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Minoru,

I am in Toronto - East end - we can meet up.

Andrew

minoru wrote:Thx for the pic....I sow them allready and they helped me a bit. But not enough to find the "hidden" conectors:)

Does anybody has a real manual of this car? Service book? So I can see the wire diagram?

Although I already bought one...which sucks, I am willing to buy another one. A good one this time.

Do you think pics of what I see underneath there would help?

I BROKE THE COOOOOOODE!!!

THX vrg3....with the thing you gave me I manage to read the codes.
22,24,31 so Knock sensor, air control valve and throttle sensor.

probably all of them got activated when out of nowhere I slamed the accelerator pedal to the floor and rev it in first 3 gears all the way up to 6000 rpm.

I tried erasing the codes as they say in the Haynes book....30 sec the - from battery off...but didn't work. I'll do it as you say guys. After that...i hope no new codes will appear.

Can anyone explain those codes a little? pls


Thanks a lot for all the help.
The back wiper...how manny of you have it stucked?


I am in Brampton, totech andrew...we could meet some time. Probably some weekend soon.

Never had any wiper problems, although my rear washer won't spray.

Steve

minoru, you should clear those codes and see which ones come back before trying to find the trouble.

Pushing the engine hard shouldn't cause any problems. That's what they're built for.

You should be able to clear the codes by disconnecting the battery and holding the brake pedal for 30 seconds.

yes....clear codes....drive car....see what returns.

for future reference......check out my thread for fsm info and other goodies
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=14485

Thx for the documentation....I just dld it yesterday

fixed the back wiper....though the washer was broken in half...glued that too....I finnaly put some registrarion plates on the car:) not only the temporary premit

I just noticed that the tps is "brand new" from a scrap, so....probably I'll just have to change that. Any idea how much is it? And where can I get it cheaper than from the dealer? I don't want to know how much the tps is at them if a coolant tank is 120 cad$

thx again for helping me guys


ps....any of you got carbon fiber body work??? just asking

What do you mean "brand new from a scrap?"

Was the sensor just replaced? The calibration procedure for the TPS (more specifically, for the idle switch) is a little tricky, so if it was replaced it might need to be calibrated.

This thread might be useful:

http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=1298

Looking for a leak of coolant (i have a persistent smell of coolant in the car though I can't see anything.) I took of the plastic cap on top of the engine. And I noticed that the tps has some yellow marker writting on it. My father in law...being an old mechanic and employee of a scrap noticed that right away. So your probably right....I will try adjust it. But first... clear the codes.

I tried clearing the codes 3 times allready. First time...I just pulled of the ground wire from battery for around 10 minutes. It didn't work.
Second time, I tried pulling off the ground and step on the brake for 30 seconds as it was sugested, ignition on, etc...it didn't work.
Then I tried pulling off the ground wire for 45 min, then start the car WITHOUT touching the accelerator pedal, let it idle for 10-15 minutes until it reached normal operating temp, then turn off the ignition. Put it on ON read the codes...they are still there. NO ERASE.

On the right side of stearing column I have a black pair of connectors. BUT THEY HAVE TWO WIRES in them. Could thouse be the testing connectors? (I have a picture but no web space)

It started pissing me off. When the engine is cold...it starts perfectly. When is hot...it doesn't start unless I fully depres the accelerator pedal.
And the CEL is not stedy ON. It comes ON it stays...some times it goes OFF.

I know....I should erase the codes and read them again as soon as the CEL comes ON. But how can I erase them?

After trying to clear the codes, did you start the engine before reading the codes again? If you did, it's possible all the codes just came back.

A malfunctioning IAC valve could throw code 24 and could keep the engine from running when hot.

No, I didn't start the engine in neither of the cases...and the engines runs...perfect...only the starting is a litle harder when is hot.
The only thing that I can complain about my engine...ecxcept the CEL...is the mileage that I get. 15 l/km. Ohhh....and the fuel meter...it showed empty (no light though) and when I filled it up...it took only 37 l

Thanks a lot to everyone who halped me. It really worked.

I managed to find the freaking black conectors...they were right by the radio console on top of all the wires.
I had to adjust the TPS a litle bit...and now the 24 and 31 are gone. But the 22-knock sensor keeps coming back...and without rev the engine at all. So probably I'll have to change that.

