Wheel Alignment DYO , works!

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volny
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Wheel Alignment DYO , works!

Post by volny » Sun Aug 02, 2015 8:54 pm

Hi folks,

Just a few words to say that I just did a wheel alignment by myself after replacing the tied rods, using the string method and it worked better than the shop did last time!

Booya, saved another 100$

Good thing since I'm doing more work next week on the car, and I'll be able to drive it till then!

Here's the best dyo link I found on youtube for the job:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6EllJTMrZs

"ANNNNND we're running red lights BUT ITS OK because we're important shooting videos. lmao" that got me laugh so hard! lol

Legacy777
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Re: Wheel Alignment DYO , works!

Post by Legacy777 » Sat Sep 12, 2015 3:21 am

That was a pretty good video! Thanks for sharing.

My steering rack seal is leaking and even though I have the parts I will probably try and find a used rack to swap in since changing those seals is a pain! So this will come in handy. Now I'm curious to see how my current toe settings are since I got it aligned not too long ago.
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
1997 Impreza OBS

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm

theflystyle
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Re: Wheel Alignment DYO , works!

Post by theflystyle » Fri Oct 16, 2015 9:00 pm

How is the geometry of the suspension altered when he raises the front of the car but leaves the rear on the ground. I would have rather seen him perform this with all four wheels touching the ground.
-94 Legacy L
-94 SVX LSi
-08 Legacy 3.0R

-And the list of things your should never say again...gets longer....

Legacy777
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Re: Wheel Alignment DYO , works!

Post by Legacy777 » Sat Oct 17, 2015 12:02 am

You know.....I've been thinking about this, and am not sure his method would work for a car that has rear wheel toe adjustments. If your rear wheels are not at 0 toe you won't get a true reading. I know there's a way to use string and adjust things, but not sure how or if you can compensate for the rear toe adjustment.
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
1997 Impreza OBS

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm

Alphius
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Re: Wheel Alignment DYO , works!

Post by Alphius » Sat Oct 17, 2015 4:40 pm

That guy's video is WRONG and DANGEROUS!

First of all, his string method will ONLY align the front wheels properly on a solid rear axle vehicle with no bent suspension components and no bent axles. In order to use the string method to align an independent suspension vehicle, you have to set your string up exactly square based on a measurement to the centerline of the vehicle. At that point, you can set toe properly front and rear by measuring from the string to the wheel as he does.

Secondly, the suspension must be loaded to measure toe. Suspension droop will significantly effect toe measurements, so if you do it up in the air, the toe will be significantly wrong with a loaded suspension. Also, to properly adjust toe with the suspension loaded you must do one of two things. Either roll the car back and forth at least 10 feet after adjusting and before measuring, or use a set of turn plates under the wheels being adjusted. In order to center the steering wheel after toe has been set, you can turn one tie rod in and the other out an equal amount without disturbing your alignment settings.

I do all my own alignments at home and have done so for years. I use a set of toe plates to measure total toe, and roll the car to settle because turn plates are expensive. You can't measure toe individually with this method, but I just measure that based on fender lines since I expect the bodywork on my car to be close enough to true centerline. Total toe is what's important for tire wear and handling, thrust alignment isn't so necessary, so if it's off a degree or two, no issue. The only reason I do that is because it's a royal pain to set up the string square based on suspension centerline.

I measure camber with an angle gauge against the hub or wheel surface on a verified flat floor, also not a 100% digital measurement but perfectly OK since I can get each side to +-.25* of camber pretty easily. Caster is non-adjustable on a Subaru, but I measure that with an angle gauge on a flat part of the strut body (for MacPherson strut vehicles) and can also get really close side-to-side on cars that support that adjustment. The harder way to measure caster involves measuring camber as the wheel turns a specified number of degrees left and right and using some math, but my quick-and-dirty way has been acceptable so far. Caster is easy to tune by slight adjustments followed by road tests to make sure the car doesn't pull to one side or the other, since caster is the predominant setting that causes pulling.

Once I'm all done, I'll sometimes take a vehicle in to Les Schwab for a free alignment check to make sure I'm doing OK. I've never had a car out of spec.

I use a set of Longacre toe plates like these, and a standard angle gauge.
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