I went to the junkyard to pick up a driveshaft and possibly struts from a 92+ AWD wagon, forgot the 34 socket though and couldn't get to the struts otherwise.
Is that correct - I have to remove the axle nut and slide the axle out of the hub, in order to take the struts off?!
Also is it necessary to take off the rotor, parking brake assembly and the dust plate for more room to work the wrench?
Can I use 92 struts on my 91? what all do I have to take along?
Can I use 90 FWD struts on my 91? both are wagons....
The conpendium is a little too confusing for my empty head...
removing rear struts
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removing rear struts
Stock 1991 Legacy L+ AWD 5MT wagon 191k+ mi
no, you just unbolt the strut from the knuckle and the strut tower. You need 12 and 19mm wrenches and probably a breaker bar and some pb blaster. You need a spring compressor and some other stuff if you just want the strut.
Don't need to remove anything else.
you can use 92 struts but you need the entire assemblies
I don't see any problems with 90 fwd front struts. Might be a bit lower/softer.
Why would you need to take off the brake line?
V
Don't need to remove anything else.
you can use 92 struts but you need the entire assemblies
I don't see any problems with 90 fwd front struts. Might be a bit lower/softer.
Why would you need to take off the brake line?
V
Last edited by jamal on Tue Apr 04, 2006 1:40 am, edited 2 times in total.
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You shouldn't have to mess with the parking brake to get the strut off. I took off the calipers, brakets, and rotors for more room, also since you needs to remove the brake line. Other than that, it should be the two large bolts holding the strut to the knuckle, and the three nuts on the top-mount.
Mine is a '93, and I'm not shure if 90-92 was much different.
Mine is a '93, and I'm not shure if 90-92 was much different.
→Dan
piddster34 at h0tma1l d0t c0m
piddster34 at h0tma1l d0t c0m
I tried getting the socket onto the two nuts and bolts attaching the strut to the hub, but the CV was in the way of the nuts, and there is not much sense in loosening the bolts, there isn't much room to manuver a breakerbar...
I don't think I mentioned the brake line.
So if I want to take the whole assembly I do not need a spring compressor or straps. what are they used for anyways?
I don't think I mentioned the brake line.
So if I want to take the whole assembly I do not need a spring compressor or straps. what are they used for anyways?
Stock 1991 Legacy L+ AWD 5MT wagon 191k+ mi
Ummm, I'm confused. Removing the rear struts is cake.
1.The two lower bolts are above the axles-no need to mess with them.
2.Upper three nuts.
3.Remove clip holding brake line to strut, may have to bend it a little to get it all the way off. In the junkyard, just cut the brakelines if it's easier.
Not exactly in that order.
1.The two lower bolts are above the axles-no need to mess with them.
2.Upper three nuts.
3.Remove clip holding brake line to strut, may have to bend it a little to get it all the way off. In the junkyard, just cut the brakelines if it's easier.
Not exactly in that order.

'91 5MT SS-TD04, WRX TMIC, Bosal twin dump, Spec LW flywheel/pressure plate, FCD, Walbro fuel pump-RIP
'93 5MT N/A wagon, over 400,000 miles!-Gone, parts lived on
'94 Auto SS-vf24, WRX TMIC, Bosal twin dump, Meth kit coming soon!-Now RWD!
'93 5MT N/A wagon, over 400,000 miles!-Gone, parts lived on
'94 Auto SS-vf24, WRX TMIC, Bosal twin dump, Meth kit coming soon!-Now RWD!
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You can get your nuts off one way or another.
And you don't have to remove the rotors or anything else (except the wheel).
Yeah, use PB blaster liberally. Each one is a nut and bolt combo. One end is difficult to get to... but a simple open-ended wrench can get to it. Use the breaker bar (with a hinge) on the easy end. Put a 5 foot pipe over the handle of the breaker bar if you need to get more leverage (I did). When the nut and bolt start rotating together, put the open-end wrench over the difficult-to-reach end... watch the open-ended wrench rotate until it braces itself against something strong, then you can use the full force of the breaker bar to break it loose.
Once it's broken loose, it's best to turn the nut not the bolt. With the nuts off, you can coax the bolts out. You might want to have a rubber mallet and some sort of poker...but if you have to hammer the crap out of it that's a sign you're shredding the threads. Instead, you will need to shove the knuckle up or down while you're working the bolt out because the knuckle tends to pinch and hold on to the bolt's threads unless you shove it to the perfect angle.
At some point you'll have to disconnect the brake line and feed it through the bracket on the strut. As soon as it's unfed, you can reconnect it to the caliper to keep it from leaking everywhere. Brake fluid sucks, and so do the stupid washers where it attaches to the caliper..

