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aspect wrote:I guess leaving it in gear would prevent someone driving into the back of the car, thus breaking the parking brake cable, and pushing it down the street with their vehicle into something.

Right, that's the concern. Pushing it into something or someone.

Honestly, I think saying I'm causing unnecessary risk is like saying people who don't use a garage and park their car on the street are endangering motorists by risking a collision.

Some people can't afford garages, so the increased risk of parking on the street isn't an unnecessary one. The least you can do when parking on the street is to do what you can to make sure the car stays put.

It's one of the reasons that many states have laws against leaving cars running unattended on public land. Back when I had my automatic Legacy Turbo I did occasionally get hassled by cops because of its turbo timer.

In *my* owners manual, it clearly states to let the car cool by idling for a minute or so after driving on the highway. If after-boost cooling wasn't at all neccesary, why would subaru make such a statement?

Subaru actually kind of changed their mind on that though... Subaru's position with the '02-up turbos is that this type of cooldown is not necessary, because of the cooling system I described earlier in this thread. That cooling functionality is identical in our cars and in the WRX.

Pre-Legacy Subaru turbos didn't have that system.

I park in a gravel parking lot at school (or in front of a curb by the dorms) and in my parking spot at home (in my driveway in front of my house).

I think the only time my car would be in danger of hitting someone would be out in public at the grocery store or something. I don't really drive so hard as to think I'd need a turbo timer. Just the cruise back from the back roads would be good. The only time I'd be in a rush is if I was driving somewhere with someone or following someone to go somewhere. It's those times when a Turbo Timer would be nice to have. I don't think I'd trust my car to sit turned on and out of gear in a public place.

You have to watch you're not pushed on purpose by someone, either. When I used to commute into Boston it was impossible to find parking that wasn't $20 so I used to push assholes that took up two spaces with their VWs and such. I love the old metal bumpers. Another time someone parallel parked right up to my rear bumper and also blocked a crosswalk. I had no room to get out so I pushed the little Geo Metro back so that I had space. A guy and a woman across the street started cheering me on, so I pushed the car into the empty side street and left him there.

Steve

BAC5.2: Why wait for seal replacement when going to synthetics? It doesnt change the structer of the seal material.

Jus buy the damn thing. If you cant wait in your car to cool it down, get it.

Lots of people prolly park without the E brake on/in gear anyway. I feel that the great majority of people driving, have no conception of how much a car weighs, or how to use it proporly, Jus the fact that your on this forum prolly means you pay a lot more attention in the first place.

Getting your car hit on the street with the E-brake on wont snap your cables, but will prolly fuck up your car in general. duh.

If all of you are so concerned about everyones saftey on the road, I cant help but find the irony, considering that a lot of the threads here are about how to make our cars faster. Ive seen no thread on how to make sure your Ebrake is working correctly.

The one from Rallitek plugs direcly in, with no splicing of the wires.

The reason its illegal in most states to leave your car running, is because its an "attractive nuisance" a lot of cars are stolen that way, beleive it or not. I bet if your doors were locked, and you explained to the officer what it was doing, it would be no problem.

this reply is just for arguments sake.
werd

rallitektech wrote:Lots of people prolly park without the E brake on/in gear anyway.

But that don't make it right, right?

Jus the fact that your on this forum prolly means you pay a lot more attention in the first place.

I agree with that.

If all of you are so concerned about everyones saftey on the road, I cant help but find the irony, considering that a lot of the threads here are about how to make our cars faster. Ive seen no thread on how to make sure your Ebrake is working correctly.

I for one haven't had any troubles with my handbrake yet; I had to adjust the cable once when I got the car twenty thousand miles ago and it's been working well since.

I think it's important to back up engine mods with chassis mods. Before I did any power upgrades I upgraded my brakes, for example. I've recommended the same to many other people.

I bet if your doors were locked, and you explained to the officer what it was doing, it would be no problem.

Usually after explaining it they were okay with it but a couple times the officer insisted it was safety hazard even though he couldn't explain why, and once the officer just said it was flat-out illegal and he'd ticket me if I left the car.

