WRX IC install - no hammering - stock turbo
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WRX IC install - no hammering - stock turbo
It took all day, but Vikash and I got it in!
Highlights:
* No hammering necessary. I think the secret was having David Carter's fiberglass hood and also cutting down the throttle body.
* We managed to connect stock turbo (with it's damn clocked outlet) to feed BOTH IC inlets.
* Manifold Boost of 9psi after install... declining to 8ish at high rpm. [EDIT - have run as much as 13psi].
Stuff we did (only the stuff I remember)
1) Moved ignitor bracket. No need to cut wires, bend anything, or drill anything. We just moved it a couple inches and bolted it to an existing hole on the driver's side of it's little pedestal - pointing downwards. [EDIT - the ignitor died a couple weeks later in this position, and I suspect it had something to do with the IC. So, I moved its replacement over between the driver's side strut tower and the firewall.]
2) Moved the electrical harness, AC line, and maybe some other lines that ran along the firewall underneath the "dogbone". Once again, no need to disconnect any lines, we just unbolted the dogbone, shoved the whole bundle underneath, then bolted it up again.
3) Made VRG's blowoff valve adaptor (see below). Basically, we bought a steel plate intended for an electrical conduit box and also a copper tube with a 90 degree bend. Vikash artisically dremeled the steel plate to the right shape to plug the BOV hole. Then he drilled a hole in the middle of the plate and soldered the copper elbow to the plate. We reused the old BOV gasket to mount it up to the IC. On the other end of the BOV piping, we used a 90degree plastic elbow to connect the BOV piping to the intake piping. This elbow was bought from advanced auto and was titled "emissions elbow" or something like that. It's just a plastic 90degree elbow with the right diameters. [EDIT - later replaced all of this with a TurboXS 90 degree elbow. See later post: link.]
4) Moved the fuel filter to make room for the coolant tank. It's basically just ziptied out of the way somewhere where it won't hit anything (the metal thing with pretty pink zip ties). This is pretty ghetto, you proabably shouldn't follow our example because gasoline can blow you up. Another thing you shouldn't copy from us is routing the fuel lines directly over the hot coolant tank. We bought some random fuel filter that was small to make it easy to locate (copying Matt). NOTE - the fuel lines had to be replaced to accomplish this, and that always sucks. [EDIT - None of this would be necessary if you put the coolant tank in another section of the engine compartment which I did later.]
5) The infamous coolant take relocation. We followed Matt's lead and just stuffed it next to the washer bottle. It is actually remarkably secure considering there is no mounting hardware whatsoever. I'm working on an aluminum bracket around the washer bottle, but it's worked fine without a bracket so far. NOTE - to move the coolant tank you will need to reroute 4 coolant lines: 2 lines are 0.5" and 2 lines are 5/16" (is that right Vikash?) [EDIT - later moved the coolant tank over next to the ABS module. See later post: link.]
6) Y Pipe - we used the stock WRX y-pipe and stock metal inlet pipes. We cut the plastic y-pipe as short as possible (so that it left only 2 "ruffles ridges" in the flexible part). Then, we stuffed a metal pipe in there to couple to the next piece of tubing and clamped down hard as crap with a hose clamp (this idea was stolen from Phil). The metal pipe we used as coupling was just something we found on the exhaust tips rack at Advance Auto. It was 1 3/4" ID (1 7/8" OD). [EDIT - later replaced with aftermarket silicone y-pipe which made a MUCH better seal. See later post: link.]
7) Compressor Piping - routing the piping between the stock turbo and the y-pipe SUCKED because of the stock turbo's outlet angle. I'm still not happy with the kinks, but they're passable. This was the magic part:
Advanced Auto: (D)71244 Curved Radiator Hose
That was the best fit out of a half-dozen different pipes we tried. We cut it to fit. We kept the wide end of the tube for connecting to the y-pipe coupler. We cut off about half of the other end (the small diameter end) leaving only a couple bends (trial and error). In the end, there are kinks which annoy me. But, they are probably less restrictive than the compressor outlet, and I'm not getting much pressure drop at all across the whole system, so it works! [EDIT - later replaced with silicone elbow. See later post: link.]
