legacycentral bbs

First step in any trouble diagnosis is to check that everything is in good tune, spec and condition... then you start looking for the fault...

As for the models.. It's a nightmare.. we here in NZ get the same options as you guys, except in different years or models... sometimes earlier, sometimes later years... The only way to be sure is to look under the bonnet, check it against a manual... confirm that the combination of components are as stated...

Glad to hear that you got it fixed.. good work on the perseverance...


As I tell my sons..."perseverance always wins... giving in never does".

rob wrote:

kimokalihi wrote:Quite different than my 91 legacy FSM procedure. It doesn't say anything about removing the ECU or checking the idle switch at the ECU end of the harness. It is also adjusting it by voltage rather than by resistance.

Well you are running an EJ20G ECU now, so you need to follow that manual

PhyrraM wrote:Likely the difference between the Hitachi and JECS procedures. They both end up with the same results, but different ways to get there.

You are correct it is likely the difference between the two ECUs. The JECS is a better ECU all around (one of the reasons I stopped working on the 22t ecu tune), but I don't think it would be the same result between the two. If the legacy FSM doesn't say to check for proper switch operation for code 31, then I would guess the ej22t ECU would not flag this situation as an error 31. It is a subtle difference, but I think it was this difference that let Kimo chase his tail for so long.

-Rob

Where can I download the EJ20G manual? Or better yet, buy the books?

This engine has been setup this way for 20,000 miles now. Oddly enough it used to only act up occasionally like every 1,000 miles or every 500 miles at most. Just slowly got worse somehow.

log1call wrote:Glad to hear that you got it fixed.. good work on the perseverance...


As I tell my sons..."perseverance always wins... giving in never does".

Thanks. That's a good motto. And thanks for your help. Did you look at the new logs I posted? For the most part I don't really know what I'm looking at. I did notice the speed was way higher than it actually is. I think I saw on get up to 140mph but I only got up to probably 80 tops.

I have now. I wasn't looking for problems, but they are a bit more spread out now...

Now that it's going properly, go for a few drives and log every condition and driving situation, give the logs meaningful names like drag start or big hill or cold start light cruising or whatever, and study them and keep them till you have a problem to compare to them... or cause a problem.. and compare just for the education sake... that is actually the easiest way to spot what makes what difference..hehe..

Some of your data addresses, such as knock, are not right. The knock should behave as it does in that log of mine. Knock correction in all makes gets taken back in small steps of about two degrees, and there are normally about twelve steps for a total of about twenty four degrees... That's all the retard any of them have... your readings are way to high. You may be reading the right data, but applying the wrong formula.

There are a few good reads on those two links I gave you.
The file called "diagnostic 04", is obdII criteria for setting a trouble code, and readings that the scanner should be reading, and what criteria are required before the sensors are read or used etc. The old OBDI/SSM cars use the same criteria mostly.

In the second link there is a "diagnostic" file, down at the bottom of that file there are also the readings, criteria, etc for your car I hope...

ObdI and OBDII use the same communication protocol, same calculations and operating methods, just a different plug and the internationally agree upon addresses for the trouble codes etc..

Kimo,

Glad to hear that was only the problem. The scan about the idle switch was an adder that was not in the original FSM's until 1992. My 90 FSM's were used by a dealer so they have a lot of additional snippets of info and data sheets in them. That third TPS scan with the idle switch was one of those extra sheets.

Like the 3-wire TPS's, the actual resistance of the TPS isn't super critical, as long as it's in the ball park. With the 4-wire TPS, as you've discovered, the proper adjustment of that idle switch is very critical.

Hi all, sorry to intrude, but this is the only place i found with knowledgeable people on the EvoScan and Subarus (and this forum was recommended by a dude from my country's subaru ownersclub) .

So to the point. I have a subaru impreza gf8 wagon MY97 with slight modifications (more boost and better exhaust). My ecu scanned by evoscan is A30113 and i can't seem to find anywere what are the normal working parameters I have to look for, because i have really high knock correction at low revs but I'm not sure if that is normal or not. Can some give a link or something for the normal working values of that ecu. And it this high knock correction a symbol of a fault and what it is.

