kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

[sqc151]

i have a td05-16g. i hope i dont have this problem in the future.

[Alphius]

Well, it doesn't cause a problem so much as it just means you are running outside of your ideal efficiency range on your turbo, which generally just causes the outlet temp to go up. Not a huge deal. If it was really a problem, would FHI have put this turbo on a 2.0L engine from the factory making far less boost and power than we are talking about here, and therefore running even further outside of its efficiency range?

Also, as a sidenote, I think the TD05-16g is one of the very best turbos on our cars for up to 330-350fwhp or so and great street manners. Spool is fast, and the top end doesn't have any issues at all. Good choice on that one.

Check this out for some compressor maps and some basics on reading the maps.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm

[beatersubi]

Well, it doesn't cause a problem so much as it just means you are running outside of your ideal efficiency range on your turbo, which generally just causes the outlet temp to go up.

Running a lower pressure ratio than optimal for a turbo shouldn't create more heat.

[Alphius]

Well, it doesn't cause a problem so much as it just means you are running outside of your ideal efficiency range on your turbo, which generally just causes the outlet temp to go up.

Running a lower pressure ratio than optimal for a turbo shouldn't create more heat.

But it does, relative to a turbo that is properly sized that you are running in peak efficiency range at equal pressure ratio. Running a bigger turbo below peak at the same airflow and pressure level will generate more heat than the smaller turbo since the adiabatic efficiency of the compressor goes down at that given level. It's not much, maybe even as little as a few degrees, but the effect is certainly still there. This is of course still dependent on intake air temp at the turbine.

That is, unless I have my compressor theory completely wrong. I welcome any documentation you have saying otherwise as I would love to correct any deficiency I might have in theory.

[Legacy777]

Yeah, given the same pressure ratio & flow and depending on where the efficiency islands land, the spot where the efficiency is higher will have a lower temperature.

I will say though that for most car applications, the turbo almost NEVER runs at a steady state and as a result the turbo is all over the compressor map. So even a properly sized turbo can be off the best efficiency. I think most people will size the compressor for "max hp" to make sure the turbo has enough headroom on the top end without being a complete dog on the bottom end.

As Alphius point out, I would agree, the TD05-16G is a very good turbo for these engines. They can make good power and have very little lag.

[kimokalihi]

What about that ht86 turbo everyone raves about on nasioc? How does it compare to a td05?

[Alphius]

I presume you are talking about the HTA86? That turbo would spool around 5.5-6k on one of our cars. It is capable of over 700hp easily though. It's more than twice as big as the TD05-16g.

In addition to that, it costs about as much as one of our cars is worth stock.

[sqc151]

^^^...beat me to the punch...lol.

and its hta68 fellas...lol

[Alphius]

There is an HTA86 as well, which is huge. I thought that's what Kimo meant. It's actually a "GT3586HTA". Huge. It's what I was talking about before.

If he meant the HTA68 like you said, then it's a little different. Flows better than a stock TD06-20g and should be able to spool to 20+ psi by 3500 in our cars. This one is actually a really good turbo for a lot of power (350+) and spools like a much smaller snail, but for up to 350 flywheel hp or so I'd still take the TD05-16g for it's low RPM spool characteristics. I can hit 20psi by 2800RPM on my stock single cam EJ22T and hold that to redline.

[kimokalihi]

Yeah I was talking about the hta68 which I thought was similar to a td05 but quicker spool but maybe I was mistaken. I see them for sale for $700-900 on nasioc used.

[Alphius]

Yeah I was talking about the hta68 which I thought was similar to a td05 but quicker spool but maybe I was mistaken. I see them for sale for $700-900 on nasioc used.

Yeah, the HTA68 is a great turbo too but like I said would spool a little later than a TD05-16g. You should see around 20psi by 3300-3400RPM or so with an HTA68. About 500 more RPM than the 16g. You can run more boost and more power to a higher RPM with the HTA68 though, so its all just a tradeoff for what you want.

[kimokalihi]

Would this td05 18g be more suited to a 2.5 block?