8 - Collar between IC and Throttle body - we sawed off as much of the throttle body metal inlet as we could to fit the IC in without hitting the firewall. We used the stock WRX rubber hose to connect the throttle body to the IC outlet. It had to be cut down, and in particular it had to be cut at an angle since the IC was mounted at an angle relative to the throttle body. [EDIT - this damn collar blew off the throttle body at several rallycrosses in a row. Make sure it's as long as possible so it can reach even when the engine and intercooler move around. Also make sure it's clamped as well as possible.]
Conclusion: 15 hours later, it fired up perfect the first time. NO leaks (fuel, oil, air, coolant, or electrons), and virtually NO pressure drop across the whole setup.
Ahhhhhh fresh air!
Highlights:
* No hammering necessary. I think the secret was having David Carter's fiberglass hood and also cutting down the throttle body.
* We managed to connect stock turbo (with it's damn clocked outlet) to feed BOTH IC inlets.
* Manifold Boost of 9psi after install... declining to 8ish at high rpm. [EDIT - have run as much as 13psi].
Stuff we did (only the stuff I remember)
1) Moved ignitor bracket. No need to cut wires, bend anything, or drill anything. We just moved it a couple inches and bolted it to an existing hole on the driver's side of it's little pedestal - pointing downwards. [EDIT - the ignitor died a couple weeks later in this position, and I suspect it had something to do with the IC. So, I moved its replacement over between the driver's side strut tower and the firewall.]
2) Moved the electrical harness, AC line, and maybe some other lines that ran along the firewall underneath the "dogbone". Once again, no need to disconnect any lines, we just unbolted the dogbone, shoved the whole bundle underneath, then bolted it up again.
3) Made VRG's blowoff valve adaptor (see below). Basically, we bought a steel plate intended for an electrical conduit box and also a copper tube with a 90 degree bend. Vikash artisically dremeled the steel plate to the right shape to plug the BOV hole. Then he drilled a hole in the middle of the plate and soldered the copper elbow to the plate. We reused the old BOV gasket to mount it up to the IC. On the other end of the BOV piping, we used a 90degree plastic elbow to connect the BOV piping to the intake piping. This elbow was bought from advanced auto and was titled "emissions elbow" or something like that. It's just a plastic 90degree elbow with the right diameters. [EDIT - later replaced all of this with a TurboXS 90 degree elbow. See later post: link.]
4) Moved the fuel filter to make room for the coolant tank. It's basically just ziptied out of the way somewhere where it won't hit anything (the metal thing with pretty pink zip ties). This is pretty ghetto, you proabably shouldn't follow our example because gasoline can blow you up. Another thing you shouldn't copy from us is routing the fuel lines directly over the hot coolant tank. We bought some random fuel filter that was small to make it easy to locate (copying Matt). NOTE - the fuel lines had to be replaced to accomplish this, and that always sucks. [EDIT - None of this would be necessary if you put the coolant tank in another section of the engine compartment which I did later.]
5) The infamous coolant take relocation. We followed Matt's lead and just stuffed it next to the washer bottle. It is actually remarkably secure considering there is no mounting hardware whatsoever. I'm working on an aluminum bracket around the washer bottle, but it's worked fine without a bracket so far. NOTE - to move the coolant tank you will need to reroute 4 coolant lines: 2 lines are 0.5" and 2 lines are 5/16" (is that right Vikash?) [EDIT - later moved the coolant tank over next to the ABS module. See later post: link.]
6) Y Pipe - we used the stock WRX y-pipe and stock metal inlet pipes. We cut the plastic y-pipe as short as possible (so that it left only 2 "ruffles ridges" in the flexible part). Then, we stuffed a metal pipe in there to couple to the next piece of tubing and clamped down hard as crap with a hose clamp (this idea was stolen from Phil). The metal pipe we used as coupling was just something we found on the exhaust tips rack at Advance Auto. It was 1 3/4" ID (1 7/8" OD). [EDIT - later replaced with aftermarket silicone y-pipe which made a MUCH better seal. See later post: link.]
