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Alright guys, got the robtune in and having issues.

Starts but only the passenger bank is firing, also cel flashes, and corresponds with rpm..

I'm running a dohc 22 so I'm using gd coils.


####EDIT####

issues cured once I stopped, checked, and re checked my ignition wires. Seems I grabbed the wrong wires and sent cyl 2&4 to the old coil pack plug were I only get power for the gd coils. Whoops. Wired to the correct pins at smj to send all 4 ignitors to the og ignitor (5 wires, one is ground. Cyl 1&3 were sent there from factory) so I just re roughted the ignitor to coil wires (intercepted @ smj) and whalla...

So far so good, 550 tune is lots of fun. I think the ignition maps might still be a little advanced for over 16psi, fuel is deff spot on, high 10s low 11s afrs at 18psi (before it gets real warm) starts to knock over 16psi after a spirited drive.

I run a td06 20g, and a very MASSIVE fmic, so I know I have intake air temps under control.

Never figured out the cel flashing with engine rpm, it quite doing it after some run time.

Also codes 24 and 44 are in ecu with black connectors

As well as in d-check (green connectors)

24 and 44 are gone. Ecu pulls 43 in d-check and still no spark period for cyl 2&4...

Car is a 91l, converted to turbo. Ran perfect with no cels on ej22t ecu (na harness merged with map, wcs, wfv). Dual cam 2.2.

Ecu is robtune 550 20g ecu.

I believe the CEL blinking is acting like a knock sensor light. I know it's several pages long, but have you read through the rob tune thread?

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=43744

because of the way rob sets the ecu up for the knock light, any time theres a code in the computer, the cel will flash constantly instead of staying on steady.

Yes...the CEL flashing when in boost/pushing it is a 'knock light'...and it should go away after some time as the ECU learns the knock limits - but will still flash on occasion if you're under a heavy load / heat soaked (should not be an issue w/a FMIC)- mine still blinked @ me if I did a 5th gear pull -not a good idea anyway, so I don't.

If it doesn't calm down..something isn't right.


If it's blinking ALL the time that's other issues.

It was blinking constistantly with engine rpm (almost like it was blinking for a consistent misfire). The issue has since solved itself. I'm sure the ecu was just learning the Resistances of my harness as compared to the last car it was in..

I'm still having minor dettination issues over 16psi. Although I feel as if the ecu is getting better about knock control the more it learns..

OK I got a video of the flashing cel issue. Its random and only does it on a fresh start, after some idle time it comes back to normal.

Taken in the afternoon, the car drove and ran normal all day... After 15min it cleared up and no cel present


.....
15 min later
.....




And a fresh pic with the new tw.

Your AFR's in the first video were very lean. That also may be contributing to what the knock sensor is picking up. AFR's in the second video were richer.

Funny thing is the second video was just minutes after. Only thing that changed was idle time, she didn't even get completely warm before it just decides to come back to reality.. I'm lost on my "retard" mode (first vid). Just did a 250 mile round trip no issues...

Was the first video on first start up of a "cold" engine?

yes, although its not consistent with all cold starts... sometimes it will go days without issues and sometimes 2 or 3 times a day... its even done it on a hot start (much less common though)

If you are seeing the hyper flashing CEL, you the ecu is reporting a fault. You need to try to capture that fault. I know you mentioned that you have pulled code 43, but I don't think that is your issue. Code 43 is for an accelerator pedal switch that was only available for JDM cars. That code does not affect drivability and while it can be stored in memory, it should not trigger the light. From your report that it mostly runs as expected, it sounds like you have an intermittent sensor issue that the ECU is trying to tell you. It might help if you unplug the ECU for a few seconds to clear the memory and try again to retrieve the real code that is causing your troubles.



-Rob

Finally cured my random idle issues. I believe I had a faulty icv. I ended up swapping to a real ej20g intake so I'm running the 20g icv. All has been well!

Glad to hear things are working now.

Forgive me if you have already stated this somewhere else, but what fmic kit is that?

Its a modified gd wrx eBay kit actually. A friend originally bought it for his build 05 2l wrx. But decided against it. Its a 3.5" core and touches the top of my bumper.. My idle cel lean bs popped up again today after I changed my green label maf for a blue label svx maf (apexi AFCneo corrects scaling) but quickly extinguished itself. Much faster then normal...

