Something I would like to do on my own.
I have room to do it
I have mic craftsman tools
Jack/ stands
What else will I need, anyone here done a write up with pictures on the steps?
Any tips?
Estimated time on completion?
Anything else I should service while the trans is out?
Any information would be a great help!
I wouldn't call myself a complete noobie when it comes to repairs but I am FAR from what some of you have done
Thanks
Clutch time, need help
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Re: Clutch time, need help
Are you removing the engine or transmission for the job?
Have engine hoist and/or transmission jack?
Have the umm 21mm (or is it 23mm) hex key to remove the pin from the engine/tranny?
check/replace the rear cam seals while you've got things apart too.
Have engine hoist and/or transmission jack?
Have the umm 21mm (or is it 23mm) hex key to remove the pin from the engine/tranny?
check/replace the rear cam seals while you've got things apart too.
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Re: Clutch time, need help
Stuff from personal experience to make life easier-
I usually remove the front axles when dropping the trans, gives you more wiggle room. Tools outside of what you should expect to have for a job like this:
Huge hex key for pin removal.
Spare 8mm bolt for pin removal.
Round punch for axle pin removal.
32mm socket for axle nut removal (optional - I prefer it for the wiggle room. Benchpressing a trans is a bitch on it's own without axles in the way).
chisel for separating engine and trans. Corrosion will make them stick.
PB Blaster.
A friend to help ensure you don't get crushed by a transmission.
Everything else is pretty much your normal 14mm, 12mm, stuff.
I usually remove the front axles when dropping the trans, gives you more wiggle room. Tools outside of what you should expect to have for a job like this:
Huge hex key for pin removal.
Spare 8mm bolt for pin removal.
Round punch for axle pin removal.
32mm socket for axle nut removal (optional - I prefer it for the wiggle room. Benchpressing a trans is a bitch on it's own without axles in the way).
chisel for separating engine and trans. Corrosion will make them stick.
PB Blaster.
A friend to help ensure you don't get crushed by a transmission.
Everything else is pretty much your normal 14mm, 12mm, stuff.
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Re: Clutch time, need help
honestly, if you can get ahold of a hoist... it's so much easier. Ive done a few tranny replacements in my car so time laps for me is about 8 hours, and that's with not remembering a few things...
If you choose to go the route of lowering the transmission, disconnect the driveline first. Also keep a pan under the back of the transmission as when you pull the driveline out of the back, it'll leak.
Remove the half shafts, as stated above, it's so much easier.
Are you buying a whole clutch kit? If not, make sure you get a new clutch release bearing and pilot bearing.
when putting everything back together, make sure you lube the shaft for the clutch fork, makes putting it back in easier. Also Put axle grease on your half shafts.
If you choose to go the route of lowering the transmission, disconnect the driveline first. Also keep a pan under the back of the transmission as when you pull the driveline out of the back, it'll leak.
Remove the half shafts, as stated above, it's so much easier.
Are you buying a whole clutch kit? If not, make sure you get a new clutch release bearing and pilot bearing.
when putting everything back together, make sure you lube the shaft for the clutch fork, makes putting it back in easier. Also Put axle grease on your half shafts.
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
Re: Clutch time, need help
No need to undo the 32mm nut on the wheel side of the CV shafts. Just undo the lower ball joint and the tie rod and swing the whole hub/strut assembly out to pull the CVs off of the trans.
Get the car a bit higher than most jack stands, it will make it ALOT easier to get the trans out from under the car.
Use GOOD sockets for the flywheel bolts if you take it off for resurfacing. They are low profile and cheap sockets sometimes don't make good contact, resulting in rounding them off.
When you discover the engine will only come off the transmission about an inch and then stops moving....you forgot the clutch pivot pin. It needs to come out first. Don't worry though, 75% of us made the same mistake the first time.
The cap for the clutch pivot pin is usually TIGHT. Prepare for it.
Assemble the throwout bearing and pivot pin completely before reinstalling the trans. It snaps together on it's own inside the bellhousing.
Don't try to save time by pulling just the front of the driveshaft. Just pull the cover at the rear diff and undo the flange under it first. It practically falls out after that.
If your planning on a WRX shifter, do it at the same time. The pin that holds the shifter adapter (that needs changing for a WRX shifter), is SO, SO much easier to remove when outside the car.
Get the car a bit higher than most jack stands, it will make it ALOT easier to get the trans out from under the car.
Use GOOD sockets for the flywheel bolts if you take it off for resurfacing. They are low profile and cheap sockets sometimes don't make good contact, resulting in rounding them off.
When you discover the engine will only come off the transmission about an inch and then stops moving....you forgot the clutch pivot pin. It needs to come out first. Don't worry though, 75% of us made the same mistake the first time.
The cap for the clutch pivot pin is usually TIGHT. Prepare for it.
Assemble the throwout bearing and pivot pin completely before reinstalling the trans. It snaps together on it's own inside the bellhousing.
Don't try to save time by pulling just the front of the driveshaft. Just pull the cover at the rear diff and undo the flange under it first. It practically falls out after that.
If your planning on a WRX shifter, do it at the same time. The pin that holds the shifter adapter (that needs changing for a WRX shifter), is SO, SO much easier to remove when outside the car.
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'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
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Re: Clutch time, need help
PhyrraM wrote: When you discover the engine will only come off the transmission about an inch and then stops moving....you forgot the clutch pivot pin. It needs to come out first. Don't worry though, 75% of us made the same mistake the first time.
HAHAHAHAHAHA Aint that the truth
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
Re: Clutch time, need help
-TWO Pry bars (big, medium)
-penetrant spray
-surface flywheel or replace (give the shop bit of time on this, maybe an hour if youre lucky)
-friend or two
-viable method for dropping trans onto floor...a free floor jack w/ a thick woof sheet on it works well
give yourself allll day
-penetrant spray
-surface flywheel or replace (give the shop bit of time on this, maybe an hour if youre lucky)
-friend or two
-viable method for dropping trans onto floor...a free floor jack w/ a thick woof sheet on it works well
give yourself allll day