ill let you know

[Mattheww044]

yea I would like to see what you are doing for your BPV as well. getting ready for my TMIC install but not sure which route to take on the BPV. Thinking about customizing the stock wrx one to work, if it works Ill let you know

[kimokalihi]

Thanks guys, I'll check the firewall again because I didn't see anything last night.

The AC for now is not compatible so I removed it.

Haven't thought about which BPV to use. Maybe I'll check out NASIOC and see what they've got for cheap.

[H4_Deucer]

I bet they want like $8 a cam seal too, when they're like $2.50 each online.

I was wrong. They wanted over $10 a seal and like $11 or so for the crank seal. Jesus Christ. For 4 cam seals, 1 crank seal and two drive belts they wanted $97 plus tax.

I just did 2 cam seals, crank seal, timing belt, and valve cover gaskets on my 2.2 for $115 all OEM Subaru. I love employee pricing.

[H4_Deucer]

The hose from the fuel filter goes to the first top on the manifold, the second hose is the other larger one with the screw clamp, that is your return line and then of course the last one is on the bottom. Most likely you need to bleed your clutch, if it still does it after your bleeder screw gravity bleeds freely, your slave cylinder is shot which is a common problem for subarus.

[kimokalihi]

I bet they want like $8 a cam seal too, when they're like $2.50 each online.

I was wrong. They wanted over $10 a seal and like $11 or so for the crank seal. Jesus Christ. For 4 cam seals, 1 crank seal and two drive belts they wanted $97 plus tax.

I just did 2 cam seals, crank seal, timing belt, and valve cover gaskets on my 2.2 for $115 all OEM Subaru. I love employee pricing.

Hook it up! I need new boots for my steering rack and a new heater hose on the passenger side.

[H4_Deucer]

Hook it up! I need new boots for my steering rack and a new heater hose on the passenger side.

I can get a price on the rack boots for you, but I know we wont have the heater hose in stock. Maybe we can do a trade for some of that 22T stuff.

[kimokalihi]

Maybe you could order me the reseal kit for the rack too in case it's leaking?

[H4_Deucer]

Sure I can get some prices for you monday.

[kimokalihi]

Hit up the junkyard and got a power steering pulley, nuts to finally bolt my engine mounts to the crossmember, heater hoses, couple other hoses and the pitch mount bolt I was missing for $12. I love pick a part! Sad thing is they only have about 5 legacy's left and they used to have about 12 of them a year or two ago.

Picked a couple 6' lengths of hose from autozone for $16 for the crank case ventilation and power steering hoses. Little extra just in case.

I located the missing connectors for the knock, cam and crank sensors. It was tucked under the firewall above the tranny. Unfortunately upon further inspection of said connectors I discovered the knock sensor connector is ripped off and missing and the wires for all the sensors are all brittle, broken and covered in oil. Looks like I'll have to redo them all. And by redo them all, I mean I'll hit up the junkyard again and cut that part of the harness out of the car and solder it into my harness. While I'm there I'll pick up a fuel line that I'm missing off my fuel filter to the manifold.









Finished my power steering lines. They're not bolted down to anything though. Not sure if that'll be a problem or not but I doubt it.








Here you can see my new black OBX throttle body hose and I got the black Y-Pipe too.







Finally got a new OEM belt on (mitsubishi) my alternator and power steering. Now I can install my radiator and fans!







I ran into a small problem when I was trying to install my Group N STI pitch mount. It's too long. By about 1/4" to 1/2". I have the firewall end bolted in and the hole for the other end can barely be seen in the mounting holes on the tranny mount. I can jam a punch in there and pry on it and get it maybe halfway exposed but there's no way I can get the bolt in.

Anybody else run into this problem? What the hell do I do? I can't come up with a better way to pry on this thing. When I pry on it the whole firewall flexes in. The tranny and engine are both bolted in place.

I just had an idea, do you think with the difference in heigh of the Group N STI tranny mount of about 1/4" I believe would cause the tranny to be closer to the firewall? Maybe I dunno.

[kimokalihi]

Photbucket reports that I have had nearly 205,000 picture views in the past 5 months! That's a lot. Pretty crazy, I didn't think too many people viewed my pictures. Most of that comes from this forum too I believe.

13,500 in the last 2 weeks! Averaging 35,000 hits a month.

[asc_up]

LOL! Dude, it's because you have one of the best (as in most fun to watch) threads on this entire board.

[kimokalihi]

Thanks buddy! I only wish I worked on it more often. Modern Warfare 2 makes me a bit lazy the last few months though, lol. That and the cold but it's warmed up recently which explains the recent activity.

[Mattheww044]

I should have done my igniter like yours, I took it off of the bracket completely and mounted it to that spot, I think its still getting a good ground though because I took some emery cloth to the paint so it could get a good ground.

Ever find out what your doing with your BPV set-up? I put my Sti BPV on today with no recirc, and it is SOOO loud its rediculous. Sounds good though, i might keep it for a couple days like that and then go back to recirc. It has a few small issues, but that could be because that BPV is obviously meant to be recirc'd

[kimokalihi]

Well I think if you scroll up you can see a picture of a pipe with a hose on it that's blocked off which goes over to my intake just before the turbo. It's located directly below the BPV hole in the intercooler. My plan is to either mount my WRX BPV onto the intercooler and run a hose to that pipe underneath or put that BPV aluminum adapter plate I have on and run a hose off that and put the stock BPV from my SS in there somewhere.

Problem with the WRX BPV is I'm missing the part that the hose attatches too. I'll go check NASIOC and see what it looks like with that part and see what they're going for.

Now just to make sure I understand the function of the BPV...

It lets out (recirculates into the turbo) pressure in the intercooler between shifts and is controlled by the vacuum of the intake manifold. Or is it controlled by the vacuum line off the turbo?

[kimokalihi]

OK well the WRX BPV is out of the question. Double checked it to make sure it would fit and it doesn't at all. It hits the stupid pipe on the IAC.

So I guess I have to use that adapter plate and run a hose off it to the stock BPV and then run another hose off that to the pipe below.

[Binford]

When I installed my TMIC I never mounted my igniter to anything. I actally zip-tied it to the big wire harness that's right there. I ran it that way for over a year of hard abuse at 16-18 psi.