kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

Legacy777 wrote:How does that STi shifter trim fit? I was thinking about something like that....
It fit's pretty good actually. All you need to do is cut out the hole a little bit where the bolt holes in the sti trim are because they are a bit too wide. Looks great and matches that little shifter pattern piece below it pretty well too.

At that height, the boot is a bit too long though and I'm not sure how it's going to fit the bottom of the knob since it appears to be a different boot than that knob goes to. Doesn't fit the knob right and won't stay up.
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Post by kimokalihi »

My new non rusty crank pulley came in the mail today. I think it's off an STI. It's got a large rubber insert as you can see in the pictures that I noticed none of the older engines have. What's this for? Vibration dampening or something?


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Post by dropdfocus »

Why did you need to pick that up instead of a lightened pulley?
Jason
'92 LSS "Trixie" - TD04, '06 WRX TMIC, Invidia D/P & TXS U/P, 3" APEX'i CBE, custom intake, TXS MBC & BPV
Perrin LCP, WRX & H6 brakes, S/S lines, Cusco H-brace & RSTB, AGX's, Progress springs, SimplySubie fender braces
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Post by kimokalihi »

Because I was told that if I used the lightweight Group A pulleys I have with the lightweight Clutchmasters flywheel it would cause problems. I think it was Jake15 that said it would cause problems and only to use one or the other.

My crank pulleys are all nasty and caked with rust. So I wanted one that was in good condition if I was going to use the stock one.
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Post by dropdfocus »

Ah, forgot you went with the light weight flywheel. Jake is correct. The two combined together is a bad combo.
Jason
'92 LSS "Trixie" - TD04, '06 WRX TMIC, Invidia D/P & TXS U/P, 3" APEX'i CBE, custom intake, TXS MBC & BPV
Perrin LCP, WRX & H6 brakes, S/S lines, Cusco H-brace & RSTB, AGX's, Progress springs, SimplySubie fender braces
kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

This engine is one tight fit. Can't even get a socket wrench in there with a long extension. Had to use the short extension by itelf and you have to put it in the hole before putting the socket wrench on because it won't fit with it together.

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Tried removing the forester A/C compressor and bolting in my 91SS compressor because it was still hooked up and had pressure in the lines and I didn't want to remove the lines and let it all out. I ended up removing the lines anyway because I found out after removing the forester compressor that they're not the same. The forester one is smaller in size and the mounting brackets on the bottom are about 1/3 as long.

Then I though I could use the forester one but the hoses are different and they won't fit the forester compressor. Now I don't know what to do. I really want A/C for the summer time, it's nice to have.

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The 91SS is too big and doesn't clear the intake manifold.

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My new crank pulley installed. Just a touch of rust in the belt grooves. Nothing too serious.

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What's this connector for? It's right above the tranny off the engine bay harness. At first I thought it went to the connector on the top of the tranny but that one is also female and I found the male connector for that but can't find anything that goes into this female one.

There's a cam sensor that has a longer single row connector that I didn't see a connector for. But I'm not sure if it's the right year of sensor since I bought it from another member.

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Did a little test fitting with 2 of my intercoolers. Didn't bother trying the 02-03 intercooler because it was the same size as the black one.

As you can see the forester intercooler doesn't even come close to fitting. That throttle body is way too long. It would fit if I completely chopped off the outlet on the intercooler but then I obviously would have nothing to attatch to.

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The 06-07 intercooler fit's nice and snug. That throttle body still is causing a problem though. The hose comes up about 2 inches short of the turbo outlet.

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I tried the samco intercooler hose but I think it's made for the earlier intercoolers 02-05. It didn't quite fit, I had to yank on it pretty hard and tighten the clamps down before letting go because it's about 1cm too short on both ends that go on the inlet pipes.

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It sits a bit high in the back but I think I can remove that head shield bracket for the turbo that it's hitting and get it down another half inch to an inch.

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On second thought, maybe not with this stupid clutch resevoir sitting so tall.

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Ran into another problem with the hood. It doesn't close. It'll get one click but not the second click of the latch. It's hitting the coil pack. That intake manifold spacer isn't helping but it would still be hitting without it because it's not THAT tall.

Not sure what I'm doing to do about that, I guess I'll have to look at the hood and see if I can cut it where it's hitting. That's crazy.
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Popped that ball into the socket on the short shifter after adjusting it to about the length of the WRX shifter. Just a tad bit longer. Longer on the bottom means short shifts right? The shifts seem decently spaced apart.

Only problem is, the shifter is tilted pretty far back. I believe this is due to the WRX shift linkage that I installed. I believe I read a write up on it by another member on the board even though he used an STI shift linkage.

Actually now that I think of it, it may be because this shifter is mounted behind the pivot point and not between the pivot point. On top of that, the stock shifter is angled on the bottom segment and this one is straight down making me thing that may be causing my problem. The combination of those two. I guess I'll just have to see how it feels when I drive it but it's kind of weird now.