Yeah, use PB blaster liberally. Each one is a nut and bolt combo. One end is difficult to get to... but a simple open-ended wrench can get to it. Use the breaker bar (with a hinge) on the easy end. Put a 5 foot pipe over the handle of the breaker bar if you need to get more leverage (I did). When the nut and bolt start rotating together, put the open-end wrench over the difficult-to-reach end... watch the open-ended wrench rotate until it braces itself against something strong, then you can use the full force of the breaker bar to break it loose.
Once it's broken loose, it's best to turn the nut not the bolt. With the nuts off, you can coax the bolts out. You might want to have a rubber mallet and some sort of poker...but if you have to hammer the crap out of it that's a sign you're shredding the threads. Instead, you will need to shove the knuckle up or down while you're working the bolt out because the knuckle tends to pinch and hold on to the bolt's threads unless you shove it to the perfect angle.
At some point you'll have to disconnect the brake line and feed it through the bracket on the strut. As soon as it's unfed, you can reconnect it to the caliper to keep it from leaking everywhere. Brake fluid sucks, and so do the stupid washers where it attaches to the caliper..
'00 Impr RS - sold
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
You don't have to open up any brake lines to do this. I replaced all four struts without touching the brake lines other than sliding the clip off the bracket on the strut and bending it slightly.
'91 5MT SS-TD04, WRX TMIC, Bosal twin dump, Spec LW flywheel/pressure plate, FCD, Walbro fuel pump-RIP
'93 5MT N/A wagon, over 400,000 miles!-Gone, parts lived on
'94 Auto SS-vf24, WRX TMIC, Bosal twin dump, Meth kit coming soon!-Now RWD!
'93 5MT N/A wagon, over 400,000 miles!-Gone, parts lived on
'94 Auto SS-vf24, WRX TMIC, Bosal twin dump, Meth kit coming soon!-Now RWD!
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Binford wrote:You don't have to open up any brake lines to do this. I replaced all four struts without touching the brake lines other than sliding the clip off the bracket on the strut and bending it slightly.

On my stock struts (on my 90 L Wagon AWD and on my 91 SS) as well as my Impreza AGX's the bracket was a closed loop that captured the brake line. There was no way to get the brake line out without threading it all the way through the hole. Maybe it's a model year thing.
'00 Impr RS - sold
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
Actually, I think your right. I'm a cheater, and I cut things.
You can cut a slit in the bracket with a hacksaw (careful of the brakelines), and then slightly bend it to get the brake line out. Reverse the process upon installation of the replacements. I guess not everyone is comfortable with this idea but it works for me. 


'91 5MT SS-TD04, WRX TMIC, Bosal twin dump, Spec LW flywheel/pressure plate, FCD, Walbro fuel pump-RIP
'93 5MT N/A wagon, over 400,000 miles!-Gone, parts lived on
'94 Auto SS-vf24, WRX TMIC, Bosal twin dump, Meth kit coming soon!-Now RWD!
'93 5MT N/A wagon, over 400,000 miles!-Gone, parts lived on
'94 Auto SS-vf24, WRX TMIC, Bosal twin dump, Meth kit coming soon!-Now RWD!
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I notched the bracket and zip-tied the brake lines in place. Worked just fine.
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2009 Impreza 2.5i Premium. Blue.
[quote="scottzg"]...I'm not a fan of the vagina...[/quote][quote="evolutionmovement"]This will all go much easier if people stop doubting me.[/quote]