legacycentral bbs

Finally, after lusting over all in the forum who have done the TMIC+turbo swap, I completed mine this weekend! On the grand scale of things, it’s a fairly straightforward upgrade, but I always find that it’s the small things which hinder/slow me down and consume all my time. I spent a bit of time reading over others installs, trying to pick the best components and methods which have been used. I’m intending to make this the guide for 06/07 TMIC and TD0x installs. If any clarifications need to be made, please ask.

Total installation time: ~15 hours (3 days)
Total cost: $760

Picture gallery of install

Part list

• TD05H-16G - $420
• 1x exhaust stud - $15
• 2007 WRX TMIC - $70
• Wyntonm BOV blow off adaptor - $20
• 02-05 Samco Sport Intercooler Hose Kit - $109
• 90* silicone bend (turbo to TMIC extension)
• 2” silicone sleeve connector - $16
• 2” exhaust tubing + end flairs - $20
• 7x 2” T-Bolt Clamps - $27
• 2x 3” T-Bolt Clamps - $7
• OEM Downpipe gasket - $20
• GrimmSpeed Up Pipe Gasket - $13
• 6mm x 10 x 30mm screw (secure down coolant tank) – $0.31
• 3/4” 90* elbow insert (BPV to turbo intake tube) - $0.85
• 1’ 1/2” transmission hose - $3.35
• 2’ 5/8” transmission hose - $15.76
• 4" 3/4” transmission hose - $15.18
• 6’ 5/32” vacuum hose - $4.99
• 4x Worm hose clamps - $6

Modifications

Paint TMIC
While this isn’t a required mod, I decided to follow a few others from the forum since it looks cool adds some character.

1. Find and download the equivalent Subaru font, "Square 721 BDex BT".
2. Print out the logo you want. Seem to recall the font size was around 80. Took 2 sheets which I taped together.
3. Find an old cereal box. Glue/double-side tape the logo to it. Carefully cut out the letters.
   
4. Cut the stencil to size so it fits flush on top of the intercooler. Use painters tape and paper to cover up the intercooler.
   
5. Paint with high temp paint (like Rust-Oleum). Repeat for another coat or two. Allow time to thoroughly dry.
6. Remove all the masking. Now you’ve got the finished product!
   

Intercooler tubing
There are several ways to rig up the tubing for the intercooler, but the best (and most expensive) is to use silicone. It provides a longer lasting, more durability and flexibly during the install.

1. Remove the stock y-tubing.
2. The unmodified Samco y-tube doesn’t fit properly onto the 07 intercooler as seen below. Stretching the left leg to fit won’t work.
   
3. Cut off about 1” from the left leg of the Samco y-tube. Measure twice, cut once!
4. You will need to get a short piece of 2” exhaust tubing to extend the gap. Additionally, you should get a bead/lip rolled into both ends it so it creates a better seal. Mine only has one, because the machine shops tool couldn’t handle something that short. Additionally, you’ll need a ~4” section of 2” silicone tubing.
   
5. Once all the pieces are assembled, they should all snuggly fit together.
   
6. Next is to cut the bottom of the y-tube to extend it. While one in theory can carefully cut this portion to use the 90* at the end, it will not leave you enough silicone material for the t-clamp to bite into overtime. It’s best if you just cut the y-pipe just before the 90* and then buy a separate 90* to use. To make sure I drew/cut in a straight line, I slid a t-bolt clamp over the straight section of the tubing, Once cut, the mock up tubing will look like this. THIS IS THE OLD PICTURE WITH THE CUT TOO SHORT.
   
7. Get another 2” piece of exhaust and cut it to ~4 3/4”. I drew lines on both ends of the metal tube, to visually see the minimum amount of tube that needed to be inserted into each end to have the proper clamping clearances. This pipe too should have rolled ends to create a better seal. Unfortunately, I found that it was too damn hard to wrangle the tube into place while in the tight constraints of the engine and had to remove them.
8. Install the t-bolt clamps. Think about the location of the bolts and clearance, in case you have to access them while it’s still on the car. This is how I did it.
   

Clutch reservoir
There are two main options for dealing with the clutch reservoir, which will be in the way of the TMIC from laying flat: cut it or get an offset one. I opted for cutting. Even with cutting though, if the engine rocks around a lot, the TMIC will still occasionally contact the top of the clutch reservoir.

