Engine Pull and rebuild tips.
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I got lost after the first three posts or so...I'm not the most excitable reader.
Great post doug!
I would like to add that when doing the AC (fully charged), as someone already said you can swing it off to the side. I think there is a mounting bracket for one of the hoses that can be removed. Gives you a few more inches of twist. Then she'll sit where you want it.
Another item, with my dad steadying the engine I was able to get the engine out of the bay without removing the radiator. Just have a big heavy guy that can hold the block up for you. Not that my dads fat or anything....
My radiator hoses were toast so I just lopped em off. Made it quick and simple.
But seriously you have to unplug the harness?
Great post doug!
I would like to add that when doing the AC (fully charged), as someone already said you can swing it off to the side. I think there is a mounting bracket for one of the hoses that can be removed. Gives you a few more inches of twist. Then she'll sit where you want it.
Another item, with my dad steadying the engine I was able to get the engine out of the bay without removing the radiator. Just have a big heavy guy that can hold the block up for you. Not that my dads fat or anything....
My radiator hoses were toast so I just lopped em off. Made it quick and simple.
But seriously you have to unplug the harness?
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"You say grease monkey like its a bad thing"
http://www.toolsource.com
0perose wrote:ok guys you'll probably kill me for this one...
what to do if we already took the torque converter off with the engine?
edit:
on the donor and swap car
the answer is play with the torque converter forever. you'll feel it when you've got it.
(jon drove it last night woooohooo!)
yo mang, can I get a rootshell?
1991 N/A, 4eat, crazy lights, junk suspension, sticker wagon
1989 xt6 work in progress
1991 N/A, 4eat, crazy lights, junk suspension, sticker wagon
1989 xt6 work in progress
about front speaker deep
mine are blow and i wnder if these speaker would fit
or i need some spacer nobody know how deep the stock speaker are nobody wrote it.
JBL - GT5-652
Size 165mm
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Power Handling, RMS 45W
Sensitivity (2.83V/1m) 93dB
Frequency Response 55Hz – 20kHz
Mounting Depth 56mm
or i need some spacer nobody know how deep the stock speaker are nobody wrote it.
JBL - GT5-652
Size 165mm
Nominal Impedance 4 Ohms
Power Handling, Peak 135W
Power Handling, RMS 45W
Sensitivity (2.83V/1m) 93dB
Frequency Response 55Hz – 20kHz
Mounting Depth 56mm
It's a procedure when starting a rebuilt engine or doing a head gasket.ThatZkid wrote:What is the special startup mode you were talking about? How do you activate it?
Per DV's original post:
24- When you have replace the rings and/or pistons and/or heads, you need special start up mode to be in action.
1- remove the little areas above the fuel pump in back. Unhook those wire clips. This turns the fuel pump off.
2- Unhook the coil pack clip
3- Turn over the engine a few times to get oil back into the engine.
4- You DID add oil didn’t you?
5- Add the oil!
6- Repeat.
7- Hook all the clips back up. Start engine. Idle rev, Idle, rev. But not too long. Listen carefully. If you rebuilt or had the heads rebuilt, the engine is going to be noisier than hell. The tappets are starved of oil and it will take up to 5ish miles until they fill back up and start to be quiet.
8- Go to a remote area if possible and accelerate up to 50 and then let off the gas IN GEAR down to 30. Repeat for 5-10 times. This supposedly sets the rings.
Summary: This prevents a 'dry' start after a rebuild, and provides an initial 'break-in'.
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'90 BJ EJ22T/DOHC & 5speed swap - SOLD
'04 FXT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD
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LOL4- You DID add oil didn’t you?
5- Add the oil!
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"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
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Re: Engine Pull and rebuild tips.
Also if this has not been added to any list do not forget the drive plate and make sure your mounts are on correct just ran not this an hour ago
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1994 Legacy Turbo Wagon (Aspen)--SOLD
1990 2.2l Legacy--RIP
Keeping the Legacy's Legacy
"Straight roads are for fast cars. turning roads are for fast drivers"
Official Subaru Ambassador
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Re: Engine Pull and rebuild tips.
Figured I would post pictures of the hoisting points. Was pretty much a breeze to take out.
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Re: Engine Pull and rebuild tips.
Excellent info! Hopefully mine goes smoothly
Parts Needed:
Manual Cluster
Front & Rear bumper Chrome Trim
Manual Cluster
Front & Rear bumper Chrome Trim
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Re: Engine Pull and rebuild tips.
Also, care to share where you picked up the parts needed for rebuild? I see a few things on eBay, is that the best route to go?
Parts Needed:
Manual Cluster
Front & Rear bumper Chrome Trim
Manual Cluster
Front & Rear bumper Chrome Trim
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Re:
0perose wrote:0perose wrote:ok guys you'll probably kill me for this one...
what to do if we already took the torque converter off with the engine?
edit:
on the donor and swap car
the answer is play with the torque converter forever. you'll feel it when you've got it.
(jon drove it last night woooohooo!)
I dont know about the rest of you, I'm making popcorn for this one lol
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Re:
0perose wrote:0perose wrote:ok guys you'll probably kill me for this one...
what to do if we already took the torque converter off with the engine?
edit:
on the donor and swap car
the answer is play with the torque converter forever. you'll feel it when you've got it.
(jon drove it last night woooohooo!)
I dont know about the rest of you, I'm making popcorn for this one lol
wtdash wrote:ThatZkid wrote:What is the special startup mode you were talking about? How do you activate it?
It's a procedure when starting a rebuilt engine or doing a head gasket.
Per DV's original post:
24- When you have replace the rings and/or pistons and/or heads, you need special start up mode to be in action.
1- remove the little areas above the fuel pump in back. Unhook those wire clips. This turns the fuel pump off.
2- Unhook the coil pack clip
3- Turn over the engine a few times to get oil back into the engine.
4- You DID add oil didn’t you?
5- Add the oil!
6- Repeat.
7- Hook all the clips back up. Start engine. Idle rev, Idle, rev. But not too long. Listen carefully. If you rebuilt or had the heads rebuilt, the engine is going to be noisier than hell. The tappets are starved of oil and it will take up to 5ish miles until they fill back up and start to be quiet.
8- Go to a remote area if possible and accelerate up to 50 and then let off the gas IN GEAR down to 30. Repeat for 5-10 times. This supposedly sets the rings.
Summary: This prevents a 'dry' start after a rebuild, and provides an initial 'break-in'.
For the best break in I have ever heard of, try this process. What the guy says makes good sense.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I have used this basic process on every engine I have had built with good results. I am sure I will get flamed for this one...