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n2x4 wrote:The intercooler pipe comes really close to rubbing the coolant line that goes from the turbo, across the engine, and into the coolant tank. I had to move the intercooler hose clamp so that it didn't rub through.

I routed mine under the dog bone. From what I can tell, the turbo coolant return line nor the intercooler silicone tubes/clamps are rubbing against each other. Time will tell.

n2x4 wrote:Why did it cost you $15 for an exhaust stud?

I needed an 'exhaust quality' stud, which the local department stores nor Schucks carried. The subaru dealer was closer than an Autozone (didn't know the carried them) or Tacoma Screw (a shop which carries EVERY type of screw/nut/bolt imaginable) AND I knew it would be the exact part I needed.

Finally got my car back the other day from the timing belt fiasco. Few things I've noticed so far...

1. Will need to chop down the clutch res or get a off-set one eventually. When the engine wobbles a lot (like when its idling like shit due to the timing off ), the intercooler's metal right leg bashes against the clutch res. I can feel it through the petal.
2. WOT in 5th, stops to pull around 70-80mph. Will have to wait for a wideband or get a laptop to hook up VGK3's scantool to see whats going on with the injectors, maf, etc. Still using the MBC around 10psi.
3. No idle issues. Overall, when driving around town, no noticeable issues with anything. Seems like stock -- until I floor it .
4. Noticeable increase in mid-range torque and responsiveness in 2-4th gear.
5. My typical mix of city/highway driving MPG is now down to 18-19.
6. Seems to start faster now. Basically starts on the first crank, while before it was several cranks of the engine.

Good job.

I'm curious to see how all the other intercooled motors with no extra engine management are dealing with the situation to avoid leaning out.

Offhand, I would assume that 10psi with that turbo is getting towards the limit of the injectors for sure. I was going to ask you how you are dealing with this.

ScottyS wrote:Offhand, I would assume that 10psi with that turbo is getting towards the limit of the injectors for sure. I was going to ask you how you are dealing with this.

I'm limiting it to that specifically so I don't get too overboard and break something.

Eventually, my plan is to upgrade to 440 injectors, JTEC MAF and the stage 2 or 3 revtronics chip. Contemplating getting stage 1 for now, then flashing it later once I get the other parts. Anyways, first thing on the purchase list in a wideband. Really wish I had a laptop/data logging system so I can intelligently find out whats going on.

It sounds like, except for the larger turbo, you are exactly where I'm at in the process. That plan is exactly what I would like to do as well, but I have not decided if getting the current Revtronix chip would be a good idea. I think I might talk to them more about that possibility.

I'm most concerned about running on the lean side and hurting stuff in the long term, and I am hoping that a wideband sensor might prevent that.

Mine never stops pulling at the current settings, I can tell you that before I got the FCD adjusted properly, the fuel cut was an obvious and instant lurch. But, for you, if the fuel cut is based on PSI, and not MAF values, you could conceivably hit the injector limit with total air volume and never see the fuel cut. (?)

ok so in the (your) guide it says that you need to cut the left arm of the Y pipe, that attaches to the 06/07 intercooler.

The Y pipe kit i purchased must have been different or something but it fit perfectly onto the intercooler without the need to extend or cut anything other than the 90* setup in the last few steps of the guide.

i purchased the kit from asi performance off of ebay, and i saved $60 from the price of the samco hose kit, including shipping.

I found a similar hose from a brand called "OBX" , i know Zenarracing (1 or 2 R's i don't know) and jjboy925 both sell these kits on ebay. they are nearly identical to the samco hose and (from what i can tell) don't require the additional cut/extention to get them to fit.

Here's what to look for: Example

and thanks for the great guide

SubaruNation wrote:The Y pipe kit i purchased must have been different or something but it fit perfectly onto the intercooler without the need to extend or cut anything other than the 90* setup in the last few steps of the guide.

