Updated, Adding a Cat. Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

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New92
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Updated, Adding a Cat. Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Sun May 01, 2011 5:07 pm

Ok knowledgables, I need your collective scraps of random know how. Im looking to pick up a Tsudo 3" divorced dp locally for super cheap. I hesitate only because I keep hearing about how the pipe is "longer" than pre 08 cars. What I cant seem to find anywhere is which end is longer. If its longer on the downstream side, it should be no problem as I plan to have a straight 3" welded up, if its longer at the turbo flange end, I may be screwed. So if anyone can say for sure and provide some peace of mind I would be very grateful.

As allways, I appreciate the help.

Ben
Last edited by New92 on Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by TurnNburn » Mon May 02, 2011 4:38 am

well im not familiar with tsudo's products, but my after market STI exhaust was both longer after the bend from the turbo(so it hung down way to low to the ground) and was longer in over all length so it changed everything afterwards. I ended having an exhaust shop cut and make it, and the rest of my after market exhaust fit.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Mon May 02, 2011 12:10 pm

Hey thanks for sharing your experience. Yeah my concern is in the upper portion. I can't find anyone who has swaped out an 08+ dp into our cars. I'm going to look at it today so I guess well see.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Thu Aug 23, 2012 1:13 am

Well after many many many months I finally got around to putting in motion the needed steps to get this on. I was referred to a guy who welds on the side. He took a look at things for me and confirmed we could make it work. He already as an o2 bung welded just past the cast bell. Im taking pipe and fittings over this Saturday to finish it up. Ill post up when its done to let you all know how it worked out.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by cj91legss » Thu Aug 23, 2012 5:35 am

Make a write up!!!!!!!
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Thu Aug 23, 2012 4:25 pm

Lol. Im a bit lazy in the take a picture and writeup department. Ill check with the guy doin the work to make sure hes cool with it. Ill try to get pics up on Sunday.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by Legacy777 » Fri Aug 24, 2012 6:19 pm

Yeah....definitely get some pictures.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Sat Aug 25, 2012 1:38 am

Then pics shall be provided
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+ Update

Post by New92 » Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:35 pm

Install was surprisingly smooth.
Before Shot:
Image

First step, free up the seized bolts. No easy task but they came off with some sweat equity. We tried heating and using an extractor on the one I had previously snapped but it will not budge. Be sure to scrape the old gasket off. Mine was metal and went undetected until we heated the bolt and it started melting.
Exhaust is off:
Image

Next we welded up a bung for the O2. The way we placed it give a 1/2 clearance from the transmission. you could put it between the 10 and 11 o'clock positions directing it upwards. There is plenty of room.
Full Pipe:
Image

Bung:
Image

With the bung on its time to test fit. Everything looked nearly perfect. Only two issues. I was keeping the original O2 bung open in case I wanted to use it later but it points directly upwards into the drive shaft. We welded it shut. The pipe itself was very tightly pressed against the cross member. We ended up putting it in a press and compressing it a very small amount. That gave us all the room needed to securely bolt the DP to the turbo.
Trouble Spots:
Image

Test Fit:
Image

So we cut our gaskets. I grabbed the type with a metal core and metal impregnated cardboard sheets on both sides. This stuff is a pain to work with. We used our flanges for stencils. We used tin snips to cut around the outer shape. Then we drilled the holes for the bolts. The metal layer is perforated and very thin. It tends to bind up on the drill bit and tare so be careful that you dont ruin your stencil. We used a hole saw to open up the inside of the stencil. This actually worked the best. It cut cleanly. We then used the dremmel on the rest to clean it up and get the exact shape we wanted.
Stencil:
Image

Hole Saw In Action:
Image

Clearance after "squishing" the pipe:
Image

After securing the down pipe, we cannibalized the flange on the stock exhaust. My exhaust was not the original. The guy I bought it from said it was pulled from a later model Imprezza. However the bolt holes on the flange matched up to those on the new 3". We hacked the flange off and trimmed it down with a band saw.
Flange Prep:
Image

