Bypass coolant tank?
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
Bypass coolant tank?
The nipple that goes to the turbo broke off on my coolant tank. How do I connect the hoses so that it will work without the tank? I dont care about the after cooling effect as I have a turbo timer... I looked at the diagram of the tank, but cant seem to make any sense of it.
98 Ford Contour V6 24V 5MT
98 Chevy Camaro Z28 LS1 6MT
91 Rio Red SS 5MT Sold
91 Flat Black Wagon L+ 4EAT RIP
91 Pearl White SS 4EAT RIP
98 Chevy Camaro Z28 LS1 6MT
91 Rio Red SS 5MT Sold
91 Flat Black Wagon L+ 4EAT RIP
91 Pearl White SS 4EAT RIP
-
- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
You still need a radiator cap, so you can't just connect the hoses differently.
I described how I took care of it here:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=124825
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=110153
This could help you make sense of what's happening:
http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/pics ... ooling.png
I described how I took care of it here:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=124825
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=110153
This could help you make sense of what's happening:
http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/pics ... ooling.png
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
Thanks for the reply. I just have a couple of questions. The bottom large hose on the coolant tank (coming from the water pump, I believe) gets connected to the coolant line going to the turbo, right? The nipple on the new cap gets connected to the overflow tank, now what about the other fittings on the coolant tank?
98 Ford Contour V6 24V 5MT
98 Chevy Camaro Z28 LS1 6MT
91 Rio Red SS 5MT Sold
91 Flat Black Wagon L+ 4EAT RIP
91 Pearl White SS 4EAT RIP
98 Chevy Camaro Z28 LS1 6MT
91 Rio Red SS 5MT Sold
91 Flat Black Wagon L+ 4EAT RIP
91 Pearl White SS 4EAT RIP
-
- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
Yes; that's correct. A brass 1/2"-barb elbow and a couple feet of 1/2" heater hose (to replace the tank-to-turbo hose) should do the trick neatly.91White-T wrote:The bottom large hose on the coolant tank (coming from the water pump, I believe) gets connected to the coolant line going to the turbo, right?
Right.The nipple on the new cap gets connected to the overflow tank
There's only one other fitting: the small one on the top of the back face of the tank, that currently goes up to upper passenger-side corner of the radiator. What I did was connect a piece of hose to that nipple on the radiator and put a ball valve at the end. This allows me to use it to fill the system and then block it off.now what about the other fittings on the coolant tank?
You might get away with just capping off the fitting on the radiator, but it may be hard to get all the air out of the system, since the radiator cap's not the at highest point.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
i just put a legacy engine in my impreza, and would like to use my 1.8L radiator if possible, i have the extra radiator tank but no way to connect the top hose to my radiator.......
what im understanding from you guys is that i CAN block off the return line??
would it be better to block that off, or to remove the tank and connect the lines like you said. (remember i have a radiator cap on my radiator so that part doesnt matter if i remove it)
thanks!
what im understanding from you guys is that i CAN block off the return line??
would it be better to block that off, or to remove the tank and connect the lines like you said. (remember i have a radiator cap on my radiator so that part doesnt matter if i remove it)
thanks!
-
- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
Which line are you calling the return line?
Keeping the filler tank will help protect your turbo's bearings, so you may want to try keeping it. The way to do this in your case is:
Take the cap on your radiator and cut away the lower gasket. Then, take some 5/16" fuel line and use it to connect the nipple on the radiator's filler neck to the small nipple on the back of the EJ22T filler tank. Then use any old 5/16" hose to connect the nipple on the tank's filler neck to the bottom of the overflow tank.
Keeping the filler tank will help protect your turbo's bearings, so you may want to try keeping it. The way to do this in your case is:
Take the cap on your radiator and cut away the lower gasket. Then, take some 5/16" fuel line and use it to connect the nipple on the radiator's filler neck to the small nipple on the back of the EJ22T filler tank. Then use any old 5/16" hose to connect the nipple on the tank's filler neck to the bottom of the overflow tank.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
Ok, I think I may have fixed the leak on the coolant tank, but now theres more problems. The expansion tank is bubbling, and the engine feels low on power, its also running a little hot, although not overheating. Now when the line blew on the tank, it dumped coolant all over the engine, cpould have have fouled the plug wire? I'm not ready to call the head gaskets blown just yet...