Cops are there to enforce the law (whether they understand it or not). If the law states that it's illegal to leave your car running unattended, then they are being nice but not giving you a ticket.

We had a spell of arctic air (-50) for a few weeks and people were stealing unattended cars left and right. Cops were on TV blaming the auto-starters. Apparently some people were stealing the cars just to get down the street without freezing.

Steve

rallitektech wrote:Jus buy the damn thing. If you cant wait in your car to cool it down, get it.

Lots of people prolly park without the E brake on/in gear anyway. I feel that the great majority of people driving, have no conception of how much a car weighs, or how to use it proporly, Jus the fact that your on this forum prolly means you pay a lot more attention in the first place.

Getting your car hit on the street with the E-brake on wont snap your cables, but will prolly fuck up your car in general. duh.

If all of you are so concerned about everyones saftey on the road, I cant help but find the irony, considering that a lot of the threads here are about how to make our cars faster. Ive seen no thread on how to make sure your Ebrake is working correctly.

The one from Rallitek plugs direcly in, with no splicing of the wires.

The reason its illegal in most states to leave your car running, is because its an "attractive nuisance" a lot of cars are stolen that way, beleive it or not. I bet if your doors were locked, and you explained to the officer what it was doing, it would be no problem.

this reply is just for arguments sake.
werd

werd^2

ciper wrote:BAC5.2: Why wait for seal replacement when going to synthetics? It doesnt change the structer of the seal material.

A dino oil tends to break down and turn to varnish when it gets too hot. It also has less detergents than synthetics. This means that areas which get little oil flow, such as areas around seals, the oil tends to sit and heat up, turning to varnish. This varnish never gets removed because of the lack of detergents. Because this varnish sits against the seal, the seal never gets any fresh oil... it tends to dry up a bit. This doesn't matter at this time because ther is a layer of varnish buildup to prevent any leaks. Now... you go and put some synthetic oil in the crankcase. Synthetics have a better additive package which includes more detergents. These extra detergents work on washing away the varnish of the old dino oil. Once the varnish is gone, you have an oil leak at that seal because it is all dried up.

Some people think this is true. Some people don't buy it. I have seen lots of horror stories, enough to make me weary of having an engine with 95k under someone elses belt. I'll get the seals changed so I feel safe using synthetic rather than risking an oil leak and potential problem in the future.

bac - I've never heard that before, but it makes sense to me. All my cars I've converted to synthetic started leaking within 10-20k. I'm thinking of going back to dino as a quart of Mobil 1 a week or so is getting expensive! Hopefully dino oil varnish could reseal the rear main until I can get the turbo engine in. If it doesn't at least its a hell of a lot cheaper.

Steve

BAC5.2: So it has nothing to do with the oil, it depends on the maintanance prior to the switch.

I switched one of my legacy at 145k that had a terrible previous life, and it only leaked a little. (and still doesn because I dont care)

Ciper - Exactly. Synthetic oil is GREAT for cars. It's the fact that I don't know the life of the car before me, so I can only assume the worst. And since it spent its life in the north east, I have a feeling that cracked and dry seals are almost inevitable. Sorry if I didn't make it entirely clear .

Steve - Dino oil takes a while to varnish over, but I doubt it would hurt anything just switching over. And your right, it'll be cheaper even if it still leaks. That dollar store junk is good enough if you don't care much about the engine.

LOL, is jumping topics ever a notice in this post.

So the consensus is yes on autos. for reasons of saftey, and no on 5spds if you park in uneven places where traffic can be heavy or where safety is an issue.

Does anyone know if they would interfere with an automatic car starter at all?

I'm starting to think this would be a good purchase

Just to get back to the topic, I bought the GReddy timer off ebay for cheap. It does everything I need it to do and once i got the wires right it worked fine and has ever since.

I just aquired a Blitz DC2 and it looks fairly easy to install. One wire goes into the ignition. I haven't taken it apart yet, but i would assume that there are several wires going to where the key is imput. What color shall I splice into. Also, it has a blue wire for "accessory". I have no clue what that goes to. I would assume a radio or something? But why?