Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

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xise
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

I post pictures of a Toyota and my thread goes stone dead, didn't thing there were any ani Toyotites up in here.... guess I was wrong
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by Legacy777 »

No, I don't think it's that, traffic has been a little slow lately for the entire bbs.
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xise
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

Yeah it seemed a bit desolate over here for some reason. Figured i'd mention that I found a full 5 speed swap, actually a few of them from a 2000 legacy wagon and a 98 outback, at my work tucked into the back. I just never knew they were there /facepalm. Do you know the gear ratios off the top of your head? I want to use my VLSD on the legacy.
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by Legacy777 »

No, I don't know the gear ratios off the top of my head. Are you wanting the individual gear ratios or final drive ratio?
Josh

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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by 92ColoradoTurbo »

I love an old mr2! That thing is badass :-D
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xise
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

Legacy777 wrote:No, I don't know the gear ratios off the top of my head. Are you wanting the individual gear ratios or final drive ratio?
Well if you knew one you'd know the other for those Legacies. I just wanted to know because I wanted to use that 3.90 vlsd with the 5spd trans I was going to pick up. Otherwise i'd need to take the trans and diff together from the donor car...which is obviously more work i'd rather not do if I don't need to. They stopped putting the stickers on the rear diffs after a certain year....making you look shit up haha. I know I can call Subaru dealer with the trans code and they can look it up and tell you.
92ColoradoTurbo wrote:I love an old mr2! That thing is badass :-D
Thanks, I have been working too much to even really fuck around with it though. It is nice and rust free....and waaaaay slower than my Legacy haha.
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by Legacy777 »

xise wrote:They stopped putting the stickers on the rear diffs after a certain year....making you look shit up haha.
It's still there, just in a different location. Check out page two from these pdf's, they will tell you where to find the label/stamp and what some common codes are.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... f_info.pdf
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... f_info.pdf
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

Good to know, I am also pretty sure I can still use the same axles I currently have.
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

Seems like ever since I removed my rear ABS sensors my AWD is almost no existent. Does the 4EAT depend on the real wheelspeed sensors for the rear to have power?
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

I decided now was as good a time as any to finally stop procrastinating and wire up my 50/50 AWD split switch. Since my AWD to the rear has been weak, assuming that since there are no ABS sensors for the rear tjhe TCU does not know the speed of the rear wheels and never tries to send anything over 10% to the rear ( I stopped the rear tire from spinning with my bare hands today... -_-) So I wired the switch to the resistor blocks on a breadboard into between the TCU and duty solenoid C
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Aaaaaand walla!!, REAL all time AWD!! I even tried to stop the wheel with my shoe and it wizzed the rubber right off with gusto lmao.
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So here is my lift at my new job, they stuck me near the waste oil heater, not a bad deal though since I probably won't ever freeze my ass off in the winter :) That and my lift actually has locks unlike almost every other lift lol
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Speaking of lifts though...I found this. At least I know my steering joint wasn't the source of that popping now :(
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by Danny-G »

I don't think the TCU needs the wheel speed sensors. My sedan doesn't have abs and the rear wheels would get power, it was just a little dimwitted lol.
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biggreen96 wrote:well get out there and smash that geo around and get comfy.
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by Legacy777 »

Yeah, the ABS sensors won't make any difference to the TCU....there's no communication between the two.
Josh

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xise
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

Ok then, just wondering if they were part of the system. Since they aren't I really have no explanation for why power to the rear wheels has been weak......oh well I won't have this 4EAT for all that much longer anyway. I guess maybe the clutch packs are worn out...other than that I have no idea.
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1993 Legacy Sport: Sedan Sex Panther-R.I.P. @ the boneyard
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by thenicky0 »

Great project and quite informative too!
xise
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

Thanks :) I am actually thinking of stripping everything down and fixing the unibody, and rocker panels and holes in the floorboards etc. I want to actually have some pinch welds I could put the car on the lift with.

Also I am getting a REALLY strange whirring/buzzing noise when I drive the car cold to work in the morning, once it warms up the noise goes away...it is really strange and seems to be coming from behind the dash on the driver's side...anyone ever have that happen? very odd...
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by Legacy777 »

xise wrote:Also I am getting a REALLY strange whirring/buzzing noise when I drive the car cold to work in the morning, once it warms up the noise goes away...it is really strange and seems to be coming from behind the dash on the driver's side...anyone ever have that happen? very odd...
It's the speedo cable and is pretty typical for these cars. It's more or less normal and I wouldn't worry about it.
Josh

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xise
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

Normally I wouldn't, but it is incredibly loud and I am not a morning person with a longish commute to work lol. My first thought was that it was the cable, I am going to be switching to a newer model 5MT soon so does the cable gear even fit the VSS in the newer transmissions?

