Which Oil and Spark Plugs do you use?
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Which Oil and Spark Plugs do you use?
I'm not sure if I need an oil-breakin process if all that was rebuilt was the heads on this ej22t, but the motor has sat for a while. For regular oil changes, is everyone using a full synthetic like Mobil 1?
For spark plugs, I'm assuming to use a range colder then stock. Standard NGK's that are 1step colder work really well on the dsm and I'm imagining the same for these ej22t's. What is recommended?
Thanks~
For spark plugs, I'm assuming to use a range colder then stock. Standard NGK's that are 1step colder work really well on the dsm and I'm imagining the same for these ej22t's. What is recommended?
Thanks~
Subaru Impreza Ver6 replica with Ver4 Type R motorset.
Mitsubishi Evolution 4 replica with Evo4 GSR motorset.
Mitsubishi Evolution 4 replica with Evo4 GSR motorset.
Sorry, I found the plugs to use:
BKR6E11 (stock range: part# 2756)
BKR7E11 (one range colder: part# ????)
Still wondering if new heads need cheap-oil-breakin or not. Else mobil1 full synth is going in tonight.
Thanks~
BKR6E11 (stock range: part# 2756)
BKR7E11 (one range colder: part# ????)
Still wondering if new heads need cheap-oil-breakin or not. Else mobil1 full synth is going in tonight.
Thanks~
Subaru Impreza Ver6 replica with Ver4 Type R motorset.
Mitsubishi Evolution 4 replica with Evo4 GSR motorset.
Mitsubishi Evolution 4 replica with Evo4 GSR motorset.
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- Third Gear
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Ah yeah thats what I plan to do then, I'll be picking up 5 qts of mobil1 full synth then today.
Colder range plugs just cause a slightly later burn (***EDIT*** cooler combustion, not later burn), helping in detonation/knock prevention, especially on high boost applications. I'm just use to using 1 range colder on dsm's, so that's why I asked...then again, I was running 27+psi lol so it might not matter on these engines.
Thanks.
Manny~
Colder range plugs just cause a slightly later burn (***EDIT*** cooler combustion, not later burn), helping in detonation/knock prevention, especially on high boost applications. I'm just use to using 1 range colder on dsm's, so that's why I asked...then again, I was running 27+psi lol so it might not matter on these engines.
Thanks.
Manny~
Last edited by my3awds on Wed Apr 26, 2006 8:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Subaru Impreza Ver6 replica with Ver4 Type R motorset.
Mitsubishi Evolution 4 replica with Evo4 GSR motorset.
Mitsubishi Evolution 4 replica with Evo4 GSR motorset.
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- Fourth Gear
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Actually this has been debated back and forth also in the dsm community and I don't feel like starting one here LOL. But from my understanding, a 'colder' plug (a plug that transfers heat faster from the firing tip into the engine head) takes some of the heat away in the combustion chamber by , thus slightly helping the combustion chamber stay within its optimum range (500°-850°C??). Of course increasing the induction via boost, nitrous, etc, alter the plugs temperature and thats why people also play with tip gapping. This is just what I've read and I've found first hand experience on my old 400whp dsm. When I used bpr6es (stock range) it would detonate on 100octane and 25psi approx 4 counts through the rpm range. When I switched to bpr7es (1step colder), it actually made my setting a tad richer and I had to lean out the settings a bit on my gm maft. Whatever the 'real' reasoning for it, it's worked for me so I'll stick to it.vrg3 wrote:What makes you say that?my3awds wrote:Colder range plugs just cause a slightly later burn, helping in detonation/knock prevention, especially on high boost applications.
For now though, since I'll be on stock boost, I'll be using the standard range.
Subaru Impreza Ver6 replica with Ver4 Type R motorset.
Mitsubishi Evolution 4 replica with Evo4 GSR motorset.
Mitsubishi Evolution 4 replica with Evo4 GSR motorset.
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- Vikash
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It actually goes the other way, kind of: combustion temperature dictates the heat range of the spark plug that should be used. If your combustion temperatures are high, you need to use a cold plug to prevent the plug from overheating. And if your combustion temperatures are low, you need to use a hot plug to prevent the plug from fouling.
But there is one case (which is probably what you're thinking of) where a cooler plug indirectly causes cooler combustion temperatures. An overheating spark plug can cause preignition. Preignition is a little like overly advanced ignition timing, and so its effects include elevated combustion temperatures. Switching in a cooler plug can eliminate the preignition problem, restoring correct effective timing, and consequently reducing combustion temperatures back to where they were supposed to be.
But there is one case (which is probably what you're thinking of) where a cooler plug indirectly causes cooler combustion temperatures. An overheating spark plug can cause preignition. Preignition is a little like overly advanced ignition timing, and so its effects include elevated combustion temperatures. Switching in a cooler plug can eliminate the preignition problem, restoring correct effective timing, and consequently reducing combustion temperatures back to where they were supposed to be.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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