kimokalihi's 91 SS EJ20 Swap

[kimokalihi]

Looks good kimo. Now we just need to get together so i can go for a ride.

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Might have to wait til august. I'm not driving it more than down the street a couple miles. Not insured.

[kimokalihi]

Today I got my brand new OEM TPS in the mail. Excited, I went out to my garage and removed my throttle body and installed it. Then I got my FSM and looked up the specs and checked it and calibrated it. It was all within spec now. Got it back together and turned the car on, immediately the CEL was on. Took it for a spin and it was still stalling on me and the CEL never went off. Normally it's only on sometimes and usually revving it or driving will turn it off. Checked the ECU for trouble codes and the only one present is 31 - Throttle Position Sensor.

That was a nice waste of $300. Now what? EVERYTHING checks out. The wiggled test on the TPS side of the harness passed as well as the ECU end of the harness and the patch harness. The voltage is good. The FSM says Repair/Replace ECU, poor connection at terminal.

Help!

[Legacy777]

Forgive me if you posted this already, but have you checked all the wiring from the TPS to the ECU to make sure it has 0 ohms?

What happens if you run the car in d-check with the green connectors connected?

[kimokalihi]

Yeah I did check and that was done at the same time I was doing the continuity test. What does d-check mode do exactly?

[CAV3MAN227]

-I believe it will let you know if, whats causing your CEL to come on, is really legit or not. Though I may be wrong about that to.

-Joe

[dillonr92]

Are the green connectors near the brown/ black diag. Connectors?.. Also how do you read it dose it come through the CEL. And how do i get the codes or w/e figured out

[PhyrraM]

Do you have any of the tools to read ECU values? I forget the names, but one of the programs and cable that emulate the Select Monitor? I also think that Vikash had a version posted years ago.

You can use such a program to read the TPS value and make sure that it reads evenly into the ECU. There might be a problem in the way the ECU interprets the analog voltage into a digital number for use in the ECU.

The other thing is the grounds. you need to check resistance from connectors to the sheet metal for all the related grounds. IIRC, bad grounds on any sensor can cause fault codes on a different sensor.

[cj91legss]

The values could be way different on his 20g ecu

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[kimokalihi]

I actually have an ssm cable and I have voth evoscan (finicky about when it wants to work or not) and I also just bought that esl live tuning board and software so maybe that can read it.

[kimokalihi]

Are the green connectors near the brown/ black diag. Connectors?.. Also how do you read it dose it come through the CEL. And how do i get the codes or w/e figured out

Yes they're right next to the black connectors. No brown connectors, just two black and two green. The black connectors when plugged together with ignition on and engine off will flash the cel codes at you. All the info you need can be found here.

http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

[Legacy777]

Yeah I did check and that was done at the same time I was doing the continuity test. What does d-check mode do exactly?

The d-check mode is a more active diagnostic. The reason I suggest it is that if there is an "active" code or problem it will let you know. It's just another way to confirm that the ECU is seeing things properly.

[kimokalihi]

I bought this MAF cleaner spray at autozone and it recommends cleaning the MAF every time you clean the air cleaner. Ok, sounds good but then I saw on the label a warning not to use it on Karman-Vortex MAF's such as those used on Toyota Supra and most Lexus vehicles.

What is a Karman-Vortex MAF and is the JECS JDM WRX MAF one of these MAF's or is it safe to clean it with MAF cleaner? Also, I don't really have any problems with my MAF. I just thought I would clean it while it was off since I never have before. Is this a good idea?







I've been talking about removing my ABS and converting to a full Non-ABS setup but it's been a difficult search for the proper 94-95 FWD Non-ABS 4 port SVX Master Cylinder. I finally found one! On the left is the MC from my 91 SS and on the right is my cleaned up used SVX MC ready to go in. Hopefully it doesn't leak because I don't know the internal condition of it. I may rebuild it, not sure yet.







Dirty dual diaphragm brake booster. I'd like to replace this with an Impreza L non-abs single diaphragm booster but that's also hard to find for some reason. I think it only came on 93-94 base model Imprezas? Looks like this one has to come off anyways just to remove the hard lines and install my NA non-ABS lines. PITA. I think I also need to go back to the yard and snatch up the lines that connect to both from calipers. I may have gotten them before but lost them or more likely I figured they were the same as on my car but I was wrong. They run all the way to the ABS pump so that won't work.







There's three nuts inside the fender well and you need to remove the fender liner to gain access to them. I first thought I could get at them with a wrench of socket through the hole behind the corner light but I was wrong. Not enough room. I snapped the stupid mounting tab off my corner light!! Pretty mad about that. Not the first time it's been replaced because of that. I barely touched it, it's so damn brittle. I'm going to super glue it back in place and then epoxy all around it to try to salvage it. They're hard to find in good shape.






Here the pump is out of the car with all the lines still attached. The other end of the lines I couldn't get out because the booster is holding them in. It's basically bolted right on top of most of them and for no damn reason. They could have easily gone down the wall right beside it rather than behind it. Damn you subaru. GRR.

How do I get the booster off? Does it unbolt inside the car? This sucks. Anyone got the single diaphragm booster for me?







This will look nice once it's cleaned up. I also took this opportunity to remove my purge canister again. It isn't doing a damn thing. Still builds pressure in the tank so I might as well simplify my bay and have more room to work.







There's a ground on both strut towers. Here's one of them. They're part of the same harness that connects to the front ABS sensors, which I'm removing along with everything else ABS related. Are these grounds part of the rest of the harness for the engine or can I remove them? I'm thinking I'll play it safe and leave them and maybe just snip off the rest of the ABS wheel speed sensors off.