Then we began to line up our stick of exhaust. I grabbed a 3" x 7' stick from a local shop for $30. It was medium wall which was not what I preferred but I didnt have much to choose from. We supported it with some stands and began to line it all up. We hit three minor impediments. We needed a slight bend to clear the floor pan and another slight bend immediately after to then redirect it to the back. We ended up adding a third slight bend to direct the pipe back up toward the rear bumper, clear of the diff and axle. Three total bends, 5 to 8 degrees each. (I must interject that as we did not have a 3" die for the bender we settled for the 2.5" It added very slight creases on the pressed side but still produced satisfactory though less than pretty results. Not for everyone, but Im not picky so long as it works.)
Ready to bend:
Image

After it all lined up we trimmed the mating end at a slight angle to make a better fit. Then we tacked the flange we had prepped previously to the pipe. Bolted it up to make sure it all looked good. Then pulled it down again to finish the weld. That done, we put it back in place and bolted it down tight. Everything was near perfect and fit great after some more massaging by hand.

Now I had purchased some exhaust hangers but after everything was lined up it looked like we would be able to use the factory hangers. So we cut one off the muffler and welded that to the end pipe.
End Pipe:
Image

Then we pulled the old bracket off the mid pipe and added that mid pipe.
Mid:
Image

And that was all she took. We dropped the lift and fired it up and boy did it sound nasty! Idle was very quiet compared to my old leaky exhaust. The sound gets a bit of a hollow can sound up until about 2k. Around 2k its very moderate. After 3k you hear the turbo whistle and all the other good subie noises you know and love times 10.
A Peek From Above:
Image

Ive not had it on the highway yet but after driving surface streets I noticed a significant change. The engine revs much quicker, turbo spools faster and gained and extra 2psi. I have however lost some punch in the lower range. I used to get peaky at around 3500 rpm now it doesnt hit till around 4k. Obviously the VF11 is not ideal for my set up and is on the replacement list.

Overall Im pleased. i will deff be looking to quiet it down some. Dont know yet if Ill go with a high flow cat, glass pack or muffler. Ill drive it as is for a bit and see. It does drone badly at 3k. Not unpleasant for a short run but 30 min of that would have me beating my head against the steering wheel. Definitely not for everyone but so much fun!!

Update
Well Ive had a few days to drive it and it def has changed things.
-2Psi increase in boost
-Turbo peaks at about 10k higher than before and continues to push to 6k
-Its very different to drive now. All the punch in the lower RPM's has diminished notably. Its very strong in the upper range.
-The noise is tolerable if you keep the RPM's down but it will get you noticed pulling out of first if your around any cops. Im def gonna quiet it down a bit.

All Done:
Image

Very Lightly Used Tsudo 3" Split Bell DP uncatted - $100
Exhaust Stick - $30
Gasket Sheet - $10
Labor - $100

Difficulty: 5/10 If you can weld and have a press and band saw and pipe bender
Time: 3 hours till completion. The bulk of which was cutting new gaskets and trying to get that damn stud out of the turbo flange.

I must make a special note: The gentleman who helped me with this project did all the welding, supplied the lift and tools and was amazing and fun to work with. He let me get in there, get dirty and learn. If anyone near Ga needs good work at a great price, PM me and Ill send you his contact info.

Thanks for following the review!

Ben
Last edited by New92 on Tue Aug 28, 2012 1:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by Legacy777 » Mon Aug 27, 2012 5:42 pm

Adding a muffler and/or resonator will help the highway drone.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Mon Sep 03, 2012 2:59 pm

Yes I will def be adding something in line there. Maybe just a 3" resonator. Its not the drone that seems to be annoying me but rather the raspiness it picks up at certain gears and RPM's. I like that the car is easily overlooked and the noise now draws too much attention on the street. Ill post up when I figure out what to do there. But overall I am very pleased. It has def allowed the turbo to run more efficiently. The car shifts up and down more smoothly, It idles steadily now and shuts off cleanly. I throw a code 23 and 49 when Im in closed loop on the highway. I have the O2 on a spacer to pull it up out of the stream a bit. Guess Ill try pulling the spacer first to see if that clears it up. If not Ill add one and see what that does. When I clear the codes it runs fine around town with no codes thrown so Im thinking its for sure a problem with closed loop. I also have a stored code 32 that Ive not been able to clear for years now. Seems to be an issue with my plumbing on the intake but thats been there since I got the car. Also of note. After replacing the two pin water temp sensor to ECU the extra two pounds of boost have gone away along with the obviously rich smell I was getting from the exhaust. So as always, +1 for replacing your temp sensor if you have never done it. Cheap and easy fix to a whole host of possible issues.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by Legacy777 » Mon Sep 03, 2012 4:38 pm

