Headlight Project

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:18 am

technically you wouldn't, but there's not exactly the most room.....any more room I can give myself is always nice

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 4:00 pm

blah, I'm late to respond, so what're you gunna do with the rear fog switch? Keep it or get rid, you know who wants it

Post by **Legacy777** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 5:43 pm

so that's a rear fog light switch.....and not a front fog switch?

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 6:19 pm

Yeah, it actually is. The front fog light switch looks the same except that the lines leaving the light are slanted downwards instead of being horizontal.

Post by **Legacy777** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 9:16 pm

ahhh.

My issue now is how to deal with the switch for the driving lights.

I have the switch for the lights in the car in parallel with a relay which is tied to my alarm for me to turn it on via remote. The issue is the lighted switch I used initially would cause a short or an extremely high current draw if I have both the relay closed and the switch closed. So I had to use a switch without any sort of light in it.

Since then I've added an additional relay in series with the switch after the first relay. This relay is energized when ACC is on and in the ON position. That way I can't forget to turn my driving lights off.

I have the switch that originally came with the new lights. It has your normal switch wires......and then it has a resistor that takes power from the power leads and most likely into the light, and then back out to another wire which goes to ground.

My mind is having a hard time deciphering whether I would run into the same problem as before, or how to run a lighted switch.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 11:58 pm

I don't understand why you had it wired in with the relay? Did you want to turn on your driving lights by remote?

Are you going to keep your driving lights after converting to good headlights? If you do, I think you should start using them as originally intended -- as auxliary high beams. You could use that reverse fog light switch to control them, which would give you a nice clean interior look.

Wire the illumination pins in parallel with the other dash switches, and tap off the high beam wire of the lighting stalk switch to go to the "input" of the switch. Connect the "output" of the switch back to the switch's orange light too.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Tue Apr 27, 2004 7:12 am

Maybe he wants to be able to run with just driving lights for stealth...

Steve

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Apr 27, 2004 4:45 pm

yeah I had a relay in there so I could turn them on by remote if I was outside the car or something.....more a novelty then anything.

yes I plan on keeping the driving lights, and I prefer to have complete control of when I can and can't turn them on.

The problem with the reverse fog switch is I don't really have any place to put it....I would think it would be really cool to use it....but I don't know where it would fit, and not look bad.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Apr 27, 2004 4:49 pm

If you're willing to lose the little tray you could modify a stock cruise/defrost bezel to fit in it and it could look almost stock; that's what HomeSlice did I think.

That's really weird that a filament inside a switch could draw enough current that it would be considered a short... Was it tripping a breaker or popping fuses or something?

93Leg-c · Post by **93Leg-c** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 8:20 am

Josh, did you get the 3M film for your headlights, yet? Just came back from a training seminar today. 3M and ClearShield are the two largest manufacturers of the protective film, not to mention other smaller companies. The rep was explaining that 3M's film will start to yellow in about 6 months whereas the one made by ClearShield has a warranty to stay clear for 5 years! And cost is about the same. ClearShield is sold by Bekaert Specialty Films, LLC, more widely known as SolarGard films (window tint). Look in the yellow pages under Window Tinting & Coatings or similar heading, then look for a tint company that uses SolarGard films or films by Bekaert. If that tint company doesn't install the ClearShield, they should be able to hook you up with the distributor who can tell you who sell/installs it.

For everyone else reading this post, the film by ClearShield can be put on polycarbonate headlights too! So, if you sand your lights as did Josh, you can put the ClearShield film on and it will protect your lights from abrasion from sand and dirt and abuse from rocks, gravel, etc. The film is 6 mil thick, if I recall correctly, and it will take the abuse of flying debris as it has a protective coating on it, unlike smaller manufacturers of similar films which have no scratch resistant coating which will make the film haze quickly. The film has been tested to perform properly in desert and well as freezing climates.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 8:50 am

I've been trying to get this stuff for a while. Can it be bought in relatively small sheets or rolls?

