dankberries 1993 Legacy SS

Information about specific car builds.

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dankberries
Second Gear
Posts: 506
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2011 5:09 am
Location: Dirt Roads, Colorado

Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS

Post by dankberries »

Progress has been at a complete Holt the last few months. I've been working 7 days a week 80+ hrs a week, I just haven't had the time, energy, or a clear mind to continue forth with this project. Fortunately I'm in no rush, the legacy is still driven daily and has been very reliable. Ive put about 40,000 miles on the car since October, she continues to purr like a kitten.
Soon things will slow down at work and I can get back at it. Ultimately the goal is to be finished before the snow comes.
I plan to have a major update accordingly when things are finished. Making some good money right now and I've been collecting a nice plethora of goodies. The future of this legacy is going to be quite awesome!

I ended up getting a break from work today and managed to piece a few things together, it felt really good, almost therapeutic to work on the engine again.
Here is a sneak peek of where I'm at so far before a major update in the future:
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Last edited by dankberries on Tue Aug 16, 2016 6:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
93 impreza rally muffin
93 legacy ss Tarmac Terminator
89 Nissan 240sx sr20
90 Nissan 240sx 2jz
killajamal wrote:Dank is actually German for "silly term which the kids have come up with to describe exceptionally choice marijuana.''
mike-tracy
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 5000
Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2009 7:52 am
Location: Des Moines, Wa

Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS

Post by mike-tracy »

Geez man, that thing looks brand new! I hear you on the crazy work schedule - there's a mad push towards the end of every construction project, as many hours as the body can handle it feels like. I just got done with the latest job like that.
1992 Legacy SS 5mt, build in progress
Josh Colombo wrote: Mon Jan 14, 2002 10:23 am Wait....I'm confused now.
Pntaste4evr99
Winestone Cowboy
Posts: 341
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2015 4:12 am
Location: Lake Stevens WA

Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS

Post by Pntaste4evr99 »

I think u missed ONE spot of grime on ONE of the water pump bolt heads lol
94 Winestone SS 5MT Rob 550 20g. (Pickle)
Original WA car with 460k miles and climbing
dankberries
Second Gear
Posts: 506
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2011 5:09 am
Location: Dirt Roads, Colorado

Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by dankberries »

Tis the time for a major update! Hardly know where to begin, it's been quite the ever evolving project. I've changed my mind many different times and continually went in different directions. From what I thought I wanted to where it is now don't even exist on the same page. LOTS of TIME, MONEY, LABOR, and THINKING went into making this what it is today! Hope you guys enjoy!

So as I last updated this journal I was assembling the engine, I will pick up where I left off with photos and details:

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Although I don't have pictures of it I switched the pick up tube with a killerB Motorsports. At a future time I for sure have plans for the killerb pan or possibly a dry sump system:

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STi oil pan, block heater, parts for oil cooler, revised rear oil plate and hardware:

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____________________________________________________________________

Wiseco MLS head gaskets .051 and ARP head studs:

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That kind of sums up the block and heads from my previous posts to now. I essentially used new New Subaru OEM parts every where, oil pump, water pump, oil cooler, o-rings exc.

____________________________________________________________________

--WIRING

Now I will cover some of the wiring work I did.
I wanted to make a brand new engine wiring harness, so I set out on a mission to acquire all new plugs, pins, terminals, and the highest quality wiring.
It took me a long time to find alot of the plugs existent in the 1993 legacy SS harness. I discovered that sumitomo was a major manufacturer of many of the plugs found on the legacy, I ended up finding a parts catalog, unfortunately all in Japanese, but at least with pictures. I skimmed through a 1000 pages trying to find each plug. It was daunting to say the least. I did however find most everything, although found that I couldn't order a single plug from sumitomo directly, so I took the parts #'s and began searching the internet for vendors that would sell me one and not a box of a 1000.
In the end I acquired most and for the ones I didn't I was able to improvise with something else or similar.

To understand how the OEM harness worked and was assembled I first acquired a harness locally and began dissecting it. I would then use it as mirror of what I should make.

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The wire I picked was of extreme quality. The most expensive wire I've ever purchased. Per the manufacturer description:

"Our high-temperature wire is stranded tinned copper conductor insulated with extruded ETFE Tefzel that provides outstanding thermal, physical, and electrical properties. Tefzel insulated wire is in particular outstanding for it's resistance to oil, oxidation, heat, sunlight and flame; and also it's ability to remain flexible at low temperature. They have excellent resistance to ozone, water, alcohol, gasoline, acids, alkalis, aromatic hydrocarbons and solvents."

