Replaced suspension leads to goofy steering?
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Replaced suspension leads to goofy steering?
So i replaced the front 2 struts and springs and a funny problem has surfaced. Car will be off allignment about 5 degrees to the left, give it a hard jerk, and it tracks correctly. Make a left turn, and allignment is off 5 again.
This sounds like a sticking steering rack, but it immediately surfaced upon replacing suspension. I dont know of any toe changes that could be affected by my work. I've seen the same problem surface when an allignment related bolt was loose, but i can't figure out which bolts to be looking at, any ideas?
This sounds like a sticking steering rack, but it immediately surfaced upon replacing suspension. I dont know of any toe changes that could be affected by my work. I've seen the same problem surface when an allignment related bolt was loose, but i can't figure out which bolts to be looking at, any ideas?
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I checked the conical washers, they're in correctly. Phooey. I had the car alligned and both right wheels were out of spec, it's freshly alligned but now the steernig wheel is 5 degrees to the right after i make a right turn. As before, when i make a left turn it goes back to spec and is perfect. I'm going batty. Any ideas?
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Hmm... Almost sounds like you've got some damaged tie rods...
How does the steering feel? Kind of "floaty" (not necessarily loose, but just a bit less steering response as you are used to)?
Are there any noises?
It would seem to me, that if the toe is constantly changing, you've got a tie rod issue.
It surfaced with the new struts because of the lack of compliance with the new, less worn, struts. The old setup had so much play (which, to you, may not have seemed like much) that it allowed enough movement to prevent something from occuring. Newer, stiffer struts (less worn = stiffer, in terms of shaft play and bushing wear) caused slightly more shock to be transmitted to the suspension components, thus magnifying a problem that you didn't know about before.
I think of it like the Honda Syndrome. A non-maintained 79 Accord will last forever. Enough things are broken to create a homeostasis in the car. Fix one thing, and other problems surface.
How does the steering feel? Kind of "floaty" (not necessarily loose, but just a bit less steering response as you are used to)?
Are there any noises?
It would seem to me, that if the toe is constantly changing, you've got a tie rod issue.
It surfaced with the new struts because of the lack of compliance with the new, less worn, struts. The old setup had so much play (which, to you, may not have seemed like much) that it allowed enough movement to prevent something from occuring. Newer, stiffer struts (less worn = stiffer, in terms of shaft play and bushing wear) caused slightly more shock to be transmitted to the suspension components, thus magnifying a problem that you didn't know about before.
I think of it like the Honda Syndrome. A non-maintained 79 Accord will last forever. Enough things are broken to create a homeostasis in the car. Fix one thing, and other problems surface.
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Plausible, but i kind of doubt your hypothesis. I replaced the struts but not the springs the first go around with eastbaysub (didnt have correct spring seats) And the steering was fine. Unless i damaged my tie rods during the second install, they should still be fine. Yea, it's a little floaty. It's a little tough to tell exactly how floaty because of that $%^ #$% #@$%ing speed sensitive steering.
Definately worth checking out though; I'll have to check them out.
Definately worth checking out though; I'll have to check them out.
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Well, swapping struts won't change toe. It can change camber (off-camber can cause dartiness under braking and such, but not the wheel being off), but toe is a function, mainly, of the tie rods.
If you installed the struts CORRECTLY (which I have no doubt that you did), then there are only a few different options.
It could also be bad strut tops. It's perceivable that flexing of tops, could change toe slightly.
That's worth checking as well.
If you installed the struts CORRECTLY (which I have no doubt that you did), then there are only a few different options.
It could also be bad strut tops. It's perceivable that flexing of tops, could change toe slightly.
That's worth checking as well.
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Strut tops look healthy.
I'm beginning to wonder if i bent some random nonrelated suspension component when i had my 6 foot metal pipe ratchet extension on those strut bolts. I'll be sticking my head under as someone steers tommorow.
I'm beginning to wonder if i bent some random nonrelated suspension component when i had my 6 foot metal pipe ratchet extension on those strut bolts. I'll be sticking my head under as someone steers tommorow.
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Found it. The rack was walking again, but this time only about 2mm. The theory is that the shorter tires i put on at the same time - 205/60/16 vs 185/75/14 - didnt allow the scrub the old tires did and the slightly loose rack was walked. So glad to figure this one out!
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For those of you with steering that doesnt feel as tight as it should, this might be something worth looking in to.
The steering rack has a "box" on it that sockets into the chassis of the car. If the rack is not tight enough (and it has to be damn tight) the rack will slide laterally inside this box, making the wheel have a dead spot in the middle, but ultimately being ok to drive, sort of.
Stick your head under the car and look at the rack. If it has been shined next to one or both of the clamps that hold it up, the rack is loose and needs to be tightened.
I had my rack cranked down all the way, and still it was still loose. I had to shim it with some innertubes. Sure is a lot cheaper than endlinks that won't fix anything!
The steering rack has a "box" on it that sockets into the chassis of the car. If the rack is not tight enough (and it has to be damn tight) the rack will slide laterally inside this box, making the wheel have a dead spot in the middle, but ultimately being ok to drive, sort of.
Stick your head under the car and look at the rack. If it has been shined next to one or both of the clamps that hold it up, the rack is loose and needs to be tightened.
I had my rack cranked down all the way, and still it was still loose. I had to shim it with some innertubes. Sure is a lot cheaper than endlinks that won't fix anything!
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