new to scene, 93 ej22t tdo4 w/ ic 2.75 catless cold air ????

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RJ93SS
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new to scene, 93 ej22t tdo4 w/ ic 2.75 catless cold air ????

Post by RJ93SS »

[color=yellow][/color]
i am new and i have a 1993 ss with 90, 000 km 55,000 miles
i recently bought rims and tires for it from a 04 wrx wagon, the guy gave me a deal and i also got his intercooler and td04 turbo. i plan to run 2.75'" catless exhaust, some kind of intake as well as install the td04 and ic. i am also planning on putting in a perfect power piggyback cpu. any input would be greatly appreciated as to how well this could work as well as any other components i should look at changing, i want to run about 260 to 275 at the crank. i know the ic and intercooler are not easy to install but i am also a pipefitter so i can mod easily. THANKS FOR ANY INPUT
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

please help
93SS 04 wrx brakes/slotted w/ hawks--TD05 -- 06 I/C -- 20mm n/a fsb -- Stage 2 -- 550's -- Perrin DIV DP -- 2-3/4 Tit Exhaust -- K&N -- C/C -- A/C Delete -- Grounded -- GT Leather Interior -- WRX/STI Strut Setup -- 17" 225's -- 2 Kids Seats ;)
dscoobydoo
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Post by dscoobydoo »

welcome.

There are plenty of us here who are more than happy to answer any questions you have.

But we always ask you to do a quick search first, as more often than not, we have been down that road before.

To be nice, I will CN your questions:
Skip the 04 IC, find an 06- on WRX/Forester one.
The TD04 is not much bigger than your Vf10/11 unless your turbo is having problems, don't bother.

I would run a 3 inch exhaust, but 2.75 should work.

You are definately going to have to get a bigger turbo for the output you are looking for.
Yes I have too many Subarus
No you can't have one
05 GD-STI
01- RS- Swapped-07 STI
00- GF
93 SS- "the original Robtune" (now in new hands)
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

IVE DONE THE SEARCHES BUT I NEED MORE SPECIFICS
WHAT DOES MY RESONATOR DO AND IS IT OK TO GET RID OF
WILL MY STOCK BLOW OFF VALVE LEAK
DO I HAVE A BOOST CONTROL
THANKS
Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

Please do not post in all caps.

Which resonator are you referring to, I'm assuming intake, you can safely remove it.

The stock bypass valve should be fine if it's operating correctly.

What do you mean by, "do I have a boost control"


How much boost do you plan to run?
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

sorry for the all caps im on my dads cpu at work and he always has caps lock on for some reason
i guess i want to run 12 13 psi if thats safe im not looking to be really high horsepower as this is the family car right now untill my wife gets something else but i do want to go a little quicker
what is boost control?
what is involved in removing the a/c and side effects?
can i install my ic without having to mod the cpu
thank you to everyone for the input, i only started studying my car 1 week ago and have spent a good 30 hours on this website reading
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

also, what is the function of the intake resonator and if anybody has any pics of there setup w/ details i would greatly appreciate it
thanks
mattyg41383
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Post by mattyg41383 »

It is my understanding that the intake resonator is there mainly for noise reduction. Search the "coffee cup mod" and you will find a ton of information on that topic. I went a slightly different route on my car, and used a '98 Legacy GT air box, which has its outlet at a 45* angle instead of a 90*. (you could look through my previous posts or search 'cocktail shaker' and it should come up)

Removing the resonator will result in greatly increased turbo and recirc (BOV) noise, which is badass... and in my opinion some increased power, due to the less restrictive intake tract.

Im sure I'm missing some points, but there is a lot of info out there about it.

-Matt
-Matt
1993 Legacy SS - auto
1997 Impreza coupe
1986 XT - 14.5s @ 95mph
1990 Legacy wagon "the Red Dragon" -sold (300K miles and it lives on)
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

thanks alot for the info, i appreciate it, i already scouted out a 3 by 2 1/2 reducer stainless steel from work and i am going to weld two nipples and a 90 on, i'll post pics when i am done.
Does anybody have any info on removing the a/c, and how it effects your defrost????
93SS 04 wrx brakes/slotted w/ hawks--TD05 -- 06 I/C -- 20mm n/a fsb -- Stage 2 -- 550's -- Perrin DIV DP -- 2-3/4 Tit Exhaust -- K&N -- C/C -- A/C Delete -- Grounded -- GT Leather Interior -- WRX/STI Strut Setup -- 17" 225's -- 2 Kids Seats ;)
Dynamic Entry
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Post by Dynamic Entry »

I don't have any pictures but i recently deleted my AC.