This was perhaps my favorite thing of the whole swap. It came out incredibly nice, and will leave me worry free of wiring issues .


*One note, I added 2in. Of extra length to each wire to make things easier when plugging in, as I found the original harness was very tight, and also had ideas of a different manifold setup that would possibly need the extra length.

In this next phase, before looming the harness, I left it bare so I could determine how I wanted it routed.
I acquired a JDM ej20h manifold from a fellow member Maciek (macipussy) and wasn't sure if there would be differences in wiring routing.

I began testing wiring routing with the newly acquired manifold. I would like to also note that I painted the manifold but didn't have before/after pics of that.

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I also took the coils off of my WRX engine and made this a gd WRX COP conversion. I would now make this harness a permanent COP setup by taking the powering wires used for the wasted spark setup and splitting them to the coils. 4 separate coil signal wires where added and terminated at a new 4 pin plug.

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Wiring harnesses completed, wrapped in gold heat reflective tape:

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____________________________________________________________________

--REVERSE INTAKE MANIFOLD

Now in this next phase, this is when my direction of thought for this build really began to change.
I made the decision to reverse my intake manifold. Doing this brought up alot of issues to sort out and took creativity and thinking.

I had planned on running the intake under the manifold and the fuel lines provided with the manifold would have aloud me to do so, but when reversing it that would no longer be possible.

Some mock up pictures:

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Loss of under manifold intake clearance:

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Also acquired with the manifold was an ej20g TB. Before I got to ahead of myself on using the 20g throttle body I was concerned that it was a 3 wire tps, and wasn't sure how to over come that. Long story short, after lots of research I made a switch on my gas pedal to remedy the missing idle switch from the 20g TPS.

Things were looking pretty good but I was having clearance issues with 20g TB over the alternator, as I was set on lowering the alternator rather than relocating it to the AC location. I tried mocking up the ej22 TB and it was a little better but came with more issues other than alternator clearance. The IAC would interfere with the ej22 throttle cables as they are the opposing side as the JDM setup. Also the ej22 TPS and throttle linkage would have interference with the manifold itself. The only way around it would be flipping the TB upside down and I refused that to be my answer.
I was stuck on deciding between two crap options. The real kicker that made my final decision was measuring the inside diameters of the two TB's and finding out the ej22 was bigger. So that was my final answer, going to make the usdm TB work on a JDM manifold.

I started answering some of the clearance issues by making a TB spacer. This was a fun project and came out perfect. I used my friends mini-mill with stepper motors controlled by a CNC computer program. Basically a mini CNC machine.

Making a throttle body spacer video:

Throttle Body Spacer Video

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Next was to answer the TB to IAC interference issues. I started devising a way to make a plate with a tube that could relocate it's location. I don't have pictures of this but did in fact make it. I made a plate cut to the shape of IAC location on the manifold and welded a tube on it that made a bend down under the manifold and had intentions of it being mounted somewhere at the back side.

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I would also make a plate with the addition of a pipe on it for the IAC port. Pictures of me making measurements to come up with a design:

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____________________________________________________________________

--FUEL

At this time I thought I concluded the manifold setup. I then moved into answering the under manifold intake clearance issues.
The fuel lines for the ej20h manifold, no matter the bending I did, they would not work in the reversed position. I tried ej22 and ej25 lines and still couldn't get anything to fit right.

This is when I decided I needed to make my own fuel line setup.
I made the jump into stainless braided lines with AN fittings. This also opted me to go ahead and make this a parallel setup instead of serial.

I chose to use -6AN Russell stainless braided line and fittings.
Unfortunately I'm lacking pictures of this setup, but I used 4 90° swivel -6N hose ends at the rails, stainless line cut to equal legths on each end leading 6AN straight ends connected to two Y blocks, one for feed and one for return.

I decided I needed upgraded fuel rails at this point. I found a company that makes high flow rails for the ej20k and mount to phase 1 manifolds. They work for the sidefeed injectors I was planning to use and also came with 6AN fittings at the ends, which would work great with the fuel line setup. For injectors I was planning on STi 550's.

I had these beautiful fuel rails and gross injector caps that looked horrible on the new rails, so I polished them:

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Also seen in the above picture, I upgraded almost every bolt on the manifold/car to stainless Allen heads.

