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I used Plasti-poxy and haven't had any problems in the few months I've been using it.

I decided to use JB Weld because I had all metal fittings.

If this doesn't work, I may go get some new plastic fittings and try those out.



Just what exactly is the large hose?

The feed for the IAC valve.

Everything seems to be in order.

I did quite a bit of driving around today, and nothing ill has happened.

I am going to see about checking everything out once it stops raining around here.

I should also probably reconnect the smallest hose...... I left it off because it's a pain in the butt to put on/take off and I wanted to make sure the fittings weren't going to break off before I put it on.

Just a warning - not EVERY Target has those "100% spillproof" mugs. I went to the one by the Fashion Square Mall around here and it had some inappropriately-sized Nascar mug and some other silver one that looked like it might work. Then I went to another Target in Lake Mary and they had the "100% spillproof" one that was spoke of earlier in the thread, in all different colors. I saw that shelf and I swear I heard a chorus

Since I went to Home Depot looking for the fittings, I got two of them in brass and one of them in nylon. I hate Home Depot... if I can't get these fittings to stay properly I'll go find an Ace Hardware and do it right. Whats that saying? "Never enough time to do it right... always time to do it twice."

Thanks Home Depot...

When you put the largest one on, I recommend leaning it back a bit.

I did a test fit before I put them on and marked where the various fittings should be before I drilled the holes. you will probably have to drill the largest hole you have a drill bit for and dremel it out some more for the largest fitting.

The little aluminum oxide sanding drum works well on the stainless. If you sand down the brass fittings any, use a coarse sanding drum (instead of the AlO drum). That'll take care of those suckers in no time.

Thanks, IronMonkey... more good tips for this mod. I have the parts sitting in my car but they're in the backseat and they're not together yet. Perhaps tomorrow I will have a chance to work at it. I hate that resonator box, it just looks out of place in that intake path. A black mug would look so much better there, and make more sense. Aside from the fact that, of course, it was meant to hold coffee - not air. My friend still laughs about the fact that I'm going to shove a coffee mug into my engine compartment.

Tell him the car could use the caffeine.

Steve

What do you mean by "leaning it back a bit?"

V, I think he's talking about physically leaning the larger fitting at an angle when inserted into the cup, not exactly perpendicular to the tangent. If this is not what he means, I am again totally lost

I'd recomend putting it so it's at the same angle that the stock peice is at.

...yeah that would probably be best. Having not examined the situation closely yet, I dont know if I'm correct or not here but that might be why he's recommending the angle. I've got to get in there and get this mod started.

I see... It seems sensible to make the IAC hose fitting angle a little towards the front of the car; the stock resonator places that fitting further towards the front of the car than the mug would.

So if the fitting were perpendicular to the cup, the hose would be pushing the fitting toward the front.

I should have explained myself better.

I'll get a pic of mine up soon.

Yes, a picture is worth a thousand words. And who wants to type a thousand words when we have digital cameras.

Could I have some pictures??

There's mine, pre-paint. It's now flat black. In light of my current engine idle problems, I've reverted back to stock for a while.

Ok.

Here is the pic of mine.

You will notice that my (all brass) largest fitting is a bit shorter than BAC's. This is why I had to lean it back.



I am planning on painting it flat black as well.

Could someone brake this stuff down in NEWB terms??

If you are looking for instructions on how to make on, try here:

http://quickdraw.dynu.com/intake/ That ... in a mug.

Yeah, my comp is off right now, but it's normally up during the day.

Both the glossy black and silver look great in our engine bays... why paint them flat black? I could see painting it if you got a red mug or something... To each their own.

Anyway good looking installs guys. How did the coffee mug cause an idle problem? Was it hard to seal the fittings?

wasn't his mug originally red?

free5ty1e wrote:Both the glossy black and silver look great in our engine bays... why paint them flat black? I could see painting it if you got a red mug or something... To each their own.

Anyway good looking installs guys. How did the coffee mug cause an idle problem? Was it hard to seal the fittings?

If I hadn't scratched it up so much when I was putting the fittings on, I would probably leave it au natural. As it is, the paint will also cover up the spots where the JB Weld is on the surface. I learned earlier that sanding it all down can have its drawbacks.....

My mug didn't cause any idle problems. I think BAC may be having problems from something else.

Do you mean when I was making the cup? If so, the fittings weren't that hard to seal at all. The one that gave me a problem was the largest one, and that was because I made the hole a bit too large. After the first two times, I leaned it back and peened the hole smaller, and it held much better. The other twohad threaded bases, so I just drilled the appropriate sized hole and threaded them in.

My idle was caused by something else, but I wanted to revert to stock to remove any variables.

I painted it flat black hoping it would have come out better than it did. A coat of paint is almost required if you want it to look good.

My mug was gloss black originally, but it was scratched to hell from drilling and such. The flat black I used was for exhaust manifolds, but it scratches easier than the original finish does, so it looks like I'll need another coat of better paint. Gloss black this time.