I was planning to grab a v3 sti cluster but that is cable driven too so would that work with the newer transmissions?

Also I wanted to know when going to the dohc EJ25D heads, do the IM sensors fit from the 22T IM, or do the 25D sensors just work with the connectors/ECU?
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by Legacy777 »

You can pull out the cable and try using some light grease on it to see if that quiets it down. You need to remove the VSS from the new transmission and swap it with the base piece that screws into the old transmission. The cable will work fine.

You would need to use a matching intake manifold for the 25D heads. I do not believe the 22t intake manifold matches up.
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xise
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

I think we actually have some cable lube we use on the flatbeds at work, maybe i'll try some of that...I hate removing that cable though, it has barely enough slack to reach the cluster while my hand is crushed between the cluster and dash.

I am going to look at one of those dohc swap threads so I can compile a list of everything.
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by kimokalihi »

Disconnect it from the shorter trans end cable and then you can pull if out with the cluster. I haven't tried this yet but I've been told it makes it much easier to get the cluster back in with cable intact. I do know that replacing the longer cable that attaches to the back of the cluster is a huge pain in the ass and I never want to do it again but had to once when the cable broke. I think my cable might be broken AGAIN because lately the speedo has not been linear with my speed. Sometimes it'll stick and hesitate before changing mph when I accelerate or decelerate. And then it will decide to catch up suddenly. I can only think that either the cable is broke but still in contact or the end of it is not seated properly.
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by Alphius »

I've found it much easier to reinstall the cable by taking off the knee panel under the dash and holding it from below while inserting the dash.

The OEM Subaru cable is barely long enough to reach the cluster easily, but I've had a couple parts store speedometer cables that seem to be longer and therefore easier to install.
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by thenicky0 »

xise wrote:Well I have fixed my gas tank filling issue, it was as simple as drilling a hole in the valve so that air could flow in both directions....had to drop the xmember and the tank a bit to access the valve.

I also repinned the connector so that it completed the fuel sender circuit, was pretty simple. I could do a comprehensive write up for how to use an 02+ WRX/STi fuel tank and pump if anyone is interested. I am just happy that now I have a working gas gauge and can actually FILL my tank....I am less happy that I am getting horrendously bad gas mileage....:(

Would you be able to tell me what's involved in this? I was under the impression it was plug and play after messing with the valve and sorting out the evap lines? I would be extremely GRATEFUL for this seeing as how my car is currently at the shop waiting for my 02 WRX tank...

Mostly I need help regarding what exactly you did with the wiring and how you sorted out the lines.

I know #3 obviously goes to the fuel filler neck. I need help regarding which is the other line that goes to the neck. Then I assume the rest of them all have to do with the evap system. This install is unique in that since it's going into a FWD. I'm teeing off the remaining three evap lines into one. Despite the fact that I've studied the diagrams over and over, I can't seem to figure out which is the other line that goes to the neck and which ones I need to tee off. Can anyone help me? I need this car fixed yesterday!

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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

I have no prob getting the cable back in, I used a small cats paw pry bar to hold the connector end in place and pushed the cluster on to the cable itself, it was still a pain in the ass but after I took the cluster off the 3rd time I got everything connected in only a few minutes.

You pry on the wider connector end to make the cable reach the max end of it's travel and reach your hand in between to guide the cluster onto the cable until it clicks into place, this is the method I figured out works the best....mind you the AT cable is shorter than the MT one so if it works for me it DEFINITELY should work easy as pie for a MT cable.
thenicky0 wrote:
xise wrote:Well I have fixed my gas tank filling issue, it was as simple as drilling a hole in the valve so that air could flow in both directions....had to drop the xmember and the tank a bit to access the valve.

I also repinned the connector so that it completed the fuel sender circuit, was pretty simple. I could do a comprehensive write up for how to use an 02+ WRX/STi fuel tank and pump if anyone is interested. I am just happy that now I have a working gas gauge and can actually FILL my tank....I am less happy that I am getting horrendously bad gas mileage....:(

Would you be able to tell me what's involved in this? I was under the impression it was plug and play after messing with the valve and sorting out the evap lines? I would be extremely GRATEFUL for this seeing as how my car is currently at the shop waiting for my 02 WRX tank...

