Poor Engine Idle & Running Issues

[Nastyleggyss]

Anyone?

[cj91legss]

I'm in a family time situation where everyone else is talking about Android games, but I'm subscribing so I can hit you up in the morning.

I'll take some pics of my ss intake manifold harness tomorrow and post them. Pm me for my number and I'll try to help you diagnose.

[cj91legss]

Any type of shielded microphone wire will work for you. It doesn't need to be super thick gauge wire either. When I replaced mine I used 22/2 Sound & Security wire.

The knock sensor is underneath the throttle body just an inch or so to the left (driver's side) of the block. It's always bolted to the top of the #4 cylinder. At the plug it's a single wire and a single pin plug, usually white.

This isn't my image or thread, and it's also a different knock sensor plug but the sensor itself is the same shape and size, but this will show you exactly where to look!

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/t69900-lo ... ensor.html

[Legacy777]

I would reset the ECU memory, do an active check again, and if the same codes come up, I'd focus on the active codes that showed up. Follow the diagnostic steps in the factory manual to check the sensor/injector and the wiring.

I'd still do the knock sensor wiring if your readings were all over the place, but I've learned the hard way, listen to the computer if it's telling you what the problem is.

[Nastyleggyss]

Well idk what to do anymore. I Rewired the knock sensor and now it won't even fire off. Getting code 22 and 11. Why are there three wires shielded by the grey sleeve on the ecu side of the wiring harness for the knock sensor? I'm about ready to just scrap the whole car.

[Legacy777]

I think you may have the wrong wire. The knock sensor only has one wire that is shielded. The crank & cam sensors have three wires that are shielded. Based on the codes, it sounds like you may have gotten into the crank sensor wiring accidently.

[Nastyleggyss]

Well that grey section is how the three wires come to the ecu connectors. The knock sensor shield and signal wire, then a idle control wire from why the pin out said. I soldered it back together and get nothing now. I'm just so fed up with that car.

[Legacy777]

Do you happen to have a link to the pin out you used?

[Nastyleggyss]

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=48847

Should be at the bottom down there. I cut 4,5 and 6 that were bundled together in a grey sheath on the harness right before the ecu. Funny thing is that 6 was bare and the other two were just wires. Iirc the white was the shield and the black was the signal. I also cut 6 and resoldered it back together. Maybe my problems are elsewhere, but I am stil getting a code with a brand new knock sensor an wiring. Frustrating.

[SILINC3R]

Any other codes now? Perhaps you cut the the MAF wires on accident. They are also shielded. I did that not realizing. Take an honest step back, breath and then look at the wires at the ECU. Double check the wiring pin layouts and make sure you didn't repin/solder into the wrong area. You have to think stupid in these situations.

I had a similar issue with running rich and eventually got to the stupid part and sure enough I had cut the MAF wire. The car was running but it was causing me to run VERY RICH. Reconnected and bingo!

Again if the car worked before the swap there isn't really a reson why it shouldn't after. You did take the motor out and mess with 2 of the senors but you had it running.

[Nastyleggyss]

Well I retraced my footsteps and found I was off by a whole clip on the ecu wire clusters. Fixed those and redid it and still got codes 22 and 11, but it does run now. In active codes I got 32, and checked my O2 extension harness and found a weak splice. The battery is on the charger for the night as it was frozen I think. I'm back on the right track again, although it does run like crap when it is anything over idle with force on it.

[Legacy777]

Try clearing the codes with both the black & green connectors.

I suspect you cut the crank sensor wire. It's very important you got a good connection when repairing that wiring.

[Nastyleggyss]

I've pulled the battery to put it on the charger in the garage and it's been 24 hours already, and will be longer by the time I get around to putting it back in. Will a few days be enough?

[SILINC3R]

Good, just keep doing what you are doing. Like I mentioned it is usually something you know you should look at but you over look it. You're almost there.