1. Remove the existing fluid from the reservoir. A syringe is very handy.
2. Loosen the clasp around the bottom.
   
3. Remove the empty reservoir.
4. Cut the tube so it's 2" long.
5. Grind/sand off any leftover plastic burs.
6. Re-attach the reservoir and clamp. Re-fill with fluid.
   

Tucking under the dogbone
There are various wire looms which need to be tucked under the dog bone. Additionally, those who opt to keep the A/C, can tuck the A/C line under there too.

1. Unbolt both ends of the dogbone and remove.
2. Loosen the wire looms from their attachments to the firewall and each other.
3. Remove the bracket holding the A/C line to the perch.
4. Reinstall the dogbone and tuck everything under it.
   

Igniter relocation

1. Unscrew the igniter from its bracket on the perch. Unscrew the bracket. Unclasp the cable.
2. Rough up the underside of the igniter – a stiff wire brush works well. Also do the same to the right side of the perch, where the igniter will be placed.
3. Depending on the screw you use, you might have to slightly enlarge the screw hole through the igniter.
4. Screw the igniter to the side of the perch mount and re-connect the cable. See the picture above for the final placement.

Cruise control mount
I found that the cruise control vacuum thingy, needed to have its mount bent in order to make room for the intercooler. Simple.

VF11 removal & TD05 install
The removal of the VF11 and install of the TD05 is fairly straight forward. Just a handful of bolts to remove and then reinstall, heh. I found it was beneficial to leave the TD05 unbolted from the downpipe (DP) and uppipe (UP), which I was mocking up the placement of various things.

1. Remove the airbox and all intake tubing/lines in the area.
2. Remove the 5 bolts attached to the DP. It would be beneficial to soak them with PB Blaster beforehand. Otherwise, you might twist off the head of bolt like I did .
3. Remove the 3 bolts attached to the UP.
4. Remove the 2 coolant clamps and oil feed line. Keep that oil nut with the tubro!
5. Remove the VF11 from the engine bay. Observe the gaping hole.
   
6. Comparing the two turbos (TD05 on the left vs VF11 on right)
   
7. Install new UP and DP gaskets. Don’t forget to clean the mating surfaces.
8. Drop in the TD05. Note the F-tube and the wires going to the throttle position sensor, IAC and coilpack all interfere with the turbo’s outlet. These all need to be taken care of in time.
   
9. Remove the F-tube. The hose and possibly plastic will crack from being brittle.
10. Re-route the wires going to the TPS, IAC, coilpack so they clear the turbo output. It’s still going to be tight after you get the silicone 90* on.
11. You will want to use transmission hose when re-routing all of the vacuum lines you removed. Heater hose DOES degrade over time as it gets soaked with oil and heat. I’ve had to replace most of original heater hose since this guide was created.
12. Extend the f-tube from the engine. The bottom of my f-tube broke off in the process of test fitting things. Ended up sliding a larger hose over it and securing them together. More testing of locations & tube routes.
    
    
    Finished engine bay post install on my other car:
    
13. Once you’ve figured out the routing of the f-tube, then one can screw down the turbo. Bolt down the UP and DP, don’t forget to use some anti-seize compound.
14. Re-attach the oil and coolant lines. The return oil line into the engine is especially tricky to get at.

Coolant tank
The coolant tank is another item which has a wide variety of options. Those who have removed the A/C, will find the relocation process much easier. I wanted to keep my A/C, so things got a little tighter. Thankfully it was fairly easy by rotating it 90 counter-clockwise and securing it to the original mounting hole.

1. Start by disconnecting all of the old coolant lines to the tank. Be ready to catch the coolant with a container.
2. Turn the coolant tank 90* counter-clockwise and re-attach it to the mounting hole in the manifold. I ended up having to get a longer bolt, which was 6mmx10 x 30mm.
3. The bottom coolant line (to the engine), needed to be extended.
4. The middle coolant line (from the turbo), needed to be extended.
5. The top coolant line (from the engine), I ended up reusing the OEM line.
6. The top coolant line next to the cap, I ended up reusing the OEM line.
   
7. Re-attach all of the various clamps to the lines.

Rerouting vacuum and air lines
This can be a time consuming process to properly route all of the various lines which need to be reconnected. Save yourself the hassle and go buy several feet of all the major sizes ahead of time, otherwise you’ll be on a first name basis with your local auto parts store.