7) Compressor Piping - routing the piping between the stock turbo and the y-pipe SUCKED because of the stock turbo's outlet angle. I'm still not happy with the kinks, but they're passable. This was the magic part:
Advanced Auto: (D)71244 Curved Radiator Hose
That was the best fit out of a half-dozen different pipes we tried. We cut it to fit. We kept the wide end of the tube for connecting to the y-pipe coupler. We cut off about half of the other end (the small diameter end) leaving only a couple bends (trial and error). In the end, there are kinks which annoy me. But, they are probably less restrictive than the compressor outlet, and I'm not getting much pressure drop at all across the whole system, so it works! [EDIT - later replaced with silicone elbow. See later post: link.]
8 - Collar between IC and Throttle body - we sawed off as much of the throttle body metal inlet as we could to fit the IC in without hitting the firewall. We used the stock WRX rubber hose to connect the throttle body to the IC outlet. It had to be cut down, and in particular it had to be cut at an angle since the IC was mounted at an angle relative to the throttle body. [EDIT - this damn collar blew off the throttle body at several rallycrosses in a row. Make sure it's as long as possible so it can reach even when the engine and intercooler move around. Also make sure it's clamped as well as possible.]
Conclusion: 15 hours later, it fired up perfect the first time. NO leaks (fuel, oil, air, coolant, or electrons), and virtually NO pressure drop across the whole setup.
Ahhhhhh fresh air!
Last edited by rallysam on Fri Apr 13, 2007 5:13 pm, edited 7 times in total.
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PS - Thanks a ton to Vikash. Not many people would spend 15 hours straight helping a friend that he just met in person 1 week earlier. THANKS!
Vikash - Time to upload the silly photos
"Powered by Curved Radiator Hose (D) 71244"
Vikash - Time to upload the silly photos
"Powered by Curved Radiator Hose (D) 71244"
Last edited by rallysam on Fri Apr 13, 2007 4:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
'00 Impr RS - sold
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
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I will be swapping my ghetto inlet pipe with an all-metal STi pipe on the near future, then simply using some form of bent hose to get it all to work properly.
2009 Outback 2.5XT. 5MT. Satin White Pearl.
2009 Impreza 2.5i Premium. Blue.
[quote="scottzg"]...I'm not a fan of the vagina...[/quote][quote="evolutionmovement"]This will all go much easier if people stop doubting me.[/quote]
2009 Impreza 2.5i Premium. Blue.
[quote="scottzg"]...I'm not a fan of the vagina...[/quote][quote="evolutionmovement"]This will all go much easier if people stop doubting me.[/quote]
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i was able to walk into the back of napa and i actually made a stencil of the curves i needed beforehand, matched them up to a hose and i have no kinks at all and so far so good running 10psi all day long.
93 White Legacy Turbo Wagon: For Sale-ish
93 White Turbo Sedan: soon with a little more umf
91, funky brown purple gray color, legacy L Wagon: the "its so cheap i cant not pass it up" purchase to get me around when the others are down
93 White Turbo Sedan: soon with a little more umf
91, funky brown purple gray color, legacy L Wagon: the "its so cheap i cant not pass it up" purchase to get me around when the others are down
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With the stock turbo?gt2.5turbo wrote:i was able to walk into the back of napa and i actually made a stencil of the curves i needed beforehand, matched them up to a hose and i have no kinks at all and so far so good running 10psi all day long.
'00 Impr RS - sold
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
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yeah stock turbo and all. they had one that had the perfect bend in it i mean perfect (some of the hoses are all over the place i cant imagine what car they go on) and im using a good portion of the stock wrx y-pipe ill get pics as soon if you want them
93 White Legacy Turbo Wagon: For Sale-ish
93 White Turbo Sedan: soon with a little more umf
91, funky brown purple gray color, legacy L Wagon: the "its so cheap i cant not pass it up" purchase to get me around when the others are down
93 White Turbo Sedan: soon with a little more umf
91, funky brown purple gray color, legacy L Wagon: the "its so cheap i cant not pass it up" purchase to get me around when the others are down
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Yeah, and if you had a part number that would be awesome.
