kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

[kimokalihi]

Already started. You saw that first ground right? I also mentioned how I was upgrading the poor body ground and I am going to replace the pathetic ground from the tranny to firewall which is in terrible shape.

[kimokalihi]

This wire tuck inspires me. I must resist though as it will only set me back further. I saw some pretty cool engine bay mods over on NASIOC including my favorite, running the brake lines through the windshield wiper motor bay and deleting the ABS.

[fatgc8]

Honestly Kimo, You need to get your car running already lol. Just remember when you actually get your car running your going to run into a whole new set of problems and bugs. I would say do this first and then go back and take care of the little things you want to get done. Trust me I've done the swap and spend another month chasing problems and changing stuff around.

[Legacy777]

The rear wagon bottle may work.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... bottle.jpg

[kimokalihi]

What I'm wondering is do you think the rear pump is as powerful as the windshield wiper pump?

[93forestpearl]

This wire tuck inspires me. I must resist though as it will only set me back further. I saw some pretty cool engine bay mods over on NASIOC including my favorite, running the brake lines through the windshield wiper motor bay and deleting the ABS.

Tucking wires and lines looks nice and all, but working on it after the fact sucks ass. Keep that in mind.







The GM washer fluid pumps typically have a pretty good flow rate. The cars with the nozzles that fan the spray out need some good pressure and flow to do that. Plus, they are cheap from your local bone yard.

[kimokalihi]

Is the windshield washer pumper more powerful than the rear window pump because it has 2 squiters or does the rear one have 2 squirters too? Also do you think they're interchangeable?

[evolutionmovement]

The rear is a single squirter. No idea about the rest. You could probably swap them out, but that's a guess.

[kimokalihi]

That's what I'll probably try. I might hit up the junkyard tomorrow before work. If I go to bed early tonight... I'm getting sad though because the junkyard I've been going to for years because it's close and they have amazing prices is slowly running out of legacy's. They used to have like 15 of them. Now there's 4 or 5.

[kimokalihi]

Got off early from work last night and ate a bowl of shredded wheat and got to work on the subaru. Nothing major just some small things.

I started off by looming the LC-1 wiring and the boost gauge hose together. Then I ran it through a factory grommet in the firewall hidden just below the brake booster.







The harness here is a birdsnest and it's really bothering me. I'm thinking about cutting it apart again and rerouting it to clean this area up. It really made removing the clutch slave cylinder a pain in the ass. Made a 5 min job into a 30 min job.







I haven't decided whether I want my gauges above the stereo or where the heater vents are. I like them better where the vents are but I'm not sure if I want to sacrifice those vents so I'll probably put them above the stereo. I just need to find a kit for my stereo and it's not looking like anyone really carries them online anymore.









Removed this AC unit (don't know what it does) and the line coming off it. Will remove the rest of the system if I decide to abandon the idea of making it work someday.









Since the turbo is out I figured I might as well replace the old oil drain hose.










Upgraded another pathetic ground from the tranny to the firewall.










Video of the plunger on my master cylinder after I removed it. I don't know how it's supposed to feel normally but it's quite loose.

[kimokalihi]

UPS just came by and dropped off a package and also woke me up after only being asleep for an hour GRRRR! Now I have a headache and I need to go back to sleep.

Guess what is here though? Brand new Subaru OEM clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder!








The plunger feels nothing like the old one. The old one has no resistance and this one if you push it in it pops right back out. I'm quite sure my assumptions that the seals were bad in the old one were correct. I'm already glad I didn't waste anymore time bleeding that stupid thing and trying to adjust it.

[cj91legss]

good good, so you're almost ready for the show?

[93forestpearl]

On that ground cable, what kind of connectors did you use and how did you crimp them? I'm looking at stuff for mine.

[kimokalihi]

I am almost ready for the show! 95% Maybe

As for the connectors I used regular car audio 4 gauge ring terminals. I clamped them with my crimping tool on a couple wires and then on that last firewall to tranny I used the vice. Then heat shrinked them to try to keep them from corroding.

Here's the ring terminals. They're a bit on the expensive side for what they are and I don't use the stupid rubber things they come with. I need to find some 4 gauge ring terminals with a larger hole so I can run a larger bolt through them. The one that appears to be holding the bumper supports to the body right in front of the battery. That's where I'm going to run my upgraded battery to body ground that's behind the headlight. Gotta find the larger ring terminal though and still 4 gauge.

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-Gauge-Cri ... 148&sr=8-1

[Legacy777]

Then heat shrinked them to try to keep them from corroding.

Just an FYI, if they're gold plated terminals, they should not corrode.

[kimokalihi]

Wasn't worrying about the terminals lol. I was talking about the cable. Thanks though.

