My EJ20G BF conversion has begun

[czo79]

the injectors in my EJ20G are grey top, I'm almost positive...and they are 440cc...its a JDM engine...from a legacy I believe. If I look around I could probably dig up the report from cleaning and balancing...
Mike K

I'm curious about running rich...I wouldn't be surprised if my car does a bit...I know the previous owner had a safc at one point, I think in an attempt to pass emissions or something...

[Matt Monson]

So,
Here'shat I know about my engine:
It also has the grey top side feeds.
It has a VF-10, I'll post the complete number later when I go out to the garage again, including Subaru part number.
It has 2 O2 sensors like a WRX.
But I am still not totally sure what year it is because the applied engine code sticker is worn off. I have never been able to find a site that has a breakout of applied model codes, engine codes, turbo part numbers, etc for all models of Legacy RS's or AUS Liberties like the KenandKatherine site does for WRX's. Can anyone help with this? I would love to find something that covers all years and all models from 90-96...

[MY92]

VF10's only came on Automatic Legacy's (badged GT).

Grey top inj are the same as the V1/2 JDM WRX which are 380cc/min

[Jaxx]

VF10's only came on Automatic Legacy's (badged GT).

yup so far it has done well to .8bar with and air/air IC

Grey top inj are the same as the V1/2 JDM WRX which are 380cc/min

bummer that ruined my day
guess ill have to remove the cover and look at the color again ..

edit:
that contadicts this post
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=15608

[MY92]

My VF10 did 8psi stock, had it running at 15psi for a while.

[Matt Monson]

that contadicts this post
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=15608

Jaxx,
Actually it doesn't. That post is about USDM injectors and here we are talking about JDM turbo injectors. But is makes sense that the grey tops on our engines that came from automatics would be lower flow since the engines are rated 20hp lower than the sticks.

MY92,
A while back we ran some numbers on the turbos and 15 psi is about peak efficiency for the VF-10 on the 2.0l engine. You could go a little higher, but there is not much to be gained there on stock fuel delivery. I'll see if I can dig up a link to that turbo thread...

Status Report:
the ECU and MAF from VRG3 showed up yesterday. Thank Vikash! Now I just need to wait for the note to expire on the engine hoist I found at a pawn shop. That means all I have left to acquire is a fuel pump (going Walbro) and the parts to complete the AWIC (pump and mini radiator). Then it is swap time.

[MY92]

I can't say I rate the VF10, well maybe if its on a 1600.

I bought a TD05 to replace it and now I'm looking at a GT28R.

[Matt Monson]

I can't say I rate the VF10, well maybe if its on a 1600.

I bought a TD05 to replace it and now I'm looking at a GT28R.

Yeah,
The VF-10 is defintitely not a big numbers turbo. I have a VF-29 in hte garage that I am likely using long term...

[MY92]

Nice, good response from the VF29. Just lacks that little bit of top end a VF22 has on the track.

Keep us updated of your progress.

[Matt Monson]

Nice, good response from the VF29. Just lacks that little bit of top end a VF22 has on the track.

Keep us updated of your progress.

yeah, but this isn't going to be a track car. This is my Subby Swap 101 car. Once I get it up and running, I will likely sell it to one of you in the next six months. And of course, the VF-29 will come back off for my own future use. But hey, I figure I can tune this thing to around 240hp with a VF-10 and find somebody who is interested in finishing the build with breaks and suspension and dress up...

[Matt Monson]

Ok,
I finally got to work on this today and made pretty good progress. After having to run out to get a 14mm hex to drain the coolant, and not finding one at Home Depot, Checkers, or Napa; I finally found one at the local family owned hardware store. Two hours later the work began at the crack of noon.

First thing I did was spend a half hour cleaning the turbo crossmember. For anyone who saw the pics of my EJ22T, you can imagine how filthy it was. I scrubbed the thing 3 times before all the oil and dirt was off it. Now it looks almost brand new. Not bad for a member with 200k and 12 years on it.

As for preparing the car for the engine: I managed to drain the fluids, and disconnect and remove everything except the heater inlet and outlet, the throttle cables, the power steering lines, and of course, the tranny. I should make pretty short work of that in the morning and get the thing pulled out of there tomorrow afternoon, and drop the new engne on Monday.

So far nothing has posed any major problems. But I can see the AC condensor being an issue. The two engines have different units with the lines mounting in different locations. I don't know how I am going to get around that without replacing the rubber lines in the car. It doesn't look like the old unit will fit, but I will have to play with it and see. I also plan on doing the refrigerant conversion since the thing will need to be recharged anyways. Thankfully I found Josh's "how to" and it should be straightforward and only add $100 or so to the overall cost.

The only other thing I am at all concerned about is the wiring. I thought it was going to be straight forward, but I have to admit that I am confused. The harness on the EJ20G appears to be complete and uncut, but it only has two sets of plugs, while the car has three, as does the EJ22t harness I have lying around. I am not sure what is going on here, but will spend some time tonight staring at the pinouts and trying to sort it out. I am sure I am just missing something that is very obvious.