[sqc151]

kimo, it depends on your power goals.
275-290 would be the 16g.
300+ go with the 68 if your engine is built for it.

im building my 22t with forged internals but keeping the stock heads, just rebuilding them. so im staying with the 16g for quick spool. perfect for passing power.
i have the 05 LGT for the fast stuff. building the 93ss to be quick... theres a difference if you know what i mean.

on a side note. i have a friend with a polished 68 for 900.

[Grayguy]

I've been looking into different turbos quite a bit lately, and I really like the dyno graphs I've seen for a 16g on a 2.5l motor. There are guys making 350whp + with that setup and the power comes on nice and low in the rpm range

I am about 90% convinced that when I pull my ej205 and replace it with my ej255 I'll be keeping my Evo III big 16g

[kimokalihi]

Hmm ill probably keep my 18g when I build my 257. Right now it comes on hard at about 3,700 with this low compression ej20g. Probably be perfect with the 257. Just need forged pistons and head gaskets.

[Grayguy]

^ if I had that turbo I would keep it too, I figure when i put my 255 in I can always upgrade from my 16g if I don't like it later down the road

[Alphius]

You should only need to upgrade from the 16g if you want to make more than 350hp. Honestly, it spools great down low for massive torque and passing power and it flows plenty for up to 350hp in most cases. I like sqc151's plan, make the old Legacy quick and the newer GT fast.

I have 3.90 gears and I can make 18psi for passing without downshifting from 5th on the highway. It's great. In 5th with a lot of load I can hit 18psi at as low as 2500RPM which is about what I am running around 60mph. Punch it and go. That's even possible on a stock EJ22T block and heads.

[sqc151]

small details make the biggest impressions.

[kimokalihi]

Damn! Witnessed some crazy low temps tonight on the 25 min drive home from the gf's place at 4am. Before temp got down to 34F and after the intercooler hit a blistering cold -3F!! Whoa. I never would have thought it would get that cold in the intake. Just to make sure I hopped out befpre I got home when the intercooler had reached about 15F and touched it and sure enough cold as ice. The turbo was barely warm itself and the water pipe coming off the turbo was hot. Even the intake manifold was barely luke warm. Cold actually on top and barely warm at the bottom by the injectors. Weather.com says 43F right now and this was cruising mostly about 50mph no load, no boost. I wonder what it will get to when its 15-20F outside.

I guess it must be getting better airflow than I thought but just in case I think I found a tmic splitter for a good price locally.

[mike-tracy]

What splitter you looking at? I have the one for the WRX tmic everyone uses, and it's way too tall to fit. Someone on here stacked some sort of insulating foam that sealed against the hood.

[kimokalihi]

Oh is it? Should I try to make my own?

[kimokalihi]

While diagnosing my TPS sensor I smelled the usual fuel smell. Quite strongly this time. I was standing on the driver's side by the fender and bent down to smell the fuel filter and sure enough it was coming from there. I moved the hose on the engine side and fuel squirted out! There was fuel residue and dirt that was accumulating in the fuel residue on top of the filter. Snapped a couple pics which I'll upload later. Gonna go see about repacing that hose (which is basically new at only maybe 10k miles old). I hope that solves my fuel smell in the cabin when I'm driving. This whole time I thought it was the EVAP canister.

Didn't realize the hose clamp was so far from the end of the metal pipe on the filter. I moved it right before the rolled end so it could get a nice seal and I tightened it much tighter. No more leak. Wiped up all the fuel and dirt to make it easy to see if it's still leaking later.








Some ice cold temps from the other night. 35 before IC and -2F After. Granted the temps seem to be about 20 degrees higher than actual temps when I first turn the car on.

[beatersubi]

Is there a way to calibrate those sensors?

[kimokalihi]

I think there may be a way to calibrate the multimeters but I didn't even think about it til you mentioned it. Thanks ill look at the manual.

[beatersubi]

At the very least, you could stick the senders in bowl of ice water, then boiling water and check the display to get a sense of their accuracy.