Engine stand advice?

[killajamal]

I'll be needing to work on a motor coming up here soon. The last time I pulled my 2.2 the engine stand I borrowed would not bolt up to my motor. The bolts weren't long enough. Any advice? What are you guys out there using?
Also, what is different when pulling and dropping with an auto trans?

[Legacy777]

I had to buy longer bolts from home depot or another hardware store that had the proper thread and length. I also had to get some larger washers to keep the bolts from pulling through the engine stand bracket.

When pulling the motor with an automatic you need to remove the plug on the engine bell housing, rotate the motor to access the bolts holding the flex plate to the torque converter housing. Once you do that, remove the engine as you normally would. The only additional caution I'll mention is make sure you don't pull the torque converter out. Make sure the converter stays properly seated in the trans's oil pump.

I have heard of flex plates breaking. So depending on what your doing with the motor you may want to look at it and maybe replace it.....others may chime in on that one. Also check the oil separator plate; if it's plastic replace it with the metal one.

[killajamal]

Haha yep! The separator plate is one of the reasons its comin out!
Okay I'll have to look that up. I'd rather not work on an old tire again. Having an engine stand seems MUCH more convenient.
I'll be careful with the torque converter. Autos are totally foreign to me.
Any chance you remember any of the specific parts you used for the bolts? Length or any details like that?
Or if anyone else has recent insight as well that'd be great! I've gotta make this rebuild go as quickly as possible as I'm limited by school and work.

[mike-tracy]

I've always used the top long bolts that came from the engine. That and the nuts over the lower studs. You must have some wierd engine stand if they don't fit.

[killajamal]

I think you're right mike. The stand seems abnormably weird:/ I'll shop around for a good one that has shorter mounting points.

[cj91legss]

Just cut a 1/4" off your engine stand.

[killajamal]

Chris, that was actually my first thought! The one I currently have is borrowed though:/

[cj91legss]

Paint the cut and put some grease on it. No one will ever know! lol

[killajamal]

You're simply genius! Mwahaha > : D
I figured I should buy one anyways. I'll buy one and if its still too darn long I'll cut that bad boy down to size.

[Nohbdy]

I would say just be careful things brake and its best done with a engine hoist, I've done it with other methods and it was such a pain. Be very careful with the torque converter, I've never known it to be fragile but they can't move when you pull the engine because if they slide out its a pain to get it back in. So if you can come up with some way of holding it back in its place while you remove it that would be best.

[cj91legss]

They usually don't slide out with the engine unless you don't take the 4 flex plate bolts off. I personally have never had one slide out on me.

[Legacy777]

You could always do something like this

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... s/ej22t/16

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... P_4941.JPG
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... P_4943.JPG

[killajamal]

For some reason the page won't load josh:( but is it the wooden engine stand you made!??

[Legacy777]

Try it again....I've been having issues with my ISP lately.....I'm not happy.

[oldscoobyturbo]

the longer engine mounting bolts work with most engine stands and use some nuts for the lower studs and the exhaust nuts fit on the studs too.