____________________________________________________________________

--ALTERNATOR

Next I will discuss a little more about the alternator. I ended up using a WRX alternator, based on where the wiring connections were, made it a better choice, plus it's an upgrade from the old legacy alternator.

In order to make this work in the factory location I had to make modifications to the alternator bracket and the tensioner on the power steering pump.
I needed the alternator to sit as low as possible. In order to do this I ground a good amount of material away from the lower part of the bracket, until the point of gaining almost an extra inch of lower clearance. Because of dropping it so low , the tensioner also needed to be lowered to match the distance.
Where the tensioner locking bolt slides through a Groove on the PS pump, that groove was drilled out lower to match the alternator height. Unfortunately, I don't have pictures of this detailed process.

Now that I had a good lowering distance I needed to come up with a belt that would work. I measured the distance around the pulleys and headed to the parts store to finding something. I picked 4 different sized belts, trying different things. The goal was to find the tightest belt at the lowest distance. Once I found what I needed I returned all the belts and had to special order a belt from gates. I picked the gates racing belt, stronger, lasts longer, less flex, and looks cool in blue. Expensive though, at $60 for that belt.

*Note, Because I wanted the under manifold inlet, I used the PS pump from my WRX engine which has the Reservoir externally mounted from the pump.

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I ended up machining off the coolant pipes on the TB for more clearance:

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____________________________________________________________________

--GO FAST BITS

In this next phase, shit really starts getting crazy. I changed plans entirely and decided I was going to really step things up from the original plans.

I picked up some dw950cc injectors and a tomei big diaphragm FPR:

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I was working 80+ hrs a week, 7 days a week. The money was there, so I went all out.


I ordered a JDM v8 STi drive train with 30000 miles on it. 6speed, shifter, flywheel, clutch, starter, driveshaft, r180 diff, subframe, control arms, trailing arms, sway bars, axles, hubs, brembos, rotors, DCCD, brake cables. Almost the entire underneath of an STi.

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Ordered an exedy twin disc:

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Haltech elite 1500 stand alone ECU w/ ej20g patch harness:

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And decided to order a Perrin rotated turbo kit with a Garrett gtx3582r turbo:

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I picked the GTX series turbo over the GT because it spools about 1000rpm quicker. This gtx3582r has about the same spool time as a gt3076r. It's a huge turbo... But go big or go home right?!
turbo is rated between 450hp-800hp..

Good thing I don't live in California ;-) :

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The kit included a Perrin high flow intake filter, two cold air intake pipe options, one for MAF and one without MAF, both powder coated wrinkle black, SS turbo oil feed lines, one for Sti(straight bolt in) and wrx(banjo), turbo smart 45mm ewg with vband flange, Perrin up pipe, rotated down pipe, an assortment of hoses and fittings for coolant/vacuum, gaskets, clamps, bolts, Perrin pyroshield, and couplers. Pretty complete and cool kit to get you going.

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Ordered Perrin big tube equal length headers, rated for a minimum of 500hp:

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____________________________________________________________________

--INSTALLATION/MOCK UP

Some installation and mock up pictures:

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The idea of having the intake going under the manifold had now changed to having the intercooler hot pipe come under the manifold. I started coming up with ideas:

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____________________________________________________________________

--FUEL LINE PT.2

I realized I was going to start having issues with room under the manifold once I added lines for the center crank vent, valve cover breathers and wiring. I also realized that while the 90° AN fittings for fuel would work, it could be better if I found fittings with a more aggressive angle.

I purchased PTFE stainless braided lines for my PS pump. Through research I knew that PTFE was a much higher quality line over standard braided line for many reasons, but one thing I noticed was the outer diameter was smaller than standard line when comparing 6AN PTFE to standard 6AN. Because of this and needing as much room as I could possibly make under the manifold, I decided to change my fuel line setup to fragola 6AN PTFE stainless braided line and use 4 130° PTFE swivel hose ends for each fuel rail end.

It sucked making a double purchase here to redo the fuel line setup, especially that PTFE line and fittings are very expensive, but it was worth it to do the job right and I figured I could recycle the old lines else where.

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____________________________________________________________________

--PHENOLIC SPACERS/TIMING BELT

It was becoming apparent that my idea for having a line come under the manifold for the relocation of the IAC would also become an issue of room, further more I realized that routing the throttle cables would be an issue. So it was back to the drawing board for the manifold.