[kimokalihi]

Now that my TPS CEL issue is resolved and hopefully for good (idle switch needed adjustment) I'm going to remove my ignition converter setup and run 02-07 WRX Coil On Plug ignition. This is a good time to do this since the intercooler is off and there's easy access to the engine and firewall. Hopefully the install goes smoothly. Coil on plug is new to me. Never had a car with COP before. I'm scared....I'll update when I get a chance to wire that all up. Hopefully it kills my misfire at 5K we saw on the dyno and allows me to open up my .026" gap back up to hopefully .032"ish.

Crazy busy the last couple months and it's only going to be worse in the coming months so I'm just hoping to have this stuff done and my car detailed and paint-correction finished by the end of august so I'll be ready for WCSS.

[cj91legss]

Yes you have to unbolt the booster from under the dash. there's also a rod with a clip on the end of it that goes thru a hole on the brake pedal. make sure not to take the vac line off of the brake booster. It HAS to be disconnected from the intake manifold. I've damaged a couple brake boosters by doing that. When they're old and see as much pressure/vac when you disconnect the check valve it can damage the diaphragms inside.

[Legacy777]

Based on what I read on wikipedia we do not have Karman Vortex MAF's.

Yeah, the single diaphragm booster I think only came on the base models. I think I posted something in a thread one time with the specific range....couldn't tell you when or where though

FWIW, I've taken the vacuum line off the booster plenty of times without any issues.

When you remove the charcoal canister, and if you plug the vent line, you will find that pressure in the tank will build up substantially more! Trust me I know, because I did it. If you just make a loop and run the line into the canister purge solenoid, it would be better....but not ideal since pressure wouldn't vent when the car is off and then vent quite a bit once running. You could try it and see how it works.

Yes, leave those grounds alone, they need to be there.

[cj91legss]

Dang, then how did i kill 2 by taking the vacuum line off? Maybe they were just getting worn out?

[Legacy777]

When you say you killed them, what happen to them? They no longer produced brake assist?

[cj91legss]

yes

[kimokalihi]

Well josh I drove around with the canister off for over 15k miles and it was almost the same pressure buildup so I don't think its working anyways. What if I just run the hose line into the fender or something?

[beatersubi]

What if I just run the hose line into the fender or something?

You might as well be clubbing baby seals, kicking puppies and murdering trees just to burn them. So, go ahead.
You might want to put some sort of filter on the end of the line though. What if you ran it back to the intake somewhere before the turbo? Anyone know why that wouldn't work?

[kimokalihi]

I thought about the intake but I don't think its a good idea to feed extra flamable gas into the engine without the engine knowing. I cut down trees just to burn them all the time haha. Forest control.

[Alphius]

Tank vent: Just put a little filter on it. No biggie. Won't hurt anything.

Brake booster: Taking the vacuum line off would not kill it. Did you by chance put the vacuum line back on backwards? Then it may not work as some have a one-way valve in them. Or you just got very very unlucky. Honestly taking the vacuum line off is no different than turning the engine off then pressing the brake pedal a couple times to bleed off the assist.

[cj91legss]

No I did not put the line on backwards

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[kimokalihi]

Cranked out another late night session of over 4 hours tonight. I hate how I have to stop to sleep and never know when I'll get another chance to continue. Nothing worse than trying to pick up where you left off but it's been so long that you can't remember what the hell you were doing and you spend way too much time trying to get your bearings again. Luckily this was not one of those times.

It was so productive that I didn't feel like stopping to take pictures so there's not much to show. I removed the entire ABS system as far as under the hood goes including chopping off the harnesses and connectors. I removed the ABS sensors and unfortunately had to chop the connectors off them so I could slide the rubber grommets off the wires. There was no way those connectors would fit through the grommets and I'm not leaving big gaping holes in my fender wall to let all kinds of mud into my engine bay. Homie don't play that.

I also removed the ABS directional sensor from the frame rail and chopped that harness off. The Bosch pump is out and so are the hard lines. I was getting frustrated trying to get the lines out because they are so entwined with all the other components near them such as the steering linkage which they go underneath and the clutch MC and reservoir that the lines go on both sides of and behind the clutch SS braided line and they also go behind the brake booster just an inch or so which means I had to unbolt the booster to get some wiggle room. I got enough room from unbolting it that I didn't need to remove the brake pedal from the booster so that was nice. The lines ended up getting cut in the end because I had had enough and they were becoming quite bent in the process. Oh well I doubt anyone will be installing ABS on their car and there's really no other reason those lines would ever get re-used. I got the new used non-ABS lines in and the fitment was very good and went in much easier than the old ones came out. I decided to remove the clutch master cylinder which made things a lot easier.

Here's the only pic I really got after I was done but there will be more later. Still got tons of work to do. Spent a good deal of time with a toothbrush and some Meguiars D103 APC+ All Purpose Cleaner cleaning up the whole area where the new lines were going. My engine bay is going to be cleaner than ever before since I've owned it and that makes me quite happy. I am going to even try to get some of that nasty yellow out of the paint with a powerball mini and some ultimate compound or I might try Meguiars m105 and m205.

When this is done I'll be installing WRX COP's! I'm excited for that to be done and my new brake setup. Then I can finally get started with my paint correction process and deep cleaning.







Somehow in the process I accidently snapped this guy off. Just how important is this piece and what the hell does it do? I imagine it's some type of one day diaphragm and therefore probably pretty important? Anybody got one of these sensors for sale?







Here's a sneak peak at my new StopTech slotted rotors. They're as wide as my stock calipers!

[kimokalihi]

Hopefully they don't add a crazy amount of weight and thus increase rotating mass making the braking benefits worthless. They're pretty heavy.