98 Ford Contour V6 24V 5MT
98 Chevy Camaro Z28 LS1 6MT
91 Rio Red SS 5MT Sold
91 Flat Black Wagon L+ 4EAT RIP
91 Pearl White SS 4EAT RIP
98 Chevy Camaro Z28 LS1 6MT
91 Rio Red SS 5MT Sold
91 Flat Black Wagon L+ 4EAT RIP
91 Pearl White SS 4EAT RIP
by return line i mean the line that goes from the tank to the radiator. since there is no spot for it on my radiator i plugged it like in someone elses picture with a bolt and hose clamp.
today i filled everything up, first in the radiator cap till it was full, then closed it, then filled the tank cap till it was full and burped it out of there. the engine was cooling fine i believe, all the lines were hot, and the heater worked. can i leave it like this? why do i need change the overflow line?
thanks!
today i filled everything up, first in the radiator cap till it was full, then closed it, then filled the tank cap till it was full and burped it out of there. the engine was cooling fine i believe, all the lines were hot, and the heater worked. can i leave it like this? why do i need change the overflow line?
thanks!
-
- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
By "burping the system" I just mean getting all the air out. Typically it involves some idling the engine with the cap off, squeezing various hoses, allowing some cycles of warming fully up to cooling fully down, some incantations to Ra...
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
right now i just have both stock .9 bar radiator caps on, i idled with the top cap off for a while till it started coming out. for the overflow, i just have rad cap from the rad going to it like it was for my 1.8, and i dont have anything for the top one yet, but ill just run a hose to the same spot eventually, hopefully it wont be overheating and wont need that...
-
- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
On modern cars coolant flows in and out of the overflow fitting on the cap neck all the time; the car doesn't have to overheat.
Also, in order to get the post-shutdown cooling effect of the filler tank, you need the tank's cap to be the only active one.
You can either do what I suggested above, or put a higher-pressure cap on the radiator and tee the two overflow lines together.
Also, in order to get the post-shutdown cooling effect of the filler tank, you need the tank's cap to be the only active one.
You can either do what I suggested above, or put a higher-pressure cap on the radiator and tee the two overflow lines together.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
-
- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
You mean the nipple on the back when you say "overflow nipple," right? Because the overflow nipple is the one on the filler neck.
But you've plugged the hole somehow, right?
Having the tank present is not improving your cooling. The fraction of a quart of coolant in the tank makes a negligible difference. And you're actually probably losing coolant out the overflow nipple that's not connected to anything.
But you've plugged the hole somehow, right?
Having the tank present is not improving your cooling. The fraction of a quart of coolant in the tank makes a negligible difference. And you're actually probably losing coolant out the overflow nipple that's not connected to anything.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
-
- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
The only fitting you'd need to get is a 1/2" hose joiner.
Even if you have a higher-pressure cap on the radiator, you should still tee the overflow lines together (just get a 5/16" tee and some 5/16" fuel hose). Caps open progressively, so there's still the possibility of losing coolant through the radiator's overflow fitting.
Even if you have a higher-pressure cap on the radiator, you should still tee the overflow lines together (just get a 5/16" tee and some 5/16" fuel hose). Caps open progressively, so there's still the possibility of losing coolant through the radiator's overflow fitting.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
-
- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
The only fitting you'd need to get is a 1/2" hose joiner.
Even if you have a higher-pressure cap on the radiator, you should still tee the overflow lines together (just get a 5/16" tee and some 5/16" fuel hose). Otherwise you'll be filling the top of radiator with air every time the system cools down.
Even if you have a higher-pressure cap on the radiator, you should still tee the overflow lines together (just get a 5/16" tee and some 5/16" fuel hose). Otherwise you'll be filling the top of radiator with air every time the system cools down.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
i thought by having the tank there, convection currents cause the coolant to keep flowing to cool the turbo after you turn the car off... so it IS improving my cooling right?vrg3 wrote:Having the tank present is not improving your cooling. The fraction of a quart of coolant in the tank makes a negligible difference. And you're actually probably losing coolant out the overflow nipple that's not connected to anything.