Defrost still works fine, I know the dried out effect of AC helps but it really isn't paramount - I was glad to shed 40 pounds on my winter car

In my mind there are two steps

1) removing the charge. my 92 SS had the older, more toxic/hazardous type of refridgerant.... I tried to have it removed by a pro but his shop only had equipment to store the newer type refridgerant, so... I vented to atmosphere (don't tell the feds, oh wait: I live in Alberta and nobody cares about the environment here :shock: )
there is a valve close to the compressor that can be pressed (i did with a screwdriver) to release the charge but it takes a long while. I ended up breaking some nuts loose on the hard line at the comressor outlet and then ran away for about twenty minutes...

basically just don't breathe it and don't let it touch you, but it comes out in a gas and did not spray erradically in my experience (gloves and ducking worked out fine)

at any rate when the refridgerant is all gone you can move on to step two

2) start taking everything apart. it can all come off with enough bolts being removed. The compressor pulls right out after the brackets are off (a couple need to be put back after because the alternator needs them still) and all the plumbing can come out with their miounts & clips removed, the ones by the front corners are attached to the AC radiator-type thing and this can also come out you just need to take the grill off & apart and wiggle stuff a bunch


well, this about as candid a look into my world of wrenching ignorance that I have ever given this forum, good luck!
Andrew

16 Outback - wife's daily
95 Gravel Express - Sold
92 Green SVX - RIP
02 WRB WRX - Sold
93 White SS "Angel": 4EAT to 5MT 550 Robtune !SOLD!
̶9̶2̶ ̶W̶i̶n̶e̶s̶t̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶S̶S̶ ̶5̶M̶T̶ R.I.P.
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

have not done the a/c yet butdid do the coffee cup mod, it looks good and free's up some room and runs a little louder, i cleaned my welds with acid, only allowed for use in canada, and will post pics with in a few days!
My next question has to do with possible vacuum leak. when i
am under the hood at idle there is no hissing however when i hit the gas a bit i can hear a good hiss sound, is this normal or could i have a vacuum leak thanks?//?
Arctic Assassian
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Post by Arctic Assassian »

Usually you will hear the air sucking into the manifold, as long as you dont hear it at idle, you should be fine. generally vacuum leaks will not allow the car to idle.
Kickin' it old-school.
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

thanks, next question is my car seems to shutter, the whole thing when i am going around a corner at fairly low rpm when i give it just a little gas, for instance everytime i take this one freeway exit that kinda goes uphill and to the left it will shutter anyone have any idea as to why?????? maybe awd or tranny, car only has 55000 miles????
BXSS
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Post by BXSS »

Sounds like torque bind if the tranny is auto.
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Arctic Assassian
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Post by Arctic Assassian »

Check to see if all your tires have the same amount of pressure, and are the same model from the same manufactuer, with the same amount of wear. If you dont find any problems there, go look under your hood behind the passenger side strut tower for a black plastic socket that says FWD. You put a 15 amp fuse there and it makes your automatic car FWD.
Kickin' it old-school.
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

thanks, i will try the fwd fuse, if that is the problem what do i do to fix it, it is an auto thanks for your wisdom
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

all brand new k106 with equal pressure, it did the same thing with my old rims that were all the same
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

alos i just noticed that tonite my car shuttered going up a hill even though i was driving in a straight line on a slight uphill with lite throttle ,,,, could this still be torque bind,?????
Thanks
Arctic Assassian
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Post by Arctic Assassian »

When you turn your car on, does your A/T temp light flash?
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RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

no, all lights on dash work fine, no codes, no abs ar anything
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RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

i dont know if this helps but at half throttle through accel. it seems to get stuck at 3000rpm or so then w/ a little more gas it will shoot up to 4000 rpm, is this maybe turbo lag, what does turbo lag feel like???? thanks
Arctic Assassian
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Post by Arctic Assassian »

I have never liked driving automatics for this very reason... They just dont feel linear, like they aren't putting all the power down... and thats exactly what happens.
Kickin' it old-school.
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

anything about the question????
Arctic Assassian
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Post by Arctic Assassian »

Turbo lag feels like driving an na, untill your turbo spools. It's slow. The only way I can think to tell if its turbo lag or not, is to install a boost gauge. Maybe your tranny's slipping. Did you check for transmission trouble codes, as well as engine trouble codes? Or did you just check the engine codes?
Kickin' it old-school.
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

the tranny shifts really quick , it seems ok it seems strong. i dont have any engine or tranny lights on, i dont know, can i check for previous codes???? i am installing a boost gauge this weekend im just not sure what line i need to tee in to???? tanks for the reply
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