Thanks in advance.

Welcome to the BBS.

I don't have any info for you, but hopefully one of the other members taht is more knowledgable with the Evoscan software can provide you some info.

If you read up a bit there are links to some manuals with the information you are looking for. They won't mention knock correction, but it should be minimum, about minus-five, and it should only last for two to four readings before the ecu gets the knocking under control again. I think I put up a link to a data log with good knock correction on it. If you want to test the reading you have, disable your wastegate so there is no boost and see if that reduces it.
The timing figures should reduce with the knock correction too. Most manufacturers reduce the timing about two degrees at a time, and they mostly have about twelve steps, so about twenty-four degrees of reduction in total..
Things that cause knock are faulty knock detector, gudgeon knock, piston slap, oil burning, bad grade fuel, excessive compression(head planed?), excessive boost... I think that's about it.

Wow really thanks for the info. I will look up for the manuals.

If the knock sensor is faulty don't i have to get a check engine and log an error ?

Ooh, one more question. I'm getting only negative values on O2 readings (min, max, average), that mean i have a leak or a false reading? What is normally the reading for the O2 ?

Sorry to bump this from the dead, but I need some help.

I cannot get evoscan to read my new robtune ECU. It will not connect to the ECU using any of the options in the software. Everything worked well back in the day with the stock ecu, but this is giving me hell. I read somewhere that he changes the baud rate for his tuned ecus, but not what it should be. Is this causing the issue?

...and i feel like an idiot. Uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers and it seems to be working. Also noticed that the software defaulted to 1953 baud rate, so switching it to 4800 like it is supposed to do seems to have done the trick.

Out of curiosity, does anyone have a comprehensive list of the parameter addresses for a robtune ecu, or would it depend on which ecu was used with the robtune chip? Are they just the normal batch from the SSMI 744014 heading? The software said my ecu ID was 744017 when i got it to connect, but I couldn't find anything that I could decipher.

It's been forever but I just picked whatever ecu evoscan had listed for an ej20g and it worked. What version of windows do you have? My cable doesn't work with Windows 7 or 10. Might just be a hardware conflict or damaged cable, but the proper driver said it couldn't find that hardware ID when installing.

I am running 10 on my Surface. It seems to be reading fine after reinstalling the drivers, so that's something. I haven't had a chance to take it out to test yet since it has been raining and I am lazy. Just getting the motivation up to install all the parts I have collected for it after a year of procrastinating.

It has been off the road for quite a while, and recently it has started having alot of difficulty with cold idling, so I thought I would log and see if I could figure out what was up.

I'll have to try it again since it works for you. Where did you get the driver's from? Evoscan, or the FTDI driver? I'm running 64 bit windows for 7 and 10 which may be the problem.

The drivers, I just went into the device manager and uninstalled the drivers for the cable (show hidden devices without the cable hooked up, then uninstalled the openport 1.3 Mitsubishi entry), then went into the program files folder and used the ones there for the openport 1.3, then also did the openport1.3 and ftdicom one. Not sure if they were any different, but i ran them both and I don't recall it prompting me to overwrite or anything. I grabbed the latest version of 2.9 from evoscan, so it may be newer drivers if you are using an older copy of the software.

Also, my surface is 64 bit 10, so that shouldn't cause an issue.

This is my first post here. I have 94 ej22 in a volkswagen vanagon which is giving me some problems. I purchased evoscan software and cable in hopes that it would help solve my problem. My ecu id 733263 I'm not getting good number from some of the sensors. I was hoping someone could help me out. I'm using ecu 7332xx. Thanks.

Welcome to the BBS.

I am not familiar with the evoscan software. However, another option you might be able to look into is Vikash's scan tool.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=16219
http://surrealmirage.com/vrg3/b10scan

Also, the ECU should have a part number on it; it will be longer than the number you posted. If you can share that we can check which ECU it is.

Thanks for the Help. The ECU has label on the outside that says LI, 22611 AB060F, JAI800 RP2 and 2Z10. I will check out the links out.

That ECU came out of 1993 model year Legacy L with manual transmission.