legacycentral bbs

And just a couple recent pics of current shop home



More pics around shop

You will have long blinks and short blinks. Example 2 long blinks and 3 short blinks is code #23

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Ya i get that part reading it, I don't understand the green connectors and if what they blink are the active codes or if it resets the ecu and I have to redo the simple black connectors to reread after others get cleared?

alexandermf wrote:And just a couple recent pics of current shop home

Uhg i wish I was there right now lol That place is so bomb

post some pics of that 240 plz

lol i will when im there next, gotta head to work

just got finished rereading over the vac hoses and pcv hoses from this link
http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/vacuu ... vacuum.png

i saw my L and K tubes off my boost control solenoid were switched at the wastegate and compressor outlet so i switched them back to how the diagram shows its supposed to be and no change, still fuel cut at boost as well, im just trying what i can do in my driveway/garage since im not at the shop right now

One thing to consider which i have done is put 2 switches on the left hand side of the dash board. 1 switch completes the connection for the black plug and the other completes the connection for the green plug. Makes messing with them alot easier.

I cant remember fully at the moment which colors do which (green or black) but one set displays stored codes, the other set displays active codes, and both together resets the ecu. After you reset the ecu, yes you will want to view active codes then you will know for sure where your problems are.

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Sorry also forgot to mention that I'm getting the code 16 or whatever when I Starr the car up the power light flashes shit ton o times.... Can this problem be relevant with my fuel cut issue?

Power light flashing is the code for the trans

Update

well i ended up getting the night off early from work cuz it was so slow and headed right to the shop! at that point chris brought his ss sedan as well so we could trouble shoot/swap parts...we ended up both clearing our codes using the black+green connectors and i ended up with these 3 codes ONLY:
35-Canister purge solenoid valve
44-Duty solenoid valve
(Wastegate control)
45-Pressure sensor and pressure exchange solenoid valve

soooo we ended up swapping chris's map sensor to mine and that didnt make any difference then we were gonna go to the pressure sensor but it started to blizzard bad and we had to leave the shop and head back home..... after a 2 hour drift session intermission pics and videos to come... just cuz my baby doesnt boost doesnt mean she doesnt go in the snow lol

anyways, im off all day tomorrow and chris is as well so we will head back to the shop sometime during the day and go after the pressure sensor which is that entire brown assembly above the boost control solenoid? then if that doesnt work which way should we head between the canister purge or the duty solenoid for the wastegate?

and yes thats what ive heard about the trans code but how do i read what specifically is wrong with my tranny? from what i can tell it feels the same as usual minus the whole fuel cut feel with boost and engine load.... can this affect my problem at all or is it completely separate problem on its own?

Ok,

Here are some tips regarding reading codes and all that jazz.

Number one rule....always start with the lowest numbered code first!

So in your case, test/check or replace the canister purge solenoid. It is the lowest numbered code in your list, and as I've seen in the past can cause other codes not to clear. Is it directly related to your fuel cut issue.....I don't know. But it's good troubleshooting practice to start with the items you know to be a problem and then move onto the unknowns. So if you know or can verify by testing that the canister purge solenoid is bad, replace that, reset the ECU, and check the codes again.

As for connectors.....as it's been mentioned, the black connectors are only for reading stored codes in the ECU's memory. These could be codes that are still present OR they could be codes from months or even years ago that are still stored in the ECU's memory. It could also contain erroneous codes that get stored for no reason at all. So you need to use some judgment and additional checks before assuming all those parts are bad. Typically I would suggest starting with the black connectors which pull stored codes (this is also called the read mode check).

After you've done the stored code check, I'd suggest using the green connectors to check for active codes in the ECU that are currently throwing faults. This mode is also called d-check mode. This mode will typically ONLY display one code. It will be the lowest numbered code. For example if your knock sensor, canister purge solenoid, and wastegate solenoid are all bad, the d-check mode will only typically display the code for the knock sensor. The proper troubleshooting procedure would be to verify the knock sensor is bad, replace it and perform the d-check mode again to see if there are any additional active codes in the ECU. You would keep repeating this process until you no longer get any more active codes.