What MAF sensor do you have on the car? Both those codes are indicating you have the wrong MAF sensor on the car. You should have the aluminum bodied MAF sensor.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Tue Sep 04, 2012 4:36 pm

I have the aluminum one. Hitachi I believe.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by Legacy777 » Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:37 pm

Hmm....that's interesting.

Have you tried to do an active check with the green diagnostic connectors?

The other thing I'd suggest is checking the wiring back to the ECU. Here are instructions to check the MAF & wiring.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting2.jpg
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:55 am

Thanks Josh. Yes the active check has been run. I tend to agree with you that it must be wiring. Ive replaced the MAF two times with know working units. I even replaced the IAC with a working unit some years back in an effort to correct this problem. I am a total plebeian when it comes to electrical wiring and diagnostics so I was desperately hoping this was not the case, LOL. Well I shall have at it this weekend and keep you posted on the outcome. Thanks for the advice. I really appreciate your time and input.

Ben
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Sat Oct 20, 2012 8:44 pm

Well I am still no closer to getting this car to pass emissions. I cant seem to get the code to clear. My efforts to diagnose the wiring from ECU to MAF have been futile. After figuring out what the FSM was telling me to do, after figuring out what the multimeter needed to be set at to run the required tests, I started testing in the reverse of what the manual stated. I started with checking the ground on the MAF. I get a constant open loop. Just to make sure, I performed the same test on my buddies new G35 with the same results. What I did to perform the test was touch the ground pin to the battery ground, I then connected the other pin to the ground on the MAF. The meter is set for the audible continuity setting. OL is all I get. I verified the multimeter was working by performing the same test, ground on battery and touch known grounds on the frame and I get results (tone and reading). So after spending a lot of time reading about multimeters (that alone is a semester course) I was able to confirm that I am following the directions in the FSM exactly. So I gave up on that and decided to try the harness. Im getting readings but nothing seems to match up to what the FSM is saying I should be getting. So I decided to do as directed and check at the ECU with the harness connected to the MAF. I hit a dead end. After disassembling a large portion of the dash I still cant get the ECU enough clearance to pull out of its mounting. There is some big hunk of white plastic behind it thats blocking egress. So I tried to pull what appears to be the proper plug but it wont budge. Even with the tab pressed down with a small flat head. The plug itself will only budge an eighth of an inch if that. The entire socket that all plugs mount onto is moving more that that. I am getting so frustrated with the whole thing. Im thinking now that I should just get another SAFCII and try to trim the idle fuel that way. Its a band aid though which bothers me. Im cursed when it comes to automotive electrical work.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by Legacy777 » Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:49 pm

Is this what you're following?

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting1.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting2.jpg

So when you check pin 3 of the harness side to the negative post of the battery you don't get 0 ohms? If so, you need to check the cable between your battery and chassis.

You don't really need to pull out the ECU, just unplug the ECU connectors. Then you can check the wiring harness.
Josh

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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Sun Oct 21, 2012 12:29 am

Yes, those are the directions Ive been following. Well after a good bit of struggling with the connector, I was afraid of breaking something. I thought if I pulled the ECU I could get a better angle on the plug for removal. How fragile is that connection? The yellow connector strip on the ECU, that the plugs plug into, is itself a bit loos. Ive learned that I tend to break things in my car by putting too much elbow into it. Maybe Im just being too cautious. I actually went so far as to press down on the release and try to pry up on the plug with a flat head.

When I test the ground for the sensor itself (pin 3 on the sensor socket), as indicated in the final step in the process, it stays in open loop.

