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93Leg-c wrote:Thanks for the suggestion, vrg3. However, I do have a question. The Haynes manual says the torque specs is supposed to be 120 to 192 INCH pounds. Doesn't that translate to 10 - 16 foot pounds? That seems mighty loose to me. Right now they are torqued to 40 foot pounds. Would you suggest I torque it down tighter? (The left strut is also torqued to 40 ft lbs. and that side isn't clunking.)

You have to be careful with the strut mount bolts on top, it's really easy to snap them. It wouldn't be a bad idea to put just a touch of loctite on the threads, just a thought.

Good comparisons, THAWA. I always like to follow torque specs, actually any kind of specs by the manufacturers or engineers. Sometimes I wonder though, like on another thread about the printed crank bolt torque spec that seems to be in error. Does anyone know for sure if the center nut on the strut is 52 ft lbs max? If 52 is the max, I'd better go back and torque the nut to specs.

Just the other day I found out that when I tighten the lug nuts on my wheels by hand I am far over the torque specs. I guess what is firmly tight to me is over-tight by specs.

kidatari, thanks for the warning! I don't need snapped bolts, much less snapped anything! Seems like you might have had some firsthand experience with those bolts?

Yeah, you guys are definitely right that torque specs are important and you should pay attention to them.

To complicate the matter with the strut nut, it's a locknut that's only meant to be used once and then discarded.

The bearing is built into the strut mount. When the bearings went bad in my friend's car, it was really obvious; when that corner of the car was in the air, you could push upward on the wheel and see the vertical play in the bearing.

I guess any play in the bearing would cause the center nut to move relative to the three smaller nuts, so that would be one way to check for it -- have a buddy shake the wheel side to side, up and down, and in and out (make sure the car's securely on jackstands of course!) and see if you can detect any relative movement from above.

Today before heading out I loosened the 3 nuts then torqued them to 12 ft lbs. There is more clattering in the suspension when driving now. So, if I'm figuring out this correctly, the top strut mount and/or bearing needs to be replaced.

I tried to loosen the center nut but I could hear the strut turning and the springs making springing noises so I decided to stop trying. Probably a good thing, now that I know I'll need a new nut.
And, thanks for the clarification on what I can do to check the bearing, vrg3 -- your observations are very helpful.

In fact, all you guys have been really great in helping me out. Many thanks to all of you!

Other threads were discussing the superiority of the WRX top mount. Is that because it has a heavier duty bearing or because the mount has less "give" or both? Would you recommend I replace mine with the WRX top mounts? Is so, where can I get two at a resonable price?

I wouldnt recommend that as wrx top mounts wont fit

Thanks, THAWA!

So, is the top mount just a dealer item or is there a certain aftermarket brand that's recommended?

The top mount or whatever it is that clunking is getting worse quickly. Today there was louder clunking, clattering, and squeaking/groaning more often and in more varied conditions.

Let's say the top mount / bearing in it is the culprit. What's the worse case scenario that could happen if it happens to fail completely before I replace it?

You should be able to still get topmounts form the dealer, but if it was me I'd go with the sti hardened top mounts. Make sure if you do though that you get the mounts for the gc chassis instead of the gd chassis (as they wont fit, which is why the wrx ones dont fit either, what with the wrx being on the gd chassis)

Thanks again, THAWA! I was getting confused with the WRX and STi mounts. I appreciate the clarification, and also that I need to get the mounts for the gc chassis and not the gd. Getting the right parts surely saves a lot of frustration when the car is apart and the dealer is 45 minute drive away.

not a prob, but I'm not sure if the dealer sells sti mounts. You might have to order those online somewhere, they should definately have stock mounts though. Although, if you're just getting stock mounts you might as well get mounts for your car, probably be cheaper. I dunno, I'd call the dealer before heading out there

So, the STi top mounts is found on the gd chassis, which is the WRX platform and also on the gc chassis, which is what platform? Is that the Legacy platform or a different WRX model year platfrom? (I wanted to know in case I'm asked that question -- I figure I should at least know what I'm talking about when I'm attempting to order a part.)

The gd/gg chassis is the 02-present impreza, which i believe is nothing more than a shortened bd/bg chassic (95-99 legacy). The gc/gf/gm chassis is the 93-01 impreza chassis, which is simply a shortened bc/bf chassis 90-94 legacy.

Much appreciated, THAWA. Thanks.

anytime

I'm reading this post and realizing this is the exact thing that is happening to me right now. Exact same problems..Blam Blam...
It's driving me Nucking Futs.
I'll be interested to hear if the strut mounts do the trick.
Good luck

Frazer

Are gd chassis struts compatible with the old style mounts?

Steve

I visited the Suby dealer today. The parts manager said the only STi top mounts they sell is for the 2004 model. He had no idea what the gc or gd chassis was.

Any suggestions as to where I can get the gc chassis STi top mounts?

snowjob, the blam, blam, blam occured when I stepped on the brakes. But it stopped on my car when I replaced the brake rotor.

But I still have clunking problems and that seems to be the top mount going bad.

I haven't been able to post for a while because I couldn't get connected up the legacy central bbs for about a week now. Was just able to get in tonight.

Sounds like the parts guy needs to do some research. You can try many of the online dealers for the mounts, teagues auto, rallispec, rallitek, s-squared, mpj motorsports, oakos auto, z1-auto, etc. Might take a few days but at least you'll get them.

Now that we're down with the technical terms, I replaced the rotors and your right, the blam went, now I think I need a damn good balance. Thanks for the insight everyone...

THAWA, thanks for all of those referrals. I didn't know there were so many I could go to. I really appreciate your assistance!

snowjob, glad to know that the "blamming" is gone! The guys/gals on this forum are great, aren't they?

no prob. I could've actually linked to them but meh, a google will help ya with aht. Or search in the nasioc vendor threads, or i-club, or rs25 or any of that stuff.