kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

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NICO
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by NICO »

kimokalihi wrote:Not running yet but it's in. That was a workout too. Jesus. Took me about 2 hours of wrestling with the engine and lowering it and raising it and jacking up the transmission and lowering it back down. Just didn't want to mate. But I don't give up that easily so it's finally in the car and insertion is completed.
looks good so far nice work

but next time you take off the wish bone on the tranny, then jack up tranny and make small little blocks off wood to hold up tranny 3 to 4 inch up..... then when motor is in put top bolts with starter, lift it all together a very little to get special wood subaru tool's (you just made) out and lower it and your done.......... your motor will slide right in, save you 1hr 50min next time around.
1993 Subaru Legacy 44B STi 4Cam 16Valve Turbo Intercooled AWD
EJ22T, STi EJ207 DOHC, Vi-PEC (Spare Autronic) @ 426.20HP / 394.94ft lb @ 00psi
Tuned By: Franz Diebold ( DIEBOLD AUTOSPORT ) @ NVauto
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

Hmm interesting. I didn't undo the dog bone because with the Group N motor and trans mounts that dog bone was such a bitch to get lined up with the bolt hole on the trans bracket that I had to take a drill and drill the hole wider. Didn't want to go through that again so I left it bolted in. Oh it's the Group N dog bone as well.

With the engine bolted up to the trans the motor mount bolts do not line up. They're about 1/2" forward of the holes in the crossmember. Thinking about putting a pry bar on the side of those bolts and beating on it with my 3lb hammer.
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mike-tracy
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by mike-tracy »

[quote="kimokalihi"]Hmm interesting. I didn't undo the dog bone because with the Group N motor and trans mounts that dog bone was such a bitch to get lined up with the bolt hole on the trans bracket that I had to take a drill and drill the hole wider. Didn't want to go through that again so I left it bolted in. Oh it's the Group N dog bone as well.

With the engine bolted up to the trans the motor mount bolts do not line up. They're about 1/2" forward of the holes in the crossmember. Thinking about putting a pry bar on the side of those bolts and beating on it with my 3lb hammer.[/quote]


Guess I wasn't the only one to experience that issue. Not the engine bolting to the tranny, that went in after I put the throwout bearing in the right way, lol, but getting the motor mount studs into their holes in the crossmember. I unbolted the tranny crossmember to be able to slide the engine and tranny back in one piece (once it was secured by the engine lift). Don't want to drill out any holes if I don't have to. Won't mess with it again till wednesday, so we'll see.
NICO
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by NICO »

if you cant put the dog bone in firewall bolt first the tranny bolt buy hand something is wrong, not lined up right. this is after you have bolted the motor mounts to crossmember.

you guys have to hit the top of the stud on the motor mount with a huge huge flat screw driver pry bar (snap on) in to the holes. when motor stud falls into crossmember hole wiggle pry bar out then do other side.


sorry just re read your post yes hit the stud into place but at the top so you dont kill threads
Last edited by NICO on Tue Mar 22, 2011 8:22 am, edited 2 times in total.
1993 Subaru Legacy 44B STi 4Cam 16Valve Turbo Intercooled AWD
EJ22T, STi EJ207 DOHC, Vi-PEC (Spare Autronic) @ 426.20HP / 394.94ft lb @ 00psi
Tuned By: Franz Diebold ( DIEBOLD AUTOSPORT ) @ NVauto
kimokalihi
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

Hmm. Hopefully I can get them in without unbolting anything.
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

I don't think anything is wrong or misaligned. I believe it's due to using the shorter 6spd Group N tranny mount which causes the transmission to be like half an inch lower in the back which tilts the front upward and the way it pivots on it's axis brings the trans mounting bracket towards the firewall.

Basically it was next to impossible to get the bolt into the dog bone through the bracket and required drilling out the hole in the bracket wider. Makes for a pretty solid engine trans mounting.
Last edited by kimokalihi on Tue Mar 22, 2011 8:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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NICO
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by NICO »

it will work that dog bone makes everything tuff when its bolt on.
1993 Subaru Legacy 44B STi 4Cam 16Valve Turbo Intercooled AWD
EJ22T, STi EJ207 DOHC, Vi-PEC (Spare Autronic) @ 426.20HP / 394.94ft lb @ 00psi
Tuned By: Franz Diebold ( DIEBOLD AUTOSPORT ) @ NVauto
NICO
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by NICO »

lol your posting and im posting at the same time.

i have group n all over car my lines up perfect 6mt sti also.
1993 Subaru Legacy 44B STi 4Cam 16Valve Turbo Intercooled AWD
EJ22T, STi EJ207 DOHC, Vi-PEC (Spare Autronic) @ 426.20HP / 394.94ft lb @ 00psi
Tuned By: Franz Diebold ( DIEBOLD AUTOSPORT ) @ NVauto
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

6MT transmission or the 6MT group N mount, or both?
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NICO
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by NICO »

o ok i think i know what your problem is, the 6mt use's a slotted pitch stop mount for the dog bone. in your pic it looks like there is only one hole for the bolt to go in on your pitch stop mount.