• The line which attaches into the engine and the y-tube (to the 90* into the turbo on the right side), will need to be extended -- it's 1/2" about 30" long.
• The little line from the top of the F-tube, I ended up using some of the pre-bent OEM tubing (forget its original source), due to the tight bends it would have to make to get back to the 90* intake.
• The larger and bottom line from the F-tube goes directly into the intake manifold with little issue -- it's 5/8" and about 12" long.
• The large line from the 90* into the turbo (on the left side) and from the BPV, will need an extension -- it's 3/4" and 4" in length.

BPV rerouting
I bought a prefabricated BPV adaptor off eBay, which was a “Wyntonm BOV blow off adaptor”. It attaches snuggly to the intercooler. The Samco hose kit came with a hose that fits over the BOV adaptor plate, which I utilized. It’s too big to fit over the stock BPV, but if you slide it over the stock tubing and clamp it down, it makes a secure connection. I had to cut the Samco hose about 1-2” for a proper fitting so the BPV would sit next to the TPS. On the other side of the BPV, you’ll need to extend the tubing and use a 3/4” 90* elbow which goes into 90* intake to the turbo inlet. The small vacuum tube will also need to be extended from the engine.

Hood tunnel removal
Just remove the 8 screws around the parameter of hood tunnel and take it off.



Finished engine bay
(click picture for full size)


Update 2009-05-27
It's been ~5 months since I've had these upgrades installed. All of the components are still working great! I've done data logging over the past several weeks and came to the conclusion that the TD05 is too large for the stock MAF/injectors to handle -- even below fuel cut!. You WILL need engine management to run this turbo.

By now, I've got a LC-1 wideband, 440cc injectors, Autoec MAF and Revtronix Stage 2 chip installed and running ~15 PSI. The chip handles the additional components well, just make sure your O2 sensor is good, responsive and warms up quickly. Just an FYI for those thinking of going this route with upgrades.

Update 2009-07-06
I swapped my engine and performance bits from the 94 TW to 94 SS. Had to re-do some of the customizations in this guide. Also got some better pics/measurements. Guide updated.

Update 2009-09-27
Due to me cutting the Samco hose too short in the leg from the turbo (to try and save/use the 90* bend), over the past 9 months, it’s failed right at the edge and the material has been worn away. This created a major leak while on boost, but the engine still ran fine otherwise.


There was simply no material for the t-clamp to bite into. One cannot move it further up the y-tube, since it gets wider and when one tightens down the clamp, it slides down.


I decided to order a 06-07 Samco hose this time, thinking it would be a better fit on the legs of the 2007 WRX TMIC. Big mistake. The angle of the leg from the turbo to the y-pipe section is about a 45* one, instead of a 90* like the 02-05 Samco hose. Ended up having to re-order the “correct” 02-05 hose. Comparison of them both:

Great job. Nice write up.

GREAT JOB.

my f pipe was tricky too. this write up could have been very helpful
when i did mine.

as a note... the 1/2 3/4 5/8 ect. hose that you are using will NOT last. heater hose breaks down real fast. we all should be using silicone tubing. i did my swap sept. long weekend and when i pulled everything apart to fit up my custom intake i noticed all my heater hose had buldges and felt very weak.

i checked and subaru stock hose lines have silicone in them.


bsod... does your td05 installrequire any cpu modding and did it come with a 90 for the inlet. if so, what is the o.d of the inlet.

this td04 i have now is alright, but i'm thinking of upgrading and would need the inlet size. also which subie comes stock with the td05?

thanks and very nice detailed write up.

one of these write ups needs a sticky, and i vote bsod's

Super job documenting. This should be a STICKY! Looks like you solved many of the problems the way I had to, although your BPV adapter setup is way cleaner than mine!

bsod... does your td05 installrequire any cpu modding and did it come with a 90 for the inlet. if so, what is the o.d of the inlet.

I too am curious about this.

That TDO5 is one of the Subaru ones that comes with the 90*inlet...


However, when I installed a VF39 on my SS, I used a 2.25" silicone 90* piece and some exhaust pipe as a coupler.

Stickey Fer Sure!

kimokalihi wrote:

bsod... does your td05 installrequire any cpu modding and did it come with a 90 for the inlet. if so, what is the o.d of the inlet.

I too am curious about this.

+2

Where did you get your TD05?

Thanks

damn dude very nice write up

RJ93SS wrote:bsod... does your td05 installrequire any cpu modding and did it come with a 90 for the inlet. if so, what is the o.d of the inlet.

cpu modding? The OEM inlet 90* bend (with all the ports for the various tubes) fit right over the TD05 with no problem. The outlet, I used the 90* bend I hacked off the Samco y-tube.

