Joe's 93 RHD Legacy Wagon Build

[Legacy777]

Did you remove the shift lock computer and jumper pins 11 and 12 of B15 trans connector?

[Sublimejoe]

NOpe, sure didn’t

Would that prevent it from cranking?

[SILINC3R]

Not sure what turbo you are running but if you use the Jen td04 it will have the 90 degree elbow aspart of the compressor

[Legacy777]

NOpe, sure didn’t

Would that prevent it from cranking?

Jumpering pins 11 & 12 together would prevent the car from starting. Removing the shift lock computer would typically not allow you to remove the key from the ignition, however I suppose it could also prevent the car from starting.

Have you read over my swap write-up and specifically the electrical section?

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... rical.html

[Sublimejoe]

I am about to re-read the electrical section now.

Interestingly enough, I did notice that my key is now stuck in the ignition, and the guy who helped me with swapping the motors said his is stuck too but he did not know why. I don't think I removed the shift lock computer though, I didn't do anything to the ECU and the other ECU looking piece under the dash.

Edit: Looking at the info on your page now, it seems that I should probably unplug and remove the TCU. Correct?

[Legacy777]

Yes, remove your TCU and remove the shift lock.

At a bare minimum, here is what you should do:

• Cut or add a wire for the MT/AT identifier pin (depending on what your car had originally)
• Jumper pins 11 & 12 of the B15 transmission connector so the car will start
• Wire up the reverse lights
• Wire up the transmission neutral switch (note my comment about snipping the pin 18 wire of the B36 connector so the "N" bulb doesn't illuminate)
• Remove the shift lock controller
• Remove the TCU

[Sublimejoe]

Awesome, I am hoping to have some time this weekend to work on it. Thanks so much!

My new radiator came since the old one wouldn't work anymore.

Another issue I have run into is the headers won't fit because I still have a turbo crossmember. Any suggestions?

[mike-tracy]

Headers? Or factory exhaust manifold? There is a JDM NA manifold that's shaped like a turbo one, and fits a turbo x-member. Then you'd still likely need to get your cat section welded and lengthened. Probably your cheapest option, short of switching back to an NA x-member, is having a welder make your exhaust work.

[Sublimejoe]

Either one would work. What I have now is the factory non turbo exhaust manifold and it definitely hits the crossmember. Any idea what year that turbo shaped NA manifold is for. I am ok with getting the cat section welded.

[mike-tracy]

Yeah it's from early 2000s legacy. Looks just like a turbo manifold. Speaking of which, if you removed the down pipe, you could accomplish the same thing with a turbo manifold and a welder

[Sublimejoe]

Like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/96-99-Subaru-L ... 0105!US!-1


I already sold the downpipe actually.

[mike-tracy]

You don't need the down pipe. And no, that pic is of a USDM ej25d manifold

[mike-tracy]

Like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Subaru-Imp ... Sw4NZa2odD

[Sublimejoe]

Here is where I am at. A friend is bringing over a bunch of random parts that I need later today, will update afterwards!

[Sublimejoe]

My buddy came by with a bunch of stuff for me! Checked off a handful of things on the list, cleaned some of the airbox components and popped them on for a quick pic:





Updated List:

[Sublimejoe]

Today I wired up my power folding mirrors. I couldn't find a thread that detailed it, but I probably missed. So here is how I did it.

Original 1993 Postal Wagon mirror on right, 1993 Subaru Liberty AUSDM mirror on the left.


The Power Folding mirror has two extra wires, Brown/Grey & Grey. I added a wire to each so I can run it all with the other wires to the folding mirror connector behind the dash.

[Sublimejoe]

Wired and connected the alternator today:


Also finally was able to remove my steering column surround without breaking it, so I could get to the key interlock controller. As soon as I took the cover off, the key was no longer stuck and im not sure why. Also, the diagram that I am working from does not look exactly the same as mine.

Diagram:


My setup:


I imagine that wire is for the solenoid and I can just unplug it, correct?

[Sublimejoe]

My friend brought over another header for me to try out and it did not fit with the turbo crossmember. I went ahead and ordered this 02 WRX header and will fab a piece where the Up-Pipe should go that connects to my midpipe.



I also attached throttle cable to gas pedal and throttle body, so that works now. The fans that I have from a 95 Legacy are just a touch too big for the radiator I have, so I need to figure that out.

[Sublimejoe]

Ok, a couple things.

1. I cannot find the shift lock controller anywhere under dash. Is it the little box that has the pin on it to release the key? If it is, mine is different than in the manual or Josh's writeup.

2. I need to cut the MT/AT identifier wire.

3. Which one of these is the B15 trans connector, and what is the bottom connector?

[dankberries]

The 4 pin connector is likely for reverse lights.

[Sublimejoe]

Awesome, thank you

[Sublimejoe]

It seems my ecu does not have a wire going to pin 20 on the b48 connector. Josh, I see you said to snip OR add a wire, but where should that added wire go?

[Sublimejoe]

Another issue I have run across today. I went to snip the wire going to pin18 of the B36 connector and unless I am mistaken, I do not have this wire either:



These wires are coming from the manual transmission:

[Sublimejoe]

I think I was looking at the connector diagram upside down or something. But either way, I jumped pins 1&4 of the B15 trans connector and now the cluster is showing the car is in neutral! It still does not crank, but thats a step in the right direction.



I used some jumper cables to see if the starter is working, and it indeed is working.

Main issues right now:

Pin18 on B36 does not have a wire going to it
Pin20 on B48 ECU connector also does not have a wire going to it

[Sublimejoe]

I tested the starter again, the gear is definitely turning but it is not engaging the flywheel.