Steve

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 2:40 pm

I already bought the stuff unfortunately. It is a 3m film i believe....I forget the mil thickness.....but it's two sheets I'll have to cut to size. I think it was 60 bucks roughly for everything including shipping.

That sucks to hear they said it yellows.....I really don't have much recourse.....even if I did want to return it, there's a good re-stocking fee.

93Leg-c · Post by **93Leg-c** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 4:49 pm

Steve: Normally the film is sold in 100 foot rolls, but for an additional charge, the company will sell it in increments of 10 linear feet. And it comes in different widths, 12 inches being the smallest width, then 24 inches, etc.

Two special squeegies are recommended to install it properly. Also, a spray bottle with alcohol and water mix.

The company will NOT give non-approved installers the 5 year non-yellowing warranty.

Installation instructions are on CD-ROM or VHS (The instructions cover installation of the film on hoods of cars, bumpers, mirrors, and fenders. So, the principles gleaned from the video/CD will have to be appied to installing the film on headlights.)

93Leg-c · Post by **93Leg-c** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 4:53 pm

Josh, what was included in the kit you bought? I'm kinda curious to see if they included the squeegies, instructions, etc. And what size was the two sheets of film?

93Leg-c · Post by **93Leg-c** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 5:31 pm

Hmmm, Josh, I've been debating whether or not to mention a few more things about the film you already have. But I'm going to because then you'll have more information to make a decision whether or not to install it on your lights.

It's been found that the film (the one you have) will yellow more quickly with high intensity lights, such as HID lights. I presume overwattage bulbs (80/100) will probably do the same thing. I do not know, at this time, if overwattage or high intensity lights will void the warranty on the ClearShield product--the rep I called was in a meeting and I'll ask him about this when he returns my call.

Other companies sell and install thicker films, up to 40 mils thick, claiming that it offers more protection. However, the thicker the film, the more heat is trapped in the housing, causing overheating and the subsequent problems from that.

ClearShield is clear whereas the other one can have an orange-peel look to it.

And, Josh, did your kit come with a knife to cut the film or did they recommend you just use a razor?

I'm asking all these questions because I'm trying to think of a way to help you get the ClearShield if you'd want to get it.

In fact, if anyone else out there has interest, I may be able to put together a kit but I'll need to know which components of the kit you'd like to have--film, video or CD, Olfa knife, squeegies, spray bottle, alcohol, water (you know I'm just kidding on the last two items, right?)

I'm not sure if I'm violating any rules or procedures here by offering this kit. If I am, it is not intentional, and I apologize and will not do it again. I'm just trying to fill a need that many of you may have and I know products like these may not be the easiest to get at a more reasonable cost. I was told that in Colorado, it costs about $800.00 to get the front bumper and the front of your hood protected, and another $100.00 to get the headlights protected. But I think prices in Colorado are higher than in other states.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 7:40 pm

Those are around the prices I've seen here and that's just too much for an old Subaru (even one with a new paint job). I would be interested in a self-instal type kit or roll later on, but I really need to hang onto money a little right now.

Steve

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 7:49 pm

The stuff I have is the thicker stuff.....40mil stuff. I don't recall any instructions or what not......I'll take some pictures of the stuff.

93Leg-c · Post by **93Leg-c** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 8:35 pm

Josh, you may need a heat gun to soften the 40 mil film when installing the film if it will not lay down and stick to the lights.

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Fri Apr 30, 2004 1:46 am

Josh, would you mind taking some more pictures? The outside edge where the cornerlights would be is what I'd be interested in.

Post by **Legacy777** » Fri Apr 30, 2004 4:05 pm

yeah I may try to start planning out things this weekend....so I'll take some more pics and stuff

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Sat May 01, 2004 12:30 am

cool tahnks

Post by **Legacy777** » Sat May 01, 2004 12:42 am

93Leg-c · Post by **93Leg-c** » Sat May 01, 2004 8:02 am

Hmmm, I typed out a response to the pics but it disappeared when I hit "submit." I guess I wasn't logged in. So, I'll reconstruct my comments.

