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does the ECU come with repining instructoins? and how many pins you you need to move?

Can you make a jumper harness using a spare ECU?

or what he said ^^

mlitz123 wrote:does the ECU come with repining instructoins? and how many pins you you need to move?

No, no instructions come with the ECU. I'm sure that would not necessarily be an approved method of installing the Link. However it would work as long as you've taken the care to map everything out.

As for the pins you would need to move, that depends on what inputs/outputs you plan to use.

impreza_GC8 wrote:Can you make a jumper harness using a spare ECU?

You can, but I'll be the first to tell you, it's easier said than done. Removing the ECU header piece is not easy. Those pins are very fragile. Using a torch to desolder the pins is pretty good idea.

There's got to be some place you can buy those ECU headers though....it's a standard type connector.

http://www.tfelectronics.com.au/PageFil ... ctors.html

http://www.m-cal.com/Products/MC04-3690 ... --(Yellow)

Here's a couple



Also, I think Road/Race was making adapter looms for 1G DSM's which seem to share the same ECU header.

That'd be the way to go if you can buy the connectors separately.

38 British lbs = ? about $65-70? or so.

Well the repinning will not work for my LINK. I only have 1 harness that goes into mine, and it's nothing like those 2 pics you posted. It's looking more and more like I'm just going to cut the stock harness up.

What version Link do you have? Is it a LEM or Link Plus?

Max has a LEM G3, not a Link Plus.

Dan speaks the truth.

At the time, the extra $400 for a G3+ seemed like a lot, but I've regretted only getting the LEM a few times now...next time I'll get the full version haha. Either way, it should be able to do anything I want, the only things I really don't like are the lack of built in Knock Sensing, and it only has 1 digital input.

Ok....nevermind about my idea of repinning then.

Tried starting the car yesterday and it kind of sputtered a little bit, but didn't stay running. I've got to go pickup a timing light to set the base timing. I'm not sure if that was why I was having problems or not.

However I did give the Legacy a bath to wash off the six months of dust. Here are those pictures, and hopefully I can get it started.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... install/12

She LIVES!

congrats... now for the fun part, tuning are you going to do some of it your self then go get it tuned on dyno or go strait to the dyno?

Excellent!!



You should be able to get most of the drivability stuff done yourself. Its just tedious. Actually, I almost forgot about quick-tune. Unless your Zeitronix is too old.

I couldn't help but notice that your IAT is mounted in your intake mani. Do you think this is going to give you any issues? I asked about this on the Link forums, and someone mentioned that it is a bad idea because the sensor could heat soak the sensor up to 80 degrees above what it should be. I think I'm gonna try to mount it in my TMIC...but I need to look at the situation some more...

I may look at tuning some of the functions, but will most likely have it tuned on the dyno by a shop here in town.

I got my zeitronix updated, so it does output a linear curve. From what I saw today it was running a little leaner at idle.

I had some issues initially with the IAC valve. For some reason I had it at 20 hz, and it was just making this awful noise. Got that fixed at 200 hz, and was playing with things a little bit, not much.

That is really the only place I could have put the IAT sensor. There is a chance of heat soak, but the air flow is pretty good there, plus the AWIC helps heat soak issues tremendously. When the weather is cooler, the entire intake manifold near the throttle body is cool to the touch.

I guess I'll just wait and see how it works.

Just keep in mind that you will NEED some road tuning beyond any work on the dyno. Any dyno tune absolutely cannot replicate airflow conditions that your car will see in the real world.

Honestly, it is really hard to make the car knock in light load conditions. The more work you do means less time for your tuner.

Even still, I've seen a pro-tuned car grenade on the track because it was only tuned on a dyno without any at-speed tuning. STi rods snapped from detonation and the CP pistons were still mint. An oil slick on your rear tires from holes in your block at 150 mph is not cool...

Yeah I understand. I am going to try and get as much as I can worked out myself. The price they quoted me is an all inclusive price for a stand alone setup. So it includes dyno tuning, road, etc.

But like I said, I'm going to try and handle what I can myself. I need to get the intake piping between the airbox & turbo handled. I need to make some calls inquiring about custom piping work in the Houston area.

I've played around with the configuration a little more. I really haven't done any driving since I don't have the intake piping finished.

But I find it rather amusing that the engine idles smoother and more steady with the Link on a base map without a tune compared to the stock ECU.