legacycentral bbs

I've got some interesting stuff to add too.

I've noticed around 3000 rpm I'd get a little hesitation/stuttering.....very very light/small....but you could tell it was there.

I took out the PP today, and drove around......didn't notice the stutter any more. Granted, I'd like to drive it some more, but I'm pretty sure I'm not going crazy, and do feel a difference.

The real test would be to take it on the dyno again, and see what sort of number I put down, as well as see what sort of a/f ratios I'm putting out. I may try and do that.

I do think the PP has some issues.....whether it's ground related, I don't know....maybe it's just ultra-sensitive.

Another thing I did what take readings of the reference voltages at the connectors for the MAF sensor & TPS sensor.

With the PP connected I got:

MAF: 5.01-5.02 V
TPS: 5.12 V

Without the PP connected I got

MAF: 5.02 V
TPS: 5.13 V

The PP seems to be zapping some juice...it's like the inputs don't have a high enough resistance. I don't know.

Just something I noticed. I haven't really tested anything else. I just got back from a brewery tour/sampling

15), 000, 000, 004, 064, 127, 127, 127, 127, , 6200
14), 000, 0-9, 000, 056, 120, 127, 127, 127, , 5830
13), 000, 0-8, 0-2, 055, 115, 127, 127, 127, , 5476
12), 0-1, 0-1, 000, 050, 110, 127, 127, 127, , 5117
11), 000, 0-6, 000, 030, 110, 124, 127, 127, , 4744
10), 000, 000, 000, 020, 110, 120, 124, 127, , 4389
9), 000, 000, 000, 010, 090, 120, 120, 127, , 4027
, 000, 000, 000, 000, 0-1, 0-1, 000, 127, , 3662
7), 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 127, , 3292
6), 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, , 2930
5), 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, , 2564
4), 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, , 2203
3), 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, , 1840
2), 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, , 1478
1), 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, , 1114
0), 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, 000, , 750




here is my current map(above).



in contrast to my old map here below:

15), 000, 001, 010, 127, 127, 127, 127, 127, , 6200
14), 0-2, 0-2, 0-1, 127, 127, 127, 127, 127, , 5830
13), 0-3, 0-3, 0-2, 127, 127, 127, 127, 127, , 5476
12), 0-3, 0-5, 000, 126, 127, 127, 127, 127, , 5117
11), 0-4, 0-4, 000, 123, 127, 127, 127, 127, , 4744
10), 0-4, 0-3, 000, 120, 127, 127, 127, 127, , 4389
9), 0-4, 0-2, 000, 116, 127, 127, 127, 127, , 4027
, 0-4, 0-1, 000, 111, 127, 127, 127, 127, , 3662
7), 0-3, 0-2, 000, 105, 117, 118, 120, 127, , 3292
6), 0-4, 0-2, 000, 091, 104, 112, 115, 127, , 2930
5), 0-4, 0-2, 000, 031, 088, 110, 112, 114, , 2564
4), 0-3, 0-1, 000, 016, 070, 084, 098, 100, , 2203
3), 0-2, 0-1, 000, 006, 038, 064, 088, 090, , 1840
2), 0-1, 0-1, 000, 006, 020, 030, 045, 050, , 1478
1), 0-1, 0-1, 0-1, 006, 002, 010, 020, 025, , 1114
0), 000, 000, 000, 006, 001, 005, 013, 020, , 750



the first one runs so much better but still the slight hesitation like you are talking about josh.

OK, I am not sure which is more responsible, but.......

I had grounding issues. I dealt with them and the wagon runs ALOT better all around, as well as the hesitation decrease alot.

Then today, after talking to Josh, I went out to look over my engine and what do I see? Why my MAF is no longer really attached to the intake. Hmmmmm, maybe that would explain my hesitation, my weird recent poor engine performance and my REALLY BAD milage.

So I found the adapter I had misplaced last summer, reinstalled that and BINGO BANGO BONGO.....100%!

So, check your grounds and then check your vacumn lines and ANY place you make have air coming into the system POST MAF.

Originally, when I first installed the PP the MAF was basically duct taped to the intake, but has most likely been slipping slowly off, therefore letting more and more air into the intake PAST MAF.

I am a happy camper! Now to find out why I am losing up to 4 psi!?!?!?!? That story is for another time and place.

ok maybe I am missing something. THe ej22t has (if i am not mistaken) on the intake manifold two small vaccum nipples on the pass. side and two larger nipples (brake booster and the other on I use for the bpv)

I am not missing any right? all of those are being used and are clamped.

oh and the throttle body one


run down:
little nipple-MAP sensor
little nipple on back- FPR
Throttle body-boost guage
Big nipple-brake booster
midium nipple-BPV

inlet elbow:
Big bung-bpv return
end whole plugged
side whole- PCV system

Well, maybe not 100%

Took it out earlier and suffered some hesitation. But only once.

I still have some suspicion of leaks somewhere though due to my boost issues.

I am doing (hopefully) a full once over tommorrow.

What are your spark plugs gapped at Doug?

Well Mister Smarty Pants......

I had to (pre SMT6) go to a .028 gap with BKR7E plugs. NOT BKR7E-11 plugs.

I had to gap them down that small to prevent detonation before I had the SMT6 installed.

Maybe I will try gapping them out again......

bmxpunk wrote:ok maybe I am missing something. THe ej22t has (if i am not mistaken) on the intake manifold two small vaccum nipples on the pass. side and two larger nipples (brake booster and the other on I use for the bpv)

I am not missing any right? all of those are being used and are clamped.

oh and the throttle body one


run down:
little nipple-MAP sensor
little nipple on back- FPR
Throttle body-boost guage
Big nipple-brake booster
midium nipple-BPV

inlet elbow:
Big bung-bpv return
end whole plugged
side whole- PCV system

You have the two on the driver's side.