One last observation I made today. The oil pan on my '90 is identical to my EJ22T oil pan and the one on the EJ20G. What I am getting at is the fact that there is an inlet on it just like the one that feeds from a turbo car. This would mean that guys like Thawa who want to turbo an NA EJ22 don't need to weld a return onto their oil pans. I just have no idea what years this might actually impact...

[vrg3]

I think your original A/C compressor ought to fit if you use its mounting bracket as well.

I thought the turbo's oil drain actually went into the lower part of the passenger side cylinder head. Is that not the case?

[THAWA]

if I may, ciper clued me in on the valve cover. there's not much space but I think we found a spot to drill so I wont have to go through the whole pan bit. plus valve covers are cheap and easy to change unlike pans

[vrg3]

THAWA - That's pretty cool. You'll end up with an oil drain in the same place as turbos have it, right? All those RS-T people drilling and tapping oil pans... suckers.

[THAWA]

actually one of the rs-t kits has the oil return in the valve cover aswell.

[vrg3]

Oh. Cool.

Oh, and for other peoples' reference -- Advance Auto Parts carries a 3-piece metric allen socket set. I think it's 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm.

[Matt Monson]

Ah-ha So that return has nothing to do with the turbo at all. I wasn't really thinking about it other than noticing it and thinking, hmm, this is just like the turbo. But, good to know for when I build that frankenstein engine I have spoken about before. EJ22 NA longblock with EJ22T pistons, cams, and rocker covers for use in a boosted car.

[Matt Monson]

The frickin bottom bolt on the starter is seized. And it doesn't help that this car has the typical cam seal, rear main seal leaks dumping oil all oveer the underside of the car. ACK! I will be happy when I get that danged thing off. After that all that is left is the clutch fork and engine/tranny bolts. Well, off to the garage to see if the penetrant worked on that sucker...

[Matt Monson]

I missed my goal of 4:20 by about ten minutes. Total time for removal was about 10 hours of work. Not bad for a hack mechanic who hasn't pulled an engine in 5 years and hasn't ever pulled one by himself, let alone a Subaru engine. Anyways, I am just very ahppy that phase I is done and had to share.

I am going to clean up the engine bay a bit, but the crossmember conversion is going to have to wait until tommorow. I am thinking the new engine won't go in until Tuesday at this rate. I still haven't pulled off the timing belt cover and figured out what belt I need, let alone gone out and found a replacement. Oh well, all part of the process...

[ciper]

Not taking the turbo and piping into consideration the best place I say to mount the oil drain was on the "face" of the valve cover closest to the firewall between the two rockers. The surface is angled the wrong direction slightly so you will have to make a hole at an angle parralel "if not greater for better draining" to the cover sealing surface.

I could see you doing this easily with a large drill bit, a threaded/barbed connector and a small pyramid of JB weld.

Also Im fairly sure it would be possible to convert the car over to an NA valve cover gasket on that side with a T fitting and a short length of hose (combining the two breather hoses).

[vrg3]

I don't think you want to tee the breather hoses; I think on the turbo one of them is meant as an inlet and the other as an outlet. But maybe you could attach another fitting for the other hose.

[Matt Monson]

The Car. I am also gonna get some body work experience here.

out with the old...

in with the new.

the recipient.

[Matt Monson]

Front crossmember and AWIC.

Everything that must be removed before the engine (ignore the EJ22T heads in background )

And the MAF and ECU courtesy of our freind VRG3.

No more progress to report. But if I get motivated tommorow the crossmember switch occurs...

[snowjob]

Hey Matt, I'm doing the exact same conversion, with the exception of I'm taking an existing turbo, and giving it a heart transplant to a ej20t. Anyway I just got my engine today...my intercooler is silver not black. anyway what are u using for the intercooler water pump and rad, or are you tying it into your existing radiator with the engine? Also how's the wiring going, I'm looking at mine, and it looks like a nightmare. Any tips?? pics, thanks

Frazer

[Matt Monson]

Silver intercooler means you got an '89-91. Do you have the VF-10 or the larger VF-8? If you got the 8 it came off a manual and will be stronger.

I am going to be using a water pump from a marine supply store and a tranny cooler for the "radiator" tank. This is the Marc Rameriz set up. I talked to him in person for over an hour yesterday and he is shooting me links with part numbers and exactly where he got his parts. His set up is truly truly sick. I will post a thread in a few days after I have the details and have started to install it.

As for the wiring, mine is going to really suck. I am in the process of getting the bulkhead harness along with wastegate control solenoid and pressure sensor, etc that is missing from the NA car. You will not nedd to do this. I would say just take the '92 harness off your EJ22T and rewire it into your new engine. I am going to have to do this myself since my car is a '90 Hitachi wired US made car and my engine is a '93 JECs wired JDM and the connectors are totally different. I am seriously considering wiring the whole car as a result. You should be able to get around this if you use your old engine harness...