i have both.

corrected my post because the 6mt and 5mt use different pitch stop mounts, which is why you siad its hard to put in.



but if you take it out when putting in and out a motor it makes like very very easy.
1993 Subaru Legacy 44B STi 4Cam 16Valve Turbo Intercooled AWD
EJ22T, STi EJ207 DOHC, Vi-PEC (Spare Autronic) @ 426.20HP / 394.94ft lb @ 00psi
Tuned By: Franz Diebold ( DIEBOLD AUTOSPORT ) @ NVauto
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

Yeah I bet it would make it easier I was just afraid of not being able to get it back in since it's such a tight fit. No problem though it's in. Now I just hope the stupid clutch release bearing will pop into the clutch the way it's supposed to. Last time it wouldn't stay in and my clutch pedal would just sit on the floor. Crossing my fingers I don't have to deal with that again. Already have a lot of work left to do including a bunch of PITA wiring to finish and repair.
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ericem
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by ericem »

make sure you push the clutch fork towards cabin to clip in the bearing before pushing the clutch pedal.
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

Alright. Thanks. I'm off to go slave away on it right now.
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by ericem »

have fun you have any help dude?
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

No help but I made progress nonetheless. I got the starter installed and repaired the knock sensor wiring and ran a compression test on it. Not looking too good. In order 1-4, 100, 0, 120, 85. I'm pretty sure number 2 was the same cylinder I blew the piston rings on but I'll have to double check that later. So that could be the valves I guess. I don't have a compressor to do a leakdown test but I do have the leakdown tester so maybe I'll take it to a friend's house and do that. What are the compression specs supposed to be on these low compression JDM WRX blocks? I think the ratio is 8:1. My forester block had 150,0, 180 and 150 if I remember correctly. The numbers from the WRX block are too low I think and the variance between the 3 that actually made compression is way too much.

Sad day. I think I'll bolt in my radiator, finish wiring up my gauges and dump a half can of sea foam into the oil, half into the tank and then run like a whole bottle through my intake manifold. Let it sit for 20 mins then drive it. Then park it and run some water through to steam clean the pistons and valves. Then run another compression test and see what happens.

Right now I'm getting DTC codes 24 and 44 which is IAC inoperative and the wastegate solenoid valve. I'll look into those when I get time.
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by ericem »

wow that sucks man I could never picture putting in a motor or transmission or both together in by myself.

About the compression numbers almost sounds like the timing belt is off?
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

It's the only way I've ever done it before. Nobody around to help me. It's not too bad just takes longer. Engine leveler helps.

I'll check the belt. Super bummed right now and I'm at work and it's my friday and even though I called in on my monday (last friday) it's been a long week.
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by ericem »

fuck to bad im not near you id help you out.

Hmm does still kind of sound like it could be a valve issue you didn't get the heads checked out ?
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

Nope I've dumped too much money into this and I'm short on funds so I decided I would just get a used shortblock, new gaskets/seals and oil pump, throw it all together and hope for the best.
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

Just took it for a spin. Seems to be running well but who knows.

Before I drove it I removed the timing covers and counted the teeth (twice) on the belt and everything is dead on. So it's not a timing problem. I didn't notice any knock light going off yet so that's good. My boost and AFR gauge relocation is only halfway finished so no gauges to monitor AFR or boost levels so I'm not going to drive it until I finish those and install my stereo.

Then I need to figure out why my IAC and Wastegate Solenoid are setting off codes...very odd. They were fine last time the car ran.
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

Unplugged the battery and finished up wiring my stereo in and my gauges. After that I started it up and drove it home and then turned it off and hooked up the diagnostic connector again and there's no codes now. Odd. I guess my IAC and Wastegate Solenoid fixed themselves. I saw the knock sensor come on a few times when I started it up and revved it a few times. That's it so far though, no light while driving. Pulls alright although I haven't gotten on it too much yet.

Image





I need to raise the front up a half inch. It's rubbing too much when I go around corners hard or turn too sharp.

Image





Front

Image





Rear

Image



Any tips on removing mold and drying out the interior? I think my trunk leaks along with my sunroof. :(




.
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by beatersubi »

[quote="kimokalihi"]
I need to raise the front up a half inch. It's rubbing too much when I go around corners hard or turn too sharp.
[/quote]
And because the suspension geometry works best at factory ride height and the more its lowered the farther the roll center moves from the CG.
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

You got me there.
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by PhyrraM »

[quote="kimokalihi"]You got me there.[/quote]\

Translation:
All other things being equal (springrates, shocks, etc) it will corner flatter and lean less at stock ride height.

Nice to see the car on the road again Kimo! Hoping for better luck this time.

You still on Rob's ECU tune? Where did you set your boost level?
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Re: kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

Post by kimokalihi »

Thanks. Boost level is OEM level I think. I think 12 lbs is the cutoff right now. I just unscrewed the MBC a lot so it's running wastegate pressure on the TD05 and I think 12 is the highest I've seen it go.

I'm using Rob's ECU still.
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