One thing to assist in the issue was picking up some grimmspeed 8mm phenolic spacers, but I still would need to do more.

Pictured are the grimmspeed 8mm phenolic spacers, also Gates racing timing belt:

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____________________________________________________________________

--INTAKE MANIFOLD TRANSFORMATION

After some thought I came up with the idea of drilling and tapping a hole on the manifold. I noticed that this manifold had a plug on it located at the end of IAC air channel.

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I removed the plug and drilled and tapped it to 3/8npt:

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Now for the epic transformation of this manifold. With the new tapped hole for IAC and and no longer needing a bunch of mounting points on the manifold, I wanted to clean this thing up.

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____________________________________________________________________

--POLISHED THROTTLE BODY

I couldn't have a shiny manifold and a dull throttle body, so I plugged away at the TB, all the way down to the return springs:

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I didn't exactly calculate the hours put into the polishing but I would estimate at least 50 hours. It was alot of hard work and close attention to detail.

I purchased an A/C tig welder which would help with this project. I needed to close up the exposed hole from the old IAC inlet, and also would fabricate and weld on a new tab for the throttle cable to hook up too. I welded shut the old brake booster port and welded a couple divots that where existent from the old IAC port. Ground and polished to the point of never knowing they existed.

I drilled and tapped a new port for the brake booster on the correct side of the manifold. I also made a new port on the correct side for the PCV valve, and an extra 3/8npt port in case I didn't like using the port on top of the manifold for the IAC.

____________________________________________________________________

--FINALIZED IAC RELOCATION

Back on the subject of the IAC, I came up with a plan of using a 90° swivel 3/8npt to 8AN fitting off the manifold, leading to a 8AN stainless braided line, leading to a vibrant one way ckeck valve with 8AN male ends each side, leading to another 8AN line, ending at the IAC where I made a plate mounted to the IAC outlet with an 8AN fitting right at the center. The IAC would now be relocated at the firewall where the igniter was once located. Epic.

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____________________________________________________________________

--VALVE COVERS

I drilled/tapped the 25d valve covers and used Russel twist-lok hose and fittings for the center crank vent. I removed the original 90° fitting on the center vent and swapped it with a straight fitting that I took off of a valve cover from single cam 22t head, it fit perfectly. This allowed me to then use a T fitting off of that to connect the hoses off the valve covers.

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____________________________________________________________________

--RADIUM ENGINEERING SURGE TANK

One thing about the legacy is it has a horrible fuel slosh problem. If I ever had a half tank or less and hit corners hard I would get fuel cut. I couldn't have that problem anymore with this kind of setup so I decided to purchase a radium engineering fuel surge tank. I picked the model that utilizes the new walbro 400lph fuel pump.

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Custom mounting bracket made:

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____________________________________________________________________

--UNCONVENTIONAL THANKSGIVING

Over the Thanksgiving holiday I swapped everything over. Started Wednesday night and finished Sunday morning. Probably the biggest push I've made in my car working days, especially doing it all by myself.

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Such a beautiful clutch:

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Sunday morning I loaded the car onto the trailer to take to my buddy at MCG, their we would fabricate intercooler piping, make some touch ups, and get the ECU dialed in.

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I could no longer use my winter wheels, LGT snowflakes with the brembos, so I picked up a new set of enkeis to use for winter(pictured above). Wrapped in brand new studded general altimax Arctic (hands down my favorite winter tire).

____________________________________________________________________

--INTERCOOLER

For the intercooler piping I was able to recycle all the pipes from my old setup. Made lots of pie cuts and welds. With the already flipped intercooler I did and the new reversed manifold setup, this was going to be an even shorter pipe setup.
The goal was to clock the turbo in a way that would send my hot pipe right under the manifold. The hot pipe would then have to bend, clearing the PS pump, and take a path to the intercooler inlet located just below the head light.
The cold pipe would need to make a bend to clear the alternator, but as close as possible to the alternator for hood clearance, then a straight shot down to a 90° below the headlight to the intercooler outlet.
Because the turbo had 2.5in. Outlet off the compressor I decided to make the hot pipe 2.5in. This made things tight, 2in. Would have been much easier, but I got it figured out with some sweet angles.

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The cold pipe to throttle body was a bit tricky. I was trying to use a straight 2.75 to 2.5 reducing coupler, but the straitness of it and the angle of the throttle wasnt giving me the bend I needed to clear the hood. I tried cutting the coupler to make it more angled, and it worked but I thought it looked less appealing so tried finding something else.
I special ordered a 30° 2.75 to 2.5in. Coupler and got what I was looking for. As seen in the above pictures the black coupler.