Neutral is closer to where 4th should be.

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1st

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2nd

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5th

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Reverse

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91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
evolutionmovement
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Post by evolutionmovement »

A shifter too far back is one reason I didn't like the Mini, but I like to sit closer to the wheel than most. Even people shorter than me return my car to me with the seat farther back. Don't know why someone needs to adjust a seat to drive it into a garage and back out. I never messed with peoples' settings when I used to work on cars.
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

It's pretty far back. The shifter, not the seat. I drive with my seat closer than normal now too. This past year I slowly adjusted my seat one notch at a time, one month or so at a time until I got used to it straight up and down. Much better for your posture that way.

Maybe I can bend the bottom segment at an angle like the stock WRX shifers are. I wonder if that would help. Kind of defeates the purpose of a short shifter though as far as adjustability since once I bend it, it won't be able to asjust anymore.
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91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
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Post by Legacy777 »

Going to answer a few questions/comments from your posts above...


Yeah the rubber on the newer pullies is just another type of damper.


As for your AC issue, a buddy of mine had an STi motor swap into his 98 RS. What they ended up doing was using the compressor for the STi motor, and had to weld the lines from the RS to the "head" piece of the lines that bolts to the compressor. That would be my suggestion. Have a shop cut off the head of the forester lines and weld them to the Legacy lines. It may require some tweaking, but that's the only suggestion I have.


That connector by the trans is for the O2 sensor.


As for the intercooler, you will probably need to do something similar to what I did for my AWIC install. I had to relocate/refab the ignitor bracket so it lowered it. Additionally, I got one of the offset clutch master cylinder resevoirs. Take a look at some of the pictures.
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/td05/
Josh

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

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Post by evolutionmovement »

Can the shifter be mounted reversed? I've never looked in that area on our cars, so forgive my ignorance if it sounds stupid, but I'm thinking of how the Cobras used the Mustang shifter installed backwards (at least I think those are the cars I'm thinking of). I like to sit close for posture over long distances as well, plus better sight, and greater angle of rotation on the wheel. Seems a lot of people like to look "gangsta" and lay back ducked under the door as if hiding from rival gang members and police, though really they just look like Grandma Moses unable to see over the wheel.
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

Legacy777 wrote: As for your AC issue, a buddy of mine had an STi motor swap into his 98 RS. What they ended up doing was using the compressor for the STi motor, and had to weld the lines from the RS to the "head" piece of the lines that bolts to the compressor. That would be my suggestion. Have a shop cut off the head of the forester lines and weld them to the Legacy lines. It may require some tweaking, but that's the only suggestion I have.


That connector by the trans is for the O2 sensor.


As for the intercooler, you will probably need to do something similar to what I did for my AWIC install. I had to relocate/refab the ignitor bracket so it lowered it. Additionally, I got one of the offset clutch master cylinder resevoirs. Take a look at some of the pictures.
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/td05/
Thanks, at least now I know what that connector is for. I hate having connectors that don't go to anything. I remember on my toyota pickup I had like 3 connectors under the hood just hanging there and I always wondered what they were for.

I'll see if I can move the coil pack but if I'm picturing it right, I don't think it sits much higher than that stupid pipe on top of the manifold from the IAC if at all.
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

I don't even think the offset resevoir will help because of how wide that intercooler is, I dunno. I think it just needs to be shorter.

I saw a build on here where someone cut and melted the resevoir back together with a section missing so it was shorter, it this a possibility? How do you melt it back together like that?
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91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

evolutionmovement wrote:Can the shifter be mounted reversed? I've never looked in that area on our cars, so forgive my ignorance if it sounds stupid, but I'm thinking of how the Cobras used the Mustang shifter installed backwards (at least I think those are the cars I'm thinking of). I like to sit close for posture over long distances as well, plus better sight, and greater angle of rotation on the wheel. Seems a lot of people like to look "gangsta" and lay back ducked under the door as if hiding from rival gang members and police, though really they just look like Grandma Moses unable to see over the wheel.
I'm pretty much positive that I can't mount it backwards due to it being offset. It hits the shift linkage if you try to tilt it when it's mounted backwards. I'll have to look at it again. I may have to go with the WRX shifter in the end I dunno. It's pretty tall though.

And on the topic of gangster leans, I saw a guy one time in early 90's Honda Accord one time that was so gangster leaned back that when I saw him turning through the intersection in front of me I couldn't see his head at all in the driver's window, his head was in the rear passenger window! Fuckin idiot. I busted up laughing when I saw that guy. It was ridiculous, I'm surprised he could reach the damn wheel! He must not have been able to see much he was down so low.
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91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
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Post by Legacy777 »

kimokalihi wrote:I'll see if I can move the coil pack but if I'm picturing it right, I don't think it sits much higher than that stupid pipe on top of the manifold from the IAC if at all.
Is your problem with the coil pack or the IC and it not sitting low enough due to ignitor.
Josh

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

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Post by Legacy777 »

kimokalihi wrote:I don't even think the offset resevoir will help because of how wide that intercooler is, I dunno. I think it just needs to be shorter.

