Mine is too small :(

That spinning thing that makes all of the cool noises. OE and Aftermarket.

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Boostedballs
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Mine is too small :(

Post by Boostedballs »

My stock turbo, you silly bastards.
I installed a 40HP shot of nitrous and my boost creeps past 12psi and I hit fuel cut, or rather partial fuel cut because the N2O is a wet kit.

It is one hell of a ride though for that 4 or 5 seconds before this.
I need to get a bigger turbo and wastegate, I might switch over to a Garrett if I cant find a subie VF39 or something. I'll check the ads.

need to build the fuel cut defender in the mean time.

91SS 4EAT
Other mods: air/water intercooler, 150psi water inj, 3" exhaust,
Air-to-Water Intercooler, VF-39, 550 injectors, AEM FIC, stainless race header, 3" stainless exhaust, 75hp Nitrous, 150psi H2O injection, intake mods, stock: long block, 4EAT, ecm.
93forestpearl
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Post by 93forestpearl »

Aside from the other BS, I hope you have or are planning on the TransGo reprogramming kit for your SS 4EAT. Your tranny will appreciate it.


Things start to get complicated when you throw on much larger than stock turbos.
→Dan

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Post by GeneralTJI »

I use the 1 way vacuum valve with an mbc to allow the MAP sensor to still read full vacuum and some boost... works very well, very cheap as well...

Do you have a cooler on that tranny? I have found a tranny will survive much longer with a good cooler (not a tube and fin)...
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Boostedballs
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Post by Boostedballs »

That trans kit sounds interesting. I'll have to learn more about it. I was actually planning on a 5mt swap in the near future but my land speed car is taking up all of my time and money right now.
My wife's 97 Leg GT has torque bind real bad and I was just going to donate my 4EAT to the cause during the 5MT swap.

Trans coolers are awesome! That is- if you actually know how to install them. I have seen a lot of bone-head installations where the bone-head routed the trans pressure line into the cooler and then into the radiator cooler. = Cool the trans fluid, then heat it back up before it goes back into the trans...GENIUS.

ps: I had to use spell check to spell 'genius'.

I have scoured the JY looking for the perfect trans cooler for my turbocharged Harley and I have accumulated some really nice units.

As for now- My Legacy is sitting for a while. I did get a 40HP shot of NOS to run through it. It rocks! The problem is, the boost creeps up past 12psi and I hit fuel cut. I need to fool the MAP!
Air-to-Water Intercooler, VF-39, 550 injectors, AEM FIC, stainless race header, 3" stainless exhaust, 75hp Nitrous, 150psi H2O injection, intake mods, stock: long block, 4EAT, ecm.
94SS_Canada
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Post by 94SS_Canada »

the MAF?
FastRust
Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

Boostedballs wrote:Trans coolers are awesome! That is- if you actually know how to install them. I have seen a lot of bone-head installations where the bone-head routed the trans pressure line into the cooler and then into the radiator cooler. = Cool the trans fluid, then heat it back up before it goes back into the trans...GENIUS.
That's actually not quite so bone-head. Over cooling of trans fluid is also not good for the transmission. So that can be as critical of an issue as making sure not to overheat your trans fluid. Especially if you live in colder climates. Plus having the fluid run through the radiator allows the fluid to warm up to normal temp more quickly.

A temperature sensing valve/thermostat would be ideal.
Josh

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
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If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Boostedballs
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Post by Boostedballs »

Legacy777 wrote:
Boostedballs wrote:Trans coolers are awesome! That is- if you actually know how to install them. I have seen a lot of bone-head installations where the bone-head routed the trans pressure line into the cooler and then into the radiator cooler. = Cool the trans fluid, then heat it back up before it goes back into the trans...GENIUS.
That's actually not quite so bone-head. Over cooling of trans fluid is also not good for the transmission. So that can be as critical of an issue as making sure not to overheat your trans fluid. Especially if you live in colder climates. Plus having the fluid run through the radiator allows the fluid to warm up to normal temp more quickly.

