5mt out 6mt in
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
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- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3043
- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:14 pm
- Location: Twin Cities, MN
^ Its all about balls. Find a manual, read it, and dive in.
Anyways, if you took your time sourcing the parts and found good deals on everything, you could do it for under $3k in parts. An STi clutch should be good for a hair over 300 lb-ft to the wheels, so that's a place to start if you are pinching pennies. 3.90 rear diffs abound, if you can put up with an open one.
Or you can buy a new '07 6mt for around $3900, spend $1k on a clutch, yadda yadda, and have it cost a whole lot more.
Anyways, if you took your time sourcing the parts and found good deals on everything, you could do it for under $3k in parts. An STi clutch should be good for a hair over 300 lb-ft to the wheels, so that's a place to start if you are pinching pennies. 3.90 rear diffs abound, if you can put up with an open one.
Or you can buy a new '07 6mt for around $3900, spend $1k on a clutch, yadda yadda, and have it cost a whole lot more.
→Dan
piddster34 at h0tma1l d0t c0m
piddster34 at h0tma1l d0t c0m
'91 SS rear diff LSD into '94 LSI w A/T
It looks like I could put the rear diff I removed(LSD 3.90) into my daughters '94 Legacy with an automatic transmission.
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- Third Gear
- Posts: 935
- Joined: Sat Apr 14, 2007 12:20 am
- Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Not entirely correct. The 90-91 non-turbo auto's are 4.111.Arctic Assassian wrote:I had one in the shop today, as long as it's an auto or a turbo, it's got a 3.90. The manual N/A cars got the 4.11
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
unhappy w/Exedy clutch
Had the Exedy Sti stage one organic clutch 15803, and Exedy Lightweight flywheel(14lbs.), installed in June with the STi 6 speed. Now it is burnt. You have to be really carefull starting out in first gear not to ride the clutch at all or it will emit that lovely burnt smell. Not happy with the sound that the lightweight flywheel generates either.
So, am thinking about having them replaced with the ACT clutch, SB4-HDSS, and using a stock STi flywheel.
How about some thoughtful feedback. Thanks.
So, am thinking about having them replaced with the ACT clutch, SB4-HDSS, and using a stock STi flywheel.
How about some thoughtful feedback. Thanks.
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- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3043
- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:14 pm
- Location: Twin Cities, MN
Yeah I'm not sure about the LW flywheels. I like the fact they rev more quickly, but even with the 5spd it makes driving it much more of a bear, and I do find if I want to be remotely smooth, especially with the crap 02 WRX clutch I have in there, I have to slip the clutch, especially when it's cold.
I expect to have to either replace the clutch and/or possibly the transmission when I finally get the link in.
I expect to have to either replace the clutch and/or possibly the transmission when I finally get the link in.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3043
- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:14 pm
- Location: Twin Cities, MN
My Exedy has a 9lb flywheel, and the pressure plate itself is lighter than a stamped steel unit. I'm still on the fence about whether I like it or not. The 6 puck cerametallic with the light flywheel makes it much more of a bear to drive. I've gotten used to it though, and I only kill it every few days now. Since I haven't driven it in a hair over a month, I'd probably be back at noob status.
One thing I do really like about my clutch is that the pedal is lighter than the stock 6mt clutch. Personally, I like a light feeling clutch, but others like a heavy clutch. I do like the engagement of the 6 puck though. It feels very solid, and it laughs at me if I launch at 5k. My axles probably aren't laughing though....
One thing I do really like about my clutch is that the pedal is lighter than the stock 6mt clutch. Personally, I like a light feeling clutch, but others like a heavy clutch. I do like the engagement of the 6 puck though. It feels very solid, and it laughs at me if I launch at 5k. My axles probably aren't laughing though....
→Dan
piddster34 at h0tma1l d0t c0m
piddster34 at h0tma1l d0t c0m
Yeah I don't like a stiff clutch pedal. So that'd be something I might have to look into if I did do a 6MT swap.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
new clutch, flywheel
Just had a ACT clutch, SB4-HDSS, and a stock Subaru STi flywheel installed(19lbs.) Pacific Import Auto(PIA) in Parkland, Washington did the install, and did a fine job. The car is so much easier to drive and the gear rattle noise on decel is gone. With only 6k mi. on the old parts, Exedy stage one clutch and lightweight flywheel(14 lbs.), they were burnt. Kind of like having a new trans system now, I am very happy with it.
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- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8360
- Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
- Location: Tenino, WA
You most definately would have. I replaced a 90 legacy 4EAT tranny from the junkyard and I forgot to check the gear ratio because it was out of a 94 and the guy at the junkyard told me"They're all the same ratio 90-94". Dumbass. That was the last time I listen to those guys.93forestpearl wrote:You probably would have noticed before you got out of the driveway.
I put the tranny in and took the car for a drive and immediately there was a terrible grinding noise and you could feel the whole car shutter as I drove it down the street. I knew right off the bat that the junkard guy was full of shit. One of the cars was a 3.90 and the other was 4.111. I don't remember which was which but that car did not like that at all. After I put it the diff from the same car the tranny came out of it ran great. Still runs great except now I'm having issues with the starter not working. But for 2 years or so it ran great.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
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- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8360
- Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
- Location: Tenino, WA
Have never paid anyone to install something on anything before. One time I had a problem with my engine in my toyota pickup and my parents paid a shop to check it out. They charged us $180 just to look at it and they said they traced the wiring harness back to the ECU and found a bent pin that they fixed and told us the problem was gone.ciper wrote:lol Who on this site pays to install parts?
