WRX Intercooler.... Installed....

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 1:54 am

At the Feed and Speed, a few of us came to a conclusion.

Most of the people running WRX Intercoolers are either automatic's, only running one intercooler inlet, or not using the hydraulic clutch.

But the infinite genius posessed by the group of people at the feed and speed figured it out.

It requires slight modification of the throttle body, VERY MINOR tapping of the ignitor pedestal, and slight modification of the intercooler inlet "Y".

After several hours of modification and help from air tools and Matts awesome neighbor, we got the intercooler to fit, without giving up one of the intercooler inlets, and still able to use a Greddy Type-S BOV (which is infinitely better than the HKS SSQV I was using prior).

Here's the step-by-step.

1) Get a spare throttle body. You will not want to do this to the only throttle body you have.

2) Look on the throttle body, and there is a line at one section of it. It's about 1/4" from the lip. Cut around the throttle body here.

3) Locate the throttle. The metal linkage attached to the throttle cable and cruise control cable must be modified to clear a blow-off-valve. The outside (right) cable is for the cruise control and it will hit a blow off valve, and not allow the hood to shut due to how the intercooler must be placed. We solved this by cutting that bracket, and zip tying the cruise linkage open (does not effect throttle position at all). You lose cruise control, but I never use it anyway. I'll figure out how to regain it another day.

4) Move the coolant tank. I don't know if it will be able to be oriented if it's in the stock or near stock location. I didn't have to deal with this.

5) Tap down the passenger side of the ignitor pedestal. It contacts the passenger side inlet of the intercooler. You don't need to beat the shit out of it like most people have done, you barely need to dent it, really. You could also cut that section out, but I chose to tap it down rather than remove material.

6) Cut the inlet Y at the corregations, and insert a 4" peice of 2" ID pipe. I got a 2 foot section of it for a few bucks at pepboys. Use the radiator hose from an old Jag (Vikash knows the model) to connect the Y to the turbo outlet (for a TD06H-16G, it's probably a little different for the VF11).

7) Install. You may need to modify the hood scoop and tap the hood a little and adjust things here and there, and you'll be all set.

I upgraded from the SAAB 10-core intercooler, and noticed a HUGE improvement in almost every aspect. Boost comes on much more smoothly, and feels a lot stronger.

The only downside is airflow. You have a lot of thermal mass with the WRX intercooler, but you lose a lot when it comes to flow from the hood scoop. I noticed that the intercooler would get heat soaked pretty easily. It'd be much cooler than the SAAB intercooler, but it was still warm to the touch after a very hard drive. A WRX hood scoop will surely cure this situation. I would love to do it shaker style, but I don't feel like cutting my hood THAT much.

Anyways, it's not super expensive or difficult to do the setup this way, and it's a MUCH better solution than the SAAB TMIC. You can even use your stock DV using a plate like Vikash made.

I'll take pictures later.

corsair · Post by **corsair** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 2:30 am

oh, and it looks money sitting under the hood

oh and when you cut it a dremel isn't the quickest way, nor is a lone hack saw blade

cleaning it after you cut it is a good idea too, but try to keep the TPS out of any solvent and be sure to blast the hell out of it with compressed air

(ps: Phil and anyone else, videos up tomorrow, they'll be on my host)

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 3:10 am

I had a blast being a part of this! It was an honor to be able to help Phil out & show it can be done if the vehicle has a manual tranny. It's a much tighter fit with a maunal tranny because the clutch reservoir lid makes contact with the bottom of the WRX intercooler. If you position it just right, it will miss the inlet bolt on the right side (bottom). It's a snug fit for sure!

P.S. I'm sorry I missed going for a ride in it. I'll catch a ride when Phil comes around next time & has the fuel cut-off issue eliminated.

dzx · Post by **dzx** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:23 am

You like the greddy type s more than the hks?

jake15 · Post by **jake15** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:00 am

cutting the cruise control linkage does not have to be done, it depends on the BOV you are trying to use

if the intercooler is hitting the clutch fluid resevoir you can swap to a WRX one i believe, they are an inch or two shorter for that very reason.

free5ty1e · Post by **free5ty1e** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 1:16 pm

dzx wrote:You like the greddy type s more than the hks?

...Yeah, don't you have that backwards?

The GReddy Type S has idle leakage problems, for one. Not to mention the reasonable pressure limits on that valve. Didn't someone post here that with a Snap-On pressure tester, the Type S leaked at 17psi or so? Boo to that.

The HKS SSQV is superior in every way, except perhaps for the whistle on the outlet

The best reason to choose the SSQV over the Type S is the design; the 3-chamber design on the SSQV absolutely does not ALLOW any type of leaks, at idle or under any boost conditions below 50 psi (I believe that was the insane rating HKS listed on their site).

Not to mention the SSQV is actually less expensive. And doesn't have to be adjusted, ever

(although I wish I could get it to sound like the Type S... that whistle is a bit much, and you don't even need positive manifold pressure before it makes its sound)

-----------------------------------------

One more thing. The clutch fluid reservoir neck can be removed, cut down, and reinstalled. I did that to fit my Saab TMIC, and I'm sure a WRX 'cooler would fit there too if needed. I even went so far as to buy a spare reservoir neck, in case I screwed the original up too much. But I didn't.