I picked up aluminum vband couplers for the piping but decided to hold off for a later date to get those welded on.

I did end up cutting out a little of the under side of the hood to help with clearance for the throttle body:

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____________________________________________________________________

--POWER STEERING

Fragola performance 6AN PTFE stainless braided power steering hose for return/feed with metric to AN adapters.
New OEM power steering reservoir with custom made mounting bracket, this will eventually be replaced with a custom made tank featuring AN fittings:

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____________________________________________________________________

--CUSTOM EXPANSION TANK

After researching some designs, made this custom expansion tank out of diamond plate. It features a baffle. The head was custom milled out of a block of aluminum, all the measurements for the head where mimicked off the WRX tank so could still use the same cap:

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____________________________________________________________________

--CRANKCASE VENTILATION

I don't have pictures of the inside of my catch can but it's a modified eBay can. Took ideas from others I've seen with baffles and tube. Kind of experimental at this point, not sure if it will be permanent.
Only the back crankcase vent is hooked to the can, then to pre turbo. I did decide to delete the PCV valve.
The heads are vented straight to pre turbo, and I'm experimenting with a setup similar to Josh (legacy777) with foam filter material to help coalesce the oil vapor. Time will tell if I stick with this venting configuration.

____________________________________________________________________

--INTAKE

I decided against using the Perrin intake setup as I didn't like the reduction from a 4in. To 3in. Inlet. I picked up a 4in. aluminum pipe and cut and welded to my desired location and welded fittings on for the crank/head vents.
I was super stoked on using the Perrin high flow filter, at first glance it appeared it could be used with 4in. Pipe but upon further looking it was not. I picked an AEM filter for 4in. Instead.

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____________________________________________________________________

--PLX GAUGE

I'm not too big on having lots of gauges in the car especially pillar mounted as I find it difficult to look into the light when making aggressive left hand turns in the canyon.

I decided to try this PLX DM-100 gauge that's O.LE.D and capable of displaying up to 4 parameters on a single screen. The gauge is touch screen, super easy to see/read, and can display parameters in digital, analog, and graph form. It's also capable of interfacing with an obd2 port and can display obd2 parameters. I love everything about it except that it requires an individual sensor module for each sensor wanted, thus taking up more space. Picture of sensor modules:

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____________________________________________________________________

--HALTECH/TUNING

Getting the haltech ECU wired in was a breeze with the use of the haltech ej20g patch harness. I only had a few wires to add for the IAT sensor and wideband. Aside from that just making the 22t harness conversion to 20g.

Haltech made me a base map good for getting the car running, this was definitely helpfull and easier then starting from the ground up. The map they made was very conservative and safe, more or less just good to get you started and to a tuner. Once the car was running I was able to make some needed adjustments for better operation.

So far I'm very impressed with the software, it can do just about everything imaginable. Haltech has excellent customer service, and has helped me with many questions. Between them having a North American and Australian contact, I can speak with a tech at almost anytime.

So far I have just done some road tuning, focusing on drivability and target AFR ranges. Boost pressure is set to its lowest point of 14psi, I've set the Rev limiter to 5000, and I haven't started pulling any timing yet. Trying to keep things conservative and safe through its beginning stages until I can get on the dyno.
Jan. 7 was the soonest date I could get scheduled for dyno time, very excited for that, until that point I'm just going to keep the tune how have it and try and continue building knowledge of the software.

____________________________________________________________________


--CURRENT MODS LIST

--ENGINE
93' ej22t short block
Wiseco 98mm pistons
Eagle rods
Polished low miles ej22 crank(#3 thrust)
Balanced & Weight Matched Rotating Assembly
ACL STD Race Bearings (mains & rods)
97' ej25d DOHC Heads
Supertech nitrate coated intake valves
Supertech nickel econal exhaust valves
Supertech valve guides
04' STi valve components (springs, seats, retainers, collets)
Wiseco .051 MLS Head Gaskets
ARP Head Studs
KBM oil pickup tube
Port & Polished heads
Polished and Modified JDM Intake Manifold
Reversed Intake Manifold
Remote IAC relocation
Polished & Modified ej22 Throttle Body
04' STi New OEM Oil Cooler
Gates Racing Timing Belt
New built Engine Harness
Grimmspeed 8mm Phenolic Spacers
Torque Solutions Motor Mounts