A temperature sensing valve/thermostat would be ideal.
That's true but I guess I was looking at it from a racing standpoint. And real winter driving it is good to have a preheater for it. And a piece of cardboard over the radiator. I promised myself I would never live in a frozen hell (like Montana) ever again.
Air-to-Water Intercooler, VF-39, 550 injectors, AEM FIC, stainless race header, 3" stainless exhaust, 75hp Nitrous, 150psi H2O injection, intake mods, stock: long block, 4EAT, ecm.
Saskatoon Subaru
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Post by Saskatoon Subaru »

Boostedballs wrote:
Legacy777 wrote:
Boostedballs wrote:Trans coolers are awesome! That is- if you actually know how to install them. I have seen a lot of bone-head installations where the bone-head routed the trans pressure line into the cooler and then into the radiator cooler. = Cool the trans fluid, then heat it back up before it goes back into the trans...GENIUS.
That's actually not quite so bone-head. Over cooling of trans fluid is also not good for the transmission. So that can be as critical of an issue as making sure not to overheat your trans fluid. Especially if you live in colder climates. Plus having the fluid run through the radiator allows the fluid to warm up to normal temp more quickly.

A temperature sensing valve/thermostat would be ideal.
That's true but I guess I was looking at it from a racing standpoint. And real winter driving it is good to have a preheater for it. And a piece of cardboard over the radiator. I promised myself I would never live in a frozen hell (like Montana) ever again.



you don't know what frozen hell is.
2010 Impreza WRX - 265hp

1990 Legacy 267,000km(Rebuild complete 265,423km----March 9/2008)

1991 Legacy Turbo 180,000km
Boostedballs
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Post by Boostedballs »

frozen hell is -65F windchill. Snot freezes inside the nose and the blowing snow feels like a sand blaster.
Air-to-Water Intercooler, VF-39, 550 injectors, AEM FIC, stainless race header, 3" stainless exhaust, 75hp Nitrous, 150psi H2O injection, intake mods, stock: long block, 4EAT, ecm.
Innovative Tuning
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Post by Innovative Tuning »

There's no chance you're not also maxing out the MAF so you'll need to address that as well.
Boostedballs
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Post by Boostedballs »

Well, I decided to just port the wastegate a little bit on the stock VF-11. Since I upped my nitrous shot to 60HP, I can only use it through 1st and 2nd gear, then fuel cut. I was able to pull a 14.1 at PIR though. It's a bummer to have to let off the nitrous.

It should be interesting to see how long I can spray the nos with the "bigger" wastegate.

I also installed one of those ebay one-piece headers with the flex coupler near the collector, that should give me a little somethin' at the strip.

Also, I am almost done building the DIY fuel cut defender by Vakash.

I'm hoping to report some 13 second times soon! But right now, I have a bit of a smoking issue (and habit) after replacing a broken plastic tube that extends into the turbo inlet. I tried to get away with making the piece straight cut, rather than angled down towards the compressor wheel. I should just stop messing around and delete that whole plastic box crap and run the MAF at a 45deg with a smooth transition right into the turbo.

-About the MAF- I don't think I'm maxing out the MAF with the nitrous, I'm maxing out the MAP. The nitrous adds it's own "air" to the system that the MAF never has to deal with.

PS: the wife's 97 Legacy is still having torque bind (in a big way) even after 2 bottles of GM LSD treatment. The AWD fuse does nothing about the bind in her car so I think the clutch plates must be jammed together or something. Also, I thought I read something about the 15" wheels not being able to fit on the cars that came with 16" wheels. This is incorrect; she has been driving on my stock turbo legacy wheels and tires for about 1000 miles now with no issues.
Air-to-Water Intercooler, VF-39, 550 injectors, AEM FIC, stainless race header, 3" stainless exhaust, 75hp Nitrous, 150psi H2O injection, intake mods, stock: long block, 4EAT, ecm.
BXSS
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Post by BXSS »

NICE!

I've been thinking of A 50 shot to spool up my SS once I get the tranny stuff (High stall converter, V-body modded / trans go kit, & shift controller all bought & put on the car...
94 Legacy SS
96 Impreza OBS
99 Impreza OBS-T
04 Sienna XLE Limited AWD
Boostedballs
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Post by Boostedballs »

BXSS wrote:NICE!