[kimokalihi]

Stopped by the junkyard and grabbed the rear wiper fluid reservoirs out of the last 2 legacy wagons they have left.







The rear wagon reservoir doesn't really fit in the bumper/fender. It's too long. I could have made it fit if I had no other option but I didn't because the engine bay bottle fit much better and I had already drilled the holes to mount it.

I need the hose though so I cut the filler neck off, cut a new hole in the other reservoir and epoxied the filler neck on.










This epoxy rocks. Sets in 5 mins, hard in 10. Super strong. I used it before for something and had plenty left over.










Finished product. As haggard as it looked while I was doing it, it turned out really well and it's rock solid.









Cut the connector for the pump off and lengthened it.







Re-routed the wiper fluid hose through the fender. Need to source a long hose to reach the reservoir. Can I use vacuum line?

[kimokalihi]

After running the washer fluid filler neck through the hole in the fender wall I didn't have room for the starter power and engine ground harness. Grabbed my Hitachi and a hole saw bit and took care of it.







I usually hit bare metal with a few coats of clear and call it a day but this was in a tight spot and I couldn't get the can to spray at that angle so I mixed up some more 5 min epoxy and sealed it right up!







Even though my bettery terminal clamps won't be here until July 6th I hooked up the body ground. Dan was asking how I crimped the ring terminals. I used a vice with a punch in it so I would only crimp about 2/3 of it and that way the end of the wires wouldn't be compressed and the idea is that it would be harder to come loose that way.










Battery sitting in place. I need to get a tie-down for it but it's almost done. Harness is routed through the new hole and the washer fluid filler neck is zip tied in place.







Nice colored moth that landed on my hood when I was closed it before I went home.

[kimokalihi]

New clutch Master and Slave.







Installed and bled. Still had the same problem with the clutch not functioning and the pedal stays down unless you pull on it then it pops back up all the way.








It was after bleeding the clutch and adjusting the bracket (both of which did no good but I could see the plunger trying to push the fork) that I decided to pry on the fork with a pry bar and it wouldn't budge! So I pulled it the opposite way towards the front of the car and it moved by hand.

Now I have a problem. Not happy about it either because I am almost 100% positive I have to pull the transmission or the motor now. I was so damn close. This sucks. Either the transmission is pull style or the WRX clutchmasters flywheel is pull style. I think I used the clutch fork that came on this car but I'm not sure.

Anybody know for sure what style transmission the 97 JDM forester has? Also can someone confirm if this clutchmasters WRX lightweight flywheel is push or pull?

Any ideas on where to go from here? I'm pretty bummed at this point.

Here's a bunch of pics I dug up of the WRX CM lightweight flywheel, the 91 turbo legacy Exedy clutch kit, the stock forester clutch and the trans when I cleaned it.




















Video of the clutch fork operation. Clutch fork moves like a pull style. It's really dark for some reason. It wasn't nearly that dark before I compressed the video. You get the idea though.

[evolutionmovement]

Good idea for the crimp. Especially where the actual tool isn't cheap. Luckily, I got mine for free when my company shut down. That bottle looks like it belongs there. Is the filler solid mounted or loose?

[kimokalihi]

Semi-solid. Just the two bolts that go in the top. It's up against the bumper skin and it's rock solid. I tried wiggling it and it doesn't move at all. Which is good. I really didn't want to hear that thing rattling around going down the road.

[kimokalihi]

I'm confused. I don't know where push style clutch means the slave cylinder pushes on the fork to disengage the clutch or that the throw out bearing pushes on the pressure plate to disengage the clutch. Either way something is not right. I either fucked something up installing it or I have mismatched parts.

Are the transmissions designated "push"/"pull" style or is that just the clutch and clutch system? Lot of questions but I'm trying to get a grasp on this whole mess so I can deal with it as quickly as possible.

One more thing. When I moved the fork by hand it moved through the motion but didn't feel like it disengaged the clutch at all. I doubt I could do that anyway by hand. Could it be that it the throw out bearing just isn't seated in the pressure plate? Could I be that lucky...or ignorant.

[cj91legss]

hey when you mated your engine to your transmission did you have the clutch release bearing on your transmission/clutchfork or did you have it mated to the pressure plate? it needs to be mated to the pressure plate. If you need a hand i wouldn't mind coming by

[MikeyMeyagi]

if you take the slave cyl off, push the clutch fork tward the rear of the car as hard as you can and listen for a click... you would feel it too... the throw out bearing prob isnt engaged in the PP. you have a pull type clutch, that refers to the action of the throw out bearing on the pressure plate.

[dscoobydoo]

I saw the creation of the wiper tank in the fenderwell. The JDM GC's have something that is an exact fit the fits the BC's as well. It is a coolant overflow tank, but would have worked perfect for what you were doing. Even fits in that spot.