So am I supposed to be checking the harness from the engine or the cabin? FSM makes it sound like the cabin is the only place. Or will it not matter? Again I am sorry for sounding like such a newb but this is one thing I am woefully ignorant of.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by Legacy777 » Sun Oct 21, 2012 5:45 pm

What I've found to help in getting those connectors off is to press the release tab down and then use a wide blade flat head screwdriver in a twisting motion between the ECU connector and plug. Work one side and then the other side so the connector comes off evenly. You can even try pressing down on the tab with a screwdriver. Sometimes they stay clipped, which makes getting the connector out impossible.

Regarding the wiring, lets think of it in a different way. Think of the ECU as a pump, the wiring as a pipe, and the MAF as a bucket. To test whether the pipe is flowing water, we need to see what's going into the pipe and what's coming out. The same goes for the wiring. You need to have one of the test leads on the multimeter connected to the appropriate pin at the ECU, and then the other test lead going to the MAF connector. With the multimeter set to check for continuity, it's checking to make sure that electrons can "flow" through the wire.

Does that help at all? You will want to test all the wires that go from the ECU to the MAF sensor. If the wiring is good, the MAF is good, all that is remaining is the ECU.
Josh

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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:03 am

Ah, see now that makes perfect sense. The directions in the FSM made it sound like I was connecting to the wiring and then grounding to chassy. That helped a ton. And yes you did correctly diagnose me as a visual person! Ill give those plugs another go. Hopefully they kick loose. I was only prying on one side with the flat head. I did not try to work it from both sides.

Cant thank you enough for all of your time and expert advise. This is a big forum with a whole lot of members and I know your time here alone is spread thin. It is truly appreciated.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by Legacy777 » Mon Oct 22, 2012 5:24 pm

You're welcome for the help. Let us know how the testing goes.
Josh

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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:57 am

Will do man. Thanks.
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Re: Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:24 pm

Well a lot has gone in since I last posted on this. I was able to pass emissions after getting my sloppy coffee can mod remade professionally. The same guy who welded my exhaust did a fabulous job of welding up a solid steel piece complete with metal hose connections and rolled lips. I passed by the skin of my teeth (idle air readings were too high) and knew it was time to replace my Saab IC setup and piping.

I picked up a '06 Forester IC and WRX BPV for a awesome price locally. I had used some of my old hoses for the previous piping as well as replaced any radiator hose with SiliconeIntakes sweet couplers. I ended up using a flex hose to connect the BPV to the intake, with some modification. BTW the BPV is bolted to the stock location but I had to remove the Cruise Control from the TB and shave down the Valves outlet a bit.

After all was said and done, my emissions numbers were awesome! With the exception of HC PPM at idle. 221 out of 220 allowable. And then he lays the icing on the cake. I was surprised to see, annotated at the bottom, Failed: No Catalyst. So of course I addressed this with him. He advised that all cats, originally on the car, must be accounted for and I have to get one. And the other cat was not really a cat. He proceeds to go online and print and exploded view of my factory exhaust which labels only the DP as being catted in the system. This ticked me off to no end as I am now in the system as failing for removing a cat.

Anyway, Im now ordering a aftermarket, emissions compliant, catalyst but have two problems. Well one problem really. Where do I stick the cat? My clearance is minimal and I really only have two locations. I can cut up my pretty DP or I can stick the cat where the stock resonator used to be. It provides plenty of room but I fear it may be too far downstream to be effective at Idle? You guys have any suggestions?
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Re: Updated, Adding a Cat. Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by Legacy777 » Tue Sep 03, 2013 5:50 pm

I have mine just after the down pipe where the stock secondary cat is located.
Josh

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Re: Updated, Adding a Cat. Tsudo 3" divorced DP, 08+

Post by New92 » Tue Sep 03, 2013 11:57 pm

Yes that would be ideal. However, my fear is that as Im using a DP from an '08 hatch Im stuck with the DP terminating at the drive axle. Im grabbing a cylindrical 3" cat thats 4" in diameter. I have less the 2" clearance from shaft to exhaust. it should fit but its so close that Id rather move it down and away from the driveshaft if at all possible. Shes a real tight fit.
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