'00 Impr RS - sold
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
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i might still have the part number and ill get some pics later today. If i cant find the part number im sure ill be visiting napa for something soon so ill find the same hose and get the number off of her.
93 White Legacy Turbo Wagon: For Sale-ish
93 White Turbo Sedan: soon with a little more umf
91, funky brown purple gray color, legacy L Wagon: the "its so cheap i cant not pass it up" purchase to get me around when the others are down
93 White Turbo Sedan: soon with a little more umf
91, funky brown purple gray color, legacy L Wagon: the "its so cheap i cant not pass it up" purchase to get me around when the others are down
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Right on Sam!
Did you guys cut a lot more of the TB then we did on mine? Oh wait, you weren't up here yet when we did mine....Vikash, did you guys cut a lot more off the TB then we did on mine?
You still had to hammer the ignitor area though for the Y-pipe or not?
Did you guys cut a lot more of the TB then we did on mine? Oh wait, you weren't up here yet when we did mine....Vikash, did you guys cut a lot more off the TB then we did on mine?
You still had to hammer the ignitor area though for the Y-pipe or not?
-Matt
'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE
[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE
[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
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You're welcome, Sam. It was way fun. I think I might just try this out on my other car myself now...
The (D)71244 hose actually worked fairly well when cut to the right length. One neat thing is that it's flared, so one end fit neatly in the pipe we stuck in the Y-pipe, and the other end fit neatly over the compressor outlet. I'm very curious to hear about your hose, gt2.5turbo, but in the meantime, this hose is the lower radiatof hose for a 90-96 Chevy G-series van (G10, G20, or G30) with either the 5.0-liter or 5.7-liter V8.
We cut this throttle body about the same as yours, Matt. It's just the David Carter hood that gave all the extra clearance.
I thought we took more useful pictures, but these are the ones that were on the camera:
The new David Carter hood.
There's nothing behind the scoop!
The hood had no place for the prop rod, so we had to make do. Don't ask us about how we later had to move the car a few feet in the garage and left the hood up...
The new fuel filter and the relocated coolant tank. I believe this filter was Purolator part number F43178, meant for a 92 Nissan 240SX. We just used bulk 5/16" fuel hose and 1/2" heater hose to hook up the tank, and a couple pieces of 5/16" fuel injection hose for the filter.
Hmm... Close but not quite what we need. I wish we'd also taken a picture of how the Y-pipe was modified.
A recirculating blowoff valve!
The final blowoff valve setup. I wish we'd noted the Help! part number or at least taken a picture of the GM emissions elbow used in the left corner.
The final engine bay. Looks pretty.
And the scoop looks how it's s'poseta -- backed with an intercooler.
The (D)71244 hose actually worked fairly well when cut to the right length. One neat thing is that it's flared, so one end fit neatly in the pipe we stuck in the Y-pipe, and the other end fit neatly over the compressor outlet. I'm very curious to hear about your hose, gt2.5turbo, but in the meantime, this hose is the lower radiatof hose for a 90-96 Chevy G-series van (G10, G20, or G30) with either the 5.0-liter or 5.7-liter V8.
We cut this throttle body about the same as yours, Matt. It's just the David Carter hood that gave all the extra clearance.
I thought we took more useful pictures, but these are the ones that were on the camera:
The new David Carter hood.
There's nothing behind the scoop!
The hood had no place for the prop rod, so we had to make do. Don't ask us about how we later had to move the car a few feet in the garage and left the hood up...
The new fuel filter and the relocated coolant tank. I believe this filter was Purolator part number F43178, meant for a 92 Nissan 240SX. We just used bulk 5/16" fuel hose and 1/2" heater hose to hook up the tank, and a couple pieces of 5/16" fuel injection hose for the filter.
Hmm... Close but not quite what we need. I wish we'd also taken a picture of how the Y-pipe was modified.
A recirculating blowoff valve!
The final blowoff valve setup. I wish we'd noted the Help! part number or at least taken a picture of the GM emissions elbow used in the left corner.
The final engine bay. Looks pretty.