RJ93SS wrote: also which subie comes stock with the td05?

The BBS forum member I bought this from, stated it was from a STI. Looking up the TD05 stamped part number, 14412aa092, Google says its from a 97+ Impreza GT555.

very nice write up!!
+10

i'm going to follow this guide for sure when i get all my stuff together.

this threadhere has a great guide on the cutting of the y pipe.

thanks alot!

Thanks Nation. Actually, my guide uses an FXT or 06/07 WRX Y-pipe, whereas this guide here uses an 02-05 WRX pipe.

Similar methods but slightly different end product. The FXT pipe would not require the extra cut to lengthen the arm of the Y up top.

Performance would be about the same, and this Samco kit comes with the extra hoses.

HMM, I'm pretty sure google IS wrong.

97+ cars had the straight under manifold turbo inlet NOT the SS style 90* inlet of the 93-96 cars.

I also believe the only Mitsubishi turbo 97+ Subarus used was the straight inlet (for under manifold inlet tubing) TD04l on the GF8's, the WRX sedans & STi's used IHI turbos as I have had a couple VF23's pop up in the past.

Nice Job & great write-up!

BXSS wrote:HMM, I'm pretty sure google IS wrong.

Just going off what others have posted online .

For example, this is an eBay sale of a SUBARU IMPREZA 2.0 GT555 TDO5H 1998 ON TURBO CHARGER which lists my part number.

This autoindustriya.com thread, users talk about the TD05 and Impreza GT555 aka Terzo.

The Impreza GT555 or the Terzo in the U.K. is a rare car -
1997 saw Subaru win the WRC manufacturers title for a third time in succession. Even before the official announcement to the UK Subaru dealers, rumours were circulating over the inevitable release of a third special edition, with the possible specification suggested being very close to the final car. Available from April 1998 onwards, at an on the road price of UK Pounds 22,995, a total of 333 "Terzo" special editions have been produced (numbered 1 to 334, omitting 13). Terzo is Italian for third. This is to celebrate the third WRC championship victory in a row, and hence the third special edition.

HMMM...
I guess the UK got weird versions of the car, I usually get JDM stuff & '96 was the last year for 90* inlets over there.

So, how's it drive? Did you lose low-end? Quicker spool? How much boost?

Driving it... yea funny you should ask. *sigh*. I have the boost set to 10 psi, until I can get myself a wideband next month. Also seriously thinking about getting the Revtronix Stage 1 chip (eventually upgrade to stage2 or 3) so I don't have to install a FCD. Basically I want to make sure everything is working good before I turn the boost up and break something.

I finally got everything working and drove it around town Monday. Lots of city driving, so haven't been really able to get a lot of WOT time in. Notice its spools up a little slower, but by 3-4K rpm, the turbo is kicking in decent. WOT in 4th really pulls up around full boost.

Tuesday, get on boost for a little bit then feel the engine loose power big time. Just got onto 520 (floating water bridge for those unfamiliar with the area) and limped across. Had to keep the RPMs up around 4K to actually stay going in 4th. 15 mi later, I pull into a business. My idle vacuum is normally ~20 inHG, but now it was fluctuating from 15-5. Figured I had a vacuum leak somewhere. Pulled off the TMIC, looked over all the lines, but didn't see anything wrong. Car wouldn't start up again either. Sounded like it was about to catch/start, but wouldn't. Just like the timing was off.

Got it towed to Smart-Service that evening. Finally I've got the full story on it today. The timing belt jumped. Well that explains all my issues. The real issue is the WHY. Apparently the timing belt jumped because of inner timing covers are swollen with oil. All of that needs to be replaced, the idler pulleys and then the cam seals to fix the oil leak so this won't happen again. I honestly didn't notice any oil leaks coming out of the front of the engine either. Oh yea, I already had a timing belt kit and tensioner installed 25K/2yrs ago too. Stupid hicktown mechanic shop only fixed the symptom and not the problem. ARG!

That all is going to be $1K+ plus I won't get the car back until next week. Pretty shitty.

OH wow, that sucks. Given your mechanical abilities, you shouldn't shy away from the timing belt replacement, that was the first major Subie operation I took on back in the deep past. You could do it all for like $200 in parts probably, and know that it got done right!

While we are talking about JDM stuff, was there EVER a better replacement for all the plastic crap from the turbo inlet to the filter? BXSS?

Nice write-up! Hopefully this will prevent some redundant threads from being started.