To clear the stored codes from the ECU's memory, you would use BOTH the black and green diagnostic connectors. This should clear stored codes from the ECU's memory. I have run across times where people can not get the codes to clear with the battery dance method or by removing the ECU/TCU's backup power supply fuse. So this should be a sure-fire way to clear any stored codes.


Regarding the Power light, if the TCU detects a fault in the transmission it will blink the power light 16 times on start up. This is NOT an indicator of any particular code, but rather that there is a fault detected in the transmission somewhere and that a diagnostic check should be performed. Like with the ECU, my recommendation is to start with the stored code retrieval procedure and then move to the active code retrieval. (I need to reword the instructions on my site, as the FSM wording is a little confusing).

Wow your explanation was perfect and much less confusing! I will try and swap that canister purge then today and reclear the codes and report back

Time for a standalone ECU and all your problems will disappear, guaranteed! Have Slodrive wire it in for you and Harvey tune it...they are across the street from each other.

The standalone ECU is by far the best upgrade for these cars...I would take speed density tuning over MAF any day!

i asked harvey and greg if that should be a route i should consider and greg said with my mods and my future plans the stock ecu would be best.... i totally considered though!

sooo update!!!

my car is fixed greg at slodrive is a f***** miracle worker and diagnosed/fixed my tleg within a matter of hours within the span of three days. it pulls better than ever before and im soooo glad to have it back.

according to greg:

-my main relay that runs my map, purge canister, and boost solenoids was cashed
-i had my breather hose under my bov that comes up from the driver side valve cover was split in half underneath
-my spark plugs were the right part number but somehow the wrong gapped plugs(they were twice the gap they shouldve been) this created some sort of spark AND fuel cut along with the map sensor not reading when boost was hitting at all
-i had a couple bad wire connections still running to my boost sensors

all in all spending time with greg and harvey in the shop while he was working on my tleg was a blast and i learned SO much! i will def always take my tleg to greg in the future for mods/upgrades/fixes i can't perform myself

i still have a few minor issues to take car of ASAP according to greg. I need a wideband sensor/gauge, i need to fix my wheel studs(3 wheels have 4/5 studs), my oil light is STILL coming on/off(greg said the oil level/pressure is fine but the wiring/harness part that runs to the actual sensor may be funky), and my cel light actually went off on the drive home from slodrive but greg thinks its the speed sensor code that he pulled that wasn't apart of the relay problem he was fixing. soooo ill have to pull the code this morning to double check and ill report back

And now a lil backyard garage porn from slodrive

UGH.... so just pulled the code that i thought was just gonna be the speed sensor... ends up pulling like 10+ codes for injectors, maf, map, purge solenoid, pressure exchange, speed sensor.... and so on

soooo hit up greg and see what he recomends, my harness still may be being funky, hopefully she continues to drive fine though

Are you sure those codes aren't leftover from before? Did you ever clear them?

did my active check and got codes 33(speed sensor) and 51(neutral switch)

my speedo cable that runs through firewall makes quite a bit of noise while driving thats relevant to my speed needle(like my speed needle will be delayed going down or sticking to one spot and thats when the noise happens so im guessing if i switch my speed sensor and cable that should go away)

and im guessing 51 has to deal with my power light flashing 16 times when i start the car up?

they WERE leftover from before BUT greg cleared them before i picked it up at the shop, they all turned back on the highway drive back home so when i pulled them all again this morning im kinda confused..(scratching head) if they come back again theres definately something wrong but i cleared them again so we shall see what happens

The speed sensor is in the cluster. I would suggest starting with replacing the speedo cable. If you still have issues, you may need to replace the speedometer in the gauge cluster....or just get a whole new gauge cluster.

Yes, code 51 is the inhibitor switch, and is probably related to the power light flashing on start up.