I've been thinking of A 50 shot to spool up my SS once I get the tranny stuff (High stall converter, V-body modded / trans go kit, & shift controller all bought & put on the car...

Just make sure you have a better than stock fuel pump. I am running the Walbro 342GS or something like that, it's 255lph.

I don't think an intercooler is necessary for the nitrous shot.

I am running the stock 4EAT and torque converter. I owerbrake on the line and hit the NOS right after my foot comes off the brake. That gives me a 1.84sec 60' time. I think a high stall converter will just make the car less drivable on the street with minimal gain at the track. Not to mention driving on the ice could get a little scary with a high stall converter.

I would like to do the v-body and trans-go. What is that likely to cost?


PS: I got the ported VF11 installed and tested with the new 3" stainless exhaust. I'm not happy with the results now. The boost is rock solid at 11psi and the car feels a bit slower. The boost creep was giving me more power! HAHA.
I have a VF39 on the way and I built the FCD from Vakish to get the boost up around 15psi. It's gunna be a thrill! I'll wait until after the road trip to Bonneville salt flats on Friday. No since in blowing the car up so I can tow it 12 hours back home...
Air-to-Water Intercooler, VF-39, 550 injectors, AEM FIC, stainless race header, 3" stainless exhaust, 75hp Nitrous, 150psi H2O injection, intake mods, stock: long block, 4EAT, ecm.
Boostedballs
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Post by Boostedballs »

I just got off the phone with a guy at TRANSGO. He said that the kit for the Subaru is the one that is used by the NISSAN. SKRE4R01A.

He said that this is the most complex kit they sell. He said they don't warantee it without professional installation. He also said this is the kind of kit that would be installed during a full rebuild. It seemed like he was trying to NOT sell me on the kit.

Hmm, I guess I'll search for something that is just a valve body thing...

poopie :?


OK- Here's a v-body kit from Level 10- at $200

quote from their site:

"We done it again! The first Subaru Performance valvebody kit.This will make your automatic shift fasterner than a manual .YOU WILL NEVER MISS A SHIFT!"

FASTERNER? I wonder if they put the same level of "attention to detail" in their parts as they put into their website?????

I think I'll keep looking...
Air-to-Water Intercooler, VF-39, 550 injectors, AEM FIC, stainless race header, 3" stainless exhaust, 75hp Nitrous, 150psi H2O injection, intake mods, stock: long block, 4EAT, ecm.
gijonas
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Post by gijonas »

LOL!! "we done it again"
94SS.Wiseco forged pistons,TD04,TMIC,WALBRO 225,440's,3" all the way,revtronix stage 2,enough other crap to fill the internet.

THE TRIBUTE BUILD>>>LINKY LINK>>> http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=295455#295455
93forestpearl
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Post by 93forestpearl »

You are correct in that the reprogramming kit is for professional installation. Keep in mind that some easy to instal "kit" or worked over VB for $200 is not going to compare to the real deal. The SS tranny is is the same as what is used in some Nissans. The pickup, 300zx, etc.



If you want to go fast with an auto, it is going to cost as much as going fast with a manual.
→Dan

piddster34 at h0tma1l d0t c0m
SubaruNation
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Post by SubaruNation »

Boostedballs wrote:
Legacy777 wrote:
Boostedballs wrote:Trans coolers are awesome! That is- if you actually know how to install them. I have seen a lot of bone-head installations where the bone-head routed the trans pressure line into the cooler and then into the radiator cooler. = Cool the trans fluid, then heat it back up before it goes back into the trans...GENIUS.
That's actually not quite so bone-head. Over cooling of trans fluid is also not good for the transmission. So that can be as critical of an issue as making sure not to overheat your trans fluid. Especially if you live in colder climates. Plus having the fluid run through the radiator allows the fluid to warm up to normal temp more quickly.

A temperature sensing valve/thermostat would be ideal.
That's true but I guess I was looking at it from a racing standpoint. And real winter driving it is good to have a preheater for it. And a piece of cardboard over the radiator. I promised myself I would never live in a frozen hell (like Montana) ever again.
406 FTW!
:smt027
Zach - Legacy Frankenstin
93forestpearl wrote:Keep up the good work. You'll never know what you are capable of unless you push yourself.
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