So, I got a '92 legacy n\a. Had to replace the HVA's. As I'm bolting down the rocker arms, I notice I'm putting alot of torque on the #7. Sure as shite, when I said that to myself, SNAP!! The bolt broke in to 2 pcs, and now I have half a bold sheared off inside my head. It's the one bolt that is in the oil galley that helps guide the rocker arms back on.
Now I have a broken car on a broke budget. I don't have any pnuematic tools, but lots of wrenches and sockets. lol. My thought would be to remove the head and try to extract the bolt. But the clearance is so small between the heads and frame, I don't to get into something I can't get out of. Since the bolt is in the oil galley, it is it worth the hassle? Can it be done without any major tools? When removing the head, what should I look out for that Haines/Chilton don't tell you?
If you can work on it with the head in the car, I'd suggest doing that. Removing the head opens up another can of worms.
If you stick a small screw driver or pick in the hole, can you spin the piece of bolt by hand, or is it stuck? My suggestion would be to try and use an extractor, and maybe use a dremel to drill into the bolt piece if there's enough clearance.
I've got an extractor and tried that, but I there is still not enough clearance. I got a drill extension and right angle drill chuck, but still can not get a good bite on the bolt. When it broke, it formed a peak /\
So I'm afraid that instead of actually getting a drill bit in there won't be dead center and just slide down and drill the head wall. I didn't pay much for the car, so I don't want to put to much money into it. At this point I think I just might sell the damn thing and get a better Subi
How far down did the bolt break off? If it is right at the top you might take a nut that is a size smaller than the bolt and place it on top of the bolt and wire weld down through the hole so you weld the nut to the bolt. Then just unscrew the bolt using the nut. All that depends on being able to get the welder in there. Good luck.
Jeff
91 Black SS 5spd. Edm lights, wrx gauges in dash, 45 degree airbox, cryoed drilled and slotted brakes. Invidia divorced downpipe with custom stainless exhaust. To be installed, aluminum a-arms, manual belts, awic.
Thanks for all the replies. That's why I love this forum. As far as the welder goes, it's WAY to deep. Second, I'm really strapped for cash, so I would just rather remove the head and repair it then purchase a second head. Then this brings up more questions. If I remove the head, do I have to do the entire front engine like I was doing a timing belt, or can I just remove d/s timing and accessories. As posted earlier, what type can of worms am I looking at? I have so many questions. Like I said earlier, no money no power tools limited work space. The thought of selling it is still on my mind. I'm located in Oregon
If it broke, its probably cross-threaded. Extracting the bolt will only be the first step.
I think your easiest and least-costly option would be to replace the head with a good used one (which requires removal of the timing belt and covers and replacement of the head gasket).
Try Doug. He is in Portland and has a garage full of subie parts.
93 legacy wagon L, 22T swapped (TW imitator) now with five forward speeds. (Gone, but never forgotten)
johndrivesabox wrote: Rally, my kyboard is brok, his has nohing o do wih h liquor.
The can of worms is really if you want to get the head back to OEM specs vs. if you're just doing things to get the engine working again.
If you just want to get it running, you can remove the head, get the bolt out, or replace it with a used head; clean the old gasket material off the head and deck, put a new gasket on, and slap it back together.
If you are really dead set on just getting it running without spending any money I would put down $20 saying it doesnt have a problem with that bolt not even there
94SS.Wiseco forged pistons,TD04,TMIC,WALBRO 225,440's,3" all the way,revtronix stage 2,enough other crap to fill the internet.
THE TRIBUTE BUILD>>>LINKY LINK>>> http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=295455#295455
beatersubi wrote:If it broke, its probably cross-threaded. Extracting the bolt will only be the first step.
I think your easiest and least-costly option would be to replace the head with a good used one (which requires removal of the timing belt and covers and replacement of the head gasket).
Try Doug. He is in Portland and has a garage full of subie parts.
Yeah, Doug knows a lot and could help you out I'm sure.
I'm lucky I walk out my door and look right across the street at his wagon every morning.
1996 Subaru Legacy L 1993 Subaru Legacy SS 1992 Subaru Legacy L 1990 Subaru Legacy L
No, haven't got it sorted yet. Just had a baby girl, so time is kind of taken up. Still not sure if I'm going to pull and play, or pull and replace entire engine.
I too have just broken a head bolt in the same manner
DAMM
but i managed to drill half the bolt and half the block / threads with a 3/16th drill bit for about when try to remove the broken stud i can get $20 for scrapping it?
