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Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:52 pm
by turboleg
I got lost after the first three posts or so...I'm not the most excitable reader.
Great post doug!
I would like to add that when doing the AC (fully charged), as someone already said you can swing it off to the side. I think there is a mounting bracket for one of the hoses that can be removed. Gives you a few more inches of twist. Then she'll sit where you want it.
Another item, with my dad steadying the engine I was able to get the engine out of the bay without removing the radiator. Just have a big heavy guy that can hold the block up for you. Not that my dads fat or anything....
My radiator hoses were toast so I just lopped em off. Made it quick and simple.
But seriously you have to unplug the harness?
Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 1:46 am
by 0perose
0perose wrote:ok guys you'll probably kill me for this one...
what to do if we already took the torque converter off with the engine?
edit:
on the donor and swap car
the answer is play with the torque converter forever. you'll feel it when you've got it.
(jon drove it last night woooohooo!)
Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 4:56 am
by yazmo
anyone know where i can find those $115 for gasket kit and $50 for ring set
Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 2:06 am
by jp233
the only place you'll find prices that cheap is on ebay. a bunch of those Subaru engine items for sale on ebay appear to be the same seller with a few different usernames.
about front speaker deep
Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 4:03 am
by yazmo
mine are blow and i wnder if these speaker would fit
or i need some spacer nobody know how deep the stock speaker are nobody wrote it.
JBL - GT5-652
Size 165mm
Nominal Impedance 4 Ohms
Power Handling, Peak 135W
Power Handling, RMS 45W
Sensitivity (2.83V/1m) 93dB
Frequency Response 55Hz – 20kHz
Mounting Depth 56mm
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 6:30 pm
by ThatZkid
What is the special startup mode you were talking about? How do you activate it?
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:14 pm
by wtdash
ThatZkid wrote:What is the special startup mode you were talking about? How do you activate it?
It's a procedure when starting a rebuilt engine or doing a head gasket.
Per DV's original post:
24- When you have replace the rings and/or pistons and/or heads, you need special start up mode to be in action.
1- remove the little areas above the fuel pump in back. Unhook those wire clips. This turns the fuel pump off.
2- Unhook the coil pack clip
3- Turn over the engine a few times to get oil back into the engine.
4- You DID add oil didn’t you?
5- Add the oil!
6- Repeat.
7- Hook all the clips back up. Start engine. Idle rev, Idle, rev. But not too long. Listen carefully. If you rebuilt or had the heads rebuilt, the engine is going to be noisier than hell. The tappets are starved of oil and it will take up to 5ish miles until they fill back up and start to be quiet.
8- Go to a remote area if possible and accelerate up to 50 and then let off the gas IN GEAR down to 30. Repeat for 5-10 times. This supposedly sets the rings.
Summary: This prevents a 'dry' start after a rebuild, and provides an initial 'break-in'.
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:24 pm
by kimokalihi
4- You DID add oil didn’t you?
5- Add the oil!
LOL
Re: Engine Pull and rebuild tips.
Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:08 pm
by RckyMtnLegacy
Also if this has not been added to any list do not forget the drive plate and make sure your mounts are on correct just ran not this an hour ago
Re: Engine Pull and rebuild tips.
Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:32 am
by njdriver04
Re: Engine Pull and rebuild tips.
Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 3:04 am
by Sublimejoe
Excellent info! Hopefully mine goes smoothly
Re: Engine Pull and rebuild tips.
Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 6:18 pm
by Sublimejoe
Also, care to share where you picked up the parts needed for rebuild? I see a few things on eBay, is that the best route to go?
Re:
Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 10:26 pm
by WRXish
0perose wrote:0perose wrote:ok guys you'll probably kill me for this one...
what to do if we already took the torque converter off with the engine?
edit:
on the donor and swap car
the answer is play with the torque converter forever. you'll feel it when you've got it.
(jon drove it last night woooohooo!)
I dont know about the rest of you, I'm making popcorn for this one lol
Re:
Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 10:34 pm
by WRXish
0perose wrote:0perose wrote:ok guys you'll probably kill me for this one...
what to do if we already took the torque converter off with the engine?
edit:
on the donor and swap car
the answer is play with the torque converter forever. you'll feel it when you've got it.
(jon drove it last night woooohooo!)
I dont know about the rest of you, I'm making popcorn for this one lol
wtdash wrote:ThatZkid wrote:What is the special startup mode you were talking about? How do you activate it?
It's a procedure when starting a rebuilt engine or doing a head gasket.
Per DV's original post:
24- When you have replace the rings and/or pistons and/or heads, you need special start up mode to be in action.
1- remove the little areas above the fuel pump in back. Unhook those wire clips. This turns the fuel pump off.
2- Unhook the coil pack clip
3- Turn over the engine a few times to get oil back into the engine.
4- You DID add oil didn’t you?
5- Add the oil!
6- Repeat.
7- Hook all the clips back up. Start engine. Idle rev, Idle, rev. But not too long. Listen carefully. If you rebuilt or had the heads rebuilt, the engine is going to be noisier than hell. The tappets are starved of oil and it will take up to 5ish miles until they fill back up and start to be quiet.
8- Go to a remote area if possible and accelerate up to 50 and then let off the gas IN GEAR down to 30. Repeat for 5-10 times. This supposedly sets the rings.
Summary: This prevents a 'dry' start after a rebuild, and provides an initial 'break-in'.
For the best break in I have ever heard of, try this process. What the guy says makes good sense.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I have used this basic process on every engine I have had built with good results. I am sure I will get flamed for this one...