And the scoop looks how it's s'poseta -- backed with an intercooler.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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I found the package of the elbow. It's HELP! part number 47043: "PCV system elbow" for GM applications. The package also says "DORMAN 495-031" on it.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... mber=47043
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... mber=47043
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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Re: WRX IC install - no hammering - stock turbo
Any news? I'm wondering if this same hose might help for plumbing an air/water intercooler with the stock turbo.gt2.5turbo wrote:i might still have the part number and ill get some pics later today. If i cant find the part number im sure ill be visiting napa for something soon so ill find the same hose and get the number off of her.
Oops, missed this the first time around. Yes, that's right. Well, pretty much. They're actually 7.5mm and 11.5mm, but 5/16" and 1/2" are pretty close fits.rallysam wrote:NOTE - to move the coolant tank you will need to reroute 4 coolant lines: 2 lines are 0.5" and 2 lines are 5/16" (is that right Vikash?)
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
How did you move the a/c line without disconnecting it or bending it?2) Moved the electrical harness, AC line, and maybe some other lines that ran along the firewall underneath the "dogbone". Once again, no need to disconnect any lines, we just unbolted the dogbone, shoved the whole bundle underneath, then bolted it up again.
This is the one thing that in my preliminary checkup i've been afraid to mess around with.
James L
'07 Magnum SXT - not stock
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'93 Legacy Turbo SS - 5spd conv, vf34, intercooled, K&N, dual stage mbc 11/16psi, hks 3" turbo-back w/hi-flow cat, kyb's, ADR 18" rims w/225/35/18zr's, 7" touch screen w/race camera
'07 Magnum SXT - not stock
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'93 Legacy Turbo SS - 5spd conv, vf34, intercooled, K&N, dual stage mbc 11/16psi, hks 3" turbo-back w/hi-flow cat, kyb's, ADR 18" rims w/225/35/18zr's, 7" touch screen w/race camera
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th hose number is NAPA HOSE 8338. once you see the hose you will know what side to use. I cut my stock y-pipe after the ridges sith enought left to fit enough hose to fit in an exhuast pipe reducer to use to connect the hose to the turbo. the ypipe to exhaust piping hose was just a random rad. hose NAPA had that was big enough to fit over the ypipe. The site is down other wise id post a pic of the hose.
Yeah putting the ac under the pitchstop worked great
Yeah putting the ac under the pitchstop worked great
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Thanks for that number!!!gt2.5turbo wrote:th hose number is NAPA HOSE 8338. once you see the hose you will know what side to use. I cut my stock y-pipe after the ridges sith enought left to fit enough hose to fit in an exhuast pipe reducer to use to connect the hose to the turbo. the ypipe to exhaust piping hose was just a random rad. hose NAPA had that was big enough to fit over the ypipe. The site is down other wise id post a pic of the hose.
Yeah putting the ac under the pitchstop worked great
It was definitely no problem bending that AC line. The only thing I don't know is this. I've seen a lot of different hose configurations on different BC-BFs, so maybe it would be easier or harder if you have a different hose than mine. Mine was just a straight hose pretty much.
'00 Impr RS - sold
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
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Cool, I'll have to check that hose out.
8338 is the lower radiator hose for a 1988 non-diesel Chevy Suburban.
So you slipped hose over the Y-pipe and then clamped it down? The plastic of the Y-pipe was able to handle it?
8338 is the lower radiator hose for a 1988 non-diesel Chevy Suburban.
So you slipped hose over the Y-pipe and then clamped it down? The plastic of the Y-pipe was able to handle it?
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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yeah just slipped it right over... and i figured since the pressure from the clamp is about even all the way around when tighted it wasnt going to affect anything
93 White Legacy Turbo Wagon: For Sale-ish
93 White Turbo Sedan: soon with a little more umf
91, funky brown purple gray color, legacy L Wagon: the "its so cheap i cant not pass it up" purchase to get me around when the others are down
93 White Turbo Sedan: soon with a little more umf
91, funky brown purple gray color, legacy L Wagon: the "its so cheap i cant not pass it up" purchase to get me around when the others are down
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A few weeks later, here's a couple ongoing issues:
My ignitor bit it during a rallycross, forcing me to drive 300 miles home on two cylinders. Since we just moved the ignitor as part of this project and put the IC a few inches above it, I would guess that its failure was related to this project. Either heat from the IC and/or downpipe cooked the ignitor... or mechanical abuse whacked it. It bit the dust when I accidentally stalled the car violently, so it's definitely plausible that part of the IC was beating on the ignitor or its bracket..