I drove it home all happy until I got a few blocks down the road and it went into closed loop and the problem was back again. They lied to us and took our money and I'll never pay someone to work on my car again. Until I'm too old to do it myself.
Several months later my clutch went out and I pulled the tranny to replace it and found a coolant leak on the back of the block and I tried tightening a bolt to stop the leak and it snapped off without hardly turning it at all. So I ended up pulling the motor to drill it out and helicoil it and while the motor was out I found the wiring harness was melted on the exhaust recirculation pipe by the intake! Those assholes did NOT trace the wiring harness and made some bullshit story about bent ECU pins and took my parents money! The ECU had never even been disconnected before we took it to the shop so how could they be bent?
I hate the automotive industry and don't trust any of them. Not just because of this either. They rip everyone off and I've heard several other stories of them screwing people over like this(different shops).
GRRRR!
/rant.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
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- Second Gear
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- First Gear
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Just thought I'd bump up this thread, good info. I'm really thinking about the STI 6 speed swap for my SS. Right now it's an auto and it needs a new transmission either way. I know the STI swap is more complicated but I would need to get all the parts that make it more complicated anyway being that I am coming over from an auto. Plus I already have the right drive shaft and speedometer gear. If I could get an 04-05 6 speed I wouldn't even have to touch the rear diff although it would be nice to get an R180 so my old R160 doesn't explode. Does the R180 have a VLSD or is it helical? This swap sounds perfect. I mean it would be $1,000-2,000 more than a regular 5MT but I think that's a faily good price considering the extra strength and reliability of the 6MT.
-Doug Wilson
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- Fifth Gear
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- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:14 pm
- Location: Twin Cities, MN
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- First Gear
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- Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2008 4:25 am
- Location: Fairbanks, AK
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I'm surprised you still watch this topic after like 2 years. How is your tranny holding up?
Is the R180 rear diff even worth it? It sounds like it would be a lot of work considering I already have the 3.9 fd ratio VLSD and the automatic driveshaft. I could leave my whole drivetrain from the tailshaft back stock which would be nice. I question the integrity of my stock R160 with 160,000 miles on it though.
Didn't you say you were waiting for yours to blow up before you swapped in an R180. Did it blow up?
Is the R180 rear diff even worth it? It sounds like it would be a lot of work considering I already have the 3.9 fd ratio VLSD and the automatic driveshaft. I could leave my whole drivetrain from the tailshaft back stock which would be nice. I question the integrity of my stock R160 with 160,000 miles on it though.
Didn't you say you were waiting for yours to blow up before you swapped in an R180. Did it blow up?
-Doug Wilson
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- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3043
- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:14 pm
- Location: Twin Cities, MN
I just look at the new posts each day
I'm installing an R180 because the VLSD I found for cheap and slapped in there was pretty much toast. With the back of the car off the ground, I could spin one tire 6-8 times before the other tire even moved. Plus the R180 is rebuildable, and the ramp angle can be changed for quicker lockup if desired. It's not coming cheap though. Between the diff and the STi axles to make this all work I'll have about $700 in it. I could have sprung for a Cusco diff or something like that, but pennies are pennies. I need to buy a bunch of paint for the new car, and Forest Pearl does not cover well.
If your VLSD is still working fine I'd stick with it for now. You can change that later if you need/want to. I ran for a year with an open 3.90 and the 6mt.
Personally, I have not heard of anyone breaking the ring gear or pinion in an R160, just spider gears. And you need to be making some serious power at that rate.
As far as my tranny goes, I haven't broken it. I worry about my axles more than anything, but my current tires (crappy Fusion HRi's ) spin if I'm trying to really get off the line. I don't really drag race the car, so I'm not too worried about it.
It had a rough 8k miles on it when I got it, and now it doesn't like a hard 1-2 shift when hot. Next winter I'll be going through it and replacing the syncros with the newer design from '06. I think the hub-engagement design also changed, but I'm not sure.
I'm installing an R180 because the VLSD I found for cheap and slapped in there was pretty much toast. With the back of the car off the ground, I could spin one tire 6-8 times before the other tire even moved. Plus the R180 is rebuildable, and the ramp angle can be changed for quicker lockup if desired. It's not coming cheap though. Between the diff and the STi axles to make this all work I'll have about $700 in it. I could have sprung for a Cusco diff or something like that, but pennies are pennies. I need to buy a bunch of paint for the new car, and Forest Pearl does not cover well.
If your VLSD is still working fine I'd stick with it for now. You can change that later if you need/want to. I ran for a year with an open 3.90 and the 6mt.
Personally, I have not heard of anyone breaking the ring gear or pinion in an R160, just spider gears. And you need to be making some serious power at that rate.
As far as my tranny goes, I haven't broken it. I worry about my axles more than anything, but my current tires (crappy Fusion HRi's ) spin if I'm trying to really get off the line. I don't really drag race the car, so I'm not too worried about it.
It had a rough 8k miles on it when I got it, and now it doesn't like a hard 1-2 shift when hot. Next winter I'll be going through it and replacing the syncros with the newer design from '06. I think the hub-engagement design also changed, but I'm not sure.
→Dan
piddster34 at h0tma1l d0t c0m
piddster34 at h0tma1l d0t c0m