One is for the brake booster, and one is for the bypass valve
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_5115.JPG

There's two on the passenger side.

One is for the fpr, and one is for the pressure sensor.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_5116.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_5114.JPG

The canister purge solenoid connects at the throttle body.

I personally wouldn't run your boost gauge off the port on the throttle body.

Yeah I know the boost guage isn optimal where it is at right now but its gonna have to work


My car got crazy gas milage tis weekend!!!! 200 miles on 1/2 tank (impreza 12gal!!!) that is just about 35mpg if i can divide.


Remember josh I removed all of my emissions equipment? so I dont have the purge solenoid. SO should I just plug the throttle body thing and "T" off of one of the passengerside nipple's?

bmxpunk wrote:Remember josh I removed all of my emissions equipment? so I dont have the purge solenoid. SO should I just plug the throttle body thing and "T" off of one of the passengerside nipple's?

Yes...you should do that.

Bit small Dougee, but obviouslly you know your poo poo.

I set em @ .032/034, and their usually happy, but Im gonna assume that you've run them at that already.

Right?

rallitektech wrote:Bit small Dougee, but obviouslly you know your poo poo.

I set em @ .032/034, and their usually happy, but Im gonna assume that you've run them at that already.

Right?

cool I just guessed last week and put mine at that, awesome!!

.028

It cured my det problem BEFORE I installed the SMT6. Just havenet gapped them back yet. I'll try it when I return from Mehico.

Anyone notice any problems with their ignitors after all this? Who's tuning with the key in the 'on' position?

I haven't. If I'm going to leave the key in the ON position for an extended period of time and the car not running, I'll pull the plug on the ignitor....just for safety.

so I think that my car is coming out of the closed loop right around 4000rpm. does that sound right? We stuck my 440 injectors in an rs-t so i ordered some 550 sti injectors that I should be able to put in next weekend or so.
Still get a bad flat spot at 41-4400 rpm that nothing happens in. no power-scary

in other news i am starting on my 2.2block 2.5 heads

Since I'm getting my wideband soon, I want to do some data logging, a lot actually and try and figure out where the switch between closed loop and open loop happens and see if I can correlate that to the hesitation/stumble.

so yours is stumbling too?

yeah, I'm getting stumbling too. It doesn't appear to be as bad as your guys, but it's definitely there.

Other thing is that I'm getting MUCH better mileage with the PP out.

hmmm that sucks. I have just come upon an ej20 g wiring harness. This is music to my ears!!!! I just have to figure out exactly which manifold and heads I can use and I am going to have myself a reliable wannabe 22b. Any ideas which EM is available for the ej20g harness? I know the plugs are the same as the 22t, except that it is coil on plug.

Ok, now that I am back from Mexico, have dealt with fear of a possible heart attack, fear of my fathers death, and the worst case of food poisoning I have EVER EVER EVER had, I return to the bitch of the SMT6.

Has ANYONE installed the SMT6 on a 90-94 legacy and NOT had the dreaded hesitation/bucking? IF you are not getting the problem, are you NA or Turbo?

Mine has gone from barely a problem, to "I don't want to drive it". On boost at least.

douglas vincent wrote:
Mine has gone from barely a problem, to "I don't want to drive it". On boost at least.

Sorry to hear about all of that doug, I hope things are looking up for you.

You quote above is my exact sentiment. One day my car is good the next it runs so incredibly piss poor. my stumbling and everything is getting soo bad It now does it whenever it wants to. And a surge has come up at light cruise 2-3000rpm.

Getting a 20G harness and rewiring my car is in the near future.

I've done what the admin over on the pp forums suggested and re connected the MAF signal together. So the PP is just messing with the ignition.

I still have some intermittant issues/hesitation/stumbling even with just the ignition connected.

One thing I did notice when logging is that with no signal connected the analog in is like .08v, the analog out is .12V. So the SMT6 is modifying the signal even with nothing there. I tried scaling it back so the input equaled the output, and I couldn't do it.

I do think there is some kind of interference going on somewhere, and/or the internal resistance in the SMT6 is not high enough, and is altering the signals going to the ECU.

I need to get my wideband hooked up and do some logging while I'm having the issues, and see what it's doing to the AFR's.

But yes, I too am getting a little fed up with this POS.

I went on a LONG 250 mile drive today, and had a pretty damn good time. I had the hesitation and shit but since I was going pretty fast usally, I was often able to miss, or just get a bit of the hesitation before it went away.

BUT............

The damn SMT6 does what I needed. Pull timing. I got cocky and edited the ignition map so I was pulling just a "little" timing. Ran great on the freeway in fifth gear up to 100 mph on the run. Just great.

Then I had to do a down shift uphill pull. Crack, Crack, Crack smoke coming out the rear.

Whoops!!!!!! Open up that laptop, edit the ignition map while driving, NO MORE KNOCK. For me, that is still worth the hassle of this damn hesitation.

Some day, Damn You To Hell SMT6, I will Conquer You!

So I've thrown myself into the perfect power mix and have it wired into one of my customers cars. Currently we are just running around with the patch plug installed while he finishes breaking in the new motor we built... anyway, I'm sure I'll have lots of questions but the first is:

Can the PP act as a FCD?

Does the factory ECU use the MAF voltage to initiate fuel cut? So if the PP is modifying this signal can't we prevent fuel cut?

If the factory ECU uses the MAP sensor to initiate fuel cut, can I just wire the PP into this signal and map it? Seems like the PP has the capability to do this but I'm not 100% sure.

Thanks,
Keith