BSOD2600 wrote:Driving it... yea funny you should ask. *sigh*. I have the boost set to 10 psi, until I can get myself a wideband next month. Also seriously thinking about getting the Revtronix Stage 1 chip (eventually upgrade to stage2 or 3) so I don't have to install a FCD. Basically I want to make sure everything is working good before I turn the boost up and break something.

I finally got everything working and drove it around town Monday. Lots of city driving, so haven't been really able to get a lot of WOT time in. Notice its spools up a little slower, but by 3-4K rpm, the turbo is kicking in decent. WOT in 4th really pulls up around full boost.

Tuesday, get on boost for a little bit then feel the engine loose power big time. Just got onto 520 (floating water bridge for those unfamiliar with the area) and limped across. Had to keep the RPMs up around 4K to actually stay going in 4th. 15 mi later, I pull into a business. My idle vacuum is normally ~20 inHG, but now it was fluctuating from 15-5. Figured I had a vacuum leak somewhere. Pulled off the TMIC, looked over all the lines, but didn't see anything wrong. Car wouldn't start up again either. Sounded like it was about to catch/start, but wouldn't. Just like the timing was off.

Got it towed to Smart-Service that evening. Finally I've got the full story on it today. The timing belt jumped. Well that explains all my issues. The real issue is the WHY. Apparently the timing belt jumped because of inner timing covers are swollen with oil. All of that needs to be replaced, the idler pulleys and then the cam seals to fix the oil leak so this won't happen again. I honestly didn't notice any oil leaks coming out of the front of the engine either. Oh yea, I already had a timing belt kit and tensioner installed 25K/2yrs ago too. Stupid hicktown mechanic shop only fixed the symptom and not the problem. ARG!

That all is going to be $1K+ plus I won't get the car back until next week. Pretty shitty.

please dont drop a g note

it's so hard to fuck up the timing belt job.

i'll right a how to if you need it.

only replace the idlers if there noisy or are not easy to turn, when doing the job be sure to use a torque wrench because it's all aluminum.

i've never touched a timing belt untill i bought this car. i too, was scared to do it by myself and asked around for help, then a nasioc member convinced me to do it by myself and so i did.

ONLY USE OEM SEALS, and it's usually the crank that's leaks.

replace the belt, the tensioner might be okay but it could also be the reason it failed.

i had oil pissing out of mine and it drips right on the exhaust and smokes like hell, if yours is leaking that cover seal HAS TO BE replaced or use nothing because it will get caught up in the belt and skip again...like mine did.

it's simple
find tdc
take belt off
line up sprockets
put belt on.

my cpu modding question, i meant, are you using the stock cpu?

And as a follow-up, the plastic timing covers can warp/crack, etc, but they really are only there to keep dirt out - I have saved them in the past using high-temp silicone and make-do fasteners if they crack or strip where the bolts go. As long as they are not rubbing anything and are reasonably sealed, they are OK. I had an trashed idler bearing burn through one in my 1995 Legacy once, and I saved it just fine.

The first time you do the operation, it takes a while, but trust me, after the 3rd time you can do it pretty fast. Buy the Haynes manual, it helps keep you on the right path.

ScottyS wrote:And as a follow-up, the plastic timing covers can warp/crack, etc, but they really are only there to keep dirt out - I have saved them in the past using high-temp silicone and make-do fasteners if they crack or strip where the bolts go. As long as they are not rubbing anything and are reasonably sealed, they are OK. I had an trashed idler bearing burn through one in my 1995 Legacy once, and I saved it just fine.

The first time you do the operation, it takes a while, but trust me, after the 3rd time you can do it pretty fast. Buy the Haynes manual, it helps keep you on the right path.

you should see how quick you can do it on your 7th time, lol

i didnt use oem seals.

Heheh, I'm on my 5th Subie, I'm pretty sure I'm over 7 now, lol.

Nice write up.

I will reitterate the comment about heater hose. I need to go back since my intake manifold is off and redo things with silicone hose. The heater hose just doesn't stand up well to oil.

Excellent thread. I hope to see this a sticky.

A few things from my install,

The intercooler pipe comes really close to rubbing the coolant line that goes from the turbo, across the engine, and into the coolant tank. I had to move the intercooler hose clamp so that it didn't rub through.

Why did it cost you $15 for an exhaust stud? I broke one off during my turbo swap, but managed to find a pack of three at AutoZone. It's one of those "special parts" packages at the back of the store. Exact match for only $3.99, nuts included.