k start laughing an start lipping but I dont see all you FMIC guys posting your kits up so lets get some pics of what everyone is running I wanna devise a kit thats rather inexpensive and that works
as stupid as this may sound because PVC is "weak" or "soft" I wanna know why it is it wont work... rubber couplers directly on my turbo and the stock intake pipes are all Plastic so what other then for heat loss purposes would stop a person from running PVC pipe for IC piping.... it would be rather inexpensive and u can buy a special glue on top of couplers... Im just curious if anyone has tryied this or if I should even attempt to....
even with my T bolts my car still blows couplers all to shit ( blows them off the piping) at like anything over 10lbs... I havnt had any responses on anyone buying a kit for an impreza or a legacy taht is somewhat bolt on ( yes I know ppl run different turbo applications but it should still be relitivly the same based on where the throttle body and turbo outlet is on a WRX if u were running a TD04 turbo... yes lenth may be an issue as the engine to lower rad support may be different but why couldnt someone just lenthent a WRX kit.....
come on all u Front mount guys post up some pics of your set up
"Plastic" is a whole huge category of materials. There are lots of different types of plastic.
The problem with polyvinyl carbonate is primarily that it's not rated for the temperatures you see underhood. It's also generally not UV-resistant, so sunlight will cause damage over time. There's also the issue of whether it can handle prolonged exposure to motor oil.
If your couplers are blowing off at just 10 psi, something's wrong. I'm guessing you mean 10 psi in the intake manifold -- is it possible that your intercooler and its piping are restrictive enough that pressure's much higher on the inlet side? Also, do your pipes lack beads to hold the couplers? Another thing to consider is that when you accelerate hard, your engine rocks on its mounts and may be actually pulling on the couplers; you need to account for that motion in your FMIC plumbing design.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
yeah if i still had pipes... i sold everything... including the car... then deal fell through so now im keeping it as a winter beater... but i need all new crap so instead of the lame shit I had I was gonna try for a different/bettter aproach on a kit
I didn't start loosing pipes until about 22psi, so something is awry. Good clamps can hold a ton of boost, the ones you get from diesel truck shops. If its still an issue, get some JB Weld and make a rolled edge with it. Paste the end, let it cure on a flat piece of cardboard, and finish with a file. Works well.
You can get IC "kits" for under a hundie on threebay. They are great starting points for a IC pipe set. I had to have one piece welded by a shop since I didn't have access to a TIG welder at the time. I cut and marked all the pieces and $60 later, I had a beautifully fitting piece.
The biggest issue with most PVC I have seen is that it has a .5 bar pressure limit. That is 7 PSI. PVC can take the blow by oil for a long while, but I think the combination of oil, heat and pressure will cause very premature failure. I used PVC in two places on my friends FMIC on he EJ20G and a few weeks later it is still working very well, but I don't plan it to be a permanent solution.
Subarus are probably the most reliable cars made – they make Hondas look like South American dictatorships." - Jeremy Clarkson