Mostly I need help regarding what exactly you did with the wiring and how you sorted out the lines.

I know #3 obviously goes to the fuel filler neck. I need help regarding which is the other line that goes to the neck. Then I assume the rest of them all have to do with the evap system. This install is unique in that since it's going into a FWD. I'm teeing off the remaining three evap lines into one. Despite the fact that I've studied the diagrams over and over, I can't seem to figure out which is the other line that goes to the neck and which ones I need to tee off. Can anyone help me? I need this car fixed yesterday!
I labeled my hoses with tape when I took them off and looked at a bunch of evap diagrams to figure it out, the valve I drilled the hole in was the one under that 3 bolt canister in the dead center of the tank with the line coming out of it, just drill right through the bottom of it, as far as those other evap hoses go either 2 or 4 is going to be the vapor return line from the charcoal canister and the other is a vent return for the filler neck so it doesn't vapor lock and stop filling.

I want to say that 2 comes from the charcoal canister and vents to the filler neck, and that 4 and 5 are both vents for the tank to allow air to escape and fuel to enter and displace the air being vented out of the filler neck above the check ball. SO you should be able to T 2,4 and 5 together into the filler neck vent and be OK.

As far as the wires for the fuel gauge are concerned it may be pinned differently for your FWD harness, I just compared an 02 STi diagram to my 93 SS one and had to repin 2 wires to a different spot, literally just moved the pins over to the right spot and that was it..just remember subarus use a dual stage resistor so it has to go through both or it will only read 1/2 a tank when it is really full, OR full when you only have 1/2 a tank depending on which resistor is in the circuit.ot sure exactly which pins I changed i'd have to find the printouts I had written on. IT CAN BE DONE THOUGH lol.

A word of advise, there is a vent solenoid on the 02+ Subaru tanks that will have no place it can go, it has a connector that has no plug to attach to it, don't be like me and put and remove the solenoid and insert a small bolt into the hole to plug it, it will make it so you can fill up full blast at the pump. I always have to pull the handle slightly less than all the way to fuel up at less than full speed....it sucks.
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1991 Legacy L Wagon: Sex Panther II
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by thenicky0 »

...as far as those other evap hoses go either 2 or 4 is going to be the vapor return line from the charcoal canister and the other is a vent return for the filler neck so it doesn't vapor lock and stop filling.

I want to say that 2 comes from the charcoal canister and vents to the filler neck, and that 4 and 5 are both vents for the tank to allow air to escape and fuel to enter and displace the air being vented out of the filler neck above the check ball. SO you should be able to T 2,4 and 5 together into the filler neck vent and be OK.

Thanks so much for your help man, I really appreciate it, you have no idea. Here was my logic: because an AWD Legacy tank has a fuel filler hose, fuel neck vent hose, and three evap hoses, I could simply tee off the 3 evap hoses to go into my canister and hook up the remaining hoses.

What do I do with hose 1, should that be going to the charcoal canister?

Will filling up be ok with teeing 2, 4, and 5 into the neck?

Seems like I could also plug up hose 1 correct? At that point, which line should go to the canister?

I wanna get this tank teed off and modified today so that my mechanic can put it in and I can have a car!

Edit:

Well, I pulled the trigger and teed off lines 2, 4, and 5 to go to the neck. Made an adapter for line 1 to go to the charcoal canister. After a $125 WRX tank and $30 of fittings, hoses, and couplings, the only thing left to do is pray it works.

Image

Will update when I get the car back...
xise
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Re: Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

Post by xise »

I believe that small hose, #1 as you have it labeled had a small vent solenoid attached to it if I remember correctly, it has an electrical plug and the other end went to a rear mounted charcoal canister that the GD chassis uses, you can literally leave it as it is, this is the hose that causes mine to not fill slower than normal.

The air normally escapes during fill up from the tank through that short hose, through the solenoid then through an open to atmosphere vane in the charcoal canister...this routing is meant to prevent moisture from reaching the tank. Also the solenoid acts as a check valve and to electronically purge when tank pressure gets to high.

You could cap it off to prevent moisture but it will slow venting of the tank and cause slower fill ups
2004 Impreza 2.5RS Fränkenpreza Daily Driver
1993 Legacy Sport: Sedan Sex Panther-R.I.P. @ the boneyard
1991 Legacy L Wagon: Sex Panther II
2005 Outback XT Turbo grocery-getter Wife's Daily Driver
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