I saw a build on here where someone cut and melted the resevoir back together with a section missing so it was shorter, it this a possibility? How do you melt it back together like that?
All they did was cut the bottom of the resevoir off so it was a shorter resevoir, and then you should be able to just clamp it back on.

If I still have my old resevoir, I can send it to you so you have a spare to modify.
Josh

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

That would be really cool! How much you want for it?

And about the hood problem, it's not hitting the intercooler I don't think. I'm pretty sure the coil pack is higher than the intercooler.
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Post by Legacy777 »

Just checked, and I do still have it.

Don't worry about it. Send me your address and I'll try and get it shipped out Friday when I get back in town. Hopefully that's alright...timing-wise. I'm leaving on a work trip tomorrow and will be back thursday.

Do you need just the resevoir, or do you need the cap as well?
Josh

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Post by 93forestpearl »

Looking good.


I have my FPR in place of the coil pack, which is significantly larger, and I don't have a fitment issue.





Also, the accordian shifter boost is waaaaaaay cooler than any of this new stuff. :smt019
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

What is an FPR? Fuel Pressure Regulator? Which engine are you running? I may be wrong but I swear when I looked up under the hood the coil pack was hitting.

But like I said, that 8mm intake spacer isn't helping things.
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

I found out what was hitting the hood! Everything... :(


The under-the-intake-manifold has an outlet on the top of it right next to the power steering pump resevoir and the outlet and the hose coming off of it is hitting the hood bracing. Also the coolant tank seems to be hitting it but actually I think the coil pack might not be hitting it but it's close. This was all with the intercooler out so I don't think the intercooler is hitting anything.

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What the hell does this hose go to? It's not facotory at all and it was never connected to anything when I got the engine. It's also in the way and comes up right between the two spark plug wires right at the coil and it's such a tight fit it almost doesn't fit at all.

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Post by Legacy777 »

The easiest way to tell what is hitting where is to tape some light foam or something to the hood and then when you close the hood you should see an indentation where things are hitting.

I think that hose is just a vacuum/boost reference source. I'd probably hook that up to the MAP sensor. Not sure what else it would go to.
Josh

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

I removed the everything as shown in the above couple pictures and it closed all the way except the left side was still a half a cm above the fender and wouldn't budge anymore. So it's still hitting but not as much.
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

I recieved my canadian headliner which cost me an arm and a leg the other day. Removed my stock headliner and snapped some pictures to compare the two. I don't know what year SS this headliner is from but it's definately different than mine. In a good way! :D

Mine is backed by a shitty particle board substance. Which is quite flimsy in comparison to the plastic backing the canadian headliner has. Very nice. There's some subtle differences which I'm hoping fixes my gaps problem with the canadian interior panels when I installed the manual belts.


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91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
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kimokalihi
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Post by kimokalihi »

I finished my manual belt install minus the headliner since my sunroof won't work, I'm reluctant to put the headliner back in until I figure it out.

I put the manual belt in the passenger side last winter and that's when I realized the headliner didn't match the canadian trim pieces. I wasn't sure if I was going to sell the belts and just use the automatic ones and fix my passenger side automatic belt mechanism or get a canadian headliner. So it sat like that for months until today. I was inside the back of my car today for a total of probably 4 hours. My back is not feeling very good right now.

The belts are finshed though!

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Someone has had the driver side belt retractor off before. I found about half the washers that go on those rubber bushings laying inside the pillar when I popped the trim piece off.

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The driver side belt feels dirty and won't retract unless you help it by feeding it in. Which sucks a lot. Pretty annoying especially when you spend over $100 on them.

Anyone know if this can be fixed with new springs or something? Or maybe I can buy a whole new belt and mechanism from a canadian.

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Then I decided while I was in there and back seat was out I might as well install my STI fuel pump I just got in the mail today. Opened up the wrong side first thinking it was the hole with the pump. Found this disgusting sending unit in that hole.

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I thought the driver side was pretty bad. That is, until I saw the passenger side pump and sending unit. Jesus Christ. I bet if my car were to run right now my gas gauge would not work. That is if this pump is even any good.

Should I just replace this whole thing? On both sides? Is it the same as an NA car? Same for wagon and sedan? I bet it's really expensive at the dealership so I'll probably just hit the junkyard for this one. After all, I have a clean low milage STI pump.

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Post by evolutionmovement »

I replaced my sending unit and it wasn't too bad. Can't remember the cost, though.
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
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