It's possible that your film is not genuine 3M film but just the adhesive and backing is genuine 3M. 3M film is being made now with "3M' printed al over the film itself (to notify the purchaser that it is genuine 3M). Those 3M imprints then can be removed with rubbing alcohol.

It's good to see the 4 year warranty in writing. Yet, keep in mind that the warranty for window film installed on car windows is different for the film youi'll be installing on your headlights. When window film goes bad, the warranty covers both the labor and materials, whereas for the headlight film, only the material is covered according to the warranty. Also, the warranty against yellowing is covered if the yellowing is caused from "discernibe defects in manufacturing." If there are no "discernble defects" and the film yellows, will the company give a song and a dance and say that yellowing of that sort if normal?

Notice that the warranty is voided if bulbs other than factory-authorized wattage bulbs are used. Higher wattage bulbs contribute to thermal fracture by the added heat and also cause the film to yellow more quickly.

The film that you have is thick! Did you say it is 40 mil thick? I was comparing its thickness with that of the formica on your counter. So, you should never have your headlights break because of normal road debris hitting it. The way the warranty is worded, I don't think anyone will ever win a claim against the company on the grounds that normal road debris broke the headlight. A 14 mil thick film (not 40 mil like yours may be) installed on a car door is so strong that you can take a baseball bat and pound on the window with all your might and the bat will just bounce off the glass with no damage to the glass (I know because I tried it -- quite amazing!) If you ever wanted a James Bond car, well, you've got the lights that will be impervious to almost anything except a direct hit by a rocket.

No, but seriously, under certain conditions, the 14 mil film on car windows have been known to stop bullets from penetrating through the glass -- and the bullets stopped were from a 12 ga shotgun, 30 caliber, 45 magnum, etc.

With the thickness of your film, you wlill need to keep it warm to keep the film pliable and "absorbing" into itself when you squeegie it on contoured surfaces. I don't know if the heat will cause to lay down easily but without the heat it may not be possible to lay it down on curved surfaces. Using a hair dryer is safer to use than a heat gun; however, the heat of the heat gun may be needed to keep the film pliable.

And firm pressure will be needed to remove the water/alcohol solution from under the film. If a bubble with the solution develops under the film during installation, it will be important to squeegie it out within 5 minutes; or you'll be reminded of the bubble everytime you look at your lights thereafter.

The film can be trimmed to fit in two basic ways: 1) trim the film just inside the outer edge of the headlights, or 2) trim the film to wrap the front edges of the headlight. With the thickness of your film, if you decide to wrap the film, it will probably increase your patience level. After squeegieing (sp?) the film on, score the film with a sharp kinfe. Do not cut through the film as the headlights will be scratched. Just feel the knife cutting into the film. Then, grab hold of the excess film and tear away gently; the film will separate where the film was scored by the knife. At least it works that way with the ClearShield film.

Hope some of the above will help you to install your headlight protection film. Happy installing!

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Sat May 01, 2004 5:14 pm

Regular safety glass is actually more effective than most people think at stopping bullets. I wonder if simple extra laminate is used for lower armoring classes like B1 or B2? Higher classes use thick polycarbonate. Are you sure they stopped a .44 MAG (I assume .45 was a typo)? The charge for those rounds are huge and I've seen what it'll do to a 1" polycarb block - doesn't go through, but distorts the hell out of it and blisters the other side. Maybe it was fired from an angle? .44 Mag grade is I think B4 and up grade armor plating (which also involves the bodywork of course).

Steve

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Sat May 01, 2004 5:26 pm

I'm confused, it's 40mm thick? Isn't that huge?

legacycentral bbs

A forum for 89-94 BC-BF(BJ) Legacy Owners and Fans

Headlight Project