update, so i run the line (rubber one) you see in front of the air box and connect it to where the arrow is on my boost gauge (it says connect to wastegate actuator) and connect the other side to the wastegate right?
AKA here
eh?
i know im not the only one on here too much
Zach - Legacy Frankenstin
93forestpearl wrote:Keep up the good work. You'll never know what you are capable of unless you push yourself.
you want to run from the arrow(where it says wastegate actuator) to the wastegate,and run boost supply to the other nipple. make sure you disconnect the lines to the boost solenoid.
I think the arrow is actually where you put the boost supply, and the other is the one for the wastegate. Can you take a clear pic of the writing on the controller?
I dumped the "t" that came with the controller because it has too much of a restrictor in it & caused big spikes - 20psi...
I used a plastic "t" with a 1/8 & 2 x 3/16's ends I got in a assorted box from autozone.
1 big end was connected to the turbo outlet
1 big end connected to the MBC in
Little end to the actuator
Other side of the MBC (top of your pic above) was left disconnected (its a bleed valve so needs to have 1 end open in order to increase boost), but you can connect it to the resonator/c-cup between the airbox & turbo if you like.
Make sure you start in the fully closed position which should be w/g boost if everything is connected OK.
Dont use that T. Directly under the wastegate is another nipple comming straight off the turbo. Plug that into the arrow, the arrow shows flow direction to the wastegate.
Dont use that T. Directly under the wastegate is another nipple comming straight off the turbo. Plug that into the arrow, the arrow shows flow direction to the wastegate.
Hope you have a boost gauge.
YEAH!!!!
finally!
thanks alot, oh.. i have a boost gauge
now to take some drifting videos
Zach - Legacy Frankenstin
93forestpearl wrote:Keep up the good work. You'll never know what you are capable of unless you push yourself.
At least you used the good zip ties. Now cut them flush, dammit! The telcom and marine mechanic in me is going nuts.
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
evolutionmovement wrote:At least you used the good zip ties. Now cut them flush, dammit! The telcom and marine mechanic in me is going nuts.
ha ha i know, for some reason.. i dont know why.. i tend to leave a little extra to cut my hands on all the time
i was in a hurry and i wanted to drive it.
but now i'm scared to drive it.. is this normal .
it still needs some fiddeling but i think im going to get gas before i do anything else
so far i've got 130 miles on 3/4 of a tank of gas... most of that is from when my self fab'd 90* inlet made of electrical tape and radiator hose pieces ripped apart, and i didn't know about it for 15 miles but it killed my MPG.
awesome
Zach - Legacy Frankenstin
93forestpearl wrote:Keep up the good work. You'll never know what you are capable of unless you push yourself.
if you like having gas in your tank dont. ha ha
but otherwise do, it's SWEET!
and one more one last thing, the line that goes from where my resonator would be, to the bottom of the stock boost control solenoid.
where should that line go with this new setup?
should it stay there because i didn't do anything with it..
This is the way it should look in your engine bay
This is the way it should look in your engine bay
Last edited by SubaruNation on Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:47 am, edited 3 times in total.
Zach - Legacy Frankenstin
93forestpearl wrote:Keep up the good work. You'll never know what you are capable of unless you push yourself.
SubaruNation wrote:
and one more one last thing, the line that goes from where my resonator would be, to the bottom of the stock boost control solenoid.
where should that line go with this new setup?
should it stay there because i didn't do anything with it..
Just remove it because you have bypassed that system, and its not required.
1994 ABM Sport Sedan-Not stock
1990 L series/turbo-Rally project
stipro's set-up is the correct way to connect this.
+ & - will work as they are supposed to & you will not get retarded spikes @ boost levels that should be held steady.
Subarujunkies's set-up will not work properly.
Fully closed "- " (less boost) on the knob will not allow air to pass to the actuator which is the same as disconnecting you turbo to actuator line - maxing out boost.
Open "+" (more boost) on the MBC will give you less boost, but you'll get a spike that tapers to actuator boost.
There is no way of getting around using the "t" - thats why it comes with the controller.