DIY Short/Quick Shifter!

[Sir Yach-o]

There are a few exceptions, but this is what I did.

After driving my friends RS, and looking over Dave's Sti shift kit, I realized I needed something done to the long-ass throw of my shift lever. However, I wasn't willing to spend the $200+ USD for the Sti kit, and maybe would've sprung for a $100 kartboy if it would work, but Dave answered that for us a while ago in the Library. So, like always, I had to get my dirty little fingers in there and see what I could do to make a budget short shift. The two things I noticed that make a short-throw shift lever was the repositioning of the fulcrum (where the linkage attaches) and an actual reduction in height of the throw arm. Therefore, your hand will travel a much smaller distance when you shift. It's like using the boot to shift instead of the knob. Anyway, here's how it goes:

What you'll need:

1. a welder. So this is not your DIY for everybody, but even if you took it to someone and paid to get it done, it'd be less than $200.

2. Some way to cut metal. I had access to a metal shop, so I used an angle grinder and a metal chop saw. If all you have is a dremel tool, that will work too, it just might take longer, no matter.

3. Depending on how much you shorten it, you might need a new shift knob. This whole project was inspired by the fact that I got a MOMO Raceairleather aluminum shift knob and leather boot. The MOMO knobs don't need the threads to be secured to the lever, so that's about where I chopped mine off. However, using the stock knob, I was still able to screw it on very solidly, despite the fact that there were no threads left on the lever.

4. The right shift lever. Hmmmmm? What? Well, looking at Dave's shifter in the Library, mine looks nothing like that. My shift lever is more or less a single rod that never changes diameter all of the way down to the nylon ball, has a slight bend back (toward the rear of the car), and has the bracket that connects to the linkage welded onto it. I am keeping in mind that Dave did the 4EAT to 5MT swap, and I don't know where his parts came from. I have a '93 USDM Legacy Turbo.

Here's how to do it:

1. First, get the boot off. Pretty basic interior dismantling. Cake.
2. Unscrew the six screws that hold the metal framing plate and the rubber linkage protector to the chassis, and take off the framing plate.
3. Note the corner of the plate that is connected. This needs to be cut out to allow full height travel of the linkage. (since you will be moving the linkage up the shift lever) I cut mine with tin snips. It doesn't have to be fancy, as everything is covered by the shift boot.
4. With the tranny in the neutral position, unbolt the linkage from the shift lever.
5. Bring the linkage up as far as it will go until it hits the chassis at the far left corner. Bring it down a hair, and mark this position on the shift lever with a marker. I ended up with an approximate 5/8" height difference from stock.
6. Out with the lever. I was referencing the many i-club posts on how to get the nylon ball out of the socket, so, per instructions I just pushed down on it as hard as I could until it popped out. DO NOT DO THIS!!!! The nylon ball is much easier to get out, as I found out upon re-assembly. There is a spring-ring that holds the nylon socket where it needs to be. Just get a small needlenose pliers into each of the holes in the tabs and lift it out. Everything should just pop out relatively easy.
7. On to the grinding/cutting. You just need to "break" the existing welds more or less, so this is where you bust out the angle grinder or dremel, and cut the welds where the lever is attached to the linkage bracket. The bracket needs to be seperated.
8. Now would be a good time to cut any length off that you might not want. As I said before, I took off all of the threaded part of the lever, or about 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". A metal chop saw makes this real quick. Also, it doesn't hurt to grind down any sharp burrs or edges from the fresh cut. Also, if you feel like you need more of a bend in the lever, do it now. I didn't feel the need to.
9. Go ahead and weld the bracket into its new position, as per the mark you made before. Be sure you weld it on the correct side, away from the bend. Also make sure it is not upside down.
10. The finished lever should look exactly the way it came out, save for the seemingly minor (about 5/8") adjustment to the linkage bracket, and whatever you cut off of the top.
11. Re-install. Not too hard if you were there to see it come out. Remember that this requires virtually no force needed because of the ring-spring. Grease it up good, re-assemble the linkage and put that framing plate back on to secure the rubber linkage protector. Put your interior back together, and you're all set!