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 1:49 pm

We were going to shorten it, but Phil wasn't up for that. So we left it alone. The WRX intercooler just barely touches the bottom side of the hood as it is.

corsair · Post by **corsair** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 3:49 pm

yeah but Chris the best reason not to choose the SSQV is that it would probably come in contact with the hood, I don't know for certain, it seems that the SSQV is taller than the type-s when mounted on a wrx ic

-K- · Post by **-K-** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:35 pm

I bet the SSQV would hit the hood.

When I installed the AWIC I rotated the clutch resevoir so everything would clear the hood. I was also going to cut it down but it worked to just rotate.

free5ty1e · Post by **free5ty1e** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 6:42 pm

TMIC problems? I forgot all about those...

My SSQV does not hit my hood, nor does anything else in my engine compartment.

Actually, I can't imagine how the SSQV would be tougher to fit somewhere than the Type S, which requires clearance on one side for hoses and does not rotate on it's pipe mount. The SSQV is way more positionable IMHO, although I've never worked with a WRX TMIC. I had a Saab and would have had no problem using the SSQV on that setup, either.

The SSQV is not taller than the Type S. The Type S also requires access to the top (and clearance for an alan wrench!) for adjustments. And you WILL be adjusting the Type S for quite a bit before you can leave it alone.

Clutch system still works great with the shorter reservoir neck. I've got tons of room where my Saab IC used to be...

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 12:01 am

The SSQV I was using was horrible. Properly setup, the Greddy Type-S works MUCH better than the SSQV, in my experience.

The smaller nipple on the Type S is NOT an atmospheric pressure reference, but rather should be connected to the compressor outlet. Search google and read up. Before doing that, it leaked horribly at idle and when snugged up it wouldn't vent properly. Connected like that, it vents perfectly and stays shut at idle.

The SSQV is godawful loud, as well. I liked it, but it was just TO loud, and I would get very inadequate venting, reguardless of adjustment. You could very clearly hear the compressor surging with the SSQV in my car (reguardless of the adjustment of the screw).

I had no problem with leaks with boost peaking at 17psi. In fact, the "snap-on pressure tested limit of 17psi" seems bogus to me. Why? Well 17psi of absolute pressure is just 2.3psi of boost pressure over atmospheric pressure (at sea level). 17psi in the manifold comes to a total of 31.7psi (at sea level) absolute pressure. No problems.

I have zero issues with the Type-S adjustment, position, clearance, or anything else. I didn't have any position or clearance issues with the SSQV either.

I, personally, prefer the Type-S to the SSQV. The SSQV I had might have had problems, but the adjustment screw didn't do shit, and I got a lot of surge. I haven't had any problems with the TypeS. I liked the SSQV, but if I ever try it again, it won't be with the one I currently have.

Considering that I got the Type-S for free, I'm going to run it until it gives me a problem.

free5ty1e · Post by **free5ty1e** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 12:54 am

Tits possible. Hey the price is right, anyway.

That's interesting about the smaller angled fitting on the Type S being for the compressor nipple. At some point I may try it out again, I have to agree with you about how damn loud the SSQV is. I mean, yeah it sounds nice but you don't even need 1 psi to blow off and it's whistling for attention.

I get no compressor surge with my SSQV. That's odd, it's the first BOV I've had zero problems with.

Upon researching, I did find a website that recommends under some situations that atmospheric vent can be connected to a pressure source:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/inst ... ctions.htm

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 1:07 am

I don't have a link, but Vikash made some good points about the valve and why you should connect the lower nipple to the compressor outlet.

Give it a shot and try. It solved my problems.

Imprezive · Post by **Imprezive** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 5:24 am

BAC5.2, how did you mount the Greddy type-S to the stock wrx intercooler bypass valve location? Did you make an adapter?

A_DuB · Post by **A_DuB** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 9:06 pm

TITTY WOP or whatever

Imprezive · Post by **Imprezive** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 9:28 pm

what the hell is a titty wop? I am guessing you need to get one of those adapters that bolt onto the intercooler BOV outlet?

dzx · Post by **dzx** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 12:44 am

It means this thread is worthless with out pictures

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 8:22 am

I just used the adapter for the WRX IC.

I'm getting rid of the Greddy BOV though, in favor of a FORGE. Probably. I have yet to check out the Forge.

555BCTurbo · Post by **555BCTurbo** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 9:16 am

I only hear good stuff about FORGE

Ever look at Go Fast Bits Stealth FX??

Todd has one, probably the coolest thing ever

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 9:44 am

Yea, but I can get a FORGE valve for free.

legacy92ej22t · Post by **legacy92ej22t** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 6:25 pm

What're doing with the Greddy Phil?

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:20 pm

I'm either trading it or my HKS valve for the FORGE.

I am helping a friend turbo his 2.5RS.

Imprezive · Post by **Imprezive** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 9:23 pm

what are the advantages the Forge has over the HKS? I'd like to find a bov that clears the hood easily.

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Thu Dec 08, 2005 5:06 pm

I don't know the advantages. I doubt there are any.

I just want a change of pace. The HKS was too loud. The Greddy was pretty loud. The Forge isn't as loud.

legacy92ej22t · Post by **legacy92ej22t** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 12:18 am

BAC5.2 wrote:I'm either trading it or my HKS valve for the FORGE.

I am helping a friend turbo his 2.5RS.

Oh, ok. Right on.

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WRX Intercooler.... Installed....

WRX Intercooler.... Installed....