Also on another note what is causing my 23psi ignition cut in my 550 robtune? Does the ej20g ecu cut ignition when maf voltage is maxed? Tuning on AFCneo so fuel nor detination are issues, if I can't get around this I'll stick some 650cc injectors and scale the maf down a touch.

Also for others info I've been watching maf voltage between the green label aa160 (20g) and the blue label aa200 (svx). Green maxed 4.8v at 18psi, blue hits approx 4.6v at 22psi.. I'd guess the svx blue label doesn't "max 4.8v" until 25psi'ish.

Just because different MAF's max out at different points does not mean they are interchangeable with some minor scaling.

This chart shows the Hitachi & JECS maf sensor transfer functions. Most scaling devices will scale the entire range, and just doesn't work well.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... ansfer.xls

It doesn't mean they aren't ether. Here in my situation, I'm trying to squeeze the last few psi that my td06 20g is good for, and do it without $1000s in standalone. Yes the AFCneo is not the best situation but it works. It converts air flow. AFC - air flow converter.. People stop at 18psi with the robtune because simply the air flow sensor is maxed. So get a bigger maf right? Duh!. Anyways I have video proof of my sedan happily running 22psi, no dettination, and plenty of fuel.. Simply with an apexi AFCneo, and a blue label svx maf. I'd run more boost but @ 23psi it hits ignition cut.. It would be nice to know what is causing this ign cut, as for my thought its ether the ecu seeing 4.8v in the maf loop, or possibly the actual map sensor on the strut tower seeing to much boost...

The point is its not my tuning or fiddling with maf sensors. I've dug tons more power out of the tune with the AFCneo and a bigger maf. The point is I'm limited by 23psi ignition cut, every time. And I don't want it to do that so its ether a FCD on the map sensor, or I need to up my fuiel psi or bigger injectors to get some head room back to keep the ecu from seeing 4.8v from the maf.

I don't doubt you can run more boost and get more power from the SVX MAF and AFC. If you look at the graphs I posted the curves start converging as airflow decreases. So if the AFC continues to equally translate the same voltage shift it did at higher voltages down to lower voltages, the chances are you will run richer than you should.

How is the regular day-to-day driving without being at max boost all the time? Also, how is your fuel mileage & AFR's?

Its still very daily drivable. It honestly runs better all around now (with AFC and blue jecs) then it ever did with just the robtune. I see mid 14afr cruising, and high 10s under load. No spits, studders or weird flat spots.. Fuel mileage has hardly changed.. I'm very pleased. Once I get it really dialed in I'll be hitting the awd dyno.

If you download the manual for the apexi AFCneo you'll see that the maf scaling is rather well constructed and very adaptable, I can ramp up my tune (can add or take up to 50%) by 500 rpm increments, as well as have low throttle and high throttle.. So let's say with just a blue maf the maf scale is pretty close to spot on under regular driving, Normal afrs as with the green maf. yet under load it begins to lean out (expected) you can tell the AFC that over xx% throttle and at xxxx rpm add this x% extra fuel.. The same can be done in reverse, let's say you have a blue label maf and an adjustable fpr. So you bump up your fuel psi to compensate for lean conditions in boost, but you now have a rich idle as well as rich conditions under normal driving, you can tell the AFCneo that under xx% throttle and up to xxxx rpms to pull x% of fuel.. Pretty cool stuff. My Nissan friends have been messing with them for years..

A little side not as I've found one other apexi AFCneo thread concerning our backwards tps voltage and the thing I have found is all tuning must be done backwards. High throttle setting is actually low throttle. As long as you always consider this tuning will be no problem. The AFC has no problem scaling backwards, just keep your maf maps backwards.

Well that's good to hear things are working well for you, I'm certainly happy to hear that. That opens up some additional doors and options.

Similarly, it's good to hear the Apexi AFCneo has the flexibility for scaling different sections of the rpm range and such.

Im still limited to 22psi. I believe its maf voltage related. In this case there is not much I can do until rob develops a z32 maf tune (q45 would be better, 90mm housing, a z32 maf fits inside a q45 maf). Although a z32 maf tune will require some bigger injectors, 650cc and a 750cc tune please! Lol