-- FUEL
Phase 1 Sidefeed High Flow Fuel Rails
Deatswerks 950cc Injectors
Custom Parallel Fuel Line Setup
Fragola Performance PTFE Stainless Braided Line
Russel/Fragola AN Fittings
Tomei Big Diaphragm Adjustable FPR
Summit Racing High Flow Fuel Filter
Radium Engineering Fuel Surge Tank
Walbro 255lph In-Tank Pump
Walbro 400lph In-Surge Tank Pump

-- DRIVETRAIN/SUSPENSION
JDM v8 STi 6 Speed Transmission
JDM v8 STi R180 differential
JDM v8 STi rear subframe
JDM v8 STi Lateral Links, Trailing Arms, Sway Bars
JDM v8 STi Axles, Hubs/Knuckles
Exedy Twin Disc Clutch
Torque Solutions Transmission Mounts
Torque Solutions Short shifter
Torque Solutions Shifter Bushing Kit
MAPDCCD Dccd Controller
SS Clutch Line
93' Legacy AT Driveshaft
Moog Ball Joints
KYB AGX Adjustable Struts
Paranoid Fabrication 3/4in. Saggy Butt Spacers

-- BRAKES/WHEELS
JDM v8 STi Brembo Front & Rear Calipers
SS Braided Front & Rear Brake Lines
EBC Bluestuff Brake Pads
07' STi BBS Wheels painted Gold 5x114.3 17x8
Sumitomo HTR ZIII 245/40/17 Summer Tires
Enkei Kojin 17x8 5x114.3
General Altimax Arctic Studded 225/45/17
5x100 to 5x114.3 Adapters


-- EXTERIOR
Oct.2015 Paint Job Imperial Jade Green w/ Gold Metallic Flake
EDM Glass Headlights w/ Auto Levlers
JDM Glass Fog Lights w/ Custom Brackets
Legacy Cold Weather Package Heated Mirrors
EDM Headlight Washers
LED Exterior Light Conversion
Custom L.E.D City Lights
JDM Side Skirts
Rally Armor Mud Flaps

-- INTERIOR
OEM leather back seats swapped for SS black cloth seats
2002 wrx front seats with legacy CWP heated seat elements
Canadian HVAC control w/ recirculation & No AC
Canadian non-saggy sun visors
Pioner Deck w/ bluetooth
4 JL audio speakers
JL Audio W2 subwoofer
2.5in. cubby din
400w 120v power inverter
Alpine amp 125w max per
Lucky fishing lure in ashtray
Fishing pole in the back


-- SUPPORTING MODS
PLX Devices DM-100 Multiguage w/ AFR, BOOST/VAC, FLUID TEMP, FLUID PRESS., EGT
Haltech Elite 1500 ECU w/ Patch Harness
Custom Oil Catch Can
Custom Coolant Expansion Tank
Custom Flipped Front Mount Intercooler w/ Custom Piping
Custom 4in. Short Intake
GD WRX COP conversion
WRX Alternator
WRX PS Pump and Reservoir
PTFE Stainless Braided PS Lines
Perrin Rotated Turbo Kit
Perrin Big Tube Equal Length Headers
Tsudo Axel Back Exhaust
Garrett GTX3582r Turbo
Custom Stainless Braided Turbo lines Coolant/Oil
Turbosmart Hypergate 45mm EWG
HKS Atmospheric Bypass Valve
Last edited by dankberries on Wed Jan 04, 2017 3:23 am, edited 6 times in total.
93 impreza rally muffin
93 legacy ss Tarmac Terminator
89 Nissan 240sx sr20
90 Nissan 240sx 2jz
killajamal wrote:Dank is actually German for "silly term which the kids have come up with to describe exceptionally choice marijuana.''
dankberries
Second Gear
Posts: 506
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2011 5:09 am
Location: Dirt Roads, Colorado

Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS

Post by dankberries »

--MISC. NOTES/COMMENTS/PICTURES

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Perrin filter:

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Tsudo Exhaust:

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New Depo corner lights:

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Russell black and gold AN Fittings:

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Using the oscilloscope to track down issues. Cam and crank signals. Had issues with cam/crank trigger edge settings in Haltech, ended up being a "ground reference" that should have been enabled:

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Old weathered radiator top:

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Polished radiator top looking new again:

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--VIDEOS

Exhaust Clip
Gauge Sweep
Throttle Body Spacer
Last edited by dankberries on Wed Jan 18, 2017 5:14 am, edited 9 times in total.
93 impreza rally muffin
93 legacy ss Tarmac Terminator
89 Nissan 240sx sr20
90 Nissan 240sx 2jz
killajamal wrote:Dank is actually German for "silly term which the kids have come up with to describe exceptionally choice marijuana.''
dankberries
Second Gear
Posts: 506
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2011 5:09 am
Location: Dirt Roads, Colorado

Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by dankberries »

Reserved space!
93 impreza rally muffin
93 legacy ss Tarmac Terminator
89 Nissan 240sx sr20
90 Nissan 240sx 2jz
killajamal wrote:Dank is actually German for "silly term which the kids have come up with to describe exceptionally choice marijuana.''
mike-tracy
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 5000
Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2009 7:52 am
Location: Des Moines, Wa

Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by mike-tracy »

This is some seriously impressive stuff you're working on Sir!
1992 Legacy SS 5mt, build in progress
Josh Colombo wrote: Mon Jan 14, 2002 10:23 am Wait....I'm confused now.
PhyrraM
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by PhyrraM »

Nice job. It all looks great. I'm particularly interested in the harness work. I've also been researching a way to build new harnesses. Do you mind sharing the research on parts numbers and sources?

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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by dankberries »

PhyrraM wrote:Nice job. It all looks great. I'm particularly interested in the harness work. I've also been researching a way to build new harnesses. Do you mind sharing the research on parts numbers and sources?

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Thank you, and Yes.
In a separate post/topic I will outline all the details of information regarding my wiring research. I'm sure it would be helpful for a few people.
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by Legacy777 »

WOW!!!


You have done some amazing work with this setup, it's just awesome! I'm very curious to see what kind of power you make when everything gets broken in and tuned.

Just curious, you mentioned a custom LED city light setup. What exactly did you do, as I was thinking of doing something with my city lights as well?

Thanks!
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by dankberries »

Legacy777 wrote: Just curious, you mentioned a custom LED city light setup. What exactly did you do, as I was thinking of doing something with my city lights as well?
Refer to page 3 of this journal.
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by chanley2010 »

This is bad ass !
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by Legacy777 »

dankberries wrote:
Legacy777 wrote: Just curious, you mentioned a custom LED city light setup. What exactly did you do, as I was thinking of doing something with my city lights as well?
Refer to page 3 of this journal.

Thanks!

Looks like I similar questions back then, but forgot I asked them ;)
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by dankberries »

Little update,
Made a nice break through last night in an issue I've been having.
On Jan. 7 I got on the dyno but was unable to complete my tune. When going to set the RPM limiter, the car was unable to rev past 5800rpm.
Long story short, after weeks of troubleshooting and nearly tearing the whole car apart, the problem had been found. Haltech has been helping me since the beginning of the issue and yesterday they finally discovered an issue in their software.
A quick firmware update and got my rpm Working.
In the last month I've decided to pick up some 2200cc injectors and a haltech fuel composition sensor. Will tune for ethanol.
I believe my goal right now will be seeing what the ej25d cams can put down, then, already in the works, upgraded cams, then see what this phase 1 setup as whole can put down.
Jan.7 on the dyno the car made 300hp @ 12psi 5800rpm.
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by ride_child »

holy shit dood, you are crushing it!!
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by Legacy777 »

Very nice numbers, what was your torque?

Did Haltech elaborate on what the software issue was?
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by dankberries »

Legacy777 wrote:Very nice numbers, what was your torque?

Did Haltech elaborate on what the software issue was?

Torque was 281, I personally haven't done research to comparatively see that the #'s were any better or worse than other similar builds for that boost,rpm, and fuel. I still have a little to gain from timing, so im expecting those #'s would go up.
In the end I will have not gotten to see the over all outcome of the 950cc injector setup. The tuner at dyno shop estimated with 950cc injectors and 91 pump gas I could see 420-430hp.