Conclusion:

Holy crap, I can't believe how good this turned out! The feel of the car has transformed almost completely with such a simple mod. The shifts are a hell of a lot shorter, feels stiffer, much more notchy, and best yet, it's free! It does require more effort to shift, but that's the very simple physics of a lever, the closer you are to the fulcrum, the harder it is to move the load. No rocket science here. Bottom line = It feels great, and I HIGHLY recommend it.

peaces
-mike

[EJ20impreza]

I did a similar mod, although mine was much less involved then yours. All I did was hacksaw the stock shift lever, and then re-tap the threads for the stock knob. I took a lot off, maybe 2" or more. (cant remember) I have to ugly rubber, ribbed type boot, and it looks better now. It looks much more compressed then before. The shift distance is definitely shorter also.

mike: Congrats on a successful DIY mod!

[Sir Yach-o]

yep thanks.

Any change at all, whether it be moving the linkage up, or the top of the lever (knob) down will help. I just decided to go all out because I had the time and resources.

I'm hoping to get pics soon, I've contacted dave about it.

-mike

[DLC]

Here's a link to the writeup on Legacy Central:

http://www.xmission.com/~dac/library/diy_ss.htm

[HomeSlice]

thats what i am looking to do thanks for the diy! is the wrx shifter any shorter then our oe shifters that we got on our bc's bf's? thanks jim

[Sir Yach-o]

Dave, thanks for the posting and orginization on the Library.

It makes a whole lot more sense with the pictures right next to the description.

Here's my piece of crap web page i'm working on to post more pics, it's got a photochopped picture/pictures of the shifter throw, 1st, 2nd, neutral, 3rd, and 4th gears.

www.geocities.com/siryacho/legacy

-mike

[DLC]

Homeslice: the WRX shifter is just as long as ours, that's why you see so many of them on eBay and i-club is because they're getting the STI setups.

Dave

[Aaron's ej22t]

i am going to be cheap and just cut the stock shifter. i am getting a momo knob and i am going to cut the shifter about 1/4 in below the threads. then, sand a little and put the new knob on.

[Aaron's ej22t]

. There is a spring-ring that holds the nylon socket where it needs to be. Just get a small needlenose pliers into each of the holes in the tabs and lift it out. Everything should just pop out relatively easy.

sir yacho, i am at this point, but don' want to break anything. is this all there is too it to get the shift lever out, so i can cut off the threaded section and put on my new knob. ? i tried what you said, but my needlenose pliers aren't small enough to get in those holes. i can't get it out.

thanks, aaron.

[Sir Yach-o]

Sorry for the delay, but I've been away from the net for a while.

As far as the ring-spring goes, I bet you could just use a pick set, or really any hook-type tool that fits in one of the holes and pull it out from one side. That little ring is VERY durable, and you'd be hard-pressed to break it. Even you bend it, you should be able to bend it back without trouble.

Getting it in might be a little harder, though. The full expansion of the ring is bigger than the hole it goes into, that's why it's nice to be able to compress it with the pliers when putting it back in.

But don't worry about it all, it's hard to break.

-mike

[Aaron's ej22t]

sir yacho, i got the ring off, but when i go to pull the lever out, it rises about 1/2inch up and then stops. it won't go any further. btw, i have a 92 turbo. thanks.

[Sir Yach-o]

Just pull it out... it'll pop out a bit...

If you look at the pictures on Dave's site, there's one of the assembly just as it comes out. There's two halves of a nylon/plastic socket (white) that are held together by two rubber o-rings, one on the top, one on the bottom. The o-rings are holding it in right now without the ring-clip, just pull straight up, and it'll pop out. Putting it back it requires no force, while getting it out requires some. Good luck

-mike

[Aaron's ej22t]

well, i finished mine. i just cut off about 2inches off the stock shift lever and put on a round momo knob. the whole setup looks real nice and it is definately a shorter throw. I would take pics, but have no camera.

[Sir Yach-o]

good to hear you finally got it, it's much easier to drive the car when the shift lever is in, isn't it!

-mike