Hmm, I guess the OBX is slightly longer in the left leg then. I'd be curious to see a few pics of it fitting on the intercooler's legs. I know at least with the Samco, while one could force it to fit, it tweaked/pulled the silicone too much and just wasn't right.

Yeah, the 02-05 is spaced different than the 06-07. That's why those aluminum eBay ones really don't fit.

If you get an 06-07 WRX or FXT specific Y, then the spacing works fine.

Either way, the solution works great.

Those of you who started with heater hose and recommend replacing with silicone -- how long did the heater hose last before breaking down?

Also, isn't silicone hose a lot more flexible and thus easy to crush? I'm thinking about my F-tube and that whole arrangement, since its pretty darn tight and lots of bends/touching other things. If the silicone tubing I'd get is like the stuff I used for the TMIC or BPV, then its not going to work out too well...

depends on what the hose was being used for, and how close it is to the turbo

if it's just air, then for the most part as long as its sealed and not pinched/leaking anywhere you should be OK.

Silicone > radiator hose

I thought it was the various air hoses people were talking about, that degraded over time due to oil saturation. For example, all the tubing to/from the F-tube.

Yes, if it's an air hose, it needs to be rated for fuel.

yep, thanks ScottyS.

ScottyS wrote:OH wow, that sucks. Given your mechanical abilities, you shouldn't shy away from the timing belt replacement, that was the first major Subie operation I took on back in the deep past. You could do it all for like $200 in parts probably, and know that it got done right!

While we are talking about JDM stuff, was there EVER a better replacement for all the plastic crap from the turbo inlet to the filter? BXSS?

The JDM 90*turbo inlet cars basically use the same crap we got just with bigger turbos.

The under manifold inlet is what connects the turbo to the airbox on '97+ JDM cars & the 02+ WRXs over here.

just i case someone's looking and because this thread is a good write up, i wanted to add this link as apparently the have the 06-07 specific y pipes for a reasonable price

http://www.oakos.com/Merchant2/merchant ... y_Code=300

USDM 98 Forester clutch reservoirs are a direct bolt in and small enough not to interfere with anything. (whole pedal set as well if doing an auto to manual conversion).
Joes 92 SS is here and underway. Now I see what he's been reading for his top-mount conversion. Very nice write-up!

Oh nice thanks for the tip! I'll have to find a 98 Forester at the junkyard and get those parts for my auto-manual conversion.

Any late 90's master cylinder from a 2.5l model should work, it doesn't have to be a Forester. I got one from a 2.5RS.

quick note for a/t to m/t conversion guys impreza pedal sets don't match your legacy bolt pattern. Forester stuff is perfect. Small parts do indeed transfer if your willing to test fit.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f171/ ... MG0197.jpg
Joes 92 SS with a USDM td04 and forester TMIC.
BTW I love LEGACY TURBO'S
"If your feet are too big for an Impreza, get a Legacy Turbo!"

Thanks very much for the guide. It will be helpful for me, hopefully sooner rather than later. I'm curious - will heatsoak be an issue with the WRX TMIC and the 16g?

hello guy i would like to know if this turbo would work on legacy 1994 turbo

http://quebec.kijiji.ca/c-autos-et-v-hi ... Z114532825

Looks like it, but you'd just need to attach a 90 degree silicone elbow to the inlet. Easy enough.

how much would be a good price?

Well that one looks new/rebuilt, so it's probably worth $750 +/- $100. You can find a used one that will work just the same for ~$400.

Well the 02-05 Samco hose is pretty close to failure. In retrospect, I should've left more material on the end and just bought a 90* elbow instead of trying to use the one from the Samco y-pipe. As seen below, the t-clamp has worn away the material, so it no longer can effectively clamp. There is an air gap as the clamp slides off (can't move back up the y-pipe anymore since it gets thicker/wider).

I've ordered a 06-07 Samco hose and will update the guide once it's installed.
Hard to see leak, but I sure can hear it when getting on boost!

edit: see first page guide for pictures