I still have 2 questions. The oxygen sensor....are they 2???
And...the one by the turbine...I measured the 1-2 pins...and is opened insted of 30 ohms as they said in the Haynes manual. Shoud I replace the oxygen sensor even though there is no code for it?

In Haynes manual the section for calibrating TPS has the voltages inversed. For fully opened and closed throttle.

Any ways...it's grate to have ppl helping you.
Thx again.

Dont use the voltage method for adjusting the TPS. Just measure resistance and find the idle switch. Its ALOT easier.

I didn't, I checked the continuity with the ohmmeter...and adjusted...and after that I just checked the voltage...just for fun:)

Glad you found the black connectors, minoru.

There is only one oxygen sensor, mounted at the top of the downpipe right by the turbine.

A completely failed oxygen sensor often won't throw a code on our cars. A D-Check procedure should force it though. If your sensor is indeed bad you should probably replace it. Have you tried measuring its voltage once the car is warmed up and idling?

When calibrating the TPS you don't really need to worry about the voltages or resistances... if the sensor isn't broken, the only thing to calibrate is the idle switch which is just continuity. I guess you already figured that all out though.

It's good to replace the knock sensor. If you do a search you'll find some info on the technical service bulletin and the fact that the knock sensor has been redesigned.

Its also good to replace the oxygen sensor even if its still working. They get slow with age.

Another question about using green conectors. Is it normal to make some strange noises and start the fan as soon as you conect them and turn the key to ON???
Even after I drove the car end erased the codes and the CEL started flashing , I stoped the engine...and I could hear that relay or what ever....I had somebody to localize it. If it metters I'll check again couse I forgot what was making that crrrrrrrrrrrr....noise:)
But...is it normal to do that????It does 3 things...: starts the fan
a relay which sound exactly like hazards...keeps going on and of (the sound is identical to hazards, but there is no light (dash arrows, nor corner markers))
the crrrrrrrr sound from some valve or ...I forgot what was it...by the air cleener chamber on the passanger side.

yes it's normal for you to hear a clicking noise and the fans to run when you use the green connectors.

Yes, it's intentional. When in test mode the ECU cycles all the relays and solenoids on and off to help you check them. And since the ECU has self-shutoff control, it continues for a few seconds even after you shut the engine off.

I still get the knock sensor code....and is 100 $ to buy it:( I couldn't find it anywhere else than dealers.
Can you guys help me with some aftermarket links, phone #, or smth?
Couse the dealer is verry expensive man...the O2 sensor is 250 $ (canadians)
Thx a lot for the answears and help.

Buy it from one of the online dealers, 40$ US

Part 22060AA031

I'm getting an intermittent CEL and OBD for code 35 Purge Solenoid. But I pulled it and tested it and resistance across it is about 70 ohms, but when I initially checked it there was no resistance. The leads to it show 12V with the ignition on.

I pulled a solenoid from a donor car but it showed no resistance across the terminals so presumably is shot.

1. Is it possible that my original solenoid fails intermittently?

2. The dealer in Brooklyn quoted me $97. Right. Where should I really get it then?

ACP

Yes, it's possible for it to fail intermittently.

But are you sure you measured no resistance? Or do you mean no conductivity?

The valve is part number 14774AA351. The suggested list price is around $80. Online dealers like http://www.subaruwrxparts.com, http://www.subaruparts.com, http://www.allsubaru.com, http://www.1stsubaruparts.com, etc. should be able to give you a decent discount from list (as opposed to a markup over list).

vrg3 wrote:Yes, it's possible for it to fail intermittently.

But are you sure you measured no resistance? Or do you mean no conductivity?

AH - of course you're right. I meant that when I first tested it there was infinite resistance! Same for the donor car's solenoid. Guess new is the smartest option. I hate when that happens.

Thanks for the parts contacts - that's much more reasonable!

ACP

Hey guys
I'm having somewhat the same problem, when i start the car there is no "check engine" light on then after driving for a few minutes the light comes on and the acceleration is bad, could it be the canister purge solenoid valve? where is it located? or can it be the oxygen sensor? that i know where. my car is a 94 SS sedan Auto, help i need to fix it it's kinda anoying when i need the acceleration.

regards

Neo