Haltech did elaborate a little.
Its in relation to the synchronization of the cam and crank trigger signals. Haltech sets a home or "zero" position on a set tooth of the cam and crank(for example; tooth 1of36 on the crank) through rotation the reluctor sensors are picking up the teeth and the ecu is monitoring the home positions "this zero is here when this zero is here".
Some how they found that through a number of rotations or certain speeds that the tooth being read on the cam would begin to "walk" as they described, or become out of position slightly , thus messing with the synchronization.
They resolved the issue by changing the tooth used for the home position on the crank. They didn't elaborate why that fixed anything, but that's what worked. This was haltech in Australia that resolved the issue, the issue seemed to be specific to early Subaru's with 6 tooth crank sprocket/gear/cog.
One thing thats not currently an option in the software, but it sounds as though they are working on making it available, is the ability to self set the crank/cam home positions. Currently only preset options are available.
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by Brisky »

I don't think I am smart enough to understand half of all that you accomplished, but I will say this...

Well done sir! Well done! *enthusiastic clapping*

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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by cj91legss »

What's the part number for those head gaskets?

I called wiseco and they told me they didn't offer a .051 head gasket, only .040.

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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by dankberries »

cj91legss wrote:What's the part number for those head gaskets?

I called wiseco and they told me they didn't offer a .051 head gasket, only .040.

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CJ,
Your issue maybe that there applications are listed differently, but both are for ej22 98mm bore just with different thickness.

Part #: W6319

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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by cj91legss »

Eh I think they could have at least mentioned the .051 if that was the case. The guy I spoke with said "I don't see any .051 on our computer.

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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by Legacy777 »

dankberries wrote:Haltech did elaborate a little.
Its in relation to the synchronization of the cam and crank trigger signals. Haltech sets a home or "zero" position on a set tooth of the cam and crank(for example; tooth 1of36 on the crank) through rotation the reluctor sensors are picking up the teeth and the ecu is monitoring the home positions "this zero is here when this zero is here".
Some how they found that through a number of rotations or certain speeds that the tooth being read on the cam would begin to "walk" as they described, or become out of position slightly , thus messing with the synchronization.
They resolved the issue by changing the tooth used for the home position on the crank. They didn't elaborate why that fixed anything, but that's what worked. This was haltech in Australia that resolved the issue, the issue seemed to be specific to early Subaru's with 6 tooth crank sprocket/gear/cog.
One thing thats not currently an option in the software, but it sounds as though they are working on making it available, is the ability to self set the crank/cam home positions. Currently only preset options are available.

That's interesting, and this is probably also one of the reasons the crank sensors have changed over the years.
Josh

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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by dankberries »

Update:

02/20/17 installed the deatschwerks top feed fuel rail conversion with 2200cc injectors and haltech flex fuel composition sensor. Began base/drivability tuning the car on pump gas 91 with new injectors.

Image

02/21/17 Made a quick drain "T" setup on the fuel system to quickly and cleanly swap fuels. Switched fuel to e-85 and began base/drivability tuning and calibration of the composition sensor.

02/22/17. Got back on the dyno 10am. Arrived with three different fuels to tune for 91pump, e85, and e98.
Spent the first half of the day getting the injectors dialed in. Tuning the car to idle and run good on 2200cc injectors and pump gas is rather difficult, but was achieved.
The second half of the day was spent trouble shooting. Although the rpm issue had been fixed with the firmware update, the car was having strange issues in the upper rpm. Its as though the signal from the crank becomes scattered.
On the dyno, in upper rpm the power curve starts getting wavy and eventually starts to fall.
In conclusion we were unable to figure the problem. We didn't want to push things and didn't get the opportunity to turn boost up or tune for multiple fuels. I've now spent 10hrs on the dyno and seem to still be chasing issues around haltech.

Image

Haltech has been helping, as of 2/23/17 they have requested oscilloscope sample of the cam/crank signals for R&D.

With the increased rpm the car was now seeing 1bar of boost, that in combination with some timing, the car was now making 370hp 340tq @ 6200rpm.

To be continued...
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by Legacy777 »

Does Haltech have any filtering settings for the crank/cam sensors?

I seem to recall a conversation with the Link folks about the earlier gen Subaru crank sensors requiring more filtering to eliminate some of that scatter/noise.
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Re: dankberries 1993 Legacy SS **MAJOR UPDATE! 01/2017**

Post by dankberries »

Legacy777 wrote:Does Haltech have any filtering settings for the crank/cam sensors?
Yes, and I did make adjustments to the filter, but it seemed to only help minimally.
93 impreza rally muffin
93 legacy ss Tarmac Terminator
89 Nissan 240sx sr20
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killajamal wrote:Dank is actually German for "silly term which the kids have come up with to describe exceptionally choice marijuana.''
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