Anyway, my new ignitor is now mounted all the way over by the drivers side strut tower... tucked in the little nook between the strut tower and the firewall.
Other non-issues: the IC has a few spots where it is rubbing on stuff (I guess SOMEthing has to be holding the IC in place since we didn't exactly use mounting brackets!). I want to install some kind of rubber sheeting in key places to cushion it. It's also scalding some aftermarket tubing and wires I have running along the firewall right behind it. Just a few cleanup items.... it's running great!
My ignitor bit it during a rallycross, forcing me to drive 300 miles home on two cylinders. Since we just moved the ignitor as part of this project and put the IC a few inches above it, I would guess that its failure was related to this project. Either heat from the IC and/or downpipe cooked the ignitor... or mechanical abuse whacked it. It bit the dust when I accidentally stalled the car violently, so it's definitely plausible that part of the IC was beating on the ignitor or its bracket..
Anyway, my new ignitor is now mounted all the way over by the drivers side strut tower... tucked in the little nook between the strut tower and the firewall.
Other non-issues: the IC has a few spots where it is rubbing on stuff (I guess SOMEthing has to be holding the IC in place since we didn't exactly use mounting brackets!). I want to install some kind of rubber sheeting in key places to cushion it. It's also scalding some aftermarket tubing and wires I have running along the firewall right behind it. Just a few cleanup items.... it's running great!
Last edited by rallysam on Sat Sep 24, 2005 6:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
'00 Impr RS - sold
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
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is the ignitor the thing sitting smack dab in the middle of the firewall on that bracket? Did moving it require any kind of extra wiring, or was the harness long enough to go all the way over there?
Laurel Tuning Stage 15
92 Touring Wagon 5MT 16G
[quote="NICO I WRX U"]the streets are my track[/quote]
92 Touring Wagon 5MT 16G
[quote="NICO I WRX U"]the streets are my track[/quote]
yes. if you want to move it to where he moved it, yes i believe it will require extra wiring (just lengthening) the harness will let you move it about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way to where he mounted it......LaureltheQueen wrote:is the ignitor the thing sitting smack dab in the middle of the firewall on that bracket? Did moving it require any kind of extra wiring, or was the harness long enough to go all the way over there?
90' legacy built ej257 gt30r 6spd r180 and brembos Bitches 402whp @22psi :D -sexy red
94' Impreza wagon AWD 2.2ltr rally wagon FTW!
94' Impreza wagon AWD 2.2ltr rally wagon FTW!
hmm, then it must be a difference in the a/c line between the production years, because there is no way i'm bending my a/c line:
behind the chimney you can clearly see it bends up at this stupid angle and then goes back down.
It looks like i may need to decompress the r12 in the line, grab an N/A pipe and hose (which is straight), and repressurize it with 134. Turns out another Legacy driver up here had to do a similar thing.
oh well.
behind the chimney you can clearly see it bends up at this stupid angle and then goes back down.
It looks like i may need to decompress the r12 in the line, grab an N/A pipe and hose (which is straight), and repressurize it with 134. Turns out another Legacy driver up here had to do a similar thing.
oh well.
James L
'07 Magnum SXT - not stock
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'93 Legacy Turbo SS - 5spd conv, vf34, intercooled, K&N, dual stage mbc 11/16psi, hks 3" turbo-back w/hi-flow cat, kyb's, ADR 18" rims w/225/35/18zr's, 7" touch screen w/race camera
'07 Magnum SXT - not stock
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'93 Legacy Turbo SS - 5spd conv, vf34, intercooled, K&N, dual stage mbc 11/16psi, hks 3" turbo-back w/hi-flow cat, kyb's, ADR 18" rims w/225